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-too late to help now-
Qubee fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jun 8, 2017 |
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Jun 7, 2017 19:50
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Hello again! 2014 Ford Focus, gonna be storing it for 3 months. Ford, in their infinite wisdom and with the aid of their toilet engineers designed the battery so that you have to essentially take it out to disconnect the negative terminal. I'm fine with boosting the battery later on, I don't give a poo poo if it goes flat. Will it affect any of the electronics negatively however? Modern cars are bullshit so I'm kinda paranoid. Please don't suggest that I get a battery trickler.
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Jun 7, 2017 20:49
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rear end posted:Hello again! 2014 Ford Focus, gonna be storing it for 3 months. Ford, in their infinite wisdom and with the aid of their toilet engineers designed the battery so that you have to essentially take it out to disconnect the negative terminal. I'd be more worried about the battery than the electronics if I were you. You'll have your constant drains like clocks and any constant "listeners" like anything with a fob like remote start and locks. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jun 8, 2017 |
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Jun 7, 2017 22:05
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Storing it indoors or out?
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Jun 7, 2017 22:08
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e: nvm
Platystemon fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Jun 8, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 00:06
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rear end posted:Hello again! 2014 Ford Focus, gonna be storing it for 3 months. Ford, in their infinite wisdom and with the aid of their toilet engineers designed the battery so that you have to essentially take it out to disconnect the negative terminal. If you know how to use the ratchet to remove the battery cables, then you are already very close. Remove front battery cover. Remove battery strap and rear battery cover. Slide battery forward. Remove negative terminal and stash it rearwards. Remove positive terminal and stash it forwards. Done. Battery stays in car and you only used one tool. (Not counting a long screwdriver to reach annoying cover tabs.) But honestly, I've stored post-2000 cars for whole winters with batteries connected and they still started in the spring. 3 months isn't a big deal, and if you are worried, just keep a set of jumper cables and a friend+car handy when you unstore it.
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Jun 8, 2017 02:10
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2000 Acura TL. Bought the car a couple months ago for my nephew with the check engine light on. Codes originally came out as misfire cylinder 1, misfire cylinder 4, multiple misfires detected, and oxygen sensor bank 1 malfunction (the seller told me it needed an oxygen sensor). Replaced both O2 sensors (since one didn't cut it). Tested the coils on cylinders 1 and 4 and inspected the spark plugs (which were just replaced it looks like and are clean as all hell). Did the old "pull the harness from each coil one by one and see if the engine sputters" trick and the coils came out as working, but weak, proven by a test of a multimeter. Replaced both coils and reset the computer and erased the codes. The car was running like a champ since then until a few days ago when the check engine light came back on again. It's running fine, but I read the codes again, and it's the same three cylinder misfire codes (cylinders 1 & 4 + multiple misfires detected or P0301, P0304, and P0300). I get that P0300 just means 1 and 4 have a misfire and is probably a redundant code, but somebody told me the serpentine belt could be the culprit (  ). I get that it's on the same side as cylinders 1 and 4, but seriously? Is this even a thing that could happen?I also read it could be dirty EGR ports which should be routine maintenance on Honda engines, Other possibility: dirty MAF sensor. It's odd that it only affects two cylinders, but as far as i can tell, the injectors are also working as intended. Like I said, the car is running fine, but what can the culprit be so I can nip this in the bud once and for all?
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Jun 8, 2017 03:43
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2014 Hyundai Accent GLS - 1.6L DI DOHC 4cyl - 33k miles Disclaimer: I'm not very savvy when it comes to cars and their components. Absolutely willing to learn but I do lack general knowledge. I've noticed a strange noise that seems to come from the front left wheel area. Not noticeable on the rear or right side and doesn't seem to stem from the engine compartment. The noise sounds something like a mix of a squeal and rattling. The noise isn't noticeable/doesn't happen at low speeds (under 20mph) and seems to be more pronounced during left turns (or when sharply turning the steering wheel to the left) and when there's excessive vibration. Given that I live in California, excessive vibration is common due to lovely roads. There's no noticeable pull when driving or braking and I haven't noticed any decrease in handling. Tested speeds up to around 55mph and regular braking (as in not overly aggressive or enough to engage ABS, think regular city driving). I've jacked the car and removed the wheel to inspect the brakes and both pads and rotor have plenty of material. The rotor is not rusty and I don't think it's displaying uneven wear or gouging. No idea on how the pads are wearing; I didn't remove the caliper assembly. At this point I'm starting to think it may be stemming from the steering components (rods, control arms?), possibly a bushing or joint. However, I don't really know what to look for. Am I correct in suspecting the steering components? If so, how do I go about inspecting it?
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Jun 8, 2017 19:11
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Sounds like a wheel bearing by the description of it getting better when you turn to one direction. Look up a YouTube video. Does it sound like that?
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Jun 8, 2017 19:23
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Sounds like a wheel bearing by the description of it getting better when you turn to one direction. Look up a YouTube video. Does it sound like that? If this video is indicative of usual bearing noise, then that's not what I'm experiencing. The noise is higher pitched and it isn't constant. I can try to record it later today when I get off work.
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Jun 8, 2017 19:57
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cigaw posted:2014 Hyundai Accent GLS - 1.6L DI DOHC 4cyl - 33k miles Can you post video? Does the pitch/volume of the sound change with speed? Does it only happen when moving, or would it happen when you rev the engine while in park?
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Jun 8, 2017 20:41
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`Nemesis posted:Can you post video? I'll shoot a video today after work; it'll hopefully help. I have not noticed any changes in pitch or volume based on speed. It doesn't seem to happen at all at low speed (<20mph). I'd say it only happens when moving. I'll try revving the engine in park to confirm. Thanks!
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Jun 8, 2017 21:04
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Nissan Murano 2007 My brakes were having an increasing amount of play to them over the last two years, so I just recently got my buddy to help me replace the brake pads and check the lines for air. Just replacing the pads seemed to solve the issue and now my brakes feels tighter than ever, too tight it seems. My onboard mileage calculator is showing that I went from 19mpg as of a month ago to 13mpg since we worked on the brakes. Also the car use to crawl forward on level ground with no foot on a pedal. It no longer does this. There is also a burning smell sometimes after I stop the car. Could the brakes be dragging? What are some common culprits to brake drag that we* could rule out? Is it safe to drive the car until we figure this out? Edit: Extra info I just remembered. When we bled the brakes the front left one bled much more slowly than the others, only pushing several inches of fluid with every pedal press. Also the pads were less worn out on this wheel. *By we I mean my buddy. I don't know poo poo about cars really. MOVIE MAJICK fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 01:09
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Cross posting from the mazda thread, anyone have any recommendations on new tires for my '14 mazda 3? The current tires are 215/45R18. I have separate wheels and tires for winter, so I'd like a good 3 season tire, with a focus on less road noise and more comfort.
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Jun 9, 2017 01:57
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I have a '99 Subaru Impreza with the 2.2. Late April I had an emergency radiator replacement. The engine got hot but didn't break down or have the temperature light come on. Starting a couple days ago I have intermittently been getting a gurgling noise when parking, and today noticed a very quiet sloshing sound while at a stop light. How do I tell if my head gasket is hosed or if it's just the overflow tank? I'm not overheating, my temperature stays completely steady slightly under the halfway point on the gauge.
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Jun 9, 2017 02:37
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Sounds like a wheel bearing by the description of it getting better when you turn to one direction. Look up a YouTube video. Does it sound like that? `Nemesis posted:Can you post video? Continuing the saga of the 2014 Accent weird noise, I got 4 short videos that hopefully help with identifying the noise and its source: Engine rev while parked: no strange noises Slow drive and turn: faint noises can be heard at 7-8s (sharp cut to left) and 20-28s (long left turn) Drive at speed: noise was continuous. Road is uneven and there's a lot of vibration. It was mostly intermittent for the remainder or my commute. Backing up: was braking while backing. This noise did not present itself when backing up yesterday. I appreciate any input and if the sound is too poor on the videos I'll try to use a better camera. Unfortunately I only had my phone on me on the commute back. cigaw fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 02:39
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Cross posting from the mazda thread, anyone have any recommendations on new tires for my '14 mazda 3? The current tires are 215/45R18. I have separate wheels and tires for winter, so I'd like a good 3 season tire, with a focus on less road noise and more comfort. Anything that says Michelin energy saver.
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Jun 9, 2017 02:47
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I've got a noisy 525i which I though had an exhaust leak. When cold it's OK, but a fair bit of valve train ticking, especially around #5 piston. It's definitely worse after it's warmed up so I was ready to change exhaust gaskets. With a short length of garden hose to my ear though, it's loudest behind the flange, but that's where #5 piston joins up Does this look like a bad join to you. The disclouration says yes, but I couldn't detect any air coming from it with a tissue, especially the amount of air that the noise would indicate a serious leak. It's just hell loud with a hose to my ear.  full size photo here http://imgur.com/14Q2CZR Anyone know if that flange is supposed to be welded internally, or is it a loose collar around the flared/bent pipe? 1991 BMW 525i Trying to work out whether to get it welded or whether the pipe needs replacing Fo3 fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 07:28
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Fo3 posted:I've got a noisy 525i which I though had an exhaust leak. When cold it's OK, but a fair bit of valve train ticking, especially around #5 piston. Run the engine with the hood closed outside on a calm day until it's warmed up. Then open the hood and see if there's any exhaust in the engine bay or a strong smell of it.
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Jun 9, 2017 16:17
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My MR2 has an oil leak that I am 99% sure is the valve stem seals. I was gonna just deal with it because I plan on dropping a 2GR in the thing anyway, but it turns out I need to be in college a year longer than I thought so I won't be able to do an engine swap until prolly 2020 at the earliest. Meanwhile I drive 50 miles each way to and from campus 5 days a week. So my question is two fold: will the oil leak lead to engine damage if not fixed, and if so how hard is it to replace the valve stem seals? I've done brakes, radiators, condensors and oil coolers before but a cursory glance makes this look scary to my mechanically uninclined brain.
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Jun 9, 2017 17:57
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How much oil is it burning? If it's not sucking down so much that it's fouling the plugs / caking the cylinder in carbon, then your only real concern is making sure you don't run it low on oil.
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Jun 9, 2017 18:03
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My last car was an RX7, so me running it out of oil is of no concern rofl It is burning enough that I need to add oil about once a week. Also when the car is pointed downhill I smell burning oil, otherwise I never really smell it, just see some smoke at startup. It's done this for the 18k miles I've put on ot with no noticeable impacts though I prolly should check the plugs to be sure.
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Jun 9, 2017 18:14
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Valve guides/valve stem seals wouldn't be related to an external oil leak, only oil burning. They would, however, cause some smoke on a cold start (or some smoke when you're leaving a stop after idling awhile). Check your valve cover gasket. That leaking could easily cause oil to drip on the exhaust manifold (and could eventually cause a case of  if it leaks bad enough). If oil is collecting around the spark plugs, and it's the design where the spark plug goes into a small opening, that would probably be be the spark plug tube o-rings (which are usually included with a valve cover gasket).Valve cover gasket is pretty easy on most 4 cylinders. I'm not that familiar with the MR2 (aside from knowing they're fun as hell and have the engine in the proper location), but I assume the exhaust manifold is facing toward the front of the car, like most transverse 4 cylinders of that time? If so, pointing downhill and a smell of burning oil (with possibly a little smoke) in the engine compartment would also point at the valve cover gasket.
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Jun 9, 2017 19:54
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Ah, ok. Yeah the headers do come out the front, so I guess that'd explain it. The valve seals are still prolly bad regardless because old engine but the cover gasket should be an easy fix.
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Jun 9, 2017 20:15
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Valve guides/valve stem seals wouldn't be related to an external oil leak, only oil burning. They would, however, cause some smoke on a cold start (or some smoke when you're leaving a stop after idling awhile). Is your exhaust/the bodywork near it sooty? If not, STR is on it. The downhill thing makes me think you're leaking from the valve cover gasket onto your header which was on the forward side of my old AW11. Toyota also likes to use weird grommets or valve cover bolts that shrink/pack over time. You may want to look into replacing them if/when you do the gaskets, so the problem doesn't re-appear. It was an easy job on my MR2, I don't think a 2nd gen would be much harder but I've never worked on one. Hopefully that fixes it. If you're really burning that much oil internally I'd be worried about it destroying your cat.
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Jun 9, 2017 20:20
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Boys who love boys
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So I'm attempting my most complicated DIY project yet! But I've hit a snag.... I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler (65th) I'm the only owner. Well I've done some minor things here and there but nothing too complicated. The other day I stopped at the gas station, and then it wouldn't start when I came back out. Wasn't even trying to turn over, so I called AAA (thinking it was the battery). They came out said the battery despite being a few years old, was in great shape. Rather it was probably the starter. So while waiting for the tow I started looking up about wrangler starters, and seemed pretty easy! Picked one up yesterday, and what was supposed to be about a 20 minute job is now going on 4 hours. Basically where I'm running into problems is with the top mounting bolt. I can't get the loving thing to budge. The bottom one came out with a little muscle, but I just can't really get the leverage on the top one. I've been hitting it with a hammer, and also soaked it down a couple of times so far with PB Blaster. The bolt is still flushed with the bell housing though so not so sure that the lube will get in there. Anyone have any suggestions? I wasn't actually having any issues till this god damned bolt wouldn't move. Here's a video, and the guy basically has the same problem at around 5:40. He eventually gets it loose, I can't seem to budge mine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RThwstd1O5U&t=4s UrielX fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 21:50
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2002 Lexus IS300 Base I need new front calipers, rotors, and pads - but autopartswarehouse.com, amazon, ebay, and all the links in the References thread are coming up short. I don't want to do the whole core charge thing, and I'd like to get painted, preferably red.
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Jun 9, 2017 21:53
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yamdankee posted:2002 Lexus IS300 Base Rockauto.com has POWER STOP KCOE1077 front rotor/caliper/pad kits for $224 before core refund. If you want red, you can paint them or spend $1500-$3k on a big brake kit.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:12
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Thanks for the reply monsterzero! Yeah I had rockauto open, too. But I've never used them and I'm weary of buying the product without seeing a picture but I guess I don't have to. Should I send the core back? How do these compare to these?
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Jun 9, 2017 22:16
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What do I do with old wheels and tires? I have the OEM 17s for my 2012 Mustang and the five-year-old all-seasons still on 'em, and I just want them gone.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:23
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UrielX posted:Anyone have any suggestions? As my old man would say, "grab it and growl". Get a longer breaker bar on there if you can, or go after it with a few braaaaaps from an impact wrench.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:34
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yamdankee posted:Thanks for the reply monsterzero! Yeah I had rockauto open, too. But I've never used them and I'm weary of buying the product without seeing a picture but I guess I don't have to. Should I send the core back? How do these compare to these? I've never sent core back. If it comes with a return label, absolutely. Otherwise if the core is more than my time+shipping I would. Rockauto has never done me wrong, but you have to be smart about ordering parts from the same warehouse or shipping can kill ya. Those loaded calipers are probably similar, and if you add rotors and pads the pricing will probably be similar too. If you want to see pics, try rolling your own combo, just watch the warehouses. Cocoa Crispies posted:What do I do with old wheels and tires? I have the OEM 17s for my 2012 Mustang and the five-year-old all-seasons still on 'em, and I just want them gone. Craigslist? Maybe (used) tire shops would buy them for a few bucks.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:37
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Cocoa Crispies posted:What do I do with old wheels and tires? I have the OEM 17s for my 2012 Mustang and the five-year-old all-seasons still on 'em, and I just want them gone.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:38
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Depends where you live but there's a constant stream of tires and rims being sold in my town. I just sold an unwanted pair of tires this afternoon.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:39
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Haul them to a metal recycler, though you'd probably get more even as a super lowball on Craigslist.
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Jun 9, 2017 22:39
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I bought a $500 Starlet a few months ago. Mechanically, it's in very good nick for a car of its age/pricing strata (PO's were reasonably fastidious about maintenance and it came with a stack of records about an inch thick), the main reason it was so cheap was it needed a few minor wear items replaced... and the paint is in really tragic shape. I thought I might have a go at redoing the paint as a DIY project; I'm only working part-time and have two weeks holiday coming up. I am fully aware it's not going to look 'good as new'; I'd be happy for it to be a 10-15' paint job. Pros: plenty of time, nothing to lose cosmetically. I have a second vehicle (motorbike) so if it needs to sit while a coat is drying, that's fine. Cons: limited budget, I don't have a garage or even a covered area I can work on it/park it, and I'd be limited to weekends to paint as it's a shared parking lot. (I'd be working on a dirt section that's officially "mine", but I want to do it when the sealed lot it adjoins is empty.) Wouldn't be able to get electricity to my working space, although to strip the paint off I can probably swing an orbital sander on an extension cord out the window when nobody's around, if I'm good about cleanup. Lots of condensation and soon to be frost in the mornings as it's getting cold here. Car needs to be moved back behind the fence (see pic) at night due to likelihood of another break-in, but is fine to sit there during day.  Is this situation pretty much impossible, or could I work with it? I'm in it probably 50% to improve the cars' looks, 50% as a DIY project to learn (got a few dents to fill too). I figured I would do rollers rather than spray. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 10, 2017 00:21
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Painting car on dirt. Painting sucks. Don't do it.
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Jun 10, 2017 00:48
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Painting is fun. Do it.
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Jun 10, 2017 01:18
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
I forget where I saw it but a guy repainted a car on his front street using tremclad, rollers and a lot of high grit sandpaper. You'll have to spend a fuckload of time sanding because you'll get dirt and grit into the paint while it's drying. It's going to be super lovely and a ton of work but if that's what you want then go for it.
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Jun 10, 2017 02:02
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Cocoa Crispies posted:What do I do with old wheels and tires? I have the OEM 17s for my 2012 Mustang and the five-year-old all-seasons still on 'em, and I just want them gone. One of my coworkers brought over his electric impact wrench. Did absolutely nothing. We went and bought a breaker bar and a propane torch, the breaker bar did it. Go to put the new one on, and go figure..... they one they sold me didn't loving fit. At least the hard part is done, and I'll have the correct starter tomorrow (with the core charge, and 10% off too)
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Jun 10, 2017 02:58
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