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They make a Momo hub for an old Nova? Now I'm interested. Is the steering column collapsible? 
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Apr 19, 2017 03:42
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Momo 2401. Apparently works on like 90% of GM poo poo from 1969-1995. As far as collapsible? Uhh, . I may get a new column for it eventually to get rid of the shifter, but we'll see. There's something hosed up in mine where the car only starts in neutral, too  .
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Apr 19, 2017 14:08
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Hub/adapter delivered on Sunday. Opened the box up to find a bunch of fun parts, some warnings in poorly translated Italian, and NO instructions. Ok, I can probably figure this out. There aren't that many parts and I'm a smart enough dude. So let's see what we have: Alright, so - we've got: - 6 screws for wheel-to-hub attachment plus allen key (the wheel came with screws as well, but those were button heads and these are flatheads so they'll sit flush with the wheel) - 1 wire with a female spade on each end (came with wheel) - 1 wire with a female spade on one end and a female bullet connector on the other (came with hub) - 2 metal grounding rings. Got one with the wheel and one with the hub. I forget which is which but I'll be using the one with a shallower 'depth' as the other one doesn't let the horn button sit flush with the wheel. - Rubber sleeve to cover the hub - Horn button - Horn contact wire from the Nova The main challenge was figuring out what wires went where. There are 2 male spades on the back of the horn button and 1 on the ground ring. I've got 4 female spades and I KNOW that the factory one has to be used. One of the spades on the horn button actually has a ground symbol next to it so after confirming with some pictures online, I figured it out. Dual-spade wire goes from ground on horn button to ring, factory wire will get plugged onto the other spade on the button. Spade/bullet wire won't be used.  I've put a loop in that ground wire to shorten it up a bit so it fits much more nicely in the hub. Once all that was figured out, I tried to get the front wheels on the car as straight as I could and then went about figuring out how to clock the hub to have everything nice and straight. Once all that was settled, there was the matter of figuring out how to get the factory horn wire to stay where it should. If you're not familiar, it basically works like this: there's a ring in the column that carries the current for the horn signal. There's a brass contact on the end of the wheel's horn wire that presses up against that. The wire turns with the wheel while the ring does not so the contact gets held up against the ring with pressure from the spring that you see up there. The plastic tube bit on the wire clips into another tube on the column to keep the spring compressed. My problem is the tube on the column broke the gently caress off so I've got nothing to hold the drat spring in place. I've super-glued the tube back onto the plastic plate on the column and it actually seems to be pretty strong. I can clip the wire in and it stays. I don't know if it will hold up to the constant stress from the spring, though. What I would really like to do is run some heavier duty epoxy around the outside of the tube to really get a good seal, but I need to take off the steering wheel lock plate to get to it. Of course, that requires a special tool that I don't have. It's a bit obscure so hopefully I can track one down at a parts store for a loaner. If I can find one in the next couple days, I'll get that plate off and run some epoxy around that tube. Give it the rest of the week to cure and then maybe I'll get the thing mounted this weekend.
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Apr 24, 2017 16:17
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This is basically my nightmare fear for the Momo adapters. Even for relatively popular cars like the Miata the internet instructions are like "buy a Momo for a different car and then dremel the poo poo out of it so the horn still works." WTF?
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Apr 24, 2017 16:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This is basically my nightmare fear for the Momo adapters.  I think I'm in good shape here as far as the adapter goes, my poo poo's just old and broken .
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Apr 24, 2017 16:48
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Had the day off work today so I figured I'd try my hand at getting the lock plate off. Picked up the tool yesterday during lunch so I could come home and play with it.  The middle shaft screws on to the steering shaft and then the big U gets screwed down to the lock plate with that wing nut. Tighten it down some more and it will eventually bottom out. This gives you access to the little lock ring that keeps the plate in place. You can see here still on the steering shaft just this side of the lock plate.  Weaseling that thing off there was a bit of a chore since all I had was a few small flathead screwdrivers but I got it done .It sits in a groove around the shaft so you just have to work it out of there and slide it up and off. Once the plate's off, you can then work out the target of this whole operation. Dorman actually makes a replacement and they call it a turn signal cam. No wonder I couldn't find replacements. Never would have guessed that was the name.  So once it was out, I cleaned up the joint the best I could with some alcohol and then slathered the thing with super duper JB Weld plastic epoxy. This was all done last night so I could let it cure. I hadn't originally planned on taking today off, but it happened so I went out to see how it felt. Pretty drat solid. Obviously I didn't start reefing on it trying to break poo poo, but it's pretty sturdy. Should be plenty to resist the tension of the spring. Installation is the reverse of removal, blah blah blah. Popped the wire in there so I could feed it through the hub instead of trying to slot it in afterwards.  I'd already made a couple marks on the hub so I knew exactly where it needed to go. Nice big hole to thread the wire through so that's nice.  Slide the rubber sleeve over it, plug the horn wire into the button, and 6 screws later...   Kick rear end. Seats won't be until June, but maybe I'll get some other stuff done in the meantime. Still need front armrest pads and door panels all around. Maybe I'll clear all the poo poo off the hood and swap out those front marker lenses.
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Apr 25, 2017 23:36
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Welp:  Apparently they're shipping straight from Corbeau and they're estimated to hit the road around June 15th. Coming ground from Utah so that will probably be another few days. Fingers crossed I'll have these things in three weeks.
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Jun 1, 2017 02:47
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Sweet now weld a roll cage in it!
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Jun 1, 2017 03:19
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I was so bored earlier I changed the oil in the Mazda. Other than hunting for my allen socket for about 15 minutes because I'd hid it from myself the last time I'd used it there was no drama there. Figured I'd get the front side markers swapped out on the Nova while I was out there. Gave me a good excuse to get all the poo poo off the hood anyway. To give you an idea of what happens to colored plastic after decades of sun (including some time in SoCal), here's a comparison of the passenger side old and new:  Yeah. I got some LED bulbs a while back so I figured I might as well swap them while I'm digging around behind the fenders. I'll need to get a different flasher can.  Driver side before the swap:  And after. You can see here how hosed up that headlight trim piece is. Gonna need some new ones but I probably won't worry about that poo poo until I eventually paint this thing.  Now I just gotta wait for those seats...
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Jun 3, 2017 22:04
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I dunno how you can be so patient. If my project car was at the point yours is, I'd be either driving it around with the stock seat until the buckets showed up, or farting around town on a lawn chair. If it runs moves and stops, I'd be so ready to drive it.
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Jun 4, 2017 02:07
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Raluek posted:I dunno how you can be so patient. If my project car was at the point yours is, I'd be either driving it around with the stock seat1 until the buckets showed up, or farting around town on a lawn chair2. If it runs moves and stops3, I'd be so ready to drive it. I think the project taking as long as it has (and will continue to take) will make that first trip all that much sweeter. Want to just comment on a few things: 1 - Stock bench is long gone. Wouldn't fit with the tunnel extension. Sold it to a dude building a drag car. Older dude that cared waaay too much about the (carpeted) bed of his new $50k+ GMC. 2 - No insurance or valid sticker = no farting around town. I fully intend to take it around the block and my little subdivision once the seats go in, though. 3 - I haven't had it on the road after replacing the brakes. Even though they're bled and the pedal feels good, I literally do not now if they will actually stop the car . Need to remember to adjust the prop valve once I do get it moving, though.
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Jun 4, 2017 03:47
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Shipping on the 15th? Nay! Shipping on the 2nd, apparently. And delivered on the 8th:   I'm starting a 4 day weekend with the wife out of town. I do believe I'm gonna have seats in the car by the time Monday gets here. Hells yeah.
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Jun 9, 2017 01:24
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Those will look kick rear end. Have you already sat in them and made engine noises?
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Jun 9, 2017 01:36
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Sat in them, yes. Vroom vroom noises, not yet. There's no hardware included with them so I need to figure out thread pitch and lengths and go pick up some grade 8s. May happen today, may not. Edit: Scratch that previous sentence. What I thought were mounts/standoffs in the bottom of the seats are actually the heads of socket cap screws.  Looks like they're ready to go in!
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Jun 9, 2017 |
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Jun 9, 2017 14:56
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Holy poo poo, what a pain in the rear end. Nothing like trying to thread a smooth-headed cap screw upside-down into a blind hole surrounded by grease with nothing to guide you but a flashlight and a mirror. 8 times. They could have at least done some knurling on the screws to give a little traction, but oh well. It's done now. Did the passenger seat and then took a quick break for some rehydration.  Driver's side was just about a big a pain as the passenger's, but it's all done now. Really need to get those new door panels.  
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Jun 9, 2017 21:09
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Looks drat good.
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Jun 10, 2017 02:16
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Thanks. Went back out and sat in it today and adjusted stuff and put the belts (yes, beltS) on to see how everything felt. I think I'm really going to like driving this car. Put the battery on the charger and it started pulling some current, but I'm worried it might be beyond saving. It's some no-name brick and it's been flat for I don't know how long. Battery's going in the trunk eventually and I've kinda been looking at Optimas, but I kind of see a lot of not so great stuff about them. Geir's bus thread is another stroke in the negatives column too. I like the idea of the AGM batteries, though. You guys got any recommendations overall?
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Jun 11, 2017 00:03
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Optima's drop in quality coincided with their plant moving to mexico and the quality largely went back to normal once they stabilized operations at that plant. The yellow top I put in my 6 works like a dream compared to the advance mid tier battery that was in it when I bought it. In something like the nova, I wouldn't worry about just slapping a yellow or red top in it amd calling it a day.
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Jun 11, 2017 01:49
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Means a lot coming from a part counter dude. Thanks man.
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Jun 11, 2017 04:20
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Alternately, deka, interstate and a few other brands make agm group 34 batteries. I'd probably still place bets on the optimas lasting longer or at least being successfully recovered from being heavily discharged with a nice long run on a trickle charger.
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Jun 11, 2017 04:32
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Good news and bad news. Good news: battery took a charge! Holy poo poo! 13v across the posts. Well done, old-rear end battery charger! Bad news: when I hook the loving thing up, the horn honks. gently caress. Pulled the steering wheel off and even removed the wire that contacts the ring on the turn signal cam. Still honks. What the gently caress. I'm gonna have to pull the loving hub off again so I can figure out what the hell's going on in there. God drat it. I know this thread doesn't get a lot of traffic, but I'll take any suggestions .
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Jun 21, 2017 01:37
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I've got nothing because across two columns and a decade and a half, I haven't figured out how to make the Grant horn on my truck not randomly honk if I turn with the turn signal engaged.
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Jun 21, 2017 04:56
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Good news and bad news. Unhook the horn itself at the source for now while you wire up a novelty-airhorn that will replace it, which is tied into a giant red button on the dash? 
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Jun 21, 2017 13:08
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Got any wiring diagrams?
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Jun 21, 2017 13:18
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Adiabatic posted:Got any wiring diagrams? A WIZARD APPROACHES I've got the FSMs and I know the diagrams are in there somewhere, but I'm at work and don't have access to them. I need to go over them and see what goes where. Once I pull all the poo poo back off the column so I can get to that cam, I'll hook the battery back up and see where I'm at. If no honk, then I'll start putting poo poo back together and see which part is apparently full of honks.
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Jun 21, 2017 15:17
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Adiabatic posted:Got any wiring diagrams? Using those and your multimeter to check if the horn wiring is in the column or somewhere else is where I'd start. Hopefully keep you from having to take apart the column unnecessarily.
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Jun 21, 2017 15:47
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I remembered I have a PDF of the body manual and while it's got some wiring diagrams, it doesn't seem to have anything forward of the firewall. Must be in the chassis manual. I almost wonder if the horn circuit is somehow tied into the marker lamp circuit. I changed the bulbs out with LEDs not long ago. Outside of the steering wheel/hub change, nothing else has changed since the last time this thing ran.
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Jun 21, 2017 16:08
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What are you gonna do for the back seats? Could you fab in some kind of race seat mounts?
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Jun 21, 2017 18:32
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Jonny Nox posted:What are you gonna do for the back seats? I plan on reusing the frames and just having it re-foamed and re-covered to sort of match the fronts. Corbeau sells yards of their fabric so I can get an exact match there. I figure I'll get some quotes from some upholstery places and see what's what. If it's some wacko amount I may actually go with 2 more buckets, but it'd have to be pretty drat high for that to happen.
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Jun 21, 2017 19:04
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I know this thread doesn't get a lot of traffic, I follow this one and love the updates, I just don't post much here. Keep truckin', good thread. 
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Jun 22, 2017 01:14
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This car is wicked cool
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Jun 22, 2017 01:18
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Engine compartment diagram: I'm going to head out there after I get some breakfast and pull those LEDs and chase some wires. Hopefully I"ll get somewhere... Edit: LEDs out, still honks. Figured it would, but that's the only actual change I can think of outside of the wheel. I'm gonna have to pull the drat hub off and get that turn signal cam out to see what the gently caress's going on. I had the car running after I put the fan in so I know that didn't do anything. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 24, 2017 |
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Jun 24, 2017 16:09
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BREAKING NEWS: HORN NO LONGER HONKS UNLESS GIVEN EXPLICIT PERMISSION TO DO SO. So I went out again after I pulled the LEDs and pulled the steering wheel/hub nut off in preparation of going out and getting the tools to actually pull the drat thing off the column. While I was there, I took a little #0 or whatever size Phillips screwdriver and just kinda poked at the horn contact down in the column since I could get at it through the tube for the wire contact. Just kinda jabbed at it like you do when you're poking at something with no real direction, you know? Figured maybe something got dickered up when I covered the loving thing in epoxy. Sidenote: pretty nice to have a comfy seat while I'm loving with this stuff now. So I poked it for a couple minutes and then went back inside to catch up on Engine Masters. Went back out after a while just because and poked the terminals to the battery again. Silence. Poke poke with the terminals. No honk. Pop the terminals on the posts. No honk. Dome light! Apparently giving the horn contact a good loving-around-with actually did some good. Started to add pieces back to the equation and testing the battery in between. LEDs, no honk (duh). Steering wheel nut, no honk. Horn wire, no honk. Steering wheel and horn button on, no honk. Battery hooked up, push horn button, HONK. loving awesome. No more stupid electrical bullshit. I don't understand how those pixies work so I'm glad they fell back in line. So here we go, moment of truth. Let's see if this fucker wants to start again after having slept for so long. Extinguisher at the ready, shot of starter fluid down it's throat, car in neutral (Won't crank in park. I don't know. Like that when I bought it.), beg for mercy, turn key. It cranks! A small cough as it pulled the fluid through and not much more other than cranking. poo poo. Little longer of a blast of the fluid, crank, small cough, second verse same as the first. Cranked on it for a bit and the battery stayed strong, but it never fired. Got under the hood and smelled no gas. I should, but I don't. Hm. Little gas from the can into a plastic cup and then right down the throat. Crank, almost fired, kept cranking, nada. Once more to confirm. More gas down the carb this time. Crank, actually sorta ran for a second while it drained the carb, dead. gently caress. Pretty sure I'm not getting any fuel. But hey! Mechanical! Beats electrical problems by a loving mile. I'm wondering if my carb's all gunked up from having e10 sit in it for however long it's been. No loving idea if it's ever been rebuilt. I need to pull the feed line off the carb and see if I'm getting any fuel out of that on crank. If I am, then the carb's getting rebuilt. If not... well I'll burn that bridge if I get to it. Thanks for the input guys. Until next time.
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Jun 24, 2017 23:37
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Rebuilding the carb definitely doesn't hurt, and probably should be done before you drive it regularly, but if your just starting it to see if it runs it shouldn't be needed. If I remember correctly you pulled the motor out at some point? If so you probably took the dist cap off and chances are your timing is way off which can make for hard starting. I would make sure you got fuel, then spark and proper firing order, then play with the timing a bit. If that doesn't get it to start then it's time for a carb rebuild. Love the thread and car btw!
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Jun 25, 2017 03:11
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I forget, what carb do you have on there? Does it have a sight glass in the float bowl?
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Jun 25, 2017 15:50
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Just stopping by to say that I binged this whole thread in one sitting. Coming from a guy that's really only hosed around with 240sx's and Subaru's with no knowledge of american classics this thread has been really interesting. I like your writing style keep it up.
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Jun 25, 2017 20:28
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mustard_tiger posted:Just stopping by to say that I binged this whole thread in one sitting. Coming from a guy that's really only hosed around with 240sx's and Subaru's with no knowledge of american classics this thread has been really interesting. I like your writing style keep it up. Thanks for looking Raluek posted:I forget, what carb do you have on there? Does it have a sight glass in the float bowl? Factory Rochester 2bbl from the 307 far as I can tell. I need to see if I can get a number off of it as it could technically be one of a few different models of their 2G/2GC/2GV. Edit: Rochester 2GV Number 7041110. Found a couple sites with rebuild kits from $33 to $36 shipped. Doesn't include a new float if I need one, but I'm kinda getting ahead of myself. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 25, 2017 22:28
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Carb doesn't work? Better ditch it for LSX power.
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Jun 26, 2017 08:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Carb doesn't work? Better ditch it for LSX power. That's the long term plan .
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Jun 26, 2017 14:08
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| # ? May 16, 2024 12:37 |
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Gentlemen, I do believe I need a fuel pump. Pulled the line off the carb, wrapped a rag around it underneath the orifice, hooked the battery up, and gave it some cranks. Bone dry. Pulled the soft feed line for the pump off the hard line from the tank (couldn't get it off the pump barb). Dry there, too. Pump's not even trying to suck it would seem. And yes, there is fuel in the tank. Pulled the pump off and was able to move the arm a little bit. I could hear it trying to move some air, but I don't really know how much action I should be seeing there. Not sure what kind of resistance the pump should be showing, either. Would you guys concur with no fuel out of the carb feed on crank, pump is borked? I can pick up a cheap pump, gasket, and a chunk of fuel line for probably 25 bucks. I'll try to get that done this weekend and get this turd fired back up. Then... ...maybe... ...movement?
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Jun 27, 2017 03:09
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