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redgubbinz posted:What year? It might be that main relay problem that seems to happen to just about every Accord at some point, something about one of the (circuit) boards getting too hot I think? DJ Commie posted:Before you go full spectrum, why not consider replacing/resoldering the main relay. Its probably that or a fuel system problem. Have done that. Twice. Also did the distributor, IAC valve, and all in I've spent almost $2000 on repairs for this problem and it's going nowhere. Worst of all no mechanic can get it to consistently happen. Even when I tell them it needs to warm up and actually see some use before it does it. So they send me a bill and say "can't make it fail, sorry" and then not two weeks later it fails and leaves me stranded somewhere. It's incredibly frustrating and if I didn't live in an apartment building with nothing resembling a workshop or even a place I could park it and work on it under I would just start ripping poo poo out and replacing it myself, but gently caress it, at this rate I'm going to spend more than the cost of an actual new warrantied car in throwing money into this thing for no result. I've been driving 20+ year old cars for a while now and I think it's time I finally buy something modern and that I want.
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Jun 17, 2017 06:54
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Previa_fun posted:
i personally like the heat but the missus is a michigan thoroughbred and it's been 94 all week so she's been a puddle global warming is a myth guys
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Jun 17, 2017 06:55
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Kazinsal posted:Have done that. Twice. Also did the distributor, IAC valve, and all in I've spent almost $2000 on repairs for this problem and it's going nowhere. What year car? Have you done that board in the distributor (assuming we are even talking same generations) Edit OMG if it is a 20!year old Honda indeed and you are on AI please find chassis appropriate forums somewhere on interwebs and your exact problem has been detailed in 1000 posts down to pictures of step by step how to do it if you are new to tools. You have spent $2k? everdave fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 07:12
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everdave posted:What year car? Have you done that board in the distributor (assuming we are even talking same generations) '99. Complete replacement of the mentioned parts. Plus it's a BX7A transmission with 19 years on it so god knows when it's going to grenade itself. e: I know it's kind of stupid to be saying "gently caress it I'm buying a new car" but it is kind of tempting. It's a big financial decision but I have a well-paying job that's going nowhere but up (enough so that the company is sending me to conferences) so I do feel fairly comfortable in it. Kazinsal fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 07:13
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Kazinsal posted:'99. Complete replacement of the mentioned parts. Man I edited my post find a Honda specific forum and dear god don't spend any more money at random mechanics
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Jun 17, 2017 07:16
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everdave posted:Man I edited my post find a Honda specific forum and dear god don't spend any more money at random mechanics Yeah. There's a whole forum for this generation of Accord it seems. Hopefully they have experienced this before. I'm just getting kind of tired of throwing money at it and having the supposed experts say "yeah it's good now" then two weeks later oh wait it's not good. I've been fighting with this for five months now and it's getting to the point where I can't even go to the grocery store on my way home to work now because it's a crapshoot as to whether or not my car will start in the parking lot.
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Jun 17, 2017 07:20
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Kazinsal posted:Yeah. There's a whole forum for this generation of Accord it seems. Hopefully they have experienced this before. Of course nothing is 100% but if a Honda doesn't want to start after its hot or hot outside it is lovely American made solders (really) in a relay or computer or whatever. It boggles my mind that you have thrown 2k at a 99 accord but I am not judging! I am more familiar with previous gen but honestly go to a forum be nice and I have no doubt someone can pinpoint what you need. Been out of the Honda game a while but no hot start is lovely relay/computer somewhere
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Jun 17, 2017 07:25
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everdave posted:Of course nothing is 100% but if a Honda doesn't want to start after its hot or hot outside it is lovely American made solders (really) in a relay or computer or whatever. It boggles my mind that you have thrown 2k at a 99 accord but I am not judging! I am more familiar with previous gen but honestly go to a forum be nice and I have no doubt someone can pinpoint what you need. Been out of the Honda game a while but no hot start is lovely relay/computer somewhere Yeah, not going to lie, I'm kind of surprised I threw two grand at it myself. Guess I was just kind of hoping for some of that mystical reliable Honda magic. It probably sounds irresponsible as gently caress but I'm really kind of liking the look of the Toyobaru BRZ/86. Might wander down to the local Toyota dealership and see if I can arrange a test drive.
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Jun 17, 2017 07:28
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First fix yo car son! But no one gonna be mad if you pick up an 86
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Jun 17, 2017 07:30
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Yeah. I guess I need to get it sorted out well enough to consistently start before I can even attempt to convince a dealership it's worth an extra $1500 down in trade-in value. I've also never financed a vehicle before so that would be an interesting experience. Fixing this goddamn Accord would be a lot easier if it was throwing a CEL. Then I could check the V6 supplement for the 98-01 service manual and work from there. Unfortunately it just dies (almost as if it forgets how to maintain an idle) and refuses to start. ...actually thinking about it I wonder if this is at all similar to the issue I had in my '90 Beretta where the torque converter lockup solenoid died and the torque converter wouldn't unlock, and the car would stall when coming to a stop after being on the highway.
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Jun 17, 2017 07:47
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Kazinsal posted:Yeah. I guess I need to get it sorted out well enough to consistently start before I can even attempt to convince a dealership it's worth an extra $1500 down in trade-in value. Does it only happen at idle? When it fails to run at idle, does it start working if you crack the throttle open a tad? Could be the IACV (or TPS maybe) If you've spent 5 months diagnosing this, I'm sure you've thought of it, though! Just thought the "forgot how to idle" comment jumped out at me. It wouldn't be the torque converter, since it wouldn't matter if that was locked if the trans is in neutral/park
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Jun 17, 2017 07:51
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The torque converter lockup would still let it start in park or neutral, though. (dealt with that on a few friend's late 80s/early 90s GMs...) e;f;b by Raluek Kinda ironic I guess, my 01 Accord (same generation as your 99) would forget how to idle fairly regularly when coming off the highway. 4 cylinder with a manual though; it was always a lot of fun if I put the clutch in to downshift going around a turn and OH HEY WHERE'D MY POWER STEERING GO. Always started back up easy enough, but I'd have to feather the throttle to keep it idling for a moment after that.
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Jun 17, 2017 07:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Always started back up easy enough, but I'd have to feather the throttle to keep it idling for a moment after that. If it's like this, could it be a massive vacuum leak? What do your long term fuel trims look like (e: by "you" I guess I mean Kaz)
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Jun 17, 2017 07:53
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No clue in my case (I haven't had that car since 2010), but I know at least 4 cylinder Hondas get the infamous Honda bouncing idle with even a small vacuum leak. The V6s are a whole different ball game though.
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Jun 17, 2017 07:56
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Yeah, true enough about the torque converter thing. That was the case with my Beretta too, crapped out as soon as you put it in gear. As for the Accord, on cold starts, it's fine. Starts and idles around 1300 while it warms up as normal. Nothing wrong there. Warm starts, sometimes it's fine and idles at 650 rpm but sometimes it'll just tank and stall. If I catch it before it stalls and then hold the throttle at about 2000 rpm for two or three minutes then slooooowly let it drop down to idle (around 650 rpm) it'll be fine. Once it gets to that point of idling at 650 rpm in park or neutral it's fine for the rest of the drive. Fuel economy I get around 17-18 mpg, about 80% city 20% highway. That seems kind of low for a late 90s Honda V6 though, now that I think about it. It was a pain in the dick to track down the V6 part of the service manual for this car and unfortunately it hasn't really been of any help (other than to confirm my suspicion that the gear ratios on the autobox are horrendous).
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Jun 17, 2017 08:00
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What is the best front loading washer and dryer for a budget of $1000 total? I know you guys are obsessed with these things
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Jun 17, 2017 08:00
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Kazinsal posted:Yeah, true enough about the torque converter thing. That was the case with my Beretta too, crapped out as soon as you put it in gear. To be honest, my 4 cylinder Accord only did about 18-20 city, sometimes up to 25 mixed (and it was so slow... so loving slow, I'm pretty sure the Saturn I have now would easily outrun it). It was great on road trips though - generally 33-35 on a 100% highway tank. What happens if you try to hold it at, say, 1000?
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Jun 17, 2017 08:12
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It's fine at whatever I hold it at but if I don't give it several minutes of gas and then slowly let the throttle off until it's at 650 (which is really quite difficult I might add) it'll croak. I appreciate all the help guys. Makes me feel better knowing that there's some folks willing to help a stranger on some dead gay comedy forums with his frustrating and expensive car problems.
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Jun 17, 2017 08:28
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:
Fuuuuuuck... I got an email from my thermostat last night telling me that the AC was doing a poo poo job. Still hauled it down to 70* now, but it took too long. 18 year old system, so I'm looking at replacing both. What is yours going to cost?
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Jun 17, 2017 10:48
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EVERYWHERE 
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Rhyno posted:Long story short
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Jun 17, 2017 11:33
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:I was gonna use Twelve Years A [:|::] but decided it was way too obscure We have all lost the jumper and had to push the pins together on a old HDD just to bodge a PC together.
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Jun 17, 2017 11:52
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:What is the best front loading washer and dryer for a budget of $1000 total? I know you guys are obsessed with these things I feel like DIY says Maytag or Speedqueen but they are $1k each but last forever... find a lightly used one orrrr a pre-damaged from somewhere.
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Jun 17, 2017 11:53
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:What is the best front loading washer and dryer for a budget of $1000 total? I know you guys are obsessed with these things Anything other than samsung
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Jun 17, 2017 12:16
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Anphear posted:I feel like DIY says Maytag or Speedqueen but they are $1k each but last forever... find a lightly used one orrrr a pre-damaged from somewhere. Maytag is Whirlpool, which is some other megacorp. That said, find a pre-damaged one! I am using a Maytag Nautilus top-load that has a terrible reputation because it's got a huge motor integrated into the bottom of the basket to make it direct-drive. Plus, it spins at a really high rate, so the bearing at the bottom takes a poo poo and nobody wants to touch it. Mom was quoted $800 for the repair. She got a new one, I took the old one and put a $60 bearing rebuild kit in it and it's been working fine for a couple years. At the same time, I also bought a matching Maytag dryer from craigslist that was broken. Got it for $50, a nice, big dryer with steam and all that jazz. Turns out the guy that had it never used the lint filter and this was another weirdo design that pulled air through the unit instead of blowing it in, so lint build-up burned up some stuff. But again, a few cheap parts and it's been working great. A lot of appliances are really simple and modular to repair, people are just too afraid to look inside when something breaks. Then there's my stupid microwave door handle that has parts not available. 
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Jun 17, 2017 12:40
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Skipped the last 2 pages to post:I am in the queue at Santa pod to drag race my panda.
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Jun 17, 2017 13:04
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I have LG front loaders and my anecdotal evidence is that they've probably run 1500 cycles with no issues (other than when my wife's drat cat chewed a hole in the washer drain hose).
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Jun 17, 2017 13:06
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cakesmith handyman posted:Skipped the last 2 pages to post:I am in the queue at Santa pod to drag race my panda. 
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Jun 17, 2017 13:11
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In front of me, slammed seat leon. Besides, Talbot with slicks. Super charged mini behind me. Masarati ghibli behind him. I have received dirty looks for the googly eyes
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Jun 17, 2017 13:30
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Ran, didn't die, 19.whatever E:so much fun, going again
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Jun 17, 2017 14:07
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cakesmith handyman posted:Skipped the last 2 pages to post:I am in the queue at Santa pod to drag race my panda. I read this wrong at first and thought you said you were going Pod Racing. You guys wanna go pod racin'?
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Jun 17, 2017 14:23
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InitialDave posted:If you've had a lot of hassle with your cars up to now, is it worth biting the bullet and financing something like a Focus RS? It'd probably hit all the points you want, and a new car massively cuts down on the headache factor. Yes, it's more money, but let's say it means borrowing $10k over your budget limit. But it looks like the "full" warranty is 3 years, and the drivetrain and corrosion stuff is 5 years. That's $2k a year to be covered for poo poo that will stop you getting to work. How much have your existing cars cost you per year in parts/labour/inconvenience? I have seriously thought about the RS. I have all my expenses for my cars recorded, I just need to run totals to see how much money I have pissed away. I kind of didn't want to do that for fear of seeing just how bad it has gotten.
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Jun 17, 2017 14:31
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ExplodingSims posted:I read this wrong at first and thought you said you were going Pod Racing. No. Piece of shits broken again. :<
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Jun 17, 2017 15:10
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My laptop died again, (Dell vostro 1400). I was watching a le mans stream while my desktop was stuffing around with a windows update and the screen just started flickering and then it locked up. It first died (onboard GPU) over easter this year. I feel like my little buddy has died. I've had it nearly 10 years and it's been with me everywhere. I bought it when I started my first business in HVAC and lugged it around daily for service manual referencing. It was my only link to the outside world when I went sadbrains, mute and lived in a storeroom. Anyone know how to fix it proper? When the display died over easter I reflowed it in an oven but that only gave it another couple of months. I was looking at replacement used/refurbished mainboards but they only seem to be in the US and don't ship for under $200. I don't want another laptop, I want my little buddy back I haven't been impressed with any new cheapies anyway, this one did everything I wanted and was good for about 10 years. The woman here bought a $500 lenovo edge e520 a few years ago and I still think my dell vostro 1400 was better. E: When I split with the woman and move out I doubt I'll take or have room for the lian li tower and 24" samsung monitor desktop system, and I hate smart phones, so a laptop is probably going to be my only connection to the outside world. What should I do? Any way to repair it properly? Any good ones that I should look out for s/h for ~$200? Budget is tight due to moving and spending everything on cars at the moment. Would obviously prefer to repair my buddy but only if it was a long term guaranteed repair. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 15:28
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Seminal Flu posted:Fuuuuuuck... I got an email from my thermostat last night telling me that the AC was doing a poo poo job. Still hauled it down to 70* now, but it took too long. It's gonna be about $7500 for the new system plus install then we get about a grand in rebates and tax things back Check the original date on the old one:  It was kind of old
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Jun 17, 2017 15:34
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Fo3 posted:My laptop died again, (Dell vostro 1400). I was watching a le mans stream while my desktop was stuffing around with a windows update and the screen just started flickering and then it locked up. It's 10 years old. Let the old man die in dignity.
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Jun 17, 2017 15:35
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It did everything I wanted though. My cars are older...
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Jun 17, 2017 15:37
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Last week I shot a longbow, this week I took a slow car drag racing. Now I'm sitting track side stunning beer with my dad and brothers. I just know this is going to be one of those memories :3
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Jun 17, 2017 15:42
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FAT32 SHAMER posted:It's gonna be about $7500 for the new system plus install then we get about a grand in rebates and tax things back Impressive. My mom's house was still on its original 1982 heat pumps until recently. One finally died maybe three years ago, the other maybe a year ago.
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Jun 17, 2017 16:04
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It wasn't even dead yet, we just wanted something that didn't put $0.40/$1.00 out the chimney
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Jun 17, 2017 16:10
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Front load washer chat... Typically it goes in order of preference..European makes followed by North American and then Korean. Note makes does not necessarily = country of origin. I just did a lot of research on this myself and ended up with an Electrolux set but I think that would be over your budget. You might be able to get a deal on the entry level set to make it close though? This is their basic full size washer. Speaking to my appliance repair guy (he had to get me a part for something) he rates Miele, Bosch and Electrolux pretty close in terms of reliability in the real world. North Americans brands decent, but can be hit and miss, and finds the Koreans (LG, Samsung) pretty much on par for reliability but LGs parts availability and warranty program is absolutely atrocious, easily the worst in the market. Kenmores are typically re-badged Korean units. They go so far now as to not even want to work on LGs and tells people that call them with an LG issue just to call the 1-800 LG hotline and arrange to troubleshoot and repair through it. If I had a budget of $1K, I'd probably go to my local costco and see if they had in Whirlpools or Maytags in stock you could get within budget. There are other niche brands like but leaving those out completely based on $$$. Note, if you are talking about second floor installs and extra large capacity are important to you, that changes the dynamic around a bit.
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