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Admiral H. Curtiss posted:Is there anything I can do if a wireless network in my vicinity insists on picking the same SSID as my network? It seems like it's trying to steal my WPA key (I connected to it from a live Linux for investigation and it redirects all HTTP requests to a page that wants you to enter a WLAN WPA key), and it wouldn't even really bother me, but every device stops connecting to my real wireless network as soon as they find the second one with the same SSID. Are you sure it's not just a second radio on your own router or maybe a wireless extender that's misconfigured or something? It's often easy to assume something benign is malicious if you can't figure out what's doing it. The alternative is that someone's actually trying to mess with you. Making their SSID the same as yours isn't really effective, there's simpler ways to crack a wifi network, you can literally google the steps and software you need to use to capture someone's wifi authentication and attempt to decrypt it. Since they're just copying an SSID it may just be someone trying to harass you. You could go full goon and turn your home into a faraday cage. Alternatively, find the neighbor who is an rear end in a top hat and ask them to stop. If the signal is stronger than your router's, it's probably either very close or someone's using a directional antenna which won't be strong in both directions. There's a lot of possibilities, are you in an apartment complex?
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Jul 2, 2017 18:57
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Yeah, the misconfigured extender also crossed my mind, but it's hard to say without finding the source. I am indeed in an apartment complex. My signal strength is higher than the other network's; I'm guessing it's below my flat. Really, I don't particularly care about someone else doing whatever as long as they don't actually manage to hack into my network, but I'd just like to have my devices connect to my network properly even if a second one with the same name exists. Admiral H. Curtiss fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jul 2, 2017 |
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Jul 2, 2017 19:02
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Have you tried making a hidden network? From the sounds of it they're not very technically competent as there are vastly faster and easier ways to crack wifi and they're just trying to harass you. I doubt they'd figure out a hidden network.
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Jul 2, 2017 19:15
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If by that you mean one without SSID broadcast, I did, that stopped it for an hour or two but it came back eventually.
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Jul 2, 2017 19:33
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Are you a bad neighbor? What'd you do to piss off whoever's messing with your wifi?
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Jul 2, 2017 20:22
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This is an interesting problem. The term you're looking for is 'evil twin' and there's all kinds of information online about the attacks, and strategies to detect it. But they're all written from the perspective that if you determine it's happening your IT department will be able to wave a magic wand and make it disappear. Nobody seems to consider what you could do when someone is using it to DoS you and you can't identify or shut them down. EDIT: Honestly there's a point where you'll probably have to file a report with the police and hope somebody's interested in looking into it. There doesn't seem to be a way for wifi to operate properly in the presence of a malicious actor like that. Best strategy I could think of: Setup dozens of SSID's on a dummy router and hope they go after one of those instead of your real SSID. Do all the SSID's you can see in your neighborhood have evil twins as well? Or are they specifically targeting you? If they're targeting your router's MAC switch to router firmware that lets you change it and change your MAC & SSID at the same time. Then change your dummy router to your old MAC and hope they keep attacking it instead? Rescue Toaster fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jul 2, 2017 |
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Jul 2, 2017 20:27
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This is something you refer to your local frequency authority(FCC?) or for lack thereof to the police.
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Jul 3, 2017 06:13
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Just using a decoy SSID won't work, and nobody should ever be suggesting "hidden" SSIDs either as there's really no such thing. It's trivial to tell if someone setup a SSID that's not used because there will be no associated client traffic, just the AP beacons. Whoever it is (assuming it's on purpose) knows at least a little about what they're doing since they're smart enough to setup an evil twin with a captive portal trying to steal credentials. There's not a whole lot you really can do in that situation. I'd probably setup some kind of spare box to join the network and then write a script to keep hurling garbage at the web portal because I'm petty. Can you take a screenshot of the portal? Is there any vendor branding or anything on it? I do agree that it sounds more like a misconfigured wireless repeater instead of someone actively being nefarious.
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Jul 3, 2017 06:43
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It's too bad spamming random SSIDs with an ESP8266 would get you in trouble.
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Jul 3, 2017 11:20
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literally this big posted:Hello thread. Some friends and I are moving into a new place, and we're looking to set up internet there. The OP was pretty straightforward, but I was hoping I could get some help / recommendations. Not sure how much Spectrum's services differ from region to region, but here in the Raleigh NC area, I just got Spectrum, and they offered "WiFi" -- translation, they provide the router -- for an extra fee. So of course, I waived that fee and bought a TP-Link Archer C7 and plugged their modem into that. So far, so good. I can't really comment too technically on upload/download/LAN speeds, but the short story is it works.
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Jul 3, 2017 13:38
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Admiral H. Curtiss posted:Yeah, the misconfigured extender also crossed my mind, but it's hard to say without finding the source. I am indeed in an apartment complex. My signal strength is higher than the other network's; I'm guessing it's below my flat. Get a wifi analyzer app for your phone and see what the manufacturer of the other device is. I had a similar problem where a device was broadcasting my ssid and found out it was a feature on our Sony TV (could have been the Sony bluray player it was a while ago)
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Jul 3, 2017 18:28
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Well had my wifi turned off overnight and only turned it back on when I came home from work today, and so far the other network hasn't appeared again. I'll keep you updated if anything else happens here. Thanks for all the suggestions though!
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Jul 3, 2017 19:24
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Sir Lemming posted:Not sure how much Spectrum's services differ from region to region, but here in the Raleigh NC area, I just got Spectrum, and they offered "WiFi" -- translation, they provide the router -- for an extra fee. So of course, I waived that fee and bought a TP-Link Archer C7 and plugged their modem into that. So far, so good. I can't really comment too technically on upload/download/LAN speeds, but the short story is it works. Well that's at least promising. The ARRIS SB6190 is listed as a compatible modem, but Spectrum's router compatibility guide only lists three routers, two Neatgears and a Sagemcom. I went ahead an ordered an ARRIS SB6190 and a TP-Link Archer C9, fingers crossed that they work.
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Jul 3, 2017 22:34
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literally this big posted:Well that's at least promising. The ARRIS SB6190 is listed as a compatible modem, but Spectrum's router compatibility guide only lists three routers, two Neatgears and a Sagemcom. I went ahead an ordered an ARRIS SB6190 and a TP-Link Archer C9, fingers crossed that they work. Cancel/Return the SB6190; the chipset used in it has effectively-unfixable issues. Spectrum should let you lease (for free!) an SB6183 modem, which would be more than adequate. And you don't need to worry about the Archer not being on some 'compatible' list. It'll work just fine. e: I just noticed the SB6190 is still in the OP; with the aforementioned issues the OP probably ought to have a warning about it instead. astral fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 4, 2017 |
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Jul 4, 2017 00:34
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https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/10313120 TP Link Archer C3200 $130 Is triband a gimmick or what
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Jul 4, 2017 01:13
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astral posted:Cancel/Return the SB6190; the chipset used in it has effectively-unfixable issues. Spectrum should let you lease (for free!) an SB6183 modem, which would be more than adequate. Nostalgia4Dogges posted:https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/10313120 Instead of the Archer C9 and SB 6190, should I go with the Archer 3200 and the SB 6183? I'll cancel my order for the 6190 tomorrow, and a 3200 would be a steal at $130 (compared to the C9 at $110), if it's any good.
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Jul 4, 2017 09:06
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I just ordered it 🤷🏽♀️
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Jul 4, 2017 09:33
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literally this big posted:Instead of the Archer C9 and SB 6190, should I go with the Archer 3200 and the SB 6183? I'll cancel my order for the 6190 tomorrow, and a 3200 would be a steal at $130 (compared to the C9 at $110), if it's any good.
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Jul 4, 2017 13:17
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Omne posted:As far as the other blank wall plates and what's behind them: Very strange. Just a red wire, black wire and stringy thing in a grey sheeting. No voltage, 12" of wire inside the boxes. That most likely what's called "Alarm cable". Designed for low voltage (non-data/non-voice) usages. Think of things like door sensors/etc which go back to a central alarm panel. Basically they close (or open) the loop (+ -> -) when a condition is met (eg: door open or closed). No cross talk issues to worry about, so the cables aren't even twisted pair usually. Provided they're not like stapled to studs, you could use them as draw strings to pull ethernet cable.  For your ethernet usage, just grab a pile of those toolless keystone jacks (don't bother with shielded). They work well for a single install and follow the colour map on them. Protip: Wondering whether to use 568A or B mapping? Check the cable - it's printed on there. So here's what you need: Rooms: Keystone wall plates: https://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=105&cp_id=10517 Cable (2x = each end): Keystone jacks: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051301&p_id=310&seq=1&format=2 Panel: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051603&p_id=7260&seq=1&format=2 and wallmount: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051602&p_id=8623&seq=1&format=2 Don't forget the short patch cables: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10208&cs_id=1020802&p_id=11328&seq=1&format=2
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Jul 4, 2017 19:18
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unknown posted:That most likely what's called "Alarm cable". Designed for low voltage (non-data/non-voice) usages. Think of things like door sensors/etc which go back to a central alarm panel. Basically they close (or open) the loop (+ -> -) when a condition is met (eg: door open or closed). No cross talk issues to worry about, so the cables aren't even twisted pair usually. Provided they're not like stapled to studs, you could use them as draw strings to pull ethernet cable. Could be speaker cable as well depending on the gauge. The alarm wire in my house is thin, somewhere between 22 and 18 gauge without a sheath. I have a box of 16g in wall rated power/speaker cable similar to what he describes
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Jul 5, 2017 20:32
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I hate it when things misbehave just enough to be annoying but not so bad you have to fix it immediately. My desktop started feeling sluggish when puttering around on the Internet, but it seemed to be very transient and not too huge of an issue. Then when moving data to my FreeNAS box I noticed that I was only getting around 10MB/s transfers, suggesting there was a 100Mbit link somewhere gumming things up. Checked the desktop, shows gigabit. Checked the FreweNAS box, shows gigabit. Checked the switch interconnect, shows gigabit. gently caress it, I'll fix it later. Now, today I'm hooking up my newly refreshed desktop (not being refreshed because of this issue) and while cleaning the desk I realized that I left out one important piece: i'm plugged into the network through my loving VoIP phone's builtin switch. VoIP phone to switch? 100Mbit. Just another friendly reminder to start at layer 1.
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Jul 6, 2017 05:03
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Our router (ASUS RT-N66U) is in a bedroom of our house on the top floor. The signal has to bounce around a fair bit and can be weak in some of our downstairs living areas where the signal is used most frequently. The bedroom is where the cable comes in from outside (via Verizon FIOS) so we are stuck with that as our 'entry point'. I'm looking to boost the signal, so I've thought about buying a longer ethernet cable and running it into a more centralized upstairs point in the house, where it would be directly above the staircase. This length would require about 65 feet of cable running along the ceiling/walls. My other option would be placing a repeater in a strategic location. (likely this repeater) What would be our best option in this situation? The cabling would be less expensive, but more of a pain to set up. The repeater would about $20 more, but easier to set up. Would I get better coverage with one option over the other?
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Jul 6, 2017 16:36
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Run the cable or look into powerline networking plus a second AP across the house.
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Jul 6, 2017 18:10
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smax posted:Run the cable or look into powerline networking plus a second AP across the house. The signal on TP-Link's is pretty narrow so you'll want something to extend it beyond a room, unless you just buy multiple powerline adapters for the other rooms.
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Jul 6, 2017 18:26
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Has anyone used Ubiquiti's in-wall integrated APs? My parents are about to do a new build and I kind of like that idea for bedrooms/non-communal spaces.
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Jul 6, 2017 20:19
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H2SO4 posted:Has anyone used Ubiquiti's in-wall integrated APs? My parents are about to do a new build and I kind of like that idea for bedrooms/non-communal spaces. I haven't seen too much feedback about them, but to me there are a non-started because they are 2.4 GHz only.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:14
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Internet Explorer posted:I haven't seen too much feedback about them, but to me there are a non-started because they are 2.4 GHz only. Not anymore, at least - looks like the AC models are out of beta and in the regular store.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:20
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H2SO4 posted:Not anymore, at least - looks like the AC models are out of beta and in the regular store. Interesting, thanks for the link. I went looking and didn't see any new models, which I thought was odd. I'd say go for it. A small WAP in each room is better than a few larger WAPs.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:25
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The in-wall APs certainly look cool but aren't really targeted for a residential install. Due to where plugs are normally installed and furniture that's in the room their range isn't very good; generally just in whatever room they're installed in. Also, they need POE which means you'll need a POE capable switch in your network closet. At $99 each plus a POE capable switch you're looking at pretty hefty price tag especially when you can get a UAP-AC-Pro for $130. If they're building new then you should be able to figure out the proper placement for 1 or 2 APs that should be able to cover the entire house.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:58
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It's not like installing WAPs in a commercial setting is difficult either. Generally they're all drop-ceiling.
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Jul 6, 2017 22:02
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We upgraded to Centurylink 1000mb fiber the other day. Centurylink provided us a Zyxel router that, although does the job, is a box I frankly don't trust (used to work for an ISP that deployed them for DSL installs and never had a good experience). I obtained my PPPoE credentials to plug into my long in the tooth but trusty linksys E3000 with DDWRT only to find out that CL needs all traffic vlan tagged 204, and the E3000 cannot go above vlan 15. I'm hesitant to move to a new router because I simply don't have the trust built up with other manufacturers and their router firmware. In the years I've had that router (and the previous router with DDWRT) I've never had an issue with bugs or reliability issues, and offhand comments I've heard from people using the drone looking Asus and Netgear routers has been nothing but constantly having to upgrade firmware to fix bugs. That being said I'm in the same boat with the Zyxel, so if I have to live with that it might as well be a router I chose to live with and own as opposed to a rental box. Requirements: -Vlan tagging on WAN traffic that can go up to 204 or higher. -Gigabit ports -Rock solid reliability, or a good DDWRT port that doesn't downgrade the capabilities of the router -shell access -Advanced features up the wazoo (my partner works for a VOIP company and occasionally needs to do weird poo poo with our router to try and duplicate customer issues) -Wireless optional (We can turn the e3000 into an access point) The current network has about 10 computers on it and a number of other devices (phones, tablets, game consoles etc). HKR fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 17:06
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HKR posted:We upgraded to Centurylink 1000mb fiber the other day. Centurylink provided us a Zyxel router that, although does the job, is a box I frankly don't trust (used to work for an ISP that deployed them for DSL installs and never had a good experience). I obtained my PPPoE credentials to plug into my long in the tooth but trusty linksys E3000 with DDWRT only to find out that CL needs all traffic vlan tagged 204, and the E3000 cannot go above vlan 15. You sound like a perfect candidate for an EdgeRouter lite. I use one with Centurylink gigabit and it works flawlessly. Basic setup is a breeze if you know your PPPoE creds and it supports pretty much anything extra your partner would want to do.
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Jul 7, 2017 17:15
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HKR posted:Requirements: You just described an EdgeRouter. The EdgeRouter Lite should do the trick for you. Keep in my my that it'll be a router on a stick, so if you need more ports you'll need a switch (or you should be able to use your existing router as an AP/switch).
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Jul 7, 2017 17:23
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HKR posted:trusty linksys E3000 quote:the E3000 cannot go above vlan 15. This means it doesn't actually support VLANs or VLAN tagging per 802.1q which would support tag values up to 4096.
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Jul 7, 2017 17:29
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CrazyLittle posted:Lol I only venture into computer forums once every 5 years or so so I can only rely on my personal experiences instead of the hivemind sorry
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Jul 7, 2017 17:41
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Yeah, EdgeRouter Lite would work. That's what I use with CenturyLink fiber. I also set up a Unifi Secure Gateway for another friend that just got fiber and was super impressed with that as well.
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Jul 7, 2017 17:44
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someone explain vlans, tagging, and what its used for to me like i'm a child.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:24
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Internet Explorer posted:Yeah, EdgeRouter Lite would work. That's what I use with CenturyLink fiber. I also set up a Unifi Secure Gateway for another friend that just got fiber and was super impressed with that as well. What did you find impressive with the gateway vs the edgerouter other than being able to interface it all using the controller software? I'll admit, that's what got me interested as well but most of the Q1-Q2 Amazon reviews from this year with any tech semblance behind them seem to indicate that it's feature limited and seems to have been released too early/beta mode vs the ER.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:25
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Just exactly what you said, being able to manage it in the same interface as the WAPs. When you plug it in and go to the IP to start initial setup, it has an option for PPPoE but doesn't allow you to change the VLAN, but that was very easy once I adopted it with the Unifi Controller. It just seems to me if you are going to have Unifi Controller setup anyways, might as well go the USG route. I didn't see anything the ERL could do that the USG couldn't, but I will admit I didn't look too hard.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:38
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Thermopyle posted:someone explain vlans, tagging, and what its used for to me like i'm a child. A VLAN is just a virtual LAN that can exist alongside your real LAN. The virtual LAN has all the same capabilities of the real LAN, but you can use it to cordon off devices. For example, say you have a fancy Ubiquiti WiFi access point at home. Say you also run a Plex instance to stream all your porn. Last thing you'd want is for any guest with your WiFi password to be able to open their Plex app on their phone and see "Tim's Titty Server" pop up as a local Plex server. So you could run a guest access point that puts your guests into a VLAN, then configure that VLAN so it can't see your LAN, but can see the internet. They get the internet access they want, and your privacy is preserved. Some devices are VLAN aware, like the aforementioned Ubiquiti access points. I've also seen VoIP phones that can do native VLAN-tagging all by themselves. But some devices have no clue about how to tag VLAN traffic themselves, so people typically buy managed switches that let you assign individual ports to tag traffic in certain ways. In effect, you could say <any device> plugged into <switch port 1> is supposed to be on the LAN, but <any device> plugged into <switch port 2> is on VLAN 10, isolated and all by itself. And so on. VLANs are just a fancy way to manage traffic on a network.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:41
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