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In my experience, gunk works for a while; when I bought my v70 I replaced pads and rotors all around. I ordered cheapo parts from what I assume is a euro equivalent to rockauto. Turns out the too-cheap front pads came without anti-squeal shims on the back, and were really noisy. I gunked them up good which kept them quiet for two years, which translates to maybe 20 000km the way I drive. Now they're starting to squeak a little again, so I might re-gunk, or just slap some new and slightly better pads on even if the current ones still have plenty of meat left - these things aren't expensive. Cleaning and lubing the slide bolts is also a good idea to do while you're in there, assuming you have such things on your car. I also park outside and drive infrequently enough that I sometimes have a bit of rust on the rotors, which makes a weird noise for the first few decelerations until the rust has worn off, but it's more of a rumble than a squeal. Question for those who might know: I have to do something about my parking brake. It has started to make noise while driving on one side, but it doesn't get noticeably warm so it can't be rubbing in a bad way. The brake effect was barely acceptable at the last annual safety inspection, and the inspector man said it's a good idea to replace the cable since it gets stretchy or something. Any thoughts on the validity of this, and is it in any way a difficult job I should be dreading? Could a worn cable cause rubbing from a parking brake that doesn't disengage properly, or do I need to replace brake shoes and fiddly bits in there too/instead?
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May 2, 2017 22:01
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The parking brakes are notorious for shoe failure, get in there and replace everything. And the trick for the springs is to zip tie them compressed, install them, and then cut the zip tie.
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May 3, 2017 00:05
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I took the 740 to a mechanic because I don't have a place to work on it and the rear drivers side brake was making noise and after he fixed the problem he was all mad like WHO DID THIS and it was me
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May 3, 2017 01:02
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LloydDobler posted:The parking brakes are notorious for shoe failure, get in there and replace everything. And the trick for the springs is to zip tie them compressed, install them, and then cut the zip tie. Makes sense. I ordered new shoes back when I did pads and rotors but couldn't manage to mount them, they seemed too big somehow so the old worn ones had to stay in there. I'll try again with the zip tie trick and if that doesn't work I'll get some shoes that actually fit. If that doesn't entirely fix the braking power issue I'll look into the cable too I guess.
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May 3, 2017 07:33
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The zip ties on the springs worked a treat, made the job easy. It was one of those little retainer springs that had failed btw, the old brake shoes were quite worn though. Now I have new shoes (the ones I ordered years ago) and a meaningful amount of emergency brake force.
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May 13, 2017 16:15
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Yeah I saw that trick on swedespeed shortly after I fought with the loving things for like an hour. You can't push and twist at the same time, everything moves.
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May 13, 2017 17:37
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I'll just leave this here. http://jalopnik.com/volvo-set-a-nurburgring-record-lap-last-year-and-didnt-1795539763
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May 26, 2017 19:42
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Me and invalido need to change a front wheel bearing on our dads 2010 V50 2.0D (for which we sort of have joint service responsibility). The bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle. How horrible should we expect it to be to press it out and get a new bearing in? I do have access to one of those screw-type wheel bearing puller tools which I have successfully used on a couple other cars (one of them a -99 Volvo V40), but I'm not quite sold on that kind of tool in general. Should we even make an attempt using that, or should we pull the steering knuckle and find someone with a proper hydraulic press to do the job?
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May 29, 2017 15:53
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Is every ecu tune as big a pita as yours was Lloyd? Or was that just a product of the trans change? Can they use different maps via suspension setting?
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Jun 4, 2017 21:46
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My issues were with the choice of tuner. ARD is pretty much disgraced now. Go with Hilton and it will be painless and perfect. I do believe he can map the tune to the comfort/sport/advanced buttons if you want him to.
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Jun 5, 2017 06:14
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LloydDobler posted:My issues were with the choice of tuner. ARD is pretty much disgraced now. Go with Hilton and it will be painless and perfect. I do believe he can map the tune to the comfort/sport/advanced buttons if you want him to. drat, what's the deal with ARDs tunes?
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Jun 5, 2017 06:20
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ME7 is vastly more complicated than M4.3 and M4.4 but he programs it the same, so about half the time it craps out and throws codes, overboosts, locks out the immobilizer, goes into limp mode, etc etc. When that happens he just says the car is poorly maintained so it's not his fault. When things really started to get bad he instituted a no refund policy because he was losing his rear end. He tried to do a 4" MAF tune on M4.4 for a friend of mine and after months of trying he said "welp I can't do it, M4.4 makes it impossible". So my friend asked for his money back and he had the balls to say no and kept the money. Of course my personal horror story was how I bought a manual swap tune and he locked out my immobilizer and refused to investigate, I had to spend a ton of money and time diagnosing my car myself. I bought VIDA and a bunch of parts to swap, and in the end had my car towed to a Volvo shop who fixed it in 3 hours. There was nothing wrong with the car at all, 100% his fault. He didn't even apologize, let alone offer me anything in consideration of what he cost me. So my $600 manual swap tune ended up costing me nearly $2000 when all was said and done. Even though he then got it running it would throw an overboost code and go into limp mode every 2 weeks. I got so frustrated with him that after 18 months I bought a manual ECU and associated modules and converted my car that way. Then tuned it with another tuner. Lots of people still swear by him but TONS have had problems. Not so with IPD, Hilton, Contrast, or even JZW who people are starting to like less and less. Which really is telling. IPD has virtually zero complaints yet according to ARD most of the Volvo community drive piece of poo poo un-tuneable cars.
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Jun 5, 2017 18:15
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Noted, guess I won't be going to ARD for another tune on the C70, in fact a lot of what you said makes me believe the car already has an ARD tune (I've seen it overboost a few times, and it would go into limp-mode occasionally), possibly what led to it melting a valve under fairly normal driving conditions... Thanks for the heads up, I'll be talking to Hilton for the ECU work when I replace the engine this summer. Kinda a shame, I had a really good experience dealing with ARD last year when I bought a used M56 from them for the 855. Oh well, I'd rather have a tune I can trust. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 18:26
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I've been interested in getting a tune for my 850 from ARD for a while now, but hesitated since I'd heard that his reputation had gone sour, but didn't know the details - good to know. Looks like Hilton doesn't work with the older models though, unfortunately.
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Jun 6, 2017 02:49
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The best tuner for your car is VA5T tuning, formerly Beust. I know Aaron personally and he's a sharp dude. He came out to the drag strip for the first time a week ago with his personal car and broke an axle on launch so we didn't even get to see how fast it was. http://vasttuning.com/
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Jun 6, 2017 05:54
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LloydDobler posted:The best tuner for your car is VA5T tuning, formerly Beust. I know Aaron personally and he's a sharp dude. He came out to the drag strip for the first time a week ago with his personal car and broke an axle on launch so we didn't even get to see how fast it was. It's interesting comparing their stages to each other: Hilton posted:Stage 1 Requirements: VA5T posted:Stage 0 side note: Are the Re-volv oil cooler, Delrin SubFrame, and Powerflex LCA bushings worth it as ~$500 worth of drop in upgrades? toplitzin fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jun 6, 2017 |
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Jun 6, 2017 14:15
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toplitzin posted:It's interesting comparing their stages to each other: Pretty different cars they're tuning though. Vast is all pre-99, where Hilton is 99-present. toplitzin posted:Are the Re-volv oil cooler, Delrin SubFrame, and Powerflex LCA bushings worth it as ~$500 worth of drop in upgrades? As far as I know the delrin subframe bushings are a must, and the poly bushings are worth it if you lube them regularly, otherwise they squeak and wear out. I've heard nothing about upgraded oil coolers, except some people put the XC90 T6 oil cooler on the 5 cylinder as it's a direct bolt on but bigger. Oil cooling really isn't a huge problem on these cars so I'd think that's a waste of money. But I've done zero research outside of that.
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Jun 7, 2017 07:32
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Ah, I recognize that Vast email from his old thread on the volvospeed forums. But yeah, it seems 850s can crank out some insane numbers when tuned up, and it's likely easier to coerce the ECUs into letting you do it. Especially if you have two engines installed 
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Jun 9, 2017 02:34
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My wife primarily drives our '00 S40 and she was complaining about some pretty bad vibrations in the cabin while she was driving. I didn't bother to check the lower engine mounts last year after we got it like an idiot and this is the result: 
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Jun 9, 2017 03:56
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Hey everyone, I might be a Volvo C30 Polestar owner pretty soon. I tried doing a quick Google search, but nothing came up. Can anyone tell me what the difference between an R-Design and a Polestar is and which one would be preferable? This is the car I'm currently looking at getting.
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Jun 12, 2017 23:41
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Well for the most part R-design is an appearance package since they discontinued the R in 07. However, Polestar was a separate tuning company that developed racing Volvos and started offering factory warrantied tunes for Volvos, installed at Volvo dealers. Eventually Volvo bought Polestar and it became the official top end Volvo. That happened sometime around 2014. So from 2015-onward, instead of a V60R, it's a V60 Polestar. They are really loving fast. This car ran 13.4 here at 5800 ft altitude. that's low 12's at sea level. It's not stock though, it's tuned beyond the polestar tune and has an aftermarket intake on it. Otherwise stock as far as I know. So based on the age, that car looks like an R design with a Polestar tune. Volvo tried to make sure you could not buy that polestar badge on the back, it only came with the tune. Also if it is officially polestar tuned, any Volvo dealer can check and find out based either on the VIN or on a scan of the car. So there's no "difference", you can get a polestar tune on any 08-up turbo Volvo, and some Volvos have the R-design package. Looks like a pretty drat nice little car. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 07:26
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That is one good looking Volvo. Always liked the shape of the V60's.
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Jun 13, 2017 09:07
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LloydDobler posted:Well for the most part R-design is an appearance package since they discontinued the R in 07. However, Polestar was a separate tuning company that developed racing Volvos and started offering factory warrantied tunes for Volvos, installed at Volvo dealers. Eventually Volvo bought Polestar and it became the official top end Volvo. That happened sometime around 2014. So from 2015-onward, instead of a V60R, it's a V60 Polestar. They are really loving fast. This car ran 13.4 here at 5800 ft altitude. that's low 12's at sea level. It's not stock though, it's tuned beyond the polestar tune and has an aftermarket intake on it. Otherwise stock as far as I know. Thanks! I actually think I might have to pass on this one. For some reason I was 100% sure it was a manual. Turns out it's an Automatic which is fine, but not what I wanted. I picked up a 228i a couple months ago and it's an auto. It's fast, but it's just...so boring. Maybe I'll get over it, but I think I'd be way happier in a standard C30.
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Jun 13, 2017 15:32
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i have a rotational squeaking coming from the engine compartment of the 1990 760 turbo that only happens while stopped at a stoplight after driving for a little; it doesn't happen if i pull in and park to look at it or any other situation other than being stopped at a stop light. i can jump up and down on it, bounce it all over the place and can't reproduce it. it is driving me insane and i cannot figure it out. anyone else encountered this?
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Jun 13, 2017 15:44
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Have a friend drive it and hold the brakes vs. putting it in park and see if you can check under the hood that way? The engine is loaded slightly differently maybe when in park vs. drive. 
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Jun 13, 2017 16:35
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i tried holding the brakes while in the parking lot after gunning it driving it around etc and it won't do it. it literally only happens at stoplights and at one point in a drive through.
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Jun 13, 2017 17:14
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So my 1970 164 will not idle for poo poo when it gets warm. First 5 minutes or so of driving are great, but by the time I've gone a few miles and things are properly hot under the hood, it's barely able to keep an idle at a stoplight and has in fact died a few times trying to pull away from a stop. Even in Park it just sits and shakes and misfires: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cefsmn98XPg I have no familiarity or special love for dual Strombergs, should I just say gently caress it and find one of the Weber setups? I've set the idle adjustment screws to the manual specs. I attempted to re-install the temperature compensators that the PO removed ("It runs better without them") but found that one of the adjusting nuts is missing... and in fact it looks like the post it threads onto is broken off (see http://www.grampianstags.net/TCs.htm for what I'm talking about). Any thoughts? I know at least one person in this thread has a B30 engine. Edit: poo poo I keep forgetting to check the coil, I think O'Reillys said they could get one for like $30 so I may just swap it to be safe. Is there a procedure to check if the coil is good? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 19:45
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Pham Nuwen posted:
I don't know anything about 164's or their coil specs but yeah, you can check the internal resistance of the coil. I should mention I had a bad coil that read as fine when cold, but one the engine bay was up to temp it was poo poo.
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Jun 17, 2017 17:52
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Blitter posted:I don't know anything about 164's or their coil specs but yeah, you can check the internal resistance of the coil. I should mention I had a bad coil that read as fine when cold, but one the engine bay was up to temp it was poo poo. read as 5 ohms across the input terminals... manual said .9? In any case the O'Reilly's has a sale on so I ordered in a replacement for $12.
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Jun 17, 2017 19:22
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ionn posted:Me and invalido need to change a front wheel bearing on our dads 2010 V50 2.0D (for which we sort of have joint service responsibility). The bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle. How horrible should we expect it to be to press it out and get a new bearing in? Seeing as how this is from 3 weeks ago, I'm assuming you're already done with this, but I just gave up and had my Volvo dealer deal (heh) with this. loving idiotic design.
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Jun 18, 2017 21:28
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Seeing as how this is from 3 weeks ago, I'm assuming you're already done with this, but I just gave up and had my Volvo dealer deal (heh) with this. loving idiotic design. Yeah, it got sent in to a mechanic. Didn't want to take it apart (balljoints and all) only to realize we can't change the bearing. They also had a look at the barely working AC, and found a leak in the condenser (not surprising since it takes the hit of things flying through the air). Said they wanted like $1500 to fix it, which sounds horribly expensive. The part can be found for $120, installing it should just be a couple hours of dismantling plastic to get to it (it's supposedly just screw fittings on it), and a regular AC shop should be able to refill it properly for not that much money. Has anyone here had any experience changing the condenser on a V50?
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Jun 22, 2017 14:11
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FML. Rear main seal is leaking like a sieve on my 99 Volvo V70Xc I did the engine swap on about 6K miles ago and I replaced all the seals then so either I screwed up or the brand new seal failed. Put some Bar's leak main seal stuff in it as a hail Mary. I ain't dropping that engine / trans again. Of course this happens the day after I sell my Crown Vic to a young local cop. After all, why not get rid of the most dependable, least leaky, car I have (except for the one I have my college age daughter in)? I'm really thinking about thinning the herd another car and the only thing about this one in favor of keeping it is so much of it has already been addressed since I purchased it. Say some prayers for the leak stop. Any other hints welcome. Anyone know what pick a parts around Memphis are paying for running cars?
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Jun 24, 2017 23:09
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ionn posted:Yeah, it got sent in to a mechanic. Didn't want to take it apart (balljoints and all) only to realize we can't change the bearing. Didn't change the condenser but it's pretty easy to get to. Hard to see how it really attaches, and it looks like there might be a bunch of the plastic poo poo in the way, but once you figure it out it oughta go pretty fast. See my V50 thread for some pics: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3814309 EvellSnoats posted:FML. Rear main seal is leaking like a sieve on my 99 Volvo V70Xc I did the engine swap on about 6K miles ago and I replaced all the seals then so either I screwed up or the brand new seal failed. Did you put that thread sealer goop on the flex plate bolts? They drilled the bolt holes in the end of the crank all the way through. It's very common to overlook that one and it simulates a RMS leak. Sorry to say the only fix is to drop it again. Hope the goop works but it probably won't. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 07:00
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LloydDobler posted:Didn't change the condenser but it's pretty easy to get to. Hard to see how it really attaches, and it looks like there might be a bunch of the plastic poo poo in the way, but once you figure it out it oughta go pretty fast. See my V50 thread for some pics: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3814309 Oh, I somehow missed that thread entirely. Good stuff. From what you're saying and what I've seen, removing the front bumper and all the plastic crap shouldn't be a big deal, given some patience. It helps a lot that the car is just 7 years old and not the usual (for me) 20-25, so plastic clips can actually be removed in one piece. It seems there are half a dozen different versions of the condenser with different inlet and outlet diameters though, so we have to start out by going in far enough to measure it up and try to find the right one.
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Jun 25, 2017 07:27
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Looking at buying a v60 for the wife. Likely a 2015 or 2016 premier with the 4cyl turbo with 8 speed automatic. Anything in particular I should be wary of?
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Jul 2, 2017 20:11
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Are Volvos really this unreliable? I'm thinking of getting one for my next car, but it seems like every other post in this thread is about another problem that someone has encountered. Doesn't seem worth it to me.
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Jul 2, 2017 21:58
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Keep in mind many of the vehicles in this thread are old. Mine's 21 years old now, and needs a random unusual part replaced every so often. It hasn't really broken down on me, though.
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Jul 2, 2017 22:11
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Vehicle-specific threads aren't about things going well; there are very few people who post about how their car is going great and has no problems. So you're getting a skewed view because people are coming here for help, rather than to brag. Every car-specific thread is a litany of problems and complaints. That said, Volvo is a luxury brand and with that comes added complexity and an increased potential for issues.
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Jul 2, 2017 23:27
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Saddamnit posted:Are Volvos really this unreliable? I'm thinking of getting one for my next car, but it seems like every other post in this thread is about another problem that someone has encountered. Doesn't seem worth it to me. Nah, there's a few standouts that should maybe be avoided (I hear the xc90 with the transverse v8 had trans issues, but even those I see with 200k+ miles), but overall they're good cars with an enthusiast base, and well documented issues. As was said, most of the Volvos here have years and miles on them.
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Jul 3, 2017 00:22
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every Volvo I've posted about for help with is over 20 years old; the 760 I am currently tinkering with is 27 years old
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Jul 3, 2017 04:54
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