|
In b4 supercharger shenanigans 
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2017 08:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 00:53 |
|
|
 There is a zero percent chance I ever do anything to mod the 4.7 for powaaaa. Sole exception might be if I do have to pull the heads off, do I see if the later 4.7 heads and cams really do get me another 30hp. There's far greater odds that this thing ends up a LS swapped buggy (and no that's not happening anytime soon either).
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2017 08:59
|
|
|
It's been remarkably quiet for me, vehicle wise, as of late. The drat Jeep decided it hadn't broken enough lately so the drivers rear window regulator crapped out again. The OEM and Dorman regulators have the exact same flaw, too. All of the weight of the window is on a small tab of plastic that holds the cable that runs up the regulator. The cable has a small barrel end, like a throttle cable, and it just pulls out of the plastic. This one lasted about a week short of a year, and that window doesn't go up or down that often.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2017 06:30
|
|
|
Is it possible to epoxy/jbweld that area to add strength? Not familiar with window regulators.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2017 18:25
|
|
|
It's actually a tempting thought. There's some decent access to it and it seems like increasing the area the cable "bites" should greatly increase the lifespan.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2017 02:52
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It's actually a tempting thought. There's some decent access to it and it seems like increasing the area the cable "bites" should greatly increase the lifespan. Definitely put some kind of washer in, epoxy and JB weld will wear through as well. Ideally the cable should pull on a washer, which is held in place by epoxy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2017 21:01
|
|
|
I think doorman is actually feedback friendly. If it makes sense they'll fix it? I've heard of them doing that for some parts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2017 22:01
|
|
|
Unfortunately, turns out the access is a bit too good: I could fill it up with JBweld, but that's the backside of the actual track itself visible at the bottom. I'd end up gluing the slider in one spot. Good point on hitting up Dorman, though. Their stuff is cheap, no doubt there, but they also built a "replacement" LS2 manifold that "just so happens" to be a direct bolton for LS1 cars.
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2017 23:34
|
|
|
Time to go a bit bigger. This should be exactly the largest tire I can cram in the spare tire well, and should fit with just about no room to spare on my 2" lift pucks. 30.8" versus my current 29.5" P245/65R17 tires. Interestingly, Hankook lists these LT245/70R17s as being slightly taller (and more tread depth) than the P245/70R17 in the exact same line.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 01:14
|
|
|
I think that's the idea behind LT tires. More tread depth means longer life, especially when carrying heavier loads. The downside being more tread depth means less feedback, and a harder rubber at the end of life if used in the P application.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 04:41
|
|
|
SNiPER_Magnum posted:I think that's the idea behind LT tires. More tread depth means longer life, especially when carrying heavier loads. The downside being more tread depth means less feedback, and a harder rubber at the end of life if used in the P application. More tread depth, more plies, harder compound. The trifecta of good load bearing and crap handling and ride.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 05:03
|
|
|
It's a Jeep, the crap handling is standard!
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 05:21
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:It's a Jeep, the crap handling is standard! 
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 05:35
|
|
|
Yep, I have a set of Hankook Dynapros on my Prime wishlist based solely on a jeep forums analysis on what is the biggest wheel that will fit in the spare cubby. The Goodyear Wranglers I have on right now will occasionally rub on certain turns at full lock, unsure if it's on the wheelwell liners, control arms or tie rods though. Guess I'll look when Im switching out the tie rods, adjusting sleeve and adjustable track bar. Have you had any alignment issues since lifting? Also, does your rear end make any appreciable noises on the highway?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 08:21
|
|
|
No alignment issues, though I've also been too lazy to adjust the drag link and center the steering wheel. On the rear, no, not really. I remember right after I got it hearing just a bit of a whine more and again, but nothing has ever been amiss during maintenance, and I've gotten used to all the noises it makes. I do need to do the axle seals, I have a very slow leak on the right side.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2017 14:41
|
|
|
Leg day finally came for the WJ. Turns out you can barely fit four 31x10 tires standing up, the fifth needs to ride in the back seat.  The last "before" pic. P245/65R17 Pathfinder Sport SATs (Kumho KL61), now mostly worn. 29.5" tall.  The after pic. LT245/70R17 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W, 31" tall. No rubbing on the street so far, need to remind myself to start backing off the indicated speed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2017 22:36
|
|
|
Looks like it's time for a lift. Recently there has been more options for the WJ suspension set up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2017 05:20
|
|
|
It's got a 2" budget boost. I'll find out in the next month or so if it rubs anywhere while flexing, but this is supposed to be the largest tire you can cram in with that 2" lift. My springs might well be sagging for all I know, though. I do have new spring isolators on the shelf to install, which should get me a little height back.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2017 05:31
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JR3Kg5ReZYw Quick run through a local trail, recorded on the dashcam. Click here if you really want to see the run at normal speed with no audio. I don't think the tires rubbed at all, or if they did it was very minor and in an unusual spot - the high banked switchbacks near the end of the video. I honestly couldn't decide if it was a tire stuffed into a fender liner or if it was the front bumper plowing a little.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 18:20
|
|
|
Not to derail your thread, but you did put trucks in the title... I'm pretty drat sure you're running the same Wilwood prop valve in your C10 that I've got in my Nova. How'd you go about adjusting yours? Hard stops and then turning the valve until the rears quit locking up first? Any tricks?
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 21:37
|
|
|
I do have the Wilwood adjustable prop valve... I haven't actually tried adjusting it yet  I'm fairly certain the instructions are to start with minimal rear braking and work towards rear lockup, then back off of that. There's so little weight over the back end that I probably don't need to adjust it a whole lot before I do get rear lockup.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 22:19
|
|
|
Haha. Well I guess we'll have to see who gets to it first.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 01:55
|
|
|
Jeep note: holy hell it should not be this hard to drill a few holes and install some bolts, but these sliders are kicking my rear end.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 00:25
|
|
|
Sliders done! I'm not so happy with the Rustoleum "automotive" matte paint since it seems super loving fragile. Perhaps I didn't lay down a thick enough layer of it? I tend to spraybomb in lots of thin layers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2017 23:53
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Sliders done! I used the same stuff on an aftermarket bumper and it looked nice but scraped off if you looked at it funny. I did a few coats of primer underneath and quite a few top coats but it just isn't durable at all. I brushed on some POR-15 and it doesn't look quite as nice but holds up 1000x better with bonus of added rust protection
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
I haven't washed the mud off to see how the paint held up but I'm sure there's some decent scrapes. I hit those sliders hard today.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 03:46
|
|
|
Ran the back road to Crown King today. However, with the rain that has happened so far this year, the trail is in nasty condition.       There was one monster rock with absolutely zero alternate routes, where I just didn't have enough breakover room and had to get a tug over it from one of the JKs. Ended up sacrificing the transfer case skid plate, which is fine by me. $50 steel plate is a much better sacrifice than the transfer case itself. The two aren't touching, but there's now nearly no room between them.     For reference, here's what this mess looked like in April 2015:  I've also developed a nasty and obnoxious clunk in the front end. I can't replicate it without actually driving it, because it needs a pretty hard bump to trigger it. The Kevin's Offroad sliders worked flawlessly, and without them I probably wouldn't have made it through the trail today. They got me through and protected me from any body damage. Now I just need to do something similar to the transmission / transfer case crossmember and skid plate. It hangs down way low in the middle and presents a vertical face, not something that can be slid along.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 05:19
|
|
|
Clank was not in the front end, at least I'm pretty sure now: Turns out that skid was closer to the case than I thought, it's got that section with a hammered look to it. Haven't test-driven it yet but the clank on startup is gone. Now to see if I can find replacement protection on a Saturday. I could also use some small wheel spacers and an adjustable track bar. Driver's side:  Passenger: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2017 05:03
|
|
|
After a few test drives, the clank is gone. I'm going to order one of the Kevin's Offroad 1/4" thick skidplates to replace it. Spent the morning today doing 100k (105k, technically) maintenance on the CR-V. Easiest spark plug job I've done in ages. I did decide to do the serpentine belt at the same time, and immediately wished I had bought one of those serpentine belt tools first. I'll order one whenever it looks like I'm doing a belt again because I barely had enough room with two wrenches and a jack handle all stacked up. The tensioner on that thing is crazy strong!
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2017 07:48
|
|
|
Video someone else put together of the run to Crown King. In which I attempt (and actually succeed) on the milder obstacles, and the wilder builds show off a bit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Gyv25ZkDGA The rock I got hung up on later (past anything in the video) is just supposed to be a dirt road 
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2017 23:46
|
|
|
Sportwagen zum Einbauen, indeed. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2017 23:23
|
|
|
Taking a midday break on the Jeep. So far I've replaced both front lower control arms, and removed the passenger upper control arm. Lowers looked serviceable, but both bushings in the upper arm I pulled off were absolutely trashed. Likewise, the cheap Fat Bob's Garage shocks I pulled off were completely hosed. Going to grab a ball joint press to swap bushings once it cools down again tonight. The axle side bushing was so trashed that the inner sleeve fell out as soon as the arm was free.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2017 20:09
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Taking a midday break on the Jeep. So far I've replaced both front lower control arms, and removed the passenger upper control arm. Lowers looked serviceable, but both bushings in the upper arm I pulled off were absolutely trashed. Likewise, the cheap Fat Bob's Garage shocks I pulled off were completely hosed. Better then the old Honda trick of seizing the inner bushing to the bolt, requiring the shock tab to be torched off and the rubber melted out. Bleh, rust.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 17:10
|
|
|
Yeah, at least it has been relatively easy getting the bushings out. The control-arm side bushings, a drill takes care of the rubber very quickly and then you can knock the center out and get a sawzall blade in. I have a few Milwaukee "Torch" blades and holy gently caress they go through the shell of the bushing quick. Of course then it's time to buzz away with the air hammer to fold the shell in enough to take off the tension and push it out. Random photo from halfway through last night.  Closeup of what was left of the bushing:  And yes, I did slap another coat of paint on the spring perches. In the not-quite two years since I put the budget boost on, a bit of the paint I put on then had flaked off again. I've got all but the driver's upper control arm done, and on that I've got all the rubber knocked out of both bushings. Just didn't want to be That Guy using an air hammer at midnight.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 21:09
|
|
|
 All four arms on, Old Man Emu HD springs in with new Moog isolators, and the Bilstein 5100s are jammed in place. The upper bolt is too hard to get at until I get the Jeep on the ground, and I had to go buy new hardware for the lower mount because they were looking pretty rough. Just need to get it on the ground and torqued. Well, that and a new track bar.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2017 07:10
|
|
|
Did you replace the entire arms or just the bushings?
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 04:58
|
|
|
Lower arms are new because the oval bushings cost about the same as new arms. They were probably also still usable but feh, cheap enough to replace anyway. Upper arms just got new bushings pressed in. Got the rear springs and shocks in, no photos yet but this thing is definitely sitting more than an inch higher overall. Still need to torque literally everything under the front end, adjust the drag link, and get an adjustable track bar in. Probably also going to need longer rear sway bar links.
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2017 08:10
|
|
|
Got everything torqued down tonight - 120 ftlb is a motherfucker on some of those bolts. Took it for a test drive even though I don't have the new track bar yet and holy poo poo it drives so much better now. I haven't measured yet but I'm pretty sure I gained a lot more than an inch, which shows just how shagged my original springs and isolators were.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2017 08:29
|
|
|
Definitely sits up higher and gets rid of the rake: Measured tonight - I'm sure it will settle a bit more but after swapping springs (OE to OME HD), isolators (worn OE to new Moog), and removing the boost (Fat Bob's 2" budget boost), I gained 3/4" in the rear and nearly 2" in the front. It's also muuuuuuch smoother and quieter to drive.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 08:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 00:53 |
|
|
I love the ride quality the Bilsteins gave me. A bit stiffer than stock, but not harsh. Both of my dad's trucks, both of them GMC's with some sort of offroading package, ride really harsh, so I remain impressed by Bilsteins quality. Have any issues getting the rears mounted?
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 06:32
|
|