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Fwiw, I feel like I can fit about 20 pounds of crushed grain in a five gallon bucket. Design limitation? Love the setup and kind of jealous of what you are doing there.
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Jun 11, 2017 03:57
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That's a 6.5 gallon bucket in there. That usually holds about 25 pounds of crushed grain. I regularly have to swap buckets mid-crush, so that's nothing new. Still fiddling with hoppers. My old hopper was five gallons, so I want to at least equal that.
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Jun 11, 2017 04:09
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Jo3sh posted:That's a 6.5 gallon bucket in there. That usually holds about 25 pounds of crushed grain. I regularly have to swap buckets mid-crush, so that's nothing new. Still fiddling with hoppers. My old hopper was five gallons, so I want to at least equal that. Yeah, I can't wait to see what you've come up with, because I need ideas for how to build myself a grinding rig. Now that I have room for power tools, I'm wanting to build myself something useful (other than the shelves that will help me organize my brewing stuff like a library). To be clear, my cereal killer and the hopper have been through a cross country move and a child who liked to lift it up by the hopper. So it's not terribly designed, but really isn't built to take a beating or large loads of grain. I think I want to actually build it semi-enclosed as well, because my unfinished basement gets a fair amount of dust from being 100 years old and brick. I'm sitting and waiting for my boil to start on this saison I'm making with 3724 because it's gotten too hot and I can really take advantage of it by leaving the yeast to free climb in the heat. I've not used it before, but I'm opting for a semi-open topped fermentation to try to avoid the stall. Mashing at 145 should also help with this. It may be hot, but drat if brewing isn't still super relaxing.
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Jun 11, 2017 18:40
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Just got the supplies to do a partial mash oatmeal cream ale that is a big hit in my house. I love doing cream ales with oatmeal, it really adds texture.
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Jun 12, 2017 02:05
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Do you use flaked oats, or oat malt?
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Jun 12, 2017 02:31
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Jo3sh posted:Do you use flaked oats, or oat malt? 2 row Flaked maize Flaked oats In a 3-2-1 ratio using a protein rest during the mash. Since its a partial I add 6 lbs of pilsen lme hop it with 1 oz of hallertau at 15 mins and dry hop with 1 oz each of citra, Amarillo and Nelson sauvin. It makes a lightly bitter very citrusy cream ale with good body and clarity after cold crashing it. Errant Gin Monks fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 03:21
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rockcity posted:Man I love that yeast. It's a favourite tbh. I went to the effort of organising a TYB bulk buy through a local supplier just to get 3 vials of it (amongst 17 vials of yeast for myself). We ended up with about 125 vials through the one bulk buy!! I used it in a Baltic Porter that I regarded about 9 months later after finding it in the back of a fridge and  So I'm curious what goons think - I did a recipe that was supposed to be a session NEIPA 2.4kg pale malt 1kg oat malt 225g light crystal Mashed at 64C 90 mins and ramped to 72, held for 20 mins and boiled for an hour Added about an ounce each (from memory) of Brooklyn, cascade and simcoe at flame out for 20, no chilled into a cube, pitched a healthy starter of Vermont IPA, added dry hop 1 of an ounce each of Brooklyn, cascade and simcoe on day 1, let it finish, added 30g of simcoe and 20g cascade and put it in to cold crash. There is literally no hop aroma, flavour or anything. Maybe a minute amount. But in a beer with nearly 300g hops in a 23 litre batch? Non existent. I'm confused because there is minimal spec malts specifically to avoid overpowering the hop character, the hops were relatively fresh and had been stored in a freezer. Thoughts?
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Jun 12, 2017 03:31
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McSpergin posted:It's a favourite tbh. I went to the effort of organising a TYB bulk buy through a local supplier just to get 3 vials of it (amongst 17 vials of yeast for myself). We ended up with about 125 vials through the one bulk buy!! I used it in a Baltic Porter that I regarded about 9 months later after finding it in the back of a fridge and Probably dry hopped it a little early is all I can think. Most of the time I see people adding the hops for biotransformation on day 3, but you should still have some from the second dry hop. Has it been packaged already? The only thing I can think of is the cold crash messing with the nose of it, but even that isn't really making sense to me. Does it taste nice and juicy or does it have none of the characteristics you were hoping for?
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Jun 12, 2017 03:36
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McSpergin posted:It's a favourite tbh. I went to the effort of organising a TYB bulk buy through a local supplier just to get 3 vials of it (amongst 17 vials of yeast for myself). We ended up with about 125 vials through the one bulk buy!! I used it in a Baltic Porter that I regarded about 9 months later after finding it in the back of a fridge and I normally let it ferment all the way, rack into secondary to save the cake and then dry hop for 5-7 days. Hopping during cold crash, from what I understand, will limit the absorption of hop flavors, hopping during active fermentation the gas bubbling off can pull hop aromas out. But I haven't ever done it those ways that's just what I have read.
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Jun 12, 2017 04:20
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when I was last regularly brewing, I pretty much decided I should add a tab of whirlfloc to every batch I ever made from that point forward. and I guess I have. y'all have any thoughts on it? I've been even adding it to my hefes
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Jun 12, 2017 05:59
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I ran out a batch or two ago. As much as I pooh-pooh brilliantly clear beer, I made sure to buy some today at the brew shop. A little haze is no issue, but outright murk is a little too much for me.
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Jun 12, 2017 06:01
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mindphlux posted:when I was last regularly brewing, I pretty much decided I should add a tab of whirlfloc to every batch I ever made from that point forward. and I guess I have. y'all have any thoughts on it? I've been even adding it to my hefes Yeah, stuff works great. I have the facilities to cold crash but have never bothered.
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Jun 12, 2017 06:39
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mindphlux posted:when I was last regularly brewing, I pretty much decided I should add a tab of whirlfloc to every batch I ever made from that point forward. and I guess I have. y'all have any thoughts on it? I've been even adding it to my hefes Every time That poo poo is magical.
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Jun 12, 2017 07:21
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McSpergin posted:It's a favourite tbh. I went to the effort of organising a TYB bulk buy through a local supplier just to get 3 vials of it (amongst 17 vials of yeast for myself). We ended up with about 125 vials through the one bulk buy!! I used it in a Baltic Porter that I regarded about 9 months later after finding it in the back of a fridge and You could probably have waited with the dry hopping until primary fermentation is slowing down, about when then krausen is falling. The largest improvement you'll see come from fermenting, transferring and dry-hopping under pressure. Serve in kegs. Limiting exposure to oxygen is priority number 1. I'd say you blew most out of the airlock during fermentation by adding your hops so early, and then probably exposed it to oxygen somehow, or maybe you have a cold. mindphlux posted:when I was last regularly brewing, I pretty much decided I should add a tab of whirlfloc to every batch I ever made from that point forward. and I guess I have. y'all have any thoughts on it? I've been even adding it to my hefes I'm experimenting with cutting finings out entirely. If I can achieve "good enough" results by improving my process 'd rather have less additives in my beer. Brewing mostly saisons help. thotsky fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 07:38
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mindphlux posted:when I was last regularly brewing, I pretty much decided I should add a tab of whirlfloc to every batch I ever made from that point forward. and I guess I have. y'all have any thoughts on it? I've been even adding it to my hefes I just toss some irish moss in when I add my immersion chiller at 10 min. It gets pretty clear, and while I'm not one to be overly particular, if a little oppositely charged ions can help me along the way, then why not? It was much cheaper than whirlfloc tablets though, so there's no chance that I'm switching. It's basically just irish moss and the active ingredient in irish moss (carrageenan) anyway. At this point it's just habit, but I bought a pound of the stuff, so why not?
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Jun 12, 2017 19:16
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Time and keg space have kind of gotten in the way of doing the next brew, but I'm thinking I want to do a "Bigger" version of the Galaxy Pond Recipe found here: http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/3684/galaxy-pond-pale-ale This is the original recipe, but I think I'd make it 1.065-1.070 OG and about 65 IBU. code:LaserWash fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 20:43
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LaserWash posted:Time and keg space have kind of gotten in the way of doing the next brew, but I'm thinking I want to do a "Bigger" version of the Galaxy Pond Recipe found here: Nothing. I really like Mirror Pond during the summer months, so a hoppier version will definitely work for a lot of people. It's strong suit is that you can drink a bunch of it without getting hammered though.
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Jun 12, 2017 20:56
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Thanks to everyone who got me really well started in the right direction with the 10gal barrel. I'm going to ferment separately and let an imperial stout age in it and then drink it in the winter. And for anyone kicking around the idea of switching to kegging but are worried about the cost, my god do your future self a favor and just go for it. Factor in the cost of your time and frustration bottling. I found a kegerator on craigslist for $100 including tap and CO2. Sure it also included 5 dead mice in the compressor area and needed to be zealously cleaned several times, but hey, $100 kegerator. All I'm saying is they're out there. Kegs, lines, regulators, go on sale a lot. I will never bottle again unless it something special I want to save. I have since converted it to a dual tap and it fits 2 corny kegs and lots of other cans/bottles quite nicely. If you've come this far, regularly making your own beer,  it up! 
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Jun 12, 2017 22:15
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yamdankee posted:Thanks to everyone who got me really well started in the right direction with the 10gal barrel. I'm going to ferment separately and let an imperial stout age in it and then drink it in the winter. I just went for four kegs with picnic taps. I'm already thinking that the 5 tap gas manifold is probably too small, but maybe I just need to buy more kegs and empty them quick enough to keep up. Unfortunately, the out post on one of them is leaking just a little bit, so I probably just need to check that O-ring and make sure it's emptied fairly quickly (I think I can accomplish that). What I don't want to do is move the 5-gal of beer in it to another one at this point and will tear down the other three entirely and check them before using them. I'm just happy I did test it before filling it with something I would hate to see ruined by a bad seal.
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Jun 12, 2017 22:53
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Regarding my post I had originally planned to pressure ferment but I currently don't have a fridge that fits my fermentasaurus. Also I dont use airlocks, I wrap my fermenters with plastic and use the lid gasket as a rubber band. I haven't had an infection in fermentation since I started doing this unless there was a specific gently caress up ie the one time there was water pooled on top of it for a couple days and I went to add dry hops, the water went in and it got infected. Its almost pressure fermentation at this point. Having said that I plan to start pressure fermenting soon and will be ditching my main fermenting fridge to the dump and buying a brand new upright standalone fridge to use. I also need to sort a kegerator soon and potentially sell off my current lagering fridge and get a second standalone fridge. The lagering fridge is still good too so I could get a decent amount for it as long as I haven't ditched all the shelves from it when I was using it for a ferment fridge.
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Jun 13, 2017 01:08
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Also for reference I have used the exact same method of fermentation to produce super juicy IPAs in the past like heady topper or fresh squeezed clones so my thought is that maybe i have tried to get biotrans too early and it has bubbled away all that lovely hop flavour. And maybe the cold crash didn't give great flavour extraction but I don't remember ever having the problem. Maybe I just need to get a couple more fermentasaurus and pressure rack to secondary in future. I avoided this pre pressure fermentation so to avoid infection and aeration
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Jun 13, 2017 01:12
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McSpergin posted:Also for reference I have used the exact same method of fermentation to produce super juicy IPAs in the past like heady topper or fresh squeezed clones so my thought is that maybe i have tried to get biotrans too early and it has bubbled away all that lovely hop flavour. And maybe the cold crash didn't give great flavour extraction but I don't remember ever having the problem. I've only been brewing a year and a bit, I have never heard of dry hopping right at the start of fermentation like that. I thought common wisdom was to wait until around Day 5 or so, I usually wait until 7-10 days in.
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Jun 13, 2017 06:32
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anyone got tips for troubleshooting pressure loss with a kegging setup? my lines were buried in a deep dark mess of 2 year old mold and nastiness - I got everything out, PBW'd it, hooked it up to a 10lb co2 tank and regulator overnight, with all gas lines open, and I lost maybe 200psi. one of my regs had a check valve that was acting a little weird but I think I cleared that up - I replaced a pressure gauge on my poo poo that had gotten banged up, but other than that no reason to think anything needed to be fixed. not really sure where to start, my instinct is to throw everything in a bathtub and look for bubbles, but
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Jun 13, 2017 08:21
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Chasing leaks is a motherfucker in kegerators, but I think I linked nearly all of mine to my pin-lock gas fittings sitting ever so slightly crooked on the post. There's enough wiggle room in the plastic to cause a leak, and I've taken to just pulling the fitting when I'm done drinking. This particular leak was hard to find because it's not on a "flat" surface, so leak detector fluid doesn't really work. If you can't find it, you'll have to isolate where it might be coming from - shut off one keg at a time overnight and check for PSI drops.
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Jun 13, 2017 12:56
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mindphlux posted:anyone got tips for troubleshooting pressure loss with a kegging setup? my lines were buried in a deep dark mess of 2 year old mold and nastiness - I got everything out, PBW'd it, hooked it up to a 10lb co2 tank and regulator overnight, with all gas lines open, and I lost maybe 200psi. one of my regs had a check valve that was acting a little weird but I think I cleared that up - I replaced a pressure gauge on my poo poo that had gotten banged up, but other than that no reason to think anything needed to be fixed. Leave it all hooked up and make a dish soap and water mixture and put that on every connection you have.
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Jun 13, 2017 13:13
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mindphlux posted:anyone got tips for troubleshooting pressure loss with a kegging setup? my lines were buried in a deep dark mess of 2 year old mold and nastiness - I got everything out, PBW'd it, hooked it up to a 10lb co2 tank and regulator overnight, with all gas lines open, and I lost maybe 200psi. one of my regs had a check valve that was acting a little weird but I think I cleared that up - I replaced a pressure gauge on my poo poo that had gotten banged up, but other than that no reason to think anything needed to be fixed. The regulator and distributor all function using check valves, so downstream leaks should be easy to isolate. If you have one keg the loses pressure and the others are fine, then its that keg. If upstream stuff loses pressure but the kegs are all good, then its somewhere in the distributor or regulator. if everything is losing pressure then you probably either have pissed off elves or your lines going from distributor to kegs are missing nylon washers, causing them all to leak. Also check the washer between the CO2 canister and the regulator. If your system only has one keg this becomes harder. If everything is old and potentially damaged, check the regulator. often the gauges will leak if they've taken a tumble. You can usually hear it.
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Jun 13, 2017 14:57
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Tear down all your kegs and lines and rebuild everything you can. Replace any o-ring that you're even mildly suspicious of. Use keg lube on every seal as you put things back together. Use thread dope or gas-rated teflon tape on any threads that are not flare fittings. When you get the kegs all reassembled, pressurize each one and then pull the gas line off. Liberally spray the top with Star-San or soapy water or leak detector fluid. Anyplace you see bubbling, go back and fix, and repeat until the keg is tight. I also like to pressurize the kegs and leave them alone for a few days. Then I go and pull the relief valve (or press the out poppet) and if I hear a good hiss of escaping gas, I call that tight enough. If you can't find any leaks at the lid, poppets, posts, or pressure relief valves, it's actually possible that you have a pinhole leak in a weld or something - the bathtub might be a good way to try and nail that down. Detecting leaks on line assemblies is harder, but just be methodical. The tub of water approach is not a bad idea. Find any leaks and fix those with thread tape, tubing clamps, etc. QDs can leak too - disassemble them (the back unscrews) and look at the seal and the pin. Again, replace anything suspicious and use a tiny bit of keg lube when you reassemble. Most of all, don't try to fix everything in one go. Work on one keg at a time, for example. Keep your focus small and fix one leak at a time. Work your way through methodically, and keep track of what's fixed, then move on to the next thing. It takes a while, but it pays off in the end. EDIT to add these O-ring sizes. I suggest picking up a bag of 100 of these dash sizes: 109, 111, 013. Also grab a few 417. I like the silicone ones, but Buna-N is a little cheaper. 109 under the dip tubes 111 on the posts 013 inside the QDs 417 lid. Also, this is bugging me: mindphlux posted:I got everything out, PBW'd it, hooked it up to a 10lb co2 tank and regulator overnight, with all gas lines open, and I lost maybe 200psi. You lost 200# on the high-pressure gauge? Did you have this setup in the fridge, cooling? The cooling itself might be what caused the pressure drop. CO2 is liquid in the bottle, so the pressure will be basically constant until you're 99% empty, at which time the pressure drops like a stone. Leaks generally don't cause the high pressure gauge to move unless you've lost the whole bottle, in other words. It's not like nitrogen, which is gaseous in the bottle. The high-pressure gauge on a nitrogen bottle drops basically linearly as you draw off gas, so if that's what you're used to, you may be misled by the way CO2 acts. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 15:30
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I finally got a counterflow chiller, what is a good (cheap) pump I can use with it?
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Jun 13, 2017 18:42
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Very happy to have found a nearby CO2 and other gas distributor. They'll fill my propane tanks for a little less than an exchange too and they're less than 10 minutes away. Now I just have to figure out how to set my regulator for the pressure I want.bewbies posted:I finally got a counterflow chiller, what is a good (cheap) pump I can use with it? There are some cheap 12v pumps floating around that are safe to use in higher temps, but they're for water heaters and aren't really for hot wort like that. I've only seen them used for recirculating and they don't seem to last like just buying a Chugger or March pump lasts. Also, you have to do the wiring yourself, so there's that too. Pumps for hot liquids aren't cheap unless you don't care if they last.
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Jun 13, 2017 21:04
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Jhet posted:Very happy to have found a nearby CO2 and other gas distributor. They'll fill my propane tanks for a little less than an exchange too and they're less than 10 minutes away. Now I just have to figure out how to set my regulator for the pressure I want. I have a https://www.northernbrewer.com/the-steelhead-2-pump that I got on black friday for 110 that is ok, it tends to cavitate quite a bit more than my brother's Chugger which is around the same price. Also you can't mount it easily, but you are also not putting 110 into a liquid environment. I personally would grab a chugger if the money was the same. The best thing you can get for a pump is one of https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q9EFUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Remote power switches as it makes operation a breeze. The next best thing you can do after the pump is start thinking about quick disconnects and high temp silicon hoses. Its expensive ($15 per male/female) but well worth your time and money. Tantric fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 01:27
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So it's done. 13 months in the making. I have been letting this Apple cider go for a while. 2 months in primary, 6 in secondary and 5 months in a bourbon barrel. I fermented it with jester king dregs. It's sour appley and lightly funky. I had to add 3/4 teaspoon of tannin in order to get the flavors to pop a bit more bit I'm happy with the finished product. Right now it's going into 375ml bellissima bottles.
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Jun 14, 2017 03:20
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thanks everyone, that's actually some really encouraging poo poo. I feel like I can tackle this now, was sort of second guessing myself due to all the other poo poo I was trying to accomplish/fix at the same time. breaking it down bit by bit is definitely how to proceed.Jo3sh posted:Also, this is bugging me: it's bugging me too. no fridge action involved, it was sitting out on the counter, ~78deg. I had done like 6 hours of cleaning, gassed it up and gave it a hail mary "hey, I got 1200 psi on my main reg right now, if I drop by a sliver I'll know something is wrong". it was just above 900 when I checked it the next morning. I'll check the lines and regs themselves with a soapy water solution, and then check each keg once I've ruled out the physical parts between my gas and my kegs. sooooooo much fun.
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Jun 14, 2017 06:59
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Try weighing your gas cylinder over time. To lose 200# on the gauge, you would have had to lose a LOT of gas. Put your bottle on a scale and write down how much it weighs, then look again tomorrow. You won't catch any small leaks this way, but if you're actually losing pounds of gas, you will at least know it. Also, I'll point out that the o-ring sizes I mentioned are for ball-locks. Pin-locks may be different, I just don't know.
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Jun 14, 2017 15:42
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've only been brewing a year and a bit, I have never heard of dry hopping right at the start of fermentation like that. I thought common wisdom was to wait until around Day 5 or so, I usually wait until 7-10 days in. Like I said I was told by a trusted source that the Conan yeast strain performs bio transformation, which is why a lot of heady topper recipes will double dry hop  apparently the bio transformation produces a very juicy hop character (which I've noticed when doing heady topper clone recipes on Conan!)Apparently London Ale III from Wyeast does the same as it's used with more hop forward beers. I'm still absolutely stumped as to how this has all occurred but regardless im going to keg hop this beer with about 4g/L of Brooklyn to see what happens and if it doesn't come good then I have no idea what's going on. My other instinct is that the water in using is from our rainwater tank and is super low in TDS, specifically sulphates meaning less prominent hop character. I need to try find some way to analyse the water so that I can adjust as I've yet to have a good beer come from this water. That or I'm just a bit rusty as I've not had much time t brew and am still adjusting to 3v
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Jun 14, 2017 16:52
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McSpergin posted:Like I said I was told by a trusted source that the Conan yeast strain performs bio transformation, which is why a lot of heady topper recipes will double dry hop It is really strange as to why you have zero aroma at all. The second dry-hop should have left plenty, even if the first was too early for the biotransformation to occur properly and not just blow off. It makes me wonder what would happen if you dissolved some Gypsum in some sterilized water and added it at packaging too. Rainwater though won't have much in the way of minerals at all. It doesn't come with a ton because most of the mineral content is left behind when it evaporates. Otherwise you'd have salt-water rain if you lived near the ocean. So you're probably way short on mineral profile which would only compound the loss of the aroma from going for biotransformation a little early. Shouldn't be too expensive to send in a sample and get it tested, but you're going to end up adding them all back, especially for hoppier styles. Your rainwater is probably closer to Pilsen, CZ (lovely soft water) than Burton, UK.
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Jun 14, 2017 17:03
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That's what I'm thinking because it's the first really Hoppy ale I've brewed at this place. The majority have been dark beers or not brewed here (the quad was brewed at my friend's Dad's farm on his 150L brewery). I may have to look at it because it was definitely malt forward
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Jun 14, 2017 17:22
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You probably lost some to dry hopping at the start of fermentation (you still get bio-transformations at the tail end), but you should still taste _some_ hops. Salts don't really do anything when it comes to hop aroma. Adding sulfates in would perhaps make your beer taste a bit drier, which used to be a must for IPA back when the west coast style was ascendant. It's likely either oxygen, bad hops or your palate.
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Jun 14, 2017 18:40
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Random thought I had earlier while filling a growler straight from my kegerator (I don't have a beer gun or some such device). If I fill the growler such that the beer foams a bit in the neck and spills out, and I immediately cap while the foam is topped off, can I assume that that foam has effectively purged the headspace of air? Always annoying to try and fill growlers from the kegerator but that would be a nice benefit if that's the case.
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Jun 15, 2017 03:06
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illcendiary posted:Random thought I had earlier while filling a growler straight from my kegerator (I don't have a beer gun or some such device). If I fill the growler such that the beer foams a bit in the neck and spills out, and I immediately cap while the foam is topped off, can I assume that that foam has effectively purged the headspace of air? Always annoying to try and fill growlers from the kegerator but that would be a nice benefit if that's the case. I don't know if this always works but I filled a lot of bottles with a party keg nozzle and they've kept for years.
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Jun 15, 2017 03:09
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illcendiary posted:Random thought I had earlier while filling a growler straight from my kegerator (I don't have a beer gun or some such device). If I fill the growler such that the beer foams a bit in the neck and spills out, and I immediately cap while the foam is topped off, can I assume that that foam has effectively purged the headspace of air? Always annoying to try and fill growlers from the kegerator but that would be a nice benefit if that's the case. no, you cannot assume that. Unless you're filled to the brim with liquid, there's still going to be some small amount of regular old atmosphere in the headspace, even if foam was gushing out there. You can purge with CO2 first to combat this - but honestly, why bother? You're going to drink the growler long before any oxygen in the head space could do anything to the beer.
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Jun 15, 2017 03:10
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