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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


The garden poles are more flexible than I expected, I'll probably reinforce them later. Everything is held together with cable ties so repairs and replacements should be easy.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Vulture Culture posted:

Any tips for locating a drywell on my property? My town doesn't require it to be on the survey so no one has any real idea where it is. My original plan was to grab a 4' Bully soil probe and follow the greywater line from where it exits the garage, but I'm not sure that jamming a metal-tipped thing at a PVC pipe is necessarily the best idea.

Got a pipe snake? You could stick it down a knockout until you hit the end, then count off the feet.

And you don't jam that hard.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
In the process of gutting and refinishing my basement I found some extensive termite damage --a 4ft section of rim joist that needs to be replaced and two joists that need sistering.

I panicked and wrote a $1300 check for spraying and Sentricon baiting for a year, with some kind of warranty against further damage and a $299 yearly renewal fee.

Now I've made the mistake of researching AFTER signing my money away. Can anyone calm my buyers remorse and just tell me that an experienced tech can do a better job than I could winging it with industrial chemicals I found on Amazon?

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Is a malfunctioning attic fan something to be concerned about? It's old and when the thermometer triggers it every few moments it tries to spin up but just makes a buzzing noise instead. My attic access is insanely treacherous so I'll only go back up there again if it seems like the house might burn down. Unfortunately it's not on a dedicated circuit.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Buca di Bepis posted:

Is a malfunctioning attic fan something to be concerned about? It's old and when the thermometer triggers it every few moments it tries to spin up but just makes a buzzing noise instead. My attic access is insanely treacherous so I'll only go back up there again if it seems like the house might burn down. Unfortunately it's not on a dedicated circuit.

A motor that's trying to start but fails is generating heat instead of motion. Heat is one of the components of fire.

baquerd
Jul 2, 2007

by FactsAreUseless

eddiewalker posted:

Can anyone calm my buyers remorse and just tell me that an experienced tech can do a better job than I could winging it with industrial chemicals I found on Amazon?

Nope. If you can figure out who knows their poo poo then you know enough to do the job.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

baquerd posted:

Nope. If you can figure out who knows their poo poo then you know enough to do the job.

drat. At least the stuff on DoYourOwnPestControl is fairly expensive, so it's not a total sunk cost.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

H110Hawk posted:

A motor that's trying to start but fails is generating heat instead of motion. Heat is one of the components of fire.

Good point. I wouldn't have been able to sleep without doing something about it so I bit the bullet, figured out a safe-ish way to get into the attic, and capped the wires in the junction box for the attic fan.

At some point I'll get around to repositioning the entry to the attic. It's located directly above split staircases going up and down so it's impossible to set a ladder directly on it.

jarito
Aug 26, 2003

Biscuit Hider
Quick deck question. We just bought a house in San Antonio, TX and it has an upstairs deck, show below.




It's in okay shape except for a board that needs replacing due to water damage, but it could really use a clean / reseal and maybe some sanding. I've done some looking and the process seems pretty straight forward, but most processes seem to require a lot of water and the like. As there is a roof under the boards, I'm not sure it is a good idea to wash down & put cleaner on the boards. Should I care? Is there a better way to go about it?

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

So my mum is too short to access the top shelves in the kitchen, and I want to come up with a method where she can easily, that isn't a step ladder.

Is there such a thing as a reverse version of the cake mixer hinges?

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Pull-down cabinet racks.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

That's exactly what I want thanks

Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

I feel like I should go install those all over my ex-wife's house, now that our separation has left the top third of her kitchen inaccessible.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


My kitchen has a piece of board in it that's as far as I can tell untested and kinda gross, and I don't like resting anything on it directly. What's the cheapest option to fix it that doesn't involve ripping it out? I can't make large scale changes like those.

NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

Pollyanna posted:

My kitchen has a piece of board in it that's as far as I can tell untested and kinda gross, and I don't like resting anything on it directly. What's the cheapest option to fix it that doesn't involve ripping it out? I can't make large scale changes like those.

Sand it back and cover it in epoxy?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

jarito posted:

Quick deck question. We just bought a house in San Antonio, TX and it has an upstairs deck, show below.




It's in okay shape except for a board that needs replacing due to water damage, but it could really use a clean / reseal and maybe some sanding. I've done some looking and the process seems pretty straight forward, but most processes seem to require a lot of water and the like. As there is a roof under the boards, I'm not sure it is a good idea to wash down & put cleaner on the boards. Should I care? Is there a better way to go about it?

Maybe cover the roof with a tarp while washing it? Doing the same thing soon except it's on ground level so no roof to worry about. Using a linseed and pine tar oil mix that I've tinted myself to a red-brown color. But I think most normal people just buy some product straight from the shop.

jarito
Aug 26, 2003

Biscuit Hider

His Divine Shadow posted:

Maybe cover the roof with a tarp while washing it? Doing the same thing soon except it's on ground level so no roof to worry about. Using a linseed and pine tar oil mix that I've tinted myself to a red-brown color. But I think most normal people just buy some product straight from the shop.

The upstairs deck is build on top of the downstairs deck. Here's a wider shot:



So I can't get in between the deck and whatever is under it. Since the deck is covered, I don't know what sort of plans they made to let it drain if it got wet.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Do you own a shotgun

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



I'm trying to think this thru, apologies if there is an HVAC thread

My AC unit is freezing up outside. If I turn it off but leave the fan running, it defrosts the evap coil and water flows freely from the drain pipe. It'll freeze up again once the AC is back on.

Freon levels were correct as of a couple months ago. There are 4 return air vents in the house (18x30 and four 12x12). Is there another filter somewhere at the unit? I can't find one.

Any ideas on what could cause this issue?

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


big crush on Chad OMG posted:

I'm trying to think this thru, apologies if there is an HVAC thread

My AC unit is freezing up outside. If I turn it off but leave the fan running, it defrosts the evap coil and water flows freely from the drain pipe. It'll freeze up again once the AC is back on.

Freon levels were correct as of a couple months ago. There are 4 return air vents in the house (18x30 and four 12x12). Is there another filter somewhere at the unit? I can't find one.

Any ideas on what could cause this issue?

You probably have a filter at the unit right before the fan that is clogged. Too little airflow over the coil will cause it to freeze.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



glynnenstein posted:

You probably have a filter at the unit right before the fan that is clogged. Too little airflow over the coil will cause it to freeze.

This seems like the most likely scenario to me, but I've been in this house for 6 years, and the entire unit is sealed. I've even poked around in the attic above the closet which houses the furnace/blower unit and I can't see any spot where the filter would be.

Of course, the geniuses who built this house could have sealed a filter entirely in the unit. They forgot to include a main return grate in the drywall for the ducting. :haw:

VERTiG0
Jul 11, 2001

go move over bro

Arachnamus posted:

Do you own a shotgun

Or a plantation

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I meant for drainage but yeah that is some house.

Leviathan Song
Sep 8, 2010

jarito posted:

The upstairs deck is build on top of the downstairs deck. Here's a wider shot:



So I can't get in between the deck and whatever is under it. Since the deck is covered, I don't know what sort of plans they made to let it drain if it got wet.

Have you considered pulling up the damaged board to see what's underneath? You're going to need to replace it anyway and that'll give you a better idea what you're dealing with.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Does anyone have recommendations for a flood or area light specifically in a short-range motion-sensing application?

My backyard abuts a high-traffic area of my neighbor's property so I am looking to install a light over my back door that will only activate from an area out to about 10-15 feet in front of the fixture, though it is fine if it still sees a wide arc to either side of the door.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

glynnenstein posted:

Does anyone have recommendations for a flood or area light specifically in a short-range motion-sensing application?

My backyard abuts a high-traffic area of my neighbor's property so I am looking to install a light over my back door that will only activate from an area out to about 10-15 feet in front of the fixture, though it is fine if it still sees a wide arc to either side of the door.

The finest cheapest light fixture lowesdepot sold me had some adjustments for that and it seems to work pretty well. I have it mounted above my garage door but I have to get under a carlength away from it to get it to flip on. I have the motion sensor angled down and the sensitivity turned down. Same reason, if I had it all up where I would like it it would both trigger anytime my neighbor wandered around in his back yard and make it super bright. Outdoor LED floods in it under an eave and it's worked fine for nearly 2 years.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
I think you'd have to go pretty cheap to get one WITHOUT a sensitivity adjustment.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Yeah. I'm just trying to avoid installing something that either can't be adjusted low enough or that has a hair-thin line between seeing nothing at all and seeing my neighbor think about walking to his car.

Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

Wouldn't you just aim the detector so that it only covered the zone you want?

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Arachnamus posted:

I meant for drainage but yeah that is some house.

Yeah, surely this is something the servants could handle??

Omne
Jul 12, 2003

Orangedude Forever

OK I'm going crazy here. On one wall in my house I have three regular-size wall plates that are blank, and a double-size blank. I opened them up and they all have the same wires in them: grey coating with a red, black (each with copper inside) wires and some sort of string. Voltage tester shows nothing. The wires have about 12" of length stuffed inside each box. Here's a picture: http://imgur.com/a/KXwgx

Any idea what these are? I thought maybe speaker wire or something but no idea where they'd go. Telephone lines make no sense, and they're not wired to take an outlet. I had hoped they would be runs of Cat5e but no dice there.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Omne posted:

OK I'm going crazy here. On one wall in my house I have three regular-size wall plates that are blank, and a double-size blank. I opened them up and they all have the same wires in them: grey coating with a red, black (each with copper inside) wires and some sort of string. Voltage tester shows nothing. The wires have about 12" of length stuffed inside each box. Here's a picture: http://imgur.com/a/KXwgx

Any idea what these are? I thought maybe speaker wire or something but no idea where they'd go. Telephone lines make no sense, and they're not wired to take an outlet. I had hoped they would be runs of Cat5e but no dice there.

Looks like speaker to me. That string is so you can open up the outer cover easier.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Omne posted:

OK I'm going crazy here. On one wall in my house I have three regular-size wall plates that are blank, and a double-size blank. I opened them up and they all have the same wires in them: grey coating with a red, black (each with copper inside) wires and some sort of string. Voltage tester shows nothing. The wires have about 12" of length stuffed inside each box. Here's a picture: http://imgur.com/a/KXwgx

Any idea what these are? I thought maybe speaker wire or something but no idea where they'd go. Telephone lines make no sense, and they're not wired to take an outlet. I had hoped they would be runs of Cat5e but no dice there.

Looks like speaker wire to me. You can use an inductive wire tracer to try and follow them through the walls to find the other end.

https://m.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Definitely speaker. And you can tell by the sheathing that it's the kind that's rated for in wall, I would say.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

peanut posted:

Pull-down cabinet racks.



poo poo, my gf saw this and now I'm screwed.

Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

Good luck with whatever's behind the soy sauce or Tabasco, IMO.

McGurk
Oct 20, 2004

Cuz life sucks, kids. Get it while you can.

Has anyone used concrete path molds like the Quikrete Walkmaker? I've got some areas on the side of the house I'd like to make a path and these seem like a pretty good option.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Not sure if this is the best thread but:

I was surprised to learn a year or so ago when I had a plumbing leak that required tearing out some ceiling, that not all homes are made with 2x8 or 2x10 or 2x12 floor joists, and that my house had manufactured I-beams as floor joists, like these:

http://www.schlatter.org/images/New%20house/Framing/beam%20closeup%20w%20blocking%20noted%20copy.jpg

But it made sense, I beams are strong for their weight (i.e. cost), so I kind of assumed most newerish homes were made out of them (my i beam house was built in 06).

But I just bought a new home made out of this:



And was wondering if anyone had any opinions on the performance of the various options.

If I had to guess, the i beams would be on average slightly more rigid than what I have now, just because they're vertically supported every inch.

But that the current floor would have more load bearing capacity just because it's >3 2x4s for every inch, in a pretty strong arrangement.

And a 2x8 would probably be bringing up the rear, but i dunno and I especially don't know for a 2x12.

Also the i-beam house was a straight 2 story slab on grade type situation whereas the truss floor is a walk out basement on a slope, so maybe that has an impact on which is preferred?

It's pretty much just an academic question, it's not like I can change anything now, but I do find it interesting.

jarito
Aug 26, 2003

Biscuit Hider

Leviathan Song posted:

Have you considered pulling up the damaged board to see what's underneath? You're going to need to replace it anyway and that'll give you a better idea what you're dealing with.

poo poo, that is a good idea. I'll do that.

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Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

scrubs season six posted:

Not sure if this is the best thread but:

I was surprised to learn a year or so ago when I had a plumbing leak that required tearing out some ceiling, that not all homes are made with 2x8 or 2x10 or 2x12 floor joists, and that my house had manufactured I-beams as floor joists, like these:

http://www.schlatter.org/images/New%20house/Framing/beam%20closeup%20w%20blocking%20noted%20copy.jpg

But it made sense, I beams are strong for their weight (i.e. cost), so I kind of assumed most newerish homes were made out of them (my i beam house was built in 06).

But I just bought a new home made out of this:



And was wondering if anyone had any opinions on the performance of the various options.

If I had to guess, the i beams would be on average slightly more rigid than what I have now, just because they're vertically supported every inch.

But that the current floor would have more load bearing capacity just because it's >3 2x4s for every inch, in a pretty strong arrangement.

And a 2x8 would probably be bringing up the rear, but i dunno and I especially don't know for a 2x12.

Also the i-beam house was a straight 2 story slab on grade type situation whereas the truss floor is a walk out basement on a slope, so maybe that has an impact on which is preferred?

It's pretty much just an academic question, it's not like I can change anything now, but I do find it interesting.
https://goulddesigninc.wordpress.com/2014/02/06/which-product-is-better-i-joists-or-floor-trusses-part-2/
The truss can span a greater length for the same cross section but it is slightly more likely to flex and of course it's also significantly easier to run plumbing, hvac, and electrical through a truss. I joists advantages are they can be cut in the field and can slow the spread of fire more. Unless the top beam is cut, both products can support the weight of a bath tub.

Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Jul 2, 2017

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