|
Sagebrush posted:Excessive bouncing is a sign of insufficient damping, though I don't know how much that's adjustable on your particular bike. I only have rear preload adjustability. I have it at 5 out of (i think) 9 right now.
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 07:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 13:07 |
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I only have rear preload adjustability. I have it at 5 out of (i think) 9 right now. Sagebrush is right, it's not damping enough. You can try taking the preload to either end to see if that makes the bouncing more or less pronounced, but it probably won't make a fundamental difference. Was it better when it was new? If it's worn out, you have a good excuse to go aftermarket. If it isn't, the excuse is less good but still valid. Probably tons of options for it. The only downside is you'll want to do the forks next.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 09:28
|
|
|
what tools can i use instead of the specialized ones for delinking and installing a chain. I do my work at my local auto mechanic and have access to a very robust toolbox
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 10:03
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:I only have rear preload adjustability. I have it at 5 out of (i think) 9 right now. The real fix is respringing the bike. Sorry.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 13:11
|
|
|
builds character posted:The real fix is respringing the bike. Sorry. What's that? I should just get a Street Triple? Sorry my ears aren't so good.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 14:21
|
|
|
A MIRACLE posted:What's that? I should just get a Street Triple? Sorry my ears aren't so good. Seems like they're working just fine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 14:34
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:what tools can i use instead of the specialized ones for delinking and installing a chain. I do my work at my local auto mechanic and have access to a very robust toolbox https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Chain-Breaker-Cutter-Riveting/dp/B01EO17L02 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVUYc1B9wLI
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 14:47
|
|
|
Don't break the chain with the tool, use an angle grinder or Dremel to grind down the rivets.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 14:52
|
|
|
The video demonstrates that, but you still need a way to push the pin out after you've ground the tip off. Getting an old chain off without a breaker isn't hard. Worst case you can just cut right through one of the plates. It's installing a new one that's a pain in the rear end without proper tools.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 14:56
|
|
|
Yeah f the rivets, just grind a link apart
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 18:28
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:You should probably also check whatever cable routing is causing the speedo cable to have tension on it, unplugging it. There shouldn't be any force in that direction on the cable, which is why the mechanism to hold it in place is wimpy. I just took it in for one of its regular service intervals (though not, unfortunately, at the dealer I got it from). With your point in mind, I asked the mechanic about exactly how much slack the cable usually has when they take apart the instrument cluster. He said "some", which is more than the "none" it has now. When I get it back, I'm going to do some digging and figure out if it's wrapped around something it shouldn't be.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 18:55
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:what tools can i use instead of the specialized ones for delinking and installing a chain. I do my work at my local auto mechanic and have access to a very robust toolbox Get the RK chain tool. It rules. That or the D.I.D. one. nsaP posted:Yeah f the rivets, just grind a link apart air tools make short work of this but it's sorta messy. I have a tool that's broken probably 50 chains and it still looks brand new and I still prefer to just cut through the plates because it takes like 15 seconds.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 20:51
|
|
|
I have the RK chain tool and I still get out the angle grinder to remove chains because who doesn't like cutting poo poo with angle grinders
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 22:07
|
|
|
I'm trying to find the oil filter o-rings for my DRZ online in bulk. ThumperTalk says they are 1.9t x13 ID mm and 2.4 x 52.6. I haven't found them on McMaster or Fastenal, so where else can I check?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2017 22:18
|
|
|
What the hell is wrong with my hands? Up to recently I was riding a Hyosung 650 and I never had hand cramps. But I just upgraded to a Yamaha MT-10 SP (sweetest naked ever) and it seems like I wind up with carpal like symptoms that persist for after a week or so. Numbness in fingers, soreness in thumb joint and pad, etc. I don't seem to be putting my weight on the bars, I've loosened clutch and brake to the lightest settings, but I'm still miserable. Do I just need to swap out with aftermarket adjustable levers? Help, I love this bike so much but it's getting bad enough that I avoided a group ride this weekend because of pain from the weekend before!
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 10:03
|
|
|
are your hands cold? Cold hands really accelerate fatigue
Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Jun 24, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 10:05
|
|
|
I don't think so, I'm in Korea and we're in the middle of monsoon season so it's humid and lovely in general. I am riding with perforated gloves but I've never felt like they were cold.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 10:13
|
|
|
Different grip angle that doesn't agree with your hands?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 10:16
|
|
|
Stock grips don't feel slippery to you do they? I've been getting slightly cramped hands lately because my stock grips on my VTR are wearing down and feel slippery now, I'll be changing them soon. Used to get it on my zx10 as well before I replaced those grips. Never had it on my KTM which has nice grippy grips. I can totally relax my hands and barely need to hold on with good grips, but with old/lovely grips I feel I need to hold on a bit tighter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 10:47
|
|
|
The lever angle hasn't changed has it? You could try going to a pillow top grip if the one you have on there now is a harder compound to see if it's possibly vibration or you white knuckling the actual grip and not realizing it (not the same as leaning into the bars / putting weight on your arms).
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 12:59
|
|
|
I know you say that you don't seem to be putting weight on the bars, but you just upgraded to something 3x more powerful than what you were used to riding. I still occasionally find myself gripping too hard when I'm hustling the Tuono and start to cramp up.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 14:52
|
|
|
Can you angle the levers up or down at all? I've found that hand cramps in my case were caused by having my wrists bent while pulling the levers. If you rotate them so that in a normal riding position your wrist and hand are in a straight line (in my case this means turning the levers down towards the ground a bit) it may help.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 19:14
|
|
|
Communist Walrus posted:
To follow up on this, I just got done reassembling it after taking off the glove box and poking around the innards. I wasn't able to find anything glaringly obvious that was putting tension on it, save for a clip that it shared with another wire. I removed the speedo cable from the clip, which provided an extra inch or two of slack. The clip in question was maybe six or seven inches below the instrument cluster, so I'm halfway certain that the loose speedo cable isn't going to interfere with anything (as in, there's no moving parts up there). I think the o ring that was on end of the speedo cable is supposed to fulfill the function that another poster suggested using rubber bands for earlier (i.e. keeping the prongs on the end of the cable from being able to press inwards), so I moved that back into place once I reattached the cable and added a zip tie below the o ring to give it something else to hold it in place. The speedometer and odometer are working again, but exactly how long it'll last remains to be seen.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 19:18
|
|
|
Jazzzzz posted:I have the RK chain tool and I still get out the angle grinder to remove chains because who doesn't like cutting poo poo with angle grinders This confirms I need an angle grinder. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 19:22
|
|
|
Are there any websites that sell larger LED integrated tail lights that aren't cheap plastic? I'm trying to find something larger for my XS650, and all of the tiny LED ones for sportbikes don't really fit the bill. Maybe I just need to go back to a large stop light, and put back separate turn signals 
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 19:35
|
|
|
What the gently caress? I went to rebuild my master cylinder and the replacement piston part just... got completely stuck inside the bore. Like 100% stuck. There's no way it'll come out without damage. It's the correct part and everything. Anyone had this happen before?
M42 fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jun 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2017 22:49
|
|
|
Whats the deal with Bimota in the US? Do they even have a dealer network? The italian bike shops near me in california have a few from 2006 but none of the new models.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 00:36
|
|
|
Skip past the nonsense and just head to a sadomasochism conference.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 00:42
|
|
|
no loving way would i buy one but I still want to admire it in person
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 00:47
|
|
|
M42 posted:What the gently caress? I went to rebuild my master cylinder and the replacement cylinder/gasket bit just... got completely stuck inside the bore. Like 100% stuck. There's no way it'll come out without damage. It's the correct part and everything. Anyone had this happen before? Are you talking about the rubber boot that covers the cylinder or one of the actual seals that sits on the piston itself? Do you have a pick or pair of hemostats that you could try to gently pry at the side or push from the opposite end of the cylinder to see if the cylinder has a recessed channel that the end of the seal sits/locks into? Try to coat everything in a light film of brake fluid to help lube everything if you haven't already. Did you inspect the inside of the cylinder wall for any non-smooth bits that might be catching a piece of seal/boot? Once you do get it back off I would double check that to make sure the cylinder itself isn't bad. If you don't have them already, I recommend a set of mechanic picks. A dental pick/scaler can work in a pinch if you have one of those as long as you are careful with the pointy end.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 00:49
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:no loving way would i buy one but I still want to admire it in person Barber's museum had one (maybe two?) on display last time I went. EDIT: No clue what year they were. I'll see if I can dig around and find my pictures. tjones fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jun 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 00:51
|
|
|
It's the whole piston. The rebuild kit comes with a new one with the gaskets attached. Pretty sure there was like a piece of grit or something that jammed in there... only thing that makes sense. No space between the piston and bore wall to dig it out. Rip MC, i guess. Good thing it's a dime a dozen r6 one.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 00:54
|
|
|
Do you have access to compressed air? Do you think you could blow the piston back out from where the hose attaches to the side of the cylinder? I take it the spring is already in place? Does the Besides one of the seals working loose or twisting when the piston was placed, I'm at a loss at what would cause it besides maybe debris of some sort like you suggested. tjones fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Jun 25, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 01:23
|
|
|
To me it sounds like one of the seal lips has folded over and jammed everything up. You did lube everything right?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 03:22
|
|
|
Of course. Like the last three times I rebuilt an MC, I just coat everything in brake fluid and it reassembles no problem. I was thinking it was probably a torn/folded seal as well... oh well. Got a new MC coming in the mail now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 12:45
|
|
|
dumb. posted:Any suggestions for getting stains out of paint? Progress update (for anyone with the same dilemma): clay bars are magical! A few squirts of wash 'n wax and 5 mins rubbing with a chunk of clay went from this:  to this:  
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 14:50
|
|
|
M42 posted:Of course. Like the last three times I rebuilt an MC, I just coat everything in brake fluid and it reassembles no problem. I was thinking it was probably a torn/folded seal as well... oh well. Got a new MC coming in the mail now. If you've got a grease gun, you can push the thing out with grease. I know you've got a new one coming in the mail, but it'd still be interesting to see what the failure mode was.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 16:41
|
|
|
Anyone have any tips for making plastics "pop" again? Ive got some black fairing bits on my F4i that have gone from shiny black to matte black and I'd like to restore them. Also any tips for getting light scratches out of regular fairings?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
If the plastics are unpainted, wet-sand with the following grades of sandpaper in sequence: 220 320 400 600 800 1200 1500 2000 4000 starting with whichever one produces scratches on the same scale as the largest scratch you're trying to remove. At 4000 grit, swap to a polishing compound, and you'll have a gloss finish again. There isn't really a quicker/easier way to do it properly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 18:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 13:07 |
|
|
FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:Anyone have any tips for making plastics "pop" again? Ive got some black fairing bits on my F4i that have gone from shiny black to matte black and I'd like to restore them. Also any tips for getting light scratches out of regular fairings? The non-painted black parts on my CB300 were all dried and gray looking, rubbed some of this on and it worked wonders 
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2017 19:21
|
|