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rdb posted:Google says its either the AM2 fuse or a relay which may or may not be integrated into a junction box. Just reporting back that I fixed it, it was a broken ground wire that was chewed by a mouse which is why it still had some voltage. Soldered it back together and the pump runs normally now, thanks for the advice.
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Jun 23, 2017 01:43
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How much snow accumulation really makes winter tires worthwhile? Moving north soon, but to a dry place that only sees about 15" snow annually. But going to be cold, with average high around 30f for a month or two in winter. I know all seasons will be hockey pucks at that temp, but with that little snow, are winter tires really going to be worth the extra wheels and such? I'm debating.
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Jun 23, 2017 01:59
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PabloBOOM posted:How much snow accumulation really makes winter tires worthwhile? Moving north soon, but to a dry place that only sees about 15" snow annually. But going to be cold, with average high around 30f for a month or two in winter. I know all seasons will be hockey pucks at that temp, but with that little snow, are winter tires really going to be worth the extra wheels and such? I'm debating. If your going to be below freezing for months, ice might be a bigger problem than snow.
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Jun 23, 2017 02:03
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Boys who love boys
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PabloBOOM posted:How much snow accumulation really makes winter tires worthwhile? Moving north soon, but to a dry place that only sees about 15" snow annually. But going to be cold, with average high around 30f for a month or two in winter. I know all seasons will be hockey pucks at that temp, but with that little snow, are winter tires really going to be worth the extra wheels and such? I'm debating. There's a difference between winter tires and snow tires. Winter tires are for cold temperatures and basically dry pavement. They're made of a softer compound that gets better grip at low temperatures. They wear quickly in the heat, though. Snow tires are made for driving in snow. They have deep and blocky tread patterns for getting better bite in loose material like snow. They are quite noisy and rough riding on dry pavement. Winter tires might be an option it if you need the extra grip in the cold. It needs to stay consistently cold for a long time to make them worthwhile. Sounds like you can probably live without the snow tires, though.
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Jun 23, 2017 02:08
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Deteriorata posted:There's a difference between winter tires and snow tires. Winter tires are for cold temperatures and basically dry pavement. They're made of a softer compound that gets better grip at low temperatures. They wear quickly in the heat, though. Well then. Shows how much I know! Never knew there was a difference... I'll probably stick with all seasons since I don't really go nuts when in winter months and see how that goes...
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Jun 23, 2017 02:35
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InitialDave posted:That does sound a little odd. Does it take any fluid, or does the level in the reservoir just stay there? It just stays there. I haven't tried forcing it in the other way yet.
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Jun 23, 2017 02:46
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kid sinister posted:I just can't get the clutch to bleed on my 1988 F150 for the life of me. I put on a new concentric slave cylinder and hose. The only thing original that's left is the master cylinder. Is the clutch hose mounted right now? iirc there's some weird poo poo going on in the quick disconnect. I think I ended up bench bleeding the master...
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Jun 23, 2017 12:00
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Breakfast Feud posted:Is the clutch hose mounted right now? iirc there's some weird poo poo going on in the quick disconnect. I think I ended up bench bleeding the master... Yeah, the whole clutch system is hooked up normally, or at least appears that way. It felt like the quick disconnect went in right. Then again, the whole reason I needed a replacement clutch hose was because the old quick disconnect wouldn't disconnect and I had to cut it to drop the transmission... I assume bench bleeding a clutch master cylinder is just like bench bleeding a brake master cylinder?
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Jun 23, 2017 17:25
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kid sinister posted:It just stays there. I haven't tried forcing it in the other way yet. kid sinister posted:Yeah, the whole clutch system is hooked up normally, or at least appears that way. It felt like the quick disconnect went in right. Then again, the whole reason I needed a replacement clutch hose was because the old quick disconnect wouldn't disconnect and I had to cut it to drop the transmission... If not, try the same at the top. Maybe you have a blocked bore in a new component somewhere. It happens. kid sinister posted:I assume bench bleeding a clutch master cylinder is just like bench bleeding a brake master cylinder?
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Jun 23, 2017 18:05
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PabloBOOM posted:How much snow accumulation really makes winter tires worthwhile? Moving north soon, but to a dry place that only sees about 15" snow annually. But going to be cold, with average high around 30f for a month or two in winter. I know all seasons will be hockey pucks at that temp, but with that little snow, are winter tires really going to be worth the extra wheels and such? I'm debating. If your all seasons are hockey pucks at that temperature, you got lovely all seasons. I'm in Colorado where in the winter we don't get above 30 for months, but I still use all seasons. We don't get a ton of snow, and when we do it gets plowed fast. I use the Continental DWS tires, they're fantastic. I have never had any trouble at all in wet or dry.
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Jun 23, 2017 19:48
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InitialDave posted:Try it, you might like it. Hey, thanks for all your help. I just realized that I left out a symptom that might help diagnose what's happening. I haven't bench bled anything yet. Still, the clutch pedal feels weird. It will stay in whatever position you leave it in, with no resistance to being pushed or pulled. Yes it's connected properly to the master cylinder rod. Does that help? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 23, 2017 |
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Jun 23, 2017 19:56
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PabloBOOM posted:How much snow accumulation really makes winter tires worthwhile? Moving north soon, but to a dry place that only sees about 15" snow annually. But going to be cold, with average high around 30f for a month or two in winter. I know all seasons will be hockey pucks at that temp, but with that little snow, are winter tires really going to be worth the extra wheels and such? I'm debating. With that little annual snowfall you're probably only really going to need them 2-3 times per season. I live in a region that measures annual snowfall in multiple feet (NE Ohio, lake Erie regularly dumps lake effect snow 50+ miles inland) and even I can get away with all seasons for much of the winter. That being said, they're very nice when you do get dumped on.
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Jun 23, 2017 19:56
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kid sinister posted:Hey, thanks for all your help. I just realized that I left out a symptom that might help diagnose what's happening. I haven't bench bled anything yet. Still, the clutch pedal feels weird. It will stay in whatever position you leave it in, with no resistance to being pushed or pulled. Yes it's connected properly to the master cylinder rod. Does that help? If you're putting fluid in the reservoir and it's not going down at all regardless of pedal presses etc, it seems a good chance there's a blockage getting the fluid into the master itself. But the implication was you'd not messed with that.
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Jun 23, 2017 20:23
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InitialDave posted:That's not unusual if there's no fluid in there, they often don't have a return spring on the pedal, as it's not really necessary. On it's own, it doesn't specifically mean anything in terms of diagnosis. The only thing I did with the master cylinder was top off the reservoir and I replaced an O ring that fit on the end of the hose's brass fitting. But it's all about "the implication".
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Jun 23, 2017 20:38
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kid sinister posted:The only thing I did with the master cylinder was top off the reservoir and I replaced an O ring that fit on the end of the hose's brass fitting. If you undo the joint at the master end, does it leak?
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Jun 23, 2017 20:45
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InitialDave posted:Ah, remote reservoir with a hose to the master? Nope, reservoir is built into the top of the master. Yes, it did leak while I pulled out the hose fitting to swap the O ring on the end.
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Jun 23, 2017 20:57
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Continental DWS tires are the second worst tire I have ever had in the snow, right behind a set of Bridgestone potenza re098 or whatever they were 15 years ago. Garbage. I still made it, and they were great in the summer, but the experience was not pleasant. In fact the bridgestones were so bad on my e30 that I went out the next day and bought my first set of winter tires. I now live somewhere where we average maybe 20" of snow per season and I still run winter tires on my dd prius. I run them year round and still got 50k out of the last set. They are just fine when its warm. They brake better in cool, wet situations than all seasons or performance tires. The only area they lose out is all out cornering in the summer, and well, its a Prius and thats not what its for. Don't write winter tires off just because they say winter.
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Jun 23, 2017 22:42
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rdb posted:Continental DWS tires are the second worst tire I have ever had in the snow, right behind a set of Bridgestone potenza re098 or whatever they were 15 years ago. Garbage. I still made it, and they were great in the summer, but the experience was not pleasant. In fact the bridgestones were so bad on my e30 that I went out the next day and bought my first set of winter tires. I don't know what to tell you. What do you prefer for all seasons? On the Tire Rack testing they did really well. What kind of snow?
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Jun 23, 2017 23:17
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kid sinister posted:Nope, reservoir is built into the top of the master. Yes, it did leak while I pulled out the hose fitting to swap the O ring on the end. If the cylinder isn't clogged, maybe try pulling on the pedal so it's all the way out and see if there's a difference in the fluid lever then, and top up with the pedal at full extension? I remember after bleeding and installing it there wasn't any play in the pedal at all until I connected the quick disconnect.
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Jun 23, 2017 23:40
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Heavy, wet, slick, in an area (new kent county, VA) that was not diligent about plowing. They were on my former 09 colbalt ss/tc with limited slip. The snow was up to the bottom lip of the bumper, and it was the car/tires I referenced when I mentioned going farther without TC. As far as all seasons go, the ones not labeled performance or low rolling resistance are generally the best I have found in the snow. After my own bad experiences I have given up on running all seasons and just keep a spare set of rims with performance tires on them. And I bought a 4wd truck, which has been fine with a set of Michelin highway all seasons even without using 4wd.
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Jun 23, 2017 23:49
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Anyone have experience with those portable swamp coolers in a garage that doesn't really have the ducting/support for something like that? It's 120 loving degrees here in Phoenix and I'm wondering if I could see much benefit of closing the garage door like 60% and putting a portable evap cooler at the ground level just below the agrage door pumping in cooler air
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Jun 24, 2017 00:24
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You need equal airflow leaving the area with a swamp cooler - it can't keep re-cooling humid air. With that said I tried one of the more inexpensive swamp coolers from Home Depot a while back and wasn't satisfied with the performance at all. Returned it and have just been sweating my balls off in the garage instead. I think you'd need one of the big motherfuckers to make a dent in a garage out here.
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Jun 24, 2017 00:28
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Is there a shelf life for motor oil? I've got a quart of M1 syn that's been sitting on my shelf for 2 or 3 years now, and I'd like to use it for the upcoming change. It would be diluted 5:1 with a new wally world jug. Am I good to go?
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Jun 24, 2017 00:57
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Skinnymansbeerbelly posted:Is there a shelf life for motor oil? I've got a quart of M1 syn that's been sitting on my shelf for 2 or 3 years now, and I'd like to use it for the upcoming change. It would be diluted 5:1 with a new wally world jug. Am I good to go? Unopened it's probably good for several thousand years at room temperature.
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Jun 24, 2017 01:00
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Can early 2000s Ford Siemens ECUs be remapped, as in with a live software package for roller or road tuning? Figured someone might know before I go hunting down a definitive answer eslewhere. Specifically the EU/UK variants, e.g. the SIM 24.
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Jun 24, 2017 01:58
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ROFLburger posted:Anyone have experience with those portable swamp coolers in a garage that doesn't really have the ducting/support for something like that? It's 120 loving degrees here in Phoenix and I'm wondering if I could see much benefit of closing the garage door like 60% and putting a portable evap cooler at the ground level just below the agrage door pumping in cooler air Cold air sinks and floats across the ground, like you see with fog machines. If your garage door is only closed 60% then around 100% of that cold air is gonna be rushing out of the garage. Edit: you could see about buying one or two of the 4x8 feet xps foam insulation blocks from Lowes / Home Depot and cutting them with a box cutter to fill all around the air conditioner and seal in the air. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jun 24, 2017 |
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Jun 24, 2017 03:42
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Captain Yossarian posted:Anyone? I'm behind in the thread and catching up, but either of those should be perfectly fine.
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Jun 24, 2017 16:38
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Breakfast Feud posted:If the cylinder isn't clogged, maybe try pulling on the pedal so it's all the way out and see if there's a difference in the fluid lever then, and top up with the pedal at full extension? I remember after bleeding and installing it there wasn't any play in the pedal at all until I connected the quick disconnect. I figured it out. It was the master cylinder! I disconnected it and pulled it out just to check it, and sure enough, the plastic up by the firewall was cracked enough that the seal broke and no fluid would move around. Stupid plastic parts only lasting 29 years, I tell ya... So in total I had a slave cylinder that leaked, a hose with a quick disconnect so corroded it couldn't disconnect, and a master cylinder with a broken seal that couldn't move fluid. I love diagnosing multiple part problems! Anyway, I got a metal master cylinder now. I bled my brakes properly and the pedal is a poo poo ton lighter now. Hopefully my clutch system is good for a couple more decades now.
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Jun 24, 2017 18:19
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Next issue up! The oil pressure gauge on my 1988 F150 goes past H now that I replaced the sensor. Before I did anything, the needle would jump all over the place. All spring I did a ton of work down there: new oil pan and gasket, oil pump with shaft, pick up tube, front and rear crankshaft gaskets, timing chain and its cover gasket. The new sensor is a lot smaller than the old one. Did I get the wrong sensor? I mean did I get an on-and-off-only type, with no in between? Also, I'd just like to say thanks to everyone that's helped me out with my problems. If you come by St. Louis sometime, I owe you a beer.
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Jun 24, 2017 23:40
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Check the grounds and connection first, disconnect the wire at the sensor and see what the gauge does.
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Jun 25, 2017 00:08
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Ford oil pressure gauges from that era(and beyond) are famous for being off or on. If its going past H I would think you bought the wrong sensor or the cluster itself is broken. Try putting the old one back in if you can.
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Jun 25, 2017 00:43
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There's 2 different oil pressure senders available for that truck. One is for a gauge, one is for a light. Did you get the right one?
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Jun 25, 2017 03:15
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:There's 2 different oil pressure senders available for that truck. One is for a gauge, one is for a light. Did you get the right one? According to O'Reilly's site, "with gauge". Yet it doesn't act like that. I think I got the wrong one.
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Jun 25, 2017 03:23
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My Silverado has riveted in place lower ball joints. What's the least poo poo way to knock them out? Options I've come up with: - Drill them out with successively larger bits. - Hack at it with a - Find a mechanic who will use an air chisel to snap and drive them for beer+  (and if so is this a trivial thing or are we talking a case or more?)Obviously the last option is ideal but it's Sunday so it would take a couple days.
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Jun 25, 2017 05:39
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monsterzero posted:My Silverado has riveted in place lower ball joints. What's the least poo poo way to knock them out? Options I've come up with: I had riveted ball joints in my '66 Bonneville when I bought it. Just drilled 'em out...although I had pulled the control arms to replace the bushings as well since they too were FUBAR. Be sure the fasteners that you replace them with are Grade 8. I got decent replacement ball joints but they came with lovely nuts & bolts that stripped out. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 05:53
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My C10 had the same deal and I think my dad and I just used one of his ancient corded drills. Definitely didn't need a death wheel, and I don't think he even has a cold chisel.
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Jun 25, 2017 05:55
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So you're saying I should buy a drill press??? Thanks! I'll drill them out. New joints come with grade 10.9 bolts and nylocks. Is there any consideration for installing the nuts up or down?
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Jun 25, 2017 06:32
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Deteriorata posted:Unopened it's probably good for several thousand years at room temperature. Actually you'd think that, but no. https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/ask-our-auto-experts/questions-for-auto-experts/shelf-life-of-unopened-mobil-1-quarts Modern oils have all manner of detergents and additives and some of those are mildly volatile or can act as catalysts, meaning, they can break down even sealed at room temperature. You should generally use your motor oil within five years. More reading: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/what-is-the-shelf-life-of-motor-oil
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Jun 25, 2017 07:20
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monsterzero posted:So you're saying I should buy a drill press??? Thanks! I'll drill them out. The rivets aren't tungsten carbide or anything; they hand-drill out surprisingly easily. If you have one, hit the rivet heads with a center punch so the bit doesn't dance all over. As far as installing them goes, with some type of nut-locking it doesn't really matter. In my case: between the flanging of my stamped control-arms, and the nearby bulk of the joint in the lowers, it was only feasible to install them with the nut up, as I couldn't get anything in the little space that was left except needlenose Vise-Grips. After installation, I smeared the exposed threads with grease. I just replaced a lower last week that I had installed in 2001 (it was a crappy design and the boot ripped); the threads were perfect under the accumulated black gunk. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jun 25, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 15:12
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I'm actually really glad that question came up. I'm slowly working my way through the suspension on a 66 Corvette which also has riveted ball joints. Good call on the hardware, too. I wouldn't have thought about that. I'll have to see what Moog included in the replacements.
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Jun 25, 2017 17:27
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