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Deteriorata posted:Depends on the car. Some of them can get pretty expensive. Sensors for automatic lights and wipers are usually glued to the glass and have to be replaced along with the glass. That's true but that isn't the case for his car. You can see that by the fact that it's only $317. Like I said.
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Jun 30, 2017 16:48
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I'll probably end up replacing mine due to pitting, haven't gotten an estimate yet. Is it a dumb waste of money? Anyone else replace purely due to pitting and not cracks? I wonder what it's like to be wealthy and not have to worry about the decision to keep everything in perfect shape. Talked to Geico and glass waivers are available based on state, not available in IL. It's purely comprehensive coverage. So there's one fraudulent thing you could do which is switch ded. to 0, then report the damage. Wouldn't work for me since I already talked about the damage on the phone with Geico. If I've thought of that, I'm sure people do it all the time and drive rates up 
Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jun 30, 2017 |
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Jun 30, 2017 17:07
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Michael Scott posted:I'll probably end up replacing mine due to pitting, haven't gotten an estimate yet. Is it a dumb waste of money? Anyone else replace purely due to pitting and not cracks? At some point the pitting becomes dangerous, and glare from oncoming traffic could make it hard to see at night.
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Jun 30, 2017 17:09
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Michael Scott posted:I'll probably end up replacing mine due to pitting, haven't gotten an estimate yet. Is it a dumb waste of money? Anyone else replace purely due to pitting and not cracks? Having a clear windshield is a godsend in driving. If the pitting is distracting, get it fixed. You'll thank yourself afterward.
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Jun 30, 2017 17:11
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Part exchanged my old Golf for a 2017 model. Is it necessary to "break in" the engine? Salesman at the dealership said I can just drive it normally, but he seemed like a bit of a dumbass who'd say anything just to get me the gently caress out, as he clearly wanted to move onto people who he could make money off of. I've noticed everything feels very floaty, and the engine will judder far more than I'm used to when I put it into 2nd gear from 1st gear. My old Golf, I'd go from 1st to 2nd and it'd be smooth, but the new one sorta judders, even if I change at the right RPM. I've toted that down to the engine being new and just needing to be broken in, but I've got no idea if that's a requirement for modern cars what with all the advances we've made in machining tolerances. It's the same for 2nd to 3rd, the RPM needle will judder far more than I'm used to and make the driving experience a bit shaky. I'm sorta self conscious about picking passengers up cause it's made my driving seem rather poo poo, even though I'm driving the same way I've always driven. I've also noticed I'm getting rather ludicrous MPG readouts. Before, driving around the city on the dual carriageway at 40mph, I'd get about 47-53mpg. The new car, it prompts me to go to 4th gear and the mpg jumps up to about 100, which I find hard to believe. So yeah, engine / break / tyre break in period for a 2017 model. Fact or fiction? And if there is, how many miles do I need to break it in for? I had a look through the Golf manual but couldn't find anything pertaining to a break-in period. I really wanna drive up to Scotland and crash in some hostels for a week or two, but that's a long distance at a solid speed so I don't wanna cause unnecessary problems.
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Jul 1, 2017 01:49
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I don't know what better way to break in an engine than to drive it for long distances at a single speed. I don't think you'd need to worry about "breaking it in" to be honest, maybe read some reviews for the 2017 golf and see if everyone is having that experience or if you need to exchange it asap.
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Jul 1, 2017 01:58
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Breakfast Feud posted:I don't know what better way to break in an engine than to drive it for long distances at a single speed. I don't think you'd need to worry about "breaking it in" to be honest, maybe read some reviews for the 2017 golf and see if everyone is having that experience or if you need to exchange it asap. It's frustrating, cause all the research I've done just dredges up posts from back in 2014 and earlier, and people are of the mindset that it's worth breaking in a car properly. I'm stuck with this car for the next 3 or 4 years, so I'd like to treat it well now, to ensure it treats me well down the line. That being said, I've heard driving long distances at set RPM (with little variance) is actually super bad, because it doesn't give a dynamic enough range to properly break in the car. Whereas varying engine RPM is the best method to break in a car. That being said, ain't no way I'm doing a 5 hour drive to Scotland constantly changing my engine RPM, I'd be braindead by the time I arrived. Qubee fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 02:05
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Q8ee posted:It's frustrating, cause all the research I've done just dredges up posts from back in 2014 and earlier, and people are of the mindset that it's worth breaking in a car properly. I'm stuck with this car for the next 3 or 4 years, so I'd like to treat it well now, to ensure it treats me well down the line. That being said, I've heard driving long distances at set RPM (with little variance) is actually super bad, because it doesn't give a dynamic enough range to properly break in the car. Whereas varying engine RPM is the best method to break in a car. Did you read your manual? It will have a section on engine break-in. Follow it. VVVVVV PTTTHHHHHHHPPP
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Jul 1, 2017 02:14
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Did you read the manual? Every owner's manual I've ever had addresses that question. E: ^You bastard! Breakfast Feud posted:I don't know what better way to break in an engine than to drive it for long distances at a single speed. This is like the one thing you're not supposed to do.
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Jul 1, 2017 02:14
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Q8ee, what happens if you shift at higher RPMs? If it doesn't lug the engine as bad, just shift higher. The upshift light on my car wants me to shift by 2000 RPM (on a gasoline 4 cylinder), sometimes as low as 1500 RPM, and it's very obvious that the car is not happy about it when I follow the advice of the upshift indicator. The MPG also drops significantly when I follow its advice. Break in is generally finished within 500 miles on newer stuff. Really, just driving it around town for a couple of weeks should get it broken in. The 100 mpg sounds like you have it showing instant MPG instead of average MPG - most car computers will max out at 99.9 MPG if you're coasting. Ignore instant MPG and switch to average. If it's showing that on average, just give it time - it needs to be driven a bit before it can figure out actual MPG. Breakfast Feud posted:I don't know what better way to break in an engine than to drive it for long distances at a single speed. That's exactly the worst way to break in an engine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 02:15
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I tried finding the section in the manual, scoured through it and had no luck. I'll try and hunt it down again, but I read it back to front and found nada. I read the manual back to front when I first got it cause I wanted to figure out all the new poo poo that came in the car. I typically shift just under 3000RPM, and that brings me in just above 2000RPM and has always worked well for me in my old car. The new car doesn't seem to like it that much, but even revving higher and changing gears at 3,500RPM causes the juttering. I dunno why. I do have it showing instant MPG instead of average. Like I said, the old car seemed accurate and would show me doing 50mpg which is somewhat believable. The new car shows 100mpg when I'm not coasting. I'll have the accelerator pressed down to maintain 40mph and it stays solidly at 100mpg. Maybe I'm just overthinking it but it just seems weird. The juttering and floatiness also feels off, but I've never had a brand new car before so I don't know whether that's normal or not. Update: I forgot to mention, shifting up in gear makes the RPM needle spaz out a little bit. My old Golf was a gem, she'd have a steady RPM needle when I shifted up a gear. The new one, I'll shift up a gear, and the needle will rise a bit and then quickly drop (maybe by a unit of 100) and then rise back up, causing the juddering. Qubee fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 02:37
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Most cars don't have any specific break-in instructions. They're good to go from the start. What I have seen reported, and noticed myself, was a distinct pick-up in performance at 1000 miles, as though the ECU was running its own programmed break-in period. I've not seen any confirmation that it's actually in the software, but it wouldn't surprise me.
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Jul 1, 2017 02:50
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Deteriorata posted:Most cars don't have any specific break-in instructions. They're good to go from the start. This is incorrect, sorry bud. Look in any owner's manual. What is true is that a majority of buyers will probably not follow the steps, so there is built-in tolerance.
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Jul 1, 2017 03:02
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Michael Scott posted:This is incorrect, sorry bud. Look in any owner's manual. What is true is that a majority of buyers will probably not follow the steps, so there is built-in tolerance. Nearly every owner's manual says "there are no special break-in procedures" or something to that effect. This is what it says in my 124's manual:  Most of that applies to any age of engine.
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Jul 1, 2017 03:17
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My Ion's manual has this: I'm guessing the PO of my car didn't do anything stupid when it was new - almost 200k and it uses about 1.5 quarts of oil between 9k oil changes (or 5 quarts if I use Supertech...)
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Jul 1, 2017 03:23
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Thanks for all the help guys. Those two images you guys above posted helped. Will definitely try and find my manual instructions. Downshifting to brake or slow the car is such a hard habit to break, but I'll try to refrain from doing that from now on as well.
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Jul 1, 2017 03:25
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Honestly though on a trip you're bound to start/stop, go through turns and you'll see some variation of RPM. Yeah you shouldn't put cruise control on and leave it in a straight line but I'm guessing the trip to Scotland has like, curves and dips and stops that'll keep the drive dynamic enough to be a good break in, not like driving straight across the prairies.
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Jul 1, 2017 03:46
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Breakfast Feud posted:Honestly though on a trip you're bound to start/stop, go through turns and you'll see some variation of RPM. Yeah you shouldn't put cruise control on and leave it in a straight line but I'm guessing the trip to Scotland has like, curves and dips and stops that'll keep the drive dynamic enough to be a good break in, not like driving straight across the prairies. Something else I've done is alternate periodically between the top two gears. That changes the engine's RPMs regularly, at least.
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Jul 1, 2017 03:50
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Breakfast Feud posted:Honestly though on a trip you're bound to start/stop, go through turns and you'll see some variation of RPM. Yeah you shouldn't put cruise control on and leave it in a straight line but I'm guessing the trip to Scotland has like, curves and dips and stops that'll keep the drive dynamic enough to be a good break in, not like driving straight across the prairies. I think you might just be right about that. I'm itching to get out and a drive on the winding roads would be great I reckon. No cruise control. Stop off at a few villages on the way. Deteriorata posted:Something else I've done is alternate periodically between the top two gears. That changes the engine's RPMs regularly, at least. I was originally gonna alternate between 60mph and 70mph but changing between 4th and 5th gear seems way easier.
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Jul 1, 2017 03:53
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My grandma had new window motors + regulators put in her shitbox of a Plymouth van and a month later the slide on the driver's side keeps going off the top of the track when you roll the window up. After a couple days the window drops just enough to whistle and when you try to roll it up that's the end of it. What can be done to stop this?
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Jul 1, 2017 04:13
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dis astranagant posted:My grandma had new window motors + regulators put in her shitbox of a Plymouth van and a month later the slide on the driver's side keeps going off the top of the track when you roll the window up. After a couple days the window drops just enough to whistle and when you try to roll it up that's the end of it. What can be done to stop this? Take it back to the place that did the work and have them do it right.
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Jul 1, 2017 04:14
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Q8ee posted:I think you might just be right about that. I'm itching to get out and a drive on the winding roads would be great I reckon. No cruise control. Stop off at a few villages on the way. I'm all for this idea. It's a new car, go drive it. You're going to run into traffic and if you have fun through turns you'll be working the engine through its paces. Put in a few stops and slow spots and I think it'll be a good break in.
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Jul 1, 2017 04:18
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Q8ee posted:Thanks for all the help guys. Those two images you guys above posted helped. Will definitely try and find my manual instructions. Downshifting to brake or slow the car is such a hard habit to break, but I'll try to refrain from doing that from now on as well. IMO, you shouldn't be downshifting to slow down or brake in general. It puts more wear on your clutch, and clutches cost a lot more to replace than brakes. That goes out the window if you're going downhill though - absolutely downshift to maintain speed when you're going down a hill, if the alternative is having to use the brakes constantly. Overheated brakes are bad. Q8ee posted:I think you might just be right about that. I'm itching to get out and a drive on the winding roads would be great I reckon. No cruise control. Stop off at a few villages on the way. I would think winding roads would require a bit of speeding up/slowing down anyway, right? Sounds like a good way to break it in!
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Jul 1, 2017 04:21
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:IMO, you shouldn't be downshifting to slow down or brake in general. It puts more wear on your clutch, and clutches cost a lot more to replace than brakes. Is this true? It's just a regular shift isn't it? https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear I don't know how to drive manual but I downshift in my shiftable automatic to slow down on exit ramps etc without hitting the brakes too much. That bad? Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 07:24
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Michael Scott posted:Is this true? It's just a regular shift isn't it? https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear I read that as well and took what the poster in this thread said with a pinch of salt. I'm still gonna downshift to use the engine to help slow down, but probably not as much as I've been doing. My dad showed me the technique in America when we were going down some bigass mountains (since it stops the brakes from overheating) and it has stuck with me ever since, so I'm always using the engine to slow down if I can, as opposed to the brakes. Wish me luck, going to the dealership today to try and nab my mats that they were meant to throw in for free, but they forgot about. They're telling me it's not on the order form, despite the fact I know it was discussed in person and was going to be thrown in "for free" as a gesture of good will, since I had offers from other dealerships at the time. If they start pulling the "it's not on the order form, we can't" nonsense, I'ma have to tear some people a new rear end in a top hat. Seriously bad form.
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Jul 1, 2017 07:43
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Michael Scott posted:Is this true? It's just a regular shift isn't it? https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear Automatic transmissions are constructed differently and don’t have clutches as such.
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Jul 1, 2017 07:44
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On a long overpass, yes. But around the city? gently caress no. Brakes are cheaper than engine parts. "That poster" holy lol
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Jul 1, 2017 08:45
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Michael Scott posted:Is this true? It's just a regular shift isn't it? https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/does-downshifting-engine-braking-cause-extra-wear-and-tear May or may not be explicitly "bad" depending on your trans, but it's outside of normal operating procedure and is not what an automatic is designed to do. But a new set of brake pads costs tens of dollars. Replacing a prematurely worn transmission is thousands. With the exception of safety concerns for overheating brakes on mountains, let your brakes be your brakes. Your transmission is programmed to do what it needs to do while you're slowing normally.
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Jul 1, 2017 12:45
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:IMO, you shouldn't be downshifting to slow down or brake in general. It puts more wear on your clutch, and clutches cost a lot more to replace than brakes. I wouldn't bother on an auto, though.
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Jul 1, 2017 13:18
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InitialDave posted:No, it's absolutely fine as long as you make some effort to do it smoothly and rev match. I would think any clutch wear would come from the bit of slip during engagement and disengagement. If there's any wear going on while it's in gear, your clutch is already shot.
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Jul 1, 2017 14:26
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I'd rather change my brakes five times than the clutch once.
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Jul 1, 2017 15:43
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Godholio posted:I'd rather change my brakes five times than the clutch once. Even drum brakes.
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Jul 1, 2017 15:57
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InitialDave posted:No, it's absolutely fine as long as you make some effort to do it smoothly and rev match. Why wouldn't you bother though? It's fun coming nearly to a stop, going through the gears from 7 or 8 to 1 coming off an exit ramp. Maybe I'll stop and just use the brakes, I don't want to do them myself and a 4-way brake job on this car is like $1,500 lol. I don't have a close garage, ramps, tools, expertise, or knowledgable friends. Should get some of those. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 16:52
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Because I can't be arsed with trying to get an auto to behave like a manual most of the time. VVVV: Basically this. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 19:26
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If you like downshifting buy a manual. Then downshift properly and don't worry about clutches imo
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Jul 1, 2017 19:36
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 09 Subaru Outback with the EZ30. I'm not sure really where to start with this. My wife has been having the 1-3-5 bank misfire on her about once a month this year. Recently, it started happening every two weeks. Most recently, it had both banks misfire. The car only has a little more than 50k miles on it. These are the only codes, all the sensors pass the test except the evap monitor, which erred for some reason (see below). Soon after we bought this car for her last year we put in a new battery. Someone on the Outback forums said that they once had a battery with a bad cell cause misfires like this for them, so I might try swapping that out, but it seems highly unlikely. I'm otherwise concerned that it could be cats, head gasket, knock sensor, timing issues, valve issues, carbon buildup, electrical and/or grounding issues, etc. There are so many possibilities that I just don't know where to begin. A can of Seafoam and a new battery feel like barking up the wrong tree. PS: I've been clearing the codes after pulling them from the car. Am I correct that if the car was continually misfiring, it'd generate new codes right away? Or is there some period of time after clearing the codes where new ones don't register right away? code:blk fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 1, 2017 |
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Jul 1, 2017 21:07
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Is there anything about the EP3 Civic Si that makes it not a good DD for <$3k? Seems like no one wants them due to the suspension design, looks, and K20A3.
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Jul 1, 2017 21:43
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Wait.. it's actually running? As in the engine is happily idling away and still responds to the throttle? Or is it something like the radiator fan staying on for a couple of minutes? poo poo I thought I had saved this thread. It sounds like a fan issue, poo poo. Also today the AC went from nice and cold to hot, then after about 5 minutes, back to cold. I have an appt at PepBoys tomorrow. How bad am I looking price-wise? No one else around me is open Sunday and today's book everywhere.
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Jul 1, 2017 21:51
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Hey goons! I'm going to South Korea for a couple weeks in October, any cool car stuff I can see/do with my father in law?
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Jul 1, 2017 22:08
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monsterzero posted:Do springs really go bad? Maybe they do if you head-butt them. I get doing a quick strut (because quick) but I don't think I've ever known anyone to replace spring unless they were lowering or sportifying the car. Yeah, they can, plus my car sags a bit on the driver side. I don't necessarily have the stereotypical mountain dew drinking goon physique, but I could probably stand to lose about 25 pounds or so. Also, I kinda flop in to the car. A few years of doing that and well...... The driver side is a bit saggier than the passenger side. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It's usually quicker to swap the complete assembly. If you're paying a shop to do it, it often winds up being cheaper overall to swap each corner as an assembly. If you're doing it yourself, it's still easier to just swap the entire assembly. Safer too. I'd totally go for the quick struts, but I don't like the idea of getting the cheap assed quick struts that are available for it. I don't care about m4d s1ck handling and slamming that poo poo, I'm getting to be an old dude and stock ride height/quality would be perfectly acceptable for me. I can't seem to find the quick struts for all four corners, that come from a somewhat reputable brand. My current outlook is that I'm going to have this car for a few more years. I'd like to buy something that'll be good for at least that. If I was going to sell it next week, I'd go with the cheap stuff.
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Jul 1, 2017 22:12
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