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NPR Journalizard posted:If staples are causing that many problems, dont use staples. Get some wood screws, enough washers for each screw, and screw the carpet on. Will last longer than staples, and will be easier to remove when you are done. Or a strong adhesive.
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Jun 12, 2017 05:55
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Bad Munki posted:Then you lack ambition. Have self control, lack ambition, whatever. Metal Geir Skogul posted:? Okay I need to get one of these. I have a set of chairs that need reupholstering and I didn't know these were a thing, thanks.
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Jun 12, 2017 06:28
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Tony Doughnuts posted:Or a strong adhesive. I used gorilla glue to attach some cheap carpet to the top of some shelves for our cat and it's working great
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Jun 12, 2017 12:25
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Tony Doughnuts posted:Or a strong adhesive. The installer of the next carpet after you will curse your name.
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Jun 12, 2017 16:26
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kid sinister posted:The installer of the next carpet after you will curse your name. It's a cat tree.
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Jun 12, 2017 16:28
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Bad Munki posted:It's a cat tree. New thread title mods if you please
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Jun 12, 2017 16:38
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Bad Munki posted:It's a cat tree.
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Jun 12, 2017 16:38
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Bunch of cat slumlords ITT
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Jun 12, 2017 16:50
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Bad Munki posted:It's a cat tree. This has me  ing hard.
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Jun 12, 2017 16:59
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canyoneer posted:Bunch of cat slumlords ITT Don't you even talk to me about quality custom cat trees for quality custom cats 
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Jun 12, 2017 17:13
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Bad Munki posted:It's a cat tree. Oh that's fine then. Don't do it for regular carpet.
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Jun 12, 2017 17:13
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Bad Munki posted:It's a cat tree. loving cat tree flippera don't care about quality construction
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Jun 12, 2017 17:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:New thread title mods if you please
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Jun 13, 2017 04:07
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Random question: is there a place you can buy the female battery connector for Makita batteries? Like just the part that's on the tool that the battery connects to. I kinda want to be able to hack around with them for powering miscellaneous stuff. I am considering designing and 3D-printing my own but I figure such a thing has got to exist, because Makita sells one that comes with their heated jacket (yes that is a real thing)  
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Jun 17, 2017 23:21
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Sagebrush posted:Random question: is there a place you can buy the female battery connector for Makita batteries? Like just the part that's on the tool that the battery connects to. I kinda want to be able to hack around with them for powering miscellaneous stuff. I think you want an inline female barrel jack. Common sizes are 2.1 and 2.5mm. Adafruit has some barrel jack to screw terminal adapters that could be useful.
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Jun 18, 2017 00:25
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LurkBot posted:I think you want an inline female barrel jack. Common sizes are 2.1 and 2.5mm. Adafruit has some barrel jack to screw terminal adapters that could be useful.
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Jun 18, 2017 00:28
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Get the one for the jacket as pictured and hack it up? Buy an old busted tool on eBay and hack it up?
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Jun 18, 2017 01:04
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Sagebrush posted:Random question: is there a place you can buy the female battery connector for Makita batteries? Like just the part that's on the tool that the battery connects to. I kinda want to be able to hack around with them for powering miscellaneous stuff. You didn't say what battery voltage you are working with, but they sell a few different cordless tools of varying voltages, and I don't think the connector is interchangeable between voltage levels. I think 18V is fairly common, so assuming you have that, I google (shopping) search for: makita 18v and sort by price lowest first, and the first result is that battery connector, sold by 10 different online stores. Looks like the cheapest is $22 shipped from here: http://www.tools-plus.com/makita-adp05.html e: oooh, doing the same makita 18v search on ebay came up with this for $10: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-XDT04-18v-LXT-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Terminal-/222413596598 e2: or used for $2 less http://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-XPH01-18V-LXT-Lithium-Ion-1-2-Hammer-Driver-Drill-Terminal-/222541126882 peepsalot fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jun 18, 2017 |
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Jun 18, 2017 01:07
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Looking for 18v lithium, like Makita uses in all their current-model green power tools (not the 12v white ones). Nothing wrong with the one I linked, except that AFAICT you can only get it with the jacket, which -- while extremely stylish -- I don't need. The one that peepsalot found is not the same thing. It has a pair of USB ports on the front and thus some internal voltage conversion, and no direct battery leads. I want one that has a wire connected to the battery terminals and that's it, full battery voltage out. I can't find one of those. I have considered buying a busted tool and hacking it up, but the connector on its own has got to be like 10 dollars while a broken tool is still gonna be a few times that. e: peepsalot posted:e: oooh, doing the same makita 18v search on ebay came up with this for $10: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Makita-XDT04-18v-LXT-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Terminal-/222413596598 boom, that's the one. Still need to 3D-print a proper housing for it but that's the connector.
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Jun 18, 2017 01:13
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Go to your local makita repair shop, tell them you want a busted beyond repair tool just so you can rip the connector out to gently caress around. They usually have a graveyard that you might even be able to pull poo poo from for free, or an under the table donation of ten bucks to whoever lets you poke through the bin. You gotta find a local place though, obviously this won't work at lowe's.
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Jun 18, 2017 01:16
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I was curious if there was a similar part I could get for my dewalt "20V MAX" li-ion batteries. Looks you have to get the whole trigger assembly though, for $26 at its cheapest: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-Dewalt-20V-Impact-Trigger-Switch-DCF885-DCF883-DCF880-N359999-/302295844685 Somewhat tempted to get one just for fun
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Jun 18, 2017 01:38
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You want the one that comes with the Makita coffee maker
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Jun 18, 2017 04:34
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Not sure if this is the best thread for this type of question, but can anyone of you guys recommend a good motion detector light for backyard/patio use? We have some raccoons that keep on visiting our yard and pooping in the dark corners, and we were hoping to scare them off with bright, obnoxious motion lights. We have an existing light whose fixture (controlled via lightswitch) we can use, so it doesn't need to be solar-powered.
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Jun 18, 2017 18:43
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melon cat posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this type of question, but can anyone of you guys recommend a good motion detector light for backyard/patio use? We have some raccoons that keep on visiting our yard and pooping in the dark corners, and we were hoping to scare them off with bright, obnoxious motion lights. We have an existing light whose fixture (controlled via lightswitch) we can use, so it doesn't need to be solar-powered. I bought this light for my workshop and have been reasonably happy with it. But I suspect you'll find that raccoons won't care much about being lit up once they figure out that there's nothing else accompanying the light (like a hose, say, or a dog).
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Jun 18, 2017 18:50
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The 4 pack of Bessey clamps are on sale today at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-Clutch-Clamp-Set-4-Piece-GSCC4PK/205086977
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Jun 18, 2017 19:55
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melon cat posted:Not sure if this is the best thread for this type of question, but can anyone of you guys recommend a good motion detector light for backyard/patio use? We have some raccoons that keep on visiting our yard and pooping in the dark corners, and we were hoping to scare them off with bright, obnoxious motion lights. We have an existing light whose fixture (controlled via lightswitch) we can use, so it doesn't need to be solar-powered. Might also want to look into a motion activated sprinkler too. Getting hit with a blast of water when they come into turn yard might be a more effective solution than just lights. https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-62100-Enforcer-Activated-Sprinkler/dp/B009F1R0GC
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Jun 18, 2017 20:56
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coathat posted:The 4 pack of Bessey clamps are on sale today at Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-Clutch-Clamp-Set-4-Piece-GSCC4PK/205086977 These have been on sale at this price for a couple of weeks now. Regardless, for the price, definitely pick up a pack or two if the size works for your projects.
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Jun 18, 2017 21:10
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Might also want to look into a motion activated sprinkler too. Getting hit with a blast of water when they come into turn yard might be a more effective solution than just lights.  https://youtu.be/HQDy-5IQvuU
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Jun 19, 2017 00:35
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FYI you can set up a simple, re-usable electric fence for well under a hundred bucks. Won't kill or damage anything at all, but it'll pretty effectively deter critters from getting into places they shouldn't. A single line about 6" off the ground should be easy enough to maintain (you don't want grass and poo poo laying against it, it'll lessen the potency) and installation is a cinch. I had some gophers or something routinely digging up some saplings I was trying to plant. Like every morning I'd come out and all the saplings would be laying on the ground, roots exposed. Anyhow, a quick trip to Tractor Supply co and a few minutes of driving stakes later and I haven't had a single plant dug up since. And if you're worried about it actually doing harm, I took my .1 joule unit and put the contacts directly on my forearm. Gave me a good poke, made me jump and say "WOW" but didn't even leave a mark and I'd be happy enough to do it again to prove it's safe. It only clicks once a second, so any critter rubbing up against it gets a hit and has plenty of time to move away, lesson-learned. Here's what you need: Charger: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/american-farmworks-5-mile-ac-powered-low-impedance-charger?cm_vc=-10005 Wire: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/zareba-polywire-200-meter-9-conductors?cm_vc=-10005 Insulators: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/american-farmworks-yellow-wood-post-knob-insulators?cm_vc=-10005 Oh, and some wooden stakes and a metal grounding stake. More on that below. To set the thing up, take your wooden stakes (grab a 1x2 and cut it into 12" length, sharpen one end, there ya go) and drive an insulator into the face of each one, somewhere near the top. You might want to pre-drill to keep the nail from splitting it. Drive your stakes into the ground so the insulator is at whatever height you want your wire. Depends on the size of the critter you're after. I had to do mine just a couple inches off the ground, which is more difficult, but for a raccoon, you can go higher. Once you have your stakes in, hang your charger up somewhere nearby where you'll be able to run an extension cord to it. Grab your wire, hook it up to the hot end of your charger, and run it around the loop of stakes. I like the polywire linked above because it's real flexible, and easy to repair if you gently caress it up with a weedwhacker, ask me how I know. To patch it, you can just get a new length, and tie it on to each end of a break. The wires will make perfectly good contact in the knot, and voila, you're live again. Anyhow, once it's all wired up, grab your ground stake, drive it in somewhere nearby, and connect a ground wire from the ground terminal on your charger to that. Plug the unit in to your extension cord, pick a spot, pucker up, and lean your leg up against it to prove to yourself it's working. Don't do that last part if you have a strong charger or heart condition or don't want to get shocked. An alternative is to chat with your neighbor until their overweight pug checks the function of the fence for you. You can also stick your head down by the charger and you'll be able to hear it CLICK, CLICK, CLICK as it periodically energizes the fence. As for the stake, they recommend a full-size 8' grounding stake, or like three of 'em, but lol, for a little temporary fence, it doesn't need to be that severe unless your soil is super dry or non-conductive for other reasons. So if you're on Vegas, you might want to find an alternative grounding method. In my case, I had an old 18" steel prybar I hammered in to the ground and wrapped the wire around. Works great for a small, temporary fence. If you have awful soil for this sort of thing, you can get some chicken wire, lay it out flat below the fence as a sort of "welcome mat" to critters, and connect your ground to that. Note: I said connect the ground to that, not the hot. Confusing the two will render your fence useless. The way the fence works is that the fence wire is charged hot, and a critter makes the connection between that and the (literal) ground, which closes the circuit through the grounding rod back to the charger, making the animal yelp and gtfo of there. If the (again, literal) ground doesn't work for that, the chicken wire jump pad makes a great replacement, although it can be a bit fiddly to install. If you have an old-timey farmer around who grew up doing it the way his father did, which is "however you could to make it work," don't listen to them about the fence. They'll have you wiring up the mains directly to the fence and then you'll be killing poo poo that touches it, including raccoons, dogs, neighbors, etc. Possibly also starting fires. Fun! The periodic charger as linked above is pretty safe. Anyhow, that was my approach to a similar problem, after trying numerous other options. This one worked. For reference, here's my ghetto setup. It's a bit shoddy because this is only intended to be temporary until the trees are established. You may want something a little more permanent.    I used a crossing pattern between the horizontal wires because I'm trying to keep fairly small creatures out, you don't need that. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 01:06
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Would this work on cats or would they just jump over it?
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Jun 19, 2017 03:27
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Spookydonut posted:Would this work on cats or would they just jump over it? Depends, I mean, most critters will check a new thing out before bypassing it like that, which likely means a nice jolt to the nose, at which point the cat will call it sufficiently checked out and avoid the thing. I think the key would be setting it up such that it'd be easy enough for the cat to slip over/under it, so they do that instead. Like, my little fence there is all of 8" high at most, but as far as I can tell, NO critters have gone in since its installation.
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Jun 19, 2017 03:33
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Bad Munki posted:Depends, I mean, most critters will check a new thing out before bypassing it like that, which likely means a nice jolt to the nose, at which point the cat will call it sufficiently checked out and avoid the thing. I think the key would be setting it up such that it'd be easy enough for the cat to slip over/under it, so they do that instead. No I mean to keep cats out on purpose, although I think they might not be legal here, especially on top of a fence.
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Jun 19, 2017 03:41
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Right, that's my point, the cat would come to check it out, get shocked, say "gently caress that," and leave. The top of the fence thing makes it trickier. The offending animal has to make contact with the wire and ground at the same time to get zapped. Another approach is to run two parallel wires, one hot, and one grounded, then they just have to bridge the wires. Still tricky on top of a fence though. I'm assuming a narrow fence, like a privacy fence or some such. The legality of the thing I can't speak to. I'm in rural Iowa so that poo poo's common af. If you live in downtown LA, yeah I dunno. It's still pretty safe, like I said, not gonna actually hurt anything, but a persnickety neighbor might put up a stink regardless of whether you're within what's acceptable on paper. In my case, I told my neighbor what I'd done, and then together we watched her dog get shocked, said "yep it works. Thanks, dog" and that was that. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 03:44
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Lowe's currently doing the "buy a $600 miter saw, get a $200 stand free." I'm in the market for a saw and had settled on the 716 (12" non-sliding) and the stand. With this deal I can get the 780 (12" sliding) and stand for roughly the same price. I'm having a hard time walking away from what I'd consider a "free upgrade," but it seems like overkill for what I think I'm going to be using it for primarily, and the fact that it is fuckoff huge and fuckoff heavy with the slide means it's going to be that much more of a pain in the rear end to haul around. What're people's thoughts on pros and cons? Is the base roughly the same (if I read complaints or praises about the features like dust collection, clamping, fences etc. are they equivalent)? I realize the kerf plate is longer for the slider and the miter gauge is offset to the side as opposed to along the kerf, but I guess I'm thinking or the miter, bevel, dust collection, and fence mechanisms and adjustments I guess. The immediate job is redoing a deck, but I very often need or want a simple 90 degree or 45 degree chop saw for random poo poo, it's not like I'm going to be doing a lot of flooring or molding etc. I guess if it becomes really untenable I can just get a 10" non sliding one down the line to haul around and this can reside permanently in the basement, like the setups some of you guys posted here when I asked about the 716 a few pages back. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 13:52
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Jun 19, 2017 15:23
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uwaeve posted:What're people's thoughts on pros and cons? Is the base roughly the same (if I read complaints or praises about the features like dust collection, clamping, fences etc. are they equivalent)? I realize the kerf plate is longer for the slider and the miter gauge is offset to the side as opposed to along the kerf, but I guess I'm thinking or the miter, bevel, dust collection, and fence mechanisms and adjustments I guess. Do you need the sliding capability? A non-sliding miter saw can cut through fairly wide boards -- IIRC mine does 2x10s at 90 degrees. If you usually don't need to cut through anything wider than that, then the sliding saw is just extra expense and difficulty calibrating for no real functional gain. For the rare wide boards that you do need to cut through, you can cut partially, flip the board, and cut again, though that's kind of fiddly and hard to do perfectly. On the other hand, if you do expect to need to cut wide boards often, you don't want to be using the flip trick. In that case a sliding saw does make sense.
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Jun 19, 2017 15:34
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24" bessey bar clamps, usually $24, have been on sale at Home Depot for $13 for a while now. Well, today they're clearing out any remaining stock and are marking them down to $6 and change. I cleaned out two HDs this morning, the third was already empty. They hadn't even put the stickers up at all of them yet. The sale price doesn't appear online, it only shows up in the store. Go get 'em! This is the actual clamp, it's NOT the clutch style: http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-TG-Series-24-in-Bar-Clamp-with-Wood-Handle-and-4-in-Throat-Depth-TG4-024/204986221
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Jun 19, 2017 16:12
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that's some prime av material m8 uwaeve posted:Lowe's currently doing the "buy a $600 miter saw, get a $200 stand free." Get the tool you need for the job. In this case, get a loving circular saw, which is the tool you need for the job.
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Jun 19, 2017 16:27
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Engrish on your Chinesium?
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Jun 19, 2017 16:35
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uwaeve posted:Lowe's currently doing the "buy a $600 miter saw, get a $200 stand free." Mr. Mambold posted:Get the tool you need for the job. In this case, get a loving circular saw, which is the tool you need for the job. This. For the job you have, you can basically do with a good circular saw and a speed-square. In fact it might be less annoying to use in the long run for that task. I bought a 10" sliding double-bevel, and while I do not "regret" it (it's a great tool and I've used it's extra capacity on a few occasions that would have been annoying otherwise) it's not essential unless you're doing a lot of cuts at the exact angle. If I had it to do again I definitely would have put the money elsewhere first, and if/when I did decide to get a miter saw it probably would have been simpler. It's not going to be a "bad" tool, but dollar-for-dollar it's probably not going to be as useful as you anticipate (unless you are planning on putting up molding sometime in the near future). Consider, for example, that it's really only safe to be using for cross-cuts on long pieces. It's not just "How often am I going to need to do a cut > 8in", but "how often am I going to do multiple cuts > 8in on pieces > 2ft long".
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Jun 19, 2017 20:05
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