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Larrymer posted:You poor bastard. I bought the arms and the job still kind of sucked. Oh good, it's not just me. These ball joints really enjoy being imbedded in the knuckle. I decided to replace a a wheel bearing and thought a hard second about just buying a new knuckle. Alas, I am cheap and have to time to kill.
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Jun 26, 2017 04:36
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Boys who love boys
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I hope my freebie top loading washer and accompanying dryer never die. My neighbors gave them to me, they work great and have no problems, and I'd hate to have to replace the drat things.
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Jun 26, 2017 04:45
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The AACA museum in Hershey PA is a pro visit.   Huge variety of vehicles in all manner of condition, mostly unrestored but well preserved, but quite a few in rough "as found" shape. Most had stories about how they came to be in their current state - the above was my personal favorite. Also a huge Tucker exhibit with 3 complete cars, 2 test chassis where you can see the unconventional design laid bare, and about 6 engine prototypes along with a pile of memorabilia and original drawings. 
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Jun 26, 2017 05:10
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Pham Nuwen posted:I hope my freebie top loading washer and accompanying dryer never die. My neighbors gave them to me, they work great and have no problems, and I'd hate to have to replace the drat things. FTW mine that got thrown in with the house (maytag) 9 years ago and they were probably 5-10 years old at that point. Please keep going. I can afford new just don't want. Other chat my auger that has set a month with a full tank of tru-fuel would tn start today. Of course I only tried after 8-10 hours of fence work today but I am out of business on fence unless I can dig more holes and I gotta go down 3-4 feet.
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Jun 26, 2017 06:10
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I miss old washer dryers. At my last apartment, I had a stacked set of maytags (incl a gas dryer). They had a tag with a build date of 1983. Still going strong when I moved out in 2015. These were even the "digital" ones with a touch pad. I am pretty sure they'd never been repaired (or even pulled from their corner) based on what appeared to be an epic amount of dust behind them. When they say they don't make em like they used to, when it comes to washers and dryers that is true (except for speed queen and commercial). The washer used electricity like it was going out of style and the dryer wasn't exactly easy on the gas (but gas is cheap so, DGAF), but 32 years old. Also, loud as gently caress, which was an issue because they were in the kitchen and I had an open floor plan. nm fucked around with this message at 06:21 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 06:18
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InitialDave posted:Also, power. We don't run 110V here, as a side effect of which there's no such thing as a "dryer outlet", you just plug them in wherever, which means people site them where they want. At least for electric dryers, the ones we get do run on 220-240V (for the heater anyway, the motor and timer are usually 120V), and they're usually on pretty beefy circuits. The circuit breaker for my dryer outlet is 30 amps @ 240V (and I think that's pretty common for US electric dryer circuits). For comparison, my 2.5 ton (8800 kW) air conditioner is on a 20 amp @ 240V breaker. Aren't most UK outlets rated for up to 13 amps? FAT32 SHAMER posted:whirlpool are made here in michigan (though i'm sure all the parts are from china) I know the timer I bought for my parents washer a couple of years ago said MADE IN USA and had a Whirlpool logo on the box. ... but it was also for what's now a 20 year old washer, one that was a real Maytag, not a rebranded Whirlpool.  The only reason the box even had a Whirlpool logo is Whirlpool bought Maytag, and I guess they still make parts for original Maytags.ExplodingSims posted:Yeah, turns out the disconnect box failed, started throwing off sparks and shorted the transformer. Replaced the transformer and box and called the landlord. Gonna have an electrician out here soon to hopefully replace the breaker, because holy poo poo why didn't it trip. Stab Lok or Zinsco panel?  nm posted:I miss old washer dryers. At my last apartment, I had a stacked set of maytags (incl a gas dryer). They had a tag with a build date of 1983. Still going strong when I moved out in 2015. These were even the "digital" ones with a touch pad. I am pretty sure they'd never been repaired (or even pulled from their corner) based on what appeared to be an epic amount of dust behind them. Yeah, real Maytags are impossible to kill. My parents have the last of the real Maytags (designed and built by Maytag, before Whirlpool acquired them). In 20 years, the washer has needed a timer (2 years ago), and the dryer has needed a blower wheel (about 5 years ago). Those things will likely outlive my parents. Maybe me. If the transmission goes on an old Maytag washer though... it's enough of a pain in the rear end that it's not really worth fixing, IMO. I'm impressed that the electronics in those 1983 models still work. Parents went with the basic, no frills models with mechanical timers. Pham Nuwen posted:I hope my freebie top loading washer and accompanying dryer never die. My neighbors gave them to me, they work great and have no problems, and I'd hate to have to replace the drat things. If you don't care if they match, or how old they are, you can find W/D sets all day on Craigslist and facebook for $150 or less. There's a ton of used appliance shops that have basic sets for $150-300 on Craigslist here, generally with a 30-90 day warranty and sometimes with delivery included. If they're basic models, you can probably keep them going for ages until something expensive (transmission in the washer, for example) takes a poo poo. Someone had posted a pretty new (5 years old) matched Maytag set on a local facebook group today for $75, but they had to be picked up by 8pm. I saw the post at 11pm. Way to post bulky stuff for sale hours before you have to be out of the house.  I assume they're either sitting on a curb or someone snatched them up, they won't respond to messages.
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Jun 26, 2017 06:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I'm impressed that the electronics in those 1983 models still work. Parents went with the basic, no frills models with mechanical timers. I think the electronics just really simple and an incredibly over designed. just like everything else. My parents had an identical pair (electric dryer though) that lasted nearly 30 as well despite having a very bad vent situation. The next set has already been replaced with a bosch, which kind of sucks rear end. Dryer takes forever (the bosch dryer uses a ventless system like european dryers, to overcome the poor vent situation, which kind of sucks, but will hopefully last more than a few years).
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Jun 26, 2017 06:59
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Finished building up my new bike, and took it for a ride. It's the shiiiiiiiit. 
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Jun 26, 2017 07:00
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You're a whore eyebeem.
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Jun 26, 2017 07:01
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nm posted:I think the electronics just really simple and an incredibly over designed. just like everything else. My dryer vent in this apartment is literally a hole through the wall. Best I can tell, everyone who's lived here before just shoved the vent hose into that hole. I can see the trees outside if I look through, there's not even a flapper on the drat thing (there is a plastic grate though, and a halfassed rain guard). Let me tell you how fun it is when you find wasps in your kitchen with no idea how they got in, then you finally figure out they're coming in through there. I have a towel crammed into that hole for now. When I finally do get a dryer I'll probably put some chicken wire or something in there to try and keep anything from getting in. e: getting to it via outside isn't really an option... I'm on the 3rd floor. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 07:17
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nm posted:You're a whore eyebeem. Everyone deserves to bask in the grandeur.
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Jun 26, 2017 07:29
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:My dryer vent in this apartment is literally a hole through the wall. Best I can tell, everyone who's lived here before just shoved the vent hose into that hole. I can see the trees outside if I look through, there's not even a flapper on the drat thing (there is a plastic grate though, and a halfassed rain guard). Their vent problem had more to do with a long, previous owner run vent that had a million twists and turns for lint to get stuck in. It needed to be cleaned often and was difficult to clean. And there's really no where else to put the fucker short of an extensive remodel. My dryer vent is also a hole in the wall, but my dryer is on a semi enclosed service porch, so whatever.
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Jun 26, 2017 07:46
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Oh god. Yeah I had an apartment kinda like that. Maintenance could never figure out why I had to run the dryer through 3 full cycles to get anything dry, all they would do is check if it was getting hot, then say I was overloading it "cuz it's gettin plenty hot and they won't let me do nothin if it's hot" (the w/d came with the apartment). The vent was run as part of the original build, but it was a pretty long run (about 20 ft), with several bends. Upside is the kitchen vent hood was actually vented. That was the only apartment I've ever lived in that had a vent hood that actually vented instead of just recirculating; that, plus the Jenn Air stove (with grill insert!) was pretty nice. Too bad it's in a really bad area.. and they tore out the stoves long ago and put in typical 4 burner stuff. Probably normal 2 speed hoods too instead of the variable speed w/dimmers for the lights they had back then. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 07:59
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rdb posted:Those probably don't have the traditional agitator, at least my set of LGs don't, so they aren't really any older of a design then the front loaders. They clean well, don't easily develop odors because you can leave the lid open without tripping over it, and they are mechanically simple enough, fit in the same footprint, really I don't see the disadvantage. If a toploader doesn't have an agitator thingy, how does it move the clothes around and force water through them? A front loader uses gravity and a tumbling action to achieve that And it does have an agitator thingy, what stops your shirts from getting wrapped round it?
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Jun 26, 2017 08:22
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eyebeem posted:Finished building up my new bike, and took it for a ride. It's the shiiiiiiiit. I like how the wheels on that cost more than everything else on the bike put together.
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Jun 26, 2017 08:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:At least for electric dryers, the ones we get do run on 220-240V (for the heater anyway, the motor and timer are usually 120V), and they're usually on pretty beefy circuits. What on earth are they doing to make them need that kind of current? Olympic Mathlete posted:I like how the wheels on that cost more than everything else on the bike put together.
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Jun 26, 2017 09:26
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InitialDave posted:Ok, that's ridiculous. Yes, we just run ours on a single 13A plug for the entire machine. Hence no dedicated outlets. About the only things people run on dedicated circuits are ovens and water heaters. Presumably American machines have a 'cremate' cycle? Maybe it is the only way to get rid of barbecue sauce stains?
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Jun 26, 2017 09:41
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I like how the wheels on that cost more than everything else on the bike put together. Not even close to correct.
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Jun 26, 2017 09:42
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InitialDave posted:Ok, that's ridiculous. Yes, we just run ours on a single 13A plug for the entire machine. Hence no dedicated outlets. About the only things people run on dedicated circuits are ovens and water heaters. A beefy heating element. A typical full size household dryer here has a ~22 amp (at 240V) heating element. Add a little more for the motor. And the voltages may be a bit different if you're in a converted commercial building (i.e. formerly commercial, converted to residential, which is trendy these days) - if there's 3 phase service, the dryer may be running on 208, 240, or 277 volts (same for any other 240V appliances), so the amperage draw may be higher or lower. Most 240V residential appliances I've seen are rated to handle 208-240. Ours run on a single plug as well; since our residential 240 is just two 120 volt legs, 180 degrees out of sync, with an added neutral (and ground if you're in a newer place)... you can run both 120 and 240 volt equipment from that circuit. The timer and motor runs off of one leg, the heating element off of both legs. Our stoves/ovens run similarly. Any lighting, timers, electronics, etc are usually run off of one leg, while the actual heating elements are run off of 240. We over-complicate it a bit for some reason - I can understand why, say, lights, run off of 120 (since that's what our lighting and general use circuits are), never really understood why they didn't just build the rest for 240 though. FWIW, in my place (early 1980s 1 bedroom apartment), the stove/oven, water heater, furnace, dryer, and air conditioner have dedicated 240V circuits. A couple of 120V appliances have their own dedicated circuits, but that's more of an electrical code thing (they'd run fine on shared circuits, it's just not allowed). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 10:06
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eyebeem posted:Not even close to correct. Oh they're only Cobalt 3s? You cheapass... Also here's me thinking you'd done something cool and bought an old Ritchey frame instead of a 29er painted up like the oldschool.
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Jun 26, 2017 10:07
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Oh they're only Cobalt 3s? You cheapass... Next he's gonna remove the freehub and go vegan
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Jun 26, 2017 11:40
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Is that an ovoid loving chainring?
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Jun 26, 2017 11:40
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I like how the wheels on that cost more than everything else on the bike put together. I just feel bad for the energy expended in ensuring a proper fade, only to be blown up by the rear wheel spokes being red when they should be blue. 
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Jun 26, 2017 11:52
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EVERYWHERE 
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That and the bottle cages should really be swapped.
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Jun 26, 2017 12:01
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bolind posted:That and the bottle cages should really be swapped. I thought he was just trolling with that.
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Jun 26, 2017 12:05
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spog posted:If a toploader doesn't have an agitator thingy, how does it move the clothes around and force water through them? A front loader uses gravity and a tumbling action to achieve that The bottom of the tub moves in a different direction than the sides to sorta agitate it. It cleans just fine, even farm stains, it just takes a while to cycle. What i meant was it doesn't have the traditional white plastic agitator that goes all the way to the top of the drum. Makes it much larger on the inside, bedding is np. It is really sensitive to detergent, nothing seems to work half as good as tide he.
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Jun 26, 2017 12:29
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Next he's gonna remove the freehub and go vegan I enjoy how few fixies I see these days, I'm glad the fad is over.
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Jun 26, 2017 13:01
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I enjoy how few fixies I see these days, I'm glad the fad is over.
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Jun 26, 2017 13:50
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I enjoy how few fixies I see these days, I'm glad the fad is over. I've got a BikesDirect Motorbacon single speed with a flip flop hub and sometimes I ride it to work. It's a nice challenge to make you pay attention to everything... your cadence, your stopping distance, how long it takes to clip out, etc. It's certainly not a fashion statement, bit it's good as a skill-maintainer.
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Jun 26, 2017 13:53
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Yeah they can be a nice training aid for someone who actually rides a proper bike too but for the majority of people who bought them they're not fun. I've seen too many sketchy fuckers rolling around on bikes with no brakes on roads filled with idiot drivers and in the back of my mind I'm wondering if I'm going to witness a fatality.
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Jun 26, 2017 14:17
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Seminal Flu posted:Motorbacon single speed with a flip flop hub what in the gently caress
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Jun 26, 2017 14:25
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Adiabatic posted:what in the gently caress BikesDirect sells cheap bikes with good components and slaps legacy company branding on them. The companies have often been long out of business or relevance, but still have name recognition (so their trademarks can be bought very cheaply). In this case, Motobecane. It is a single speed bike with a rear hub that can be run freewheel (allowing it to coast) or flipped to run fixed (where the chain is fixed to the front and rear gears, making the pedals turn all the time the bike is moving, no coasting). Basically, it's a cheap bike that I picked up to try for less than the cost of the SKS fenders that were on it. It's a p good bike.
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Jun 26, 2017 14:33
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Had my first catastrophic oil change yesterday. I do the oil on my 04 mustang and 99 explorer all the time, the oil filter comes off by hand and gets tightened by hand, no problems. I helped my dad out with his 09 grand marquis which has the same engine as the mustang, so I thought hey easy! Oil filter was on there pretty tight from the last time the dealer did the oil, so I needed to use filter tool to get it off. Put the new one on and I tighten it by hand, I even get two hands on and to make sure its tight and its not going anywhere. Turn the engine on and whoops everything dumps out. Turns out hand tight was not ok on this car, so I got the tool on there and it did tighten a few more twists. After we filled it up the engine knocked for about 3 seconds until the oil started getting in there which had me super worried but everything seems ok now. Luckily because our driveway is lovely and uneven it didn't spill outside of the tarp it just pooled in the middle so we used a sponge to soak it up and dump it out. That was fun. Cage fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 14:36
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monsterzero posted:Oh good, it's not just me. These ball joints really enjoy being imbedded in the knuckle. I decided to replace a a wheel bearing and thought a hard second about just buying a new knuckle. I did the front control arms and tie rods, then later did the hubs. I didn't have the proper tools to break the taper on the ball joints or a press to knock the hub out of the knuckle. On a Michigan truck. I was absolutely exhausted from pounding on them with a 5lb hand sledge, and the 24mm CrMo impact socket that I used as my "arbor" to knock the hub out is about an inch shorter now.  I only had a propane torch and said hammer to pound on the control arms/knuckle to break the ball joint taper. It eventually worked. Work smarter, unlike Larrymer.
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Jun 26, 2017 14:39
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 my coworkers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-S...TIAAOSwFJBZTGky
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Jun 26, 2017 15:03
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I bought the cobalts off of Craigslist after finding that the wheelset I had planned to use for a while had a bum front hub and front rim. I got a killer deal on them and they will make an awesome spare wheelset. I have a custom whee build coming sometime in late July. Spank Oozy rims on hope pro 4 hubs. Blue rim on red hub, red rim on blue hub. White spokes. The goal is to eliminate everything black and boring on the bike. Still needs a ritchey wet white stem and wet red seatpost. As for the oval, it's what I run on all of my 1x bikes.
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Jun 26, 2017 15:10
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Seminal Flu posted:BikesDirect sells cheap bikes with good components and slaps legacy company branding on them. The companies have often been long out of business or relevance, but still have name recognition (so their trademarks can be bought very cheaply). In this case, Motobecane. It is a single speed bike with a rear hub that can be run freewheel (allowing it to coast) or flipped to run fixed (where the chain is fixed to the front and rear gears, making the pedals turn all the time the bike is moving, no coasting). Ohhh Motobecane. I thought there was seriously some hipster fixie bike company called Motorbacon.
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Jun 26, 2017 17:27
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Adiabatic posted:Ohhh Motobecane. I thought there was seriously some hipster fixie bike company called Motorbacon.
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Jun 26, 2017 17:28
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Cage posted:Humor! Oh gently caress he was making fun of the company god damnit. Shows how much I know about bicycles 
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Jun 26, 2017 17:31
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nm posted:Even so (though my maytags were musa), the design is just better. Yeah, I know. Just playing Devil's Advocate. FAT32 SHAMER posted:whirlpool are made here in michigan (though i'm sure all the parts are from china) That's why we bought a Whirlpool refrigerator. FAT32 SHAMER posted:whirlpool are made here in michigan (though i'm sure all the parts are from china) Might be worth it to, er, help it along, somehow. Pinhole in the coils, maybe? Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you don't care if they match, or how old they are, you can find W/D sets all day on Craigslist and facebook for $150 or less. There's a ton of used appliance shops that have basic sets for $150-300 on Craigslist here, generally with a 30-90 day warranty and sometimes with delivery included. If they're basic models, you can probably keep them going for ages until something expensive (transmission in the washer, for example) takes a poo poo. Our HE front loader set came from an appliance shop, for about $400, with the drawer stands. I don't even actually recall the brand at the moment, maybe GE? Anyway, a few settings on the dial don't work, but Normal, Delicate, and Heavy Duty do, so we're happy. Apparently you can replace the main board to fix it. It's about $150 to do so, so not completely outrageous, but the stuff that won't select are settings we only would want to use occasionally, if at all. I've had to plastic fix a bunch of the retainers for buttons and such on the main panel, because the plastic they used gets crispy (ABS of some sort), and replace a safety limit thermistor on the dryer (twice!), but they work fine. Appliance shop delivered, installed, and took the old units for the purchase price. A+, would buy again. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:e: getting to it via outside isn't really an option... I'm on the 3rd floor. Pussy. Cage posted:Had my first catastrophic oil change yesterday. I do the oil on my 04 mustang and 99 explorer all the time, the oil filter comes off by hand and gets tightened by hand, no problems. I helped my dad out with his 09 grand marquis which has the same engine as the mustang, so I thought hey easy! Oil filter was on there pretty tight from the last time the dealer did the oil, so I needed to use filter tool to get it off. Put the new one on and I tighten it by hand, I even get two hands on and to make sure its tight and its not going anywhere. Turn the engine on and whoops everything dumps out. Turns out hand tight was not ok on this car, so I got the tool on there and it did tighten a few more twists. After we filled it up the engine knocked for about 3 seconds until the oil started getting in there which had me super worried but everything seems ok now. Hand tight should be good enough (your hand may vary, I suppose.) Maybe take a look at it again if you get a chance. Something might be wonky. One of the idler pulleys on my Crown Vic has been intermittently squeaking for a while. Finally got on Rock Auto, etc and checked prices. Eh, cheap enough, so I bought both from Amazon because Prime. An also cheaper. I'll replace the easy one (fixed idler) first, and then the one on the tensioner if that doesn't get it. edit: Thank you, added to watch list. edit 2: eyebeem posted:I bought the cobalts off of Craigslist after finding that the wheelset I had planned to use for a while had a bum front hub and front rim. I got a killer deal on them and they will make an awesome spare wheelset. You're... making up manufacturer names, right? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 17:48
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