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VolatileSky posted:After a few days this thing came together really quickly. I wanted a really tall and uniquely profiled vehicle, and was really inspired by that guy that makes that Navigator Household themed army from bits. Also m.ak. stuff from Japanese modellers. This inspires me. I'm picturing it as a massive hover-podium for some high ranking iterator or commissar to shout inspiring doctrines and laws over, as rank upon rank of militarum march to the tempo of righteous victory. It makes me want to make something similar for my noise marine squads. 
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Jun 28, 2017 20:19
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| # ? May 9, 2024 13:02 |
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Crosspost from the 40k thread. Rebased everything from 25mm to 32mm bases, and painted some primaris.      
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Jun 28, 2017 23:15
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drat Booley, that's a sharp looking army! While my photo setup and most of my paints are all packed up, I was able to hash these Prometheum Pipes out today:  It felt so drat good just to paint something again, I tell you what.
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Jun 29, 2017 04:02
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Those are some bitchin' BAngels.
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Jun 29, 2017 05:03
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Tonight's progress. My first AoS models, need to get them plus my chaos lord done by Monday to start an escalation league. Left to do: Cloth, fur, horns, bones, horses, leather, basing, cleanup, and trying to freehand some nurgle symbols on the banners. Doing a generic studio scheme for now to get it done quickly, might try to nurgle them up later with some yellow and green washes or something.
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Jun 29, 2017 06:46
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What do people use as a black backdrop when taking pictures? I have some black paper but it's too reflective. I'd much prefer the background to just look pitch black.
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Jun 29, 2017 11:52
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Electric Hobo posted:What do people use as a black backdrop when taking pictures? I have some black paper but it's too reflective. I'd much prefer the background to just look pitch black. matte black cloth, put your lights on the sides of the model, bounce light back into the miniature with a reflective white surface below. 
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Jun 29, 2017 12:38
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Yeast posted:matte black cloth, put your lights on the sides of the model, bounce light back into the miniature with a reflective white surface below.
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Jun 29, 2017 13:19
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Yeast posted:matte black cloth, put your lights on the sides of the model, bounce light back into the miniature with a reflective white surface below. Could you take a pic of the setup and not just the model? I too think I get it, but a pic would help.
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Jun 29, 2017 15:07
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If your life is given in service to the Emperor, your death shall not be in vain.    Finished the Chaplain. I'm pretty happy with how he turned out, but I actually ended up doing a lot more work on him than I though would take and I don't think it particularly paid off. Specifically, the armor was a mix of 60/40 Dark Prussian Blue and Black (VGC). It just looks black to me. I'm also thinking of hitting it with a satin medium, just to give it a semi-shine, as I think it's too dull at the moment. This was also my first shot at doing scratches. I think I'm doing it right - lighter color for the scratch, with a dark highlight underneath, right? It's a bit hard on black armor.
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Jun 29, 2017 15:51
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Electric Hobo posted:What do people use as a black backdrop when taking pictures? I have some black paper but it's too reflective. I'd much prefer the background to just look pitch black. Black velvet is the best, since it's almost perfectly anti reflective. A decent theatrical grade piece will almost nullify even infra red.
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Jun 29, 2017 17:19
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Xaerael posted:Black velvet is the best, since it's almost perfectly anti reflective. A decent theatrical grade piece will almost nullify even infra red. Just lol if you don't have a cardboard box covered in Vantablack
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Jun 29, 2017 22:06
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Electric Hobo posted:What do people use as a black backdrop when taking pictures? I have some black paper but it's too reflective. I'd much prefer the background to just look pitch black. Yeast posted:matte black cloth, put your lights on the sides of the model, bounce light back into the miniature with a reflective white surface below. This right here is wisdom. I went through a lot of testing to figure out you can't just stand your min on a black backdrop without creating heavy shadows. Standing the model on a reflective surface (mine is a black frosted glass panel) lets you bounce enough light back to light up the model.  My setup is a little darker than Yeast's, but I like the effect on my dudes.
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Jun 30, 2017 00:06
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Yeah I'm cheating in that I'm a professional photographer by trade, so when I can be bothered my models get shot with studio flashes and light modifiers like in that image. But- the same effect can be made with daylight balanced bulbs and some baking / wax paper over them to diffuse the light. I'll sketch out the setup when I get home, or take a photo of the next one I shoot.
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Jun 30, 2017 00:23
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Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete! Dubbing this guy Ghost Prider Silhouette fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jun 30, 2017 |
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Jun 30, 2017 01:02
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So to solder something small that needs some accuracy or atleast to be relatively even, the easiest way i could figure is to make a jig. Carefully measured out the platform it's being attached to, and then drew the outline that I could just follow by laying my wire on it and bending (very carefully). This is the jig for the railing at the top of the vehicle, but sensor masts, guards, can all be done this way. Holes are then drilled for the posts, and are then set into place at a uniform depth. It's at this point I find out that stainless steel wire, does not take enough heat to allow anything to solder to it with just an electric iron. You would need to use a torch, and this is 1/16" thick, so I was not expecting this issue. All railings were bent again using paper clips. This also kinda hosed up my good iron by over heating from trying to heat the wire enough. Tiny alligator clips were a godsend in holding the railing while I soldered the points that matched up, then aligned up the next point...and so on. For 24 joints  One other error I made was trying to drill matching holes on the top of the platform to get it really seated in. I misaligned the back half, so instead I had to make tiny cut offs of plastic tubes to cover the bottom of each railing post and attache it that way with superglue. (which thankfully the tubes were just large enough to cover my mistake of several holes drilled slightly out of place. Tiny tubes cut at an angle to hide my mistake. Only needed a dozen! (Honestly that's not bad in recovering from and fixing a mistake like that)   From here I made one antenna array + flag pole, and magnetised the bottom, so it can be a bit more tolerant of getting transported and abused. This part is pretty straight forward, but for the banner pole, I'm thinking I'll try using a printer to print some suitably emperor adoring art on actual fabric.    I don't usually make progress shots except at noticeably dramatic build stages, since I feel like it's subjecting everyone to an adventure through ocd-land as I detail cutting plastic, glueing 500 rivets individually, or explain the tribulations of soldering paperclips.
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Jun 30, 2017 09:12
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That thing owns a whole lot. Weapons wise i always imagine the front opening up, exposing the reactor and bathing everything vaguely in front of it in radiation. Maybe with a skeleton chained to the core. Might not be a good idea tactically but that never stopped anyone in 40k.
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Jun 30, 2017 10:06
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I put what you all said together and pulled Ghost Prider back out. Then I forgot to turn on macro so it's blurry as hell, but the background is the whole point here. Not too bad. I used an old t-shirt and a black Steel Pad from when I was an annoying gamer kid instead of an annoying mini painting grown man.
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Jun 30, 2017 11:35
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 Still experimenting with the mod podge water effect. That's just layer 1.
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Jun 30, 2017 13:32
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So I finished Haklfem Skuttlespike on Monday:    First Skaven I've ever painted. Tons of fun to paint, though. Forge World is really nailing it with all these Star Player models. I also put sponsons on all my "ordnance" Leman Russes:  Now I can work on my Primaris Marines!
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Jun 30, 2017 21:09
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VolatileSky posted:I don't usually make progress shots except at noticeably dramatic build stages, since I feel like it's subjecting everyone to an adventure through ocd-land as I detail cutting plastic, glueing 500 rivets individually, or explain the tribulations of soldering paperclips. Bathe us in your build log.You got some nice ham-craft there, and I love watching progress on stuff, especially when it's this  !
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Jul 1, 2017 00:52
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Sooooo, I'm taking some photographs of some miniatures to sell them online. But here's the problem: I'm getting just awful results. It's not that they're under-illuminated; it's that the Foldio lightbox that I'm using creates such sharp lighting that it puts pretty heavy shadow on everything that I'm taking pictures of. Case in point:   So, just for instance: The black background is lit up so brightly that it's picking out the little scraps of white primer left behind on the black background. The shadows are heavy behind the miniatures. Look at, for instance, Bulbasaur's miniatures, or Electric Hobo's Ghost Prider and you see none of those problems. I'm thinking that it's because I have the LED lights too high, or I've got the Foldio misconfigured; I suspect I might even have it upside down, or that the LED lights are meant to "fold in" instead of staying rigid. (There were not a lot of instructions with the Foldio.)  Any suggestions?
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Jul 1, 2017 02:09
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Getting back into wargaming and painting after about fifteen years and painted up this Blood Ravens Primaris Captain. I wanted a super metallic basecoat so I went with a Tamiya metallic spray, turned out pretty much how I wanted. Any comments or pointers would be awesome, I have another fifty to paint  
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Jul 1, 2017 03:56
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Darren MacLennan posted:Sooooo, I'm taking some photographs of some miniatures to sell them online. It's trial and error in my opinion, but I found that a slow exposure with less harsh lighting is better than a fast one with super bright lights. For the black backdrop I think your missing either a proper flash or turning your lights down and using a reflective surface on the button.
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Jul 1, 2017 04:44
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Xpost from the 40k thread. I found this box buried under a bunch of other stuff while cleaning out my warhams shelves: Still haven't found a proper replacement, so I'm thanking past-me for this cache.
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Jul 1, 2017 07:23
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Still having trouble matching the new Citadel Death Guard Green to a Vallejo air color. The Reaper's powerpalette thing matches Death Guard Green to their Ghoul Skin, but I can't find a Ghoul Skin equivalent in Vallejo either. I just want to know which of their 12 shades of slightly green-ish khaki to get.
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Jul 1, 2017 08:12
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mango sentinel posted:Still having trouble matching the new Citadel Death Guard Green to a Vallejo air color. The Reaper's powerpalette thing matches Death Guard Green to their Ghoul Skin, but I can't find a Ghoul Skin equivalent in Vallejo either. I just want to know which of their 12 shades of slightly green-ish khaki to get. Ghoul skin seems to match with Vmc stone grey or vgc heavy warm grey. Why not just use the reaper color? They airbrush great.
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Jul 1, 2017 08:42
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Tadhg posted:Xpost from the 40k thread. I found this box buried under a bunch of other stuff while cleaning out my warhams shelves: You fucker. I'm coming for you.
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Jul 1, 2017 09:29
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X-posting my Bone Giant:  
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Jul 1, 2017 15:43
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:X-posting my Bone Giant: Way cool. I love the verdigris wash.
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Jul 1, 2017 16:12
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Hey SRM - I've been considering a project with retro ultras colour scheme on modern minis, with grimdark weathering and basing, for a long time. The Primaris minis may be the inspiration I need to get it started. Would you mind sharing some of your retro ultras wisdom? What ranges of paints did you use to get that saturated look?
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Jul 1, 2017 17:04
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Tadhg posted:Xpost from the 40k thread. I found this box buried under a bunch of other stuff while cleaning out my warhams shelves: I am so jealous right now.
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Jul 1, 2017 17:30
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:X-posting my Bone Giant The desert bases you are doing look great. How are you doing them?
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Jul 1, 2017 17:37
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bonds0097 posted:Way cool. I love the verdigris wash. Thanks  Skails posted:The desert bases you are doing look great. How are you doing them? Thanks! The ones on my skellies are actually just resin ones from microart studios. For the Giant I tried to emulate that same look, I used agrellan badland to sculpt the dunes and then just glued sand over everything.
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Jul 1, 2017 17:47
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Thanks bonds, I'll try the Reaper, I'm still new to airbrushing and am unsure about mixing for it, but I mostly want something already in a dropper. Related, for you monsters like Chrirugeon who prime on sprue, tell me your techniques for doing so. I want to start doing so with characters.
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Jul 1, 2017 17:52
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I'm also interested in priming on sprue, particularly how you would handle zenithal style. (I've got some Chaos Marine shoulderpads I haven't cut free yet, and I'm thinking it might be easier to just leave them on there and then glue them onto the finished posed dudes.) Meanwhile, it's Oath Crosspostin' Time!  Dr. Gargunza posted:Oath Complete! And as promised, here are the solo pics of these guys. Note the big old line of dried paint on the flag where I got way too zealous with the painter's tape and couldn't be bothered/ran out of time to fix it.     The orc drumhead is made from the skin of most of a person. The body of the drum is a base coat of Vallejo Black Red, followed by progressively smaller washes of Bloodletter to build up the rounded appearance. Really simple, though for some reason the effect isn't as obvious in some if these pics.
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Jul 1, 2017 18:23
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That Black Orc is ridiculously awesome.
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Jul 1, 2017 18:57
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mango sentinel posted:Thanks bonds, I'll try the Reaper, I'm still new to airbrushing and am unsure about mixing for it, but I mostly want something already in a dropper. Reaper paints are thinner than VMC/VGC but not as thin as VGA/VMA. I find that a drop of thinner and flow improver for 5 or so drops of reaper paints work well. I've been doing a lot of airbrushing with the Reaper HDs as well and really like 'em.
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Jul 1, 2017 23:09
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ineptmule posted:That Black Orc is ridiculously awesome. Thanks! I saw this guy and immediately thought "yep, that's gonna need the old Rankin-Bass animated Hobbit treatment." The skin was actually pretty easy; it's a base of VMC German Fieldgrey, midtone of P3 Traitor Green, washed with GW Athonian Camoshade and highlighted with P3 Cryx Bane Highlight. (The Athonian also looked really nice over just zenithal priming, but not so much over the black primer.)
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Jul 1, 2017 23:22
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| # ? May 9, 2024 13:02 |
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Welp, that serious boner giant and stoic Orc are going to be hard to follow but I gotta try. Thread, meet Sern, the Barbarian Treasure Hunter      Before joining the warband, he often would traverse the other side of the mountains and into the lowlands, pursuing rumours of treasure and taking bounties on criminals and beasts, alike. His last outing, however, while fruitful, was not without incident. Having drawn the ire of a goblin horde, he retreated as quickly as he could back to town, to spend his promised payment on his new sword, expensive dyes and a new horse.  "And that shaman that I left on his arse? Well, he didn't much appreciate that and er... if you're ever planning on a trip to New Brough, I'd give it a miss. At least for a few years..."
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Jul 2, 2017 02:40
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