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At a quick stab, it's missing parking brake cables, new u-bolts, and the driveshaft coupler that are needed.
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May 29, 2017 15:50
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Krakkles posted:At a quick stab, it's missing parking brake cables, new u-bolts, and the driveshaft coupler that are needed. I got the coupler ordered. At least, I think. This is the one I ordered: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sd...CFdU7gQodxfMHVA
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May 30, 2017 01:20
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Juan Carlos III posted:I got the coupler ordered. At least, I think. This is the one I ordered: https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sd...CFdU7gQodxfMHVA
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May 30, 2017 01:25
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Replaced alternator and serpentine belt today in the XJ. Youtubers recommend re-tightening the belt after a few hundred miles after the new belt breaks in and stretches. Do modern belts really stretch anymore? And if I do it again, is there an easy way to loosen the tensioner to adjust without removing the coolant crossover and electric fan again?
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Jun 4, 2017 05:39
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Yeah I got a ratcheting wrench down in to tighten and loosen the belt tensioner bolt without having to remove the cooling fan. A socket and extension were good enough to tighten and loosen the actual tension bolt. Worst case though just pop out the electric cooling fan--once you know how the electrical connector works it's a minute or two to take out out. As far as tightening goes the factory service manual mentions nothing about retightening after running. It does however mention a specific tension value that you want to tighten it to and use a gauge to measure (Krikit 2: https://www.amazon.com/Gates-91132-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000CRDLZM/ ). They do make a distinction between tension for a brand new belt and tension for a used belt (anything run for 15 minutes or more it says). IIRC it's something like 140-160 ft/lbs for a used/run belt and 160-180 for new. I remember when I tensioned mine getting to that full brand new belt tension felt super taught and tight--you really have to crank down on the tensioner a lot longer than you expect. Haven't had any trouble with proper tensioning though and fixed a squeal when the AC was on too. So moral of the story is get a gauge and measure the tension if you aren't already.
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Jun 4, 2017 18:28
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I moved my kid into a regular booster seat for the first time. I don't like how he sits in the booster while off-road, and have been looking for a proper harness for him with no luck. Ive searched around and have found a ton of custom built welded in kids cages, but nothing that is just a simple 5 point harness I can use a booster with in the back seat. Are there other options Im missing?
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Jun 5, 2017 22:52
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I'm assuming he's too big for the internal harness in a harness-to-booster seat like a Britax Frontier or Pinnacle?
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Jun 5, 2017 23:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm assuming he's too big for the internal harness in a harness-to-booster seat like a Britax Frontier or Pinnacle? Yeah, shoulder wise hes fine on the internal straps, but the crotch adjustment is lacking in depth. Hes in a 2010 Graco 3 in 1 system almost identical to this: http://www.gracobaby.com/en-US/nautilus%3Csup%3E-trade%3B%3C-sup%3E-3-in-1-car-seat I worry that he might slip out somehow if he falls asleep, and would love to be able to find a 5 point system or even an entire replacement rear bench.
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Jun 6, 2017 00:14
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Jeep guys I'm new to all of this stuff I normally work on german cars.  My girlfriend has a 2003 Rubicon and started hearing a clacking noise in 2wd under load only. I thought it was wheel bearings at first but have tracked it down to the transfer case I think. I just went out to drain the fluid and refill it and very little came out into the drain pan. I pumped about 2 qts of ATF+4 back into it. How boned are we if out isn't just low t-case fluid? I've been seeing things on the internet about stretched chains and all, but this is the only forum I really trust.
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Jun 8, 2017 22:24
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Well, that transfer case is harder to find parts for than the standard NP231 that non-Rubicon Wranglers have. At least you can slap in a relatively cheap NP231 if you have wrecked your current transfer case. You'll lose the 4:1 low gear ratio, though.
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Jun 9, 2017 16:26
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While doing an oil change on my '16 JKU, I found a decently sized oil leak right between engine block and transmission. It seems to be coming from those rubber plugs and looks like clean engine oil. So I am guessing that implies the rear main seal on the engine. Has anyone seen this before? Scheduled for the dealer to look at next week. 
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Jun 9, 2017 18:06
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Tomorrow I am going to convert my XJ from drums to Discs. My drums have had it and I've had the parts for a while. Running around grabbing all the little parts that I even possibly think I'll need makes for a long list. e. well not happening this weekend as rock auto sent me 1 wheel stud instead of the 10 I ordered. e2. And now they're telling me the parts are out of stock. I need 9 610-234 dorman wheel studs, is that so much to ask for. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 19:46
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TotalLossBrain posted:While doing an oil change on my '16 JKU, I found a decently sized oil leak right between engine block and transmission. It seems to be coming from those rubber plugs and looks like clean engine oil. So I am guessing that implies the rear main seal on the engine. Yeah this happened on my '13. It was'n't coming from those plugs, but somewhere where the trans/engine mate. Warranty covered it. However I had to take it to 2 separate dealers as the first one "fixed it" (didn't). So double check it's stopped leaking a week after you get it back.
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Jun 9, 2017 19:52
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Veeb0rg posted:Tomorrow I am going to convert my XJ from drums to Discs. My drums have had it and I've had the parts for a while. Running around grabbing all the little parts that I even possibly think I'll need makes for a long list. Is there a specific guide you're working off of that you'd recommend? Planning on doing the same thing next time new drums are due on my Comanche. gently caress ever doing drums again and they suck anyway. Let us know how you make out!
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Jun 10, 2017 02:36
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Is there a specific guide you're working off of that you'd recommend? Planning on doing the same thing next time new drums are due on my Comanche. gently caress ever doing drums again and they suck anyway. Let us know how you make out! I took a bunch of pictures when I did mine a while back with the intention of doing a write-up (that I've been putting off for a couple years now) so I might finally get off my rear end and put something together this weekend.
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Jun 10, 2017 06:29
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Is there a specific guide you're working off of that you'd recommend? Planning on doing the same thing next time new drums are due on my Comanche. gently caress ever doing drums again and they suck anyway. Let us know how you make out! It depends on which rear your working with. The d35/8.25 is pretty straight forward, the 44 is a bit more complex. I have an 8.25 so its just as simple as changing out the backing plates, change the wheel studs to slightly longer ones and reassemble. Naxja has a few different writeups. The only thing that's holding me up at this point are the damned wheel studs. The local parts stores have none in stock and rockauto has cancelled my order twice. I'm probably going to have to hit the junkyard and pull the studs off a ZJ. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 10, 2017 08:20
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Can someone point me to a really good discussion of steering upgrades or talk me through it like I'm five?
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Jun 10, 2017 19:55
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Currie Correctlync is hard to beat on a TJ. Factory geometry but much stronger. I've been very happy with mine.
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Jun 12, 2017 02:33
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My CJ seems to only have 2 psi oil pressure at idle when it's at full operating temperature.  There's a light knock from the bottom end now, too. Pretty disappointed. It was never low on oil so I'm guessing maybe the pickup tube screen got clogged with gunk? Guess I'll find out when I tear it apart.
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Jun 14, 2017 08:07
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Prescription Combs posted:My CJ seems to only have 2 psi oil pressure at idle when it's at full operating temperature. Take your oil pump apart 
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Jun 16, 2017 02:53
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JK radiator update: Replaced the mud-filled OE radiator with a Flexalite aluminum one. Lasted about 5 months before springing a leak where the upper bank meets the passenger side tank. After a month, got a warranty replacement. That has now lasted 5 months before springing a leak where the upper two banks meet the passenger side tank. Returning for a refund, ordered a Mishimoto.
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Jun 16, 2017 08:13
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Ouch good luck. I put a Mishimoto all aluminum radiator in another car and have nothing but great things to say about it. Has held up fine in the last 5 months too. 
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Jun 16, 2017 18:31
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My XJ is having starting issues. Sometimes it'll take a few cranks to start. It gets a good crank so I don't think it's the battery. Maybe it's the fuel pump or something? I'm also occasionally getting weird shifting issues while driving; the car will occasionally buck hard when shifting gears, and sometimes RPMs will drop really low for a second when idle and on rare occasions will stall the car completely. I don't really have any money to work on or fix this right now (still paying off the last work I had done on it a month ago) so I'm stressing out hard here.  I just hope the thing keeps starting for now.
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Jun 16, 2017 21:47
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Has the crank position sensor ever been replaced? That's a super common failure as XJ's get up in age and it causes symptoms like you see. For me when my CPS was going it would take longer to start (cranked fine but like you saw it just wasn't firing over) and I'd get random stalls while idling at stop lights. It will eventually get worse until the car just won't start. The part isn't super expensive and is moderately annoying to change yourself (lots of wobble extensions help, and be super careful not to drop a bolt or the sensor in the bell housing): http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=43793&p=3&topicID=24211453 The only other slow start issue I had was the starter bolt not being tight and starting to move the starter away from the flywheel and not make good contact. That's super easy to just look under the Jeep and see the starter is tightly bolted to the bracket and making good contact with flywheel.
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Jun 16, 2017 21:58
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mod sassinator posted:Has the crank position sensor ever been replaced? That's a super common failure as XJ's get up in age and it causes symptoms like you see. For me when my CPS was going it would take longer to start (cranked fine but like you saw it just wasn't firing over) and I'd get random stalls while idling at stop lights. It will eventually get worse until the car just won't start. The part isn't super expensive and is moderately annoying to change yourself (lots of wobble extensions help, and be super careful not to drop a bolt or the sensor in the bell housing): http://greatlakesxj.activeboard.com/index.spark?aBID=43793&p=3&topicID=24211453 The CPS was actually what I just had replaced, so looks like I need to call up the shop and tell them to do it right this time.  Thankfully they do offer guarantees on their work so they won't charge me again for the same job so soon.What sucks is that it was working fine for a few days after I got it back from the shop and then, just like you said, the symptoms started coming back and are slowly getting worse.
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Jun 16, 2017 22:01
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Oh yeah I'd take it back for sure, a bad CPS could cause problems like you see. I've heard a lot of folks have had problems with the super cheap CPS sensors. I went with a NAPA one that cost a little more than the cheapo ones but has been working fine for 5+ years now. Some folks swear by only using dealer/factory CPS sensors.
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Jun 16, 2017 22:04
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mod sassinator posted:Oh yeah I'd take it back for sure, a bad CPS could cause problems like you see. I've heard a lot of folks have had problems with the super cheap CPS sensors. I went with a NAPA one that cost a little more than the cheapo ones but has been working fine for 5+ years now. Some folks swear by only using dealer/factory CPS sensors. Yeah I try not to cheap out on parts nowadays. I'll at least go midrange on stuff, and I'll feel confident I'm getting something that won't disintegrate or cast a hex on my engine or something. So far so good.
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Jun 16, 2017 22:07
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Mine has the hard start issue sometimes due to some fuel pump leak down issue. Priming the fuel pump before cranking by turning the key part way until you hear the pump stop is the test for that. When my CPS went bad it was all at once and the only symptom was a total no start condition with the dash reading "no bus". I've also had your other symptoms caused by a failing throttle position sensor.
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Jun 16, 2017 23:00
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Yeah for me my throttle position sensor starting to go out appeared as the idle RPM sometimes shooting way up past 1k RPM when I put the car in park or neutral. Normal driving was fine, but put it in park and woooosh it would rev right up. If I tapped the throttle when it was in that state it would drop back down to normal 500 RPM or so idle. Swapped in a new TPS and haven't had any problems in the last 3-4 months. That one is really easy to change and just takes a few minutes and hand tools (IIRC there's a torx bit that holds the TPS on the throttle). Make sure to pull the negative battery terminal and let it rest for 10 mins, then reconnect and restart after swapping in a new TPS so the ECU can relearn it too (forgot to do that and had all kinds of wonky idling after putting in the new sensor--oops).
mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 00:10
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mod sassinator posted:Yeah for me my throttle position sensor starting to go out appeared as the idle RPM sometimes shooting way up past 1k RPM when I put the car in park or neutral. Normal driving was fine, but put it in park and woooosh it would rev right up. If I tapped the throttle when it was in that state it would drop back down to normal 500 RPM or so idle. Swapped in a new TPS and haven't had any problems in the last 3-4 months. That one is really easy to change and just takes a few minutes and hand tools (IIRC there's a torx bit that holds the TPS on the throttle). Make sure to pull the negative battery terminal and let it rest for 10 mins, then reconnect and restart after swapping in a new TPS so the ECU can relearn it too (forgot to do that and had all kinds of wonky idling after putting in the new sensor--oops). Oh, I think I've actually disconnected and cleaned off my TPS before, which helped a lot. Might be time to just get a new one. I had the same problem with weird idling for a few drive cycles after I did that.
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Jun 17, 2017 00:18
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Stop replacing sensors willy nilly and diagnose them first. It costs less and you learn more. I have never had a bad CPS cause anything except complete failure to run, either.
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Jun 17, 2017 02:11
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kastein posted:Stop replacing sensors willy nilly and diagnose them first. It costs less and you learn more. Yeah, this is 100% correct. I've salvo'd the Sensor Cannon at my XJ before and while it's sorta nice to have all-new stuff (aka a bunch of cheap sensors you're not sure about), it never actually fixed a problem I was having... clean up your ground points first, and then start figuring out how to troubleshoot and eliminate each sensor. Like Ken said, you'll learn a lot more even if it sucks more. I wish I could say OH YA JUST REPLACE THE XYZ but it's never that easy. Since I'm a millenial I will give u the cheatcode fam code:
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Jun 17, 2017 03:10
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Sorry going to disagree on the CPS--I'd chuck a new one in there first. Sure you can try troubleshooting it but how are you going to go about that after ruling out something simple like a broken cable? It's a hall effect sensor so you'd need to either remove it and test it on your bench.. at which point why even put a 100k+ mile sensor back in when you can spend $30 and have piece of mind. Or you can do something nutty like pulling out all the spark plugs and manually cranking the engine while staring at the output of an oscilloscope on the CPS outputs (and by the way go buy an oscilloscope for $200+). At that point you have way more time and energy invested in diagnosing the CPS than just replacing it. TPS maybe is easier since it's a potentiometer and you could just probe the resistance as your turn it with a multimeter. IMHO not worth the trouble. If it was a $200 sensor though, yeah I'd agree rule everything else out first. And dunno what to say but new CPS fixed my random stalls, long starts, etc. 
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Jun 17, 2017 03:43
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rally posted:Mine has the hard start issue sometimes due to some fuel pump leak down issue. Priming the fuel pump before cranking by turning the key part way until you hear the pump stop is the test for that. When my CPS went bad it was all at once and the only symptom was a total no start condition with the dash reading "no bus". I've also had your other symptoms caused by a failing throttle position sensor. Seconding this. I used to have to turn the key to run-off-run again to get it to fully prime by the time I replaced my fuel pump. Its easy (and free) to diagnose and it seems to be a more common cause for a hard start (like kastein said, when my CPS went it just didn't start one day with no warning).
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Jun 17, 2017 04:38
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My cps went during a drive through car wash but same thing. Failed abruptly with no leading indication. It's also a pain in the loving rear end to swap out so look at other more probable causes first.
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Jun 17, 2017 08:09
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TotalLossBrain posted:While doing an oil change on my '16 JKU, I found a decently sized oil leak right between engine block and transmission. It seems to be coming from those rubber plugs and looks like clean engine oil. So I am guessing that implies the rear main seal on the engine. The dealer fixed it last week. They diagnosed it as cracked oil cooler/filter adapter. It's a thing I guess. According to the 'invoice' (warrantied), they had to take the intake manifold off to replace it. I was positively impressed that they took the time to clean the underside very decently. In fact, I had just gone to the store to buy some gloves and a whole gallon of purple degreaser (on sale, $6.99!), got under the Jeep, and found myself not having to do the job. I guess I should have checked before buying all that poo poo.
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Jun 18, 2017 06:14
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kastein posted:Stop replacing sensors willy nilly and diagnose them first. It costs less and you learn more. In a lot of 4.slows I have had them just completely poo poo the bed. But Chrysler uses a similar sensor in the v6 dodge ram vans. I have a few customers with them and they all exhibit those issues when a cps craps out.
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Jun 18, 2017 06:18
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TotalLossBrain posted:The dealer fixed it last week. They diagnosed it as cracked oil cooler/filter adapter. It's a thing I guess. According to the 'invoice' (warrantied), they had to take the intake manifold off to replace it. I was positively impressed that they took the time to clean the underside very decently. In fact, I had just gone to the store to buy some gloves and a whole gallon of purple degreaser (on sale, $6.99!), got under the Jeep, and found myself not having to do the job. I guess I should have checked before buying all that poo poo. Oh don't worry, as a Jeep owner you'll need plenty of degreaser eventually.
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Jun 18, 2017 19:32
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Prescription Combs fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 04:58
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DizzyBum posted:My XJ is having starting issues. Sometimes it'll take a few cranks to start. It gets a good crank so I don't think it's the battery. Maybe it's the fuel pump or something? Ignition coil maybe? My YJ started cranking longer and longer over the course of a few weeks before it finally coughed up its last start and let me drive until I shut the engine off, then that was it.
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Jun 20, 2017 04:15
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