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Murder heli got blinged up with a new landing gear, which allowed me to hang a larger battery, 3 axis gimbal (or mapping camera). It pulls about 22amp @ 4S (~350Watts), so that gives me about 25 mins with the gimbal and a bit more with the mapping camera. It needs a little retuning with the heavier weight, but my ground control station was acting up (Attempting to do a windows update without a wifi connection, whee!). (I also forgot to turn on the gopro and captured nothing!).   The gimbal is home-rolled, using a Storm32NT controller and I kinda hate it. It's a pain to set up right and I'm close to tossing it. Documentation is a mess, the creator a bit of a jerk, but it offers direct control from the pixhawk via serial connection and in general have features that none of the other has. I'm real tempted to get the Quanum 3axis FY Pro, but again, I *really* want to be able to point on a map and say 'point camera here'. Edit: I got out again later in the day. Take-off is manual, the rest is auto, including the landing. I do 'nudge' it into the center of the road. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ocAZLP-Qdw ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Jul 3, 2017 |
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Jul 3, 2017 00:45
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| # ? May 13, 2024 15:17 |
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Is it really lovely on your lipos to unplug them mid charge to resume later? With all the talk of how dangerous these are I've got in the habit of unplugging them if for instance the dog has to go out or something
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Jul 3, 2017 11:28
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AcidRonin posted:Is it really lovely on your lipos to unplug them mid charge to resume later? With all the talk of how dangerous these are I've got in the habit of unplugging them if for instance the dog has to go out or something
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Jul 3, 2017 12:19
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AcidRonin posted:Is it really lovely on your lipos to unplug them mid charge to resume later? With all the talk of how dangerous these are I've got in the habit of unplugging them if for instance the dog has to go out or something Whenever I do this I just put the battery in question at the "end of the line" and charge it the rest of the way after the other ones.
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Jul 3, 2017 16:28
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Murder heli got blinged up with a new landing gear, which allowed me to hang a larger battery, 3 axis gimbal (or mapping camera). That's really cool, nice work!
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Jul 3, 2017 16:48
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Yeah that's a neat setup. Holy loving vibration tho :/
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Jul 3, 2017 17:02
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whoda thunk, hking promised the tundras back in stock today, and they aren't. This got put on the bg store though and it looks good https://www.banggood.com/search/zohd-nano-talon.html
moron izzard fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Jul 4, 2017 |
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Jul 4, 2017 13:58
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I love that it has nano and 860mm in the same title.
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Jul 4, 2017 16:21
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evil_bunnY posted:Yeah that's a neat setup. Holy loving vibration tho :/ Yeah, I could still improve on the tail tuning, but some of it, I suspect, is also coming from the gimbal. Just realised yesterday that the AlexMos BCG 32bit also supports serial input from the Pixhawk and I'm very tempted to change to that. Meanwhile I'm also trying a different shockplate design...and I'll turn the stabilisation on in the GoPro 
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Jul 4, 2017 17:46
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evil_bunnY posted:I love that it has nano and 860mm in the same title. Its all relative I guess. the nano/micro skyhunter is 780mm
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Jul 4, 2017 18:27
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A bunch of the Bolt V2 lipos just went on sale, could be a good chance to try them. 1300 4S here. Edit: just remember you need a compatible charger for these "HV" packs.
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Jul 4, 2017 20:17
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Aren't HV packs good for like 30 charges? I guess you could run charge them as normal lipos but I'm curious what the real world C rating ends up being.
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Jul 4, 2017 20:29
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evil_bunnY posted:Aren't HV packs good for like 30 charges? I guess you could run charge them as normal lipos but I'm curious what the real world C rating ends up being. My experience was that there's less sag, but you can't run them as low, which I often did and quickly killed them off. In my opinion, if you want to run HV, don't mix and match, unless you are really disciplined.
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Jul 4, 2017 20:56
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ImplicitAssembler posted:My experience was that there's less sag, but you can't run them as low, which I often did and quickly killed them off.
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Jul 4, 2017 23:10
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Jul 5, 2017 00:02
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On normal packs, even after 60+ cycles (the most I've gone before destroying one), I can still pull 80% of the rated mah. If that's also the case with HV packs provided you don't let them dip too low that's good to know, AFAI knew the HV packs were basically only good for ~20 cycles and then they got progressively more useless.
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Jul 5, 2017 10:54
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Ah yeah, they seemed to be on par with my regular packs. I'm not flying much miniquads at the moment (probably wont until winter), but I'm now changing solely to Tattu 1300 75Cs.
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Jul 5, 2017 18:38
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Ah yeah, they seemed to be on par with my regular packs. I'm not flying much miniquads at the moment (probably wont until winter), but I'm now changing solely to Tattu 1300 75Cs. Still using Turnigy Graphenes for everything I can. Theyve been super reliable and have lasted over a year now for me. Quads = 1550mAH 4S Durafly Tundra = 2200mAH 3S Have just ordered a Ritewing Mini Drak, not sure what to stick in that, probably a 4000mAH 4S Graphene. Or perhaps I can re-use the 5200 4S Multistars I use in my Mini Talon.
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Jul 6, 2017 08:51
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Most people want their mini drak to go fast (he's now cutting goblinish style plank wings to go even faster). You might want a higher c pack than the mulistar
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Jul 6, 2017 12:13
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moron izzard posted:Most people want their mini drak to go fast (he's now cutting goblinish style plank wings to go even faster). You might want a higher c pack than the mulistar That's what i was concerned about. Trying to reduce the amount of different batteries I have in stock! The 5200 is rated 10C though, so should be good to 52A. I'm only putting a 60A ESC in it, so shouldn't cause an issue, unless that 10C rating is ... optimistic?
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Jul 6, 2017 12:25
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You could Y-harness 2 of your miniquad batteries.
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Jul 6, 2017 13:11
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Good idea, but might be more effort than it's worth trying to get them to fit in the battery bay. I'll wait for the airframe to arrive and see what I can fit in it!
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Jul 6, 2017 13:35
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Slash posted:That's what i was concerned about. Trying to reduce the amount of different batteries I have in stock! The 10C rating on a multistar is very optimistic. A 10C rating means you can drain them in 6 minutes ... a buddy puffed two after aggressive 12 minute flights on his 450.
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Jul 6, 2017 14:15
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Slash posted:Still using Turnigy Graphenes for everything I can. Theyve been super reliable and have lasted over a year now for me. That's good to hear I guess. I bought one Graphene a while back when I started getting parts for a quad build and fresh out of the box, one cell was at 1.9V. My charger wouldn't even recognize it. I was debating if I should try again or move to a different brand.
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Jul 6, 2017 14:56
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Finally getting around to putting a Vector into a fixed wing. Anyone ever had an issue with the controller jamming the ailerons all the way to one side on startup?
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Jul 6, 2017 18:10
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Geburan posted:That's good to hear I guess. I bought one Graphene a while back when I started getting parts for a quad build and fresh out of the box, one cell was at 1.9V. My charger wouldn't even recognize it. I was debating if I should try again or move to a different brand. HobbyKing are usually pretty good about returns, you should've got in contact and they'd have replaced it.
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Jul 7, 2017 09:51
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BabelFish posted:Finally getting around to putting a Vector into a fixed wing. Anyone ever had an issue with the controller jamming the ailerons all the way to one side on startup?
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Jul 9, 2017 16:25
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:Did you manage to get this fixed? Daemon on rcgroups is pretty much the master of the Vector, you might post over there if you couldn't figure it out. Yep! It turns out the "flaps" channel on the vector is not actually flaps, but should only be used if you're using flaperons. Once I unbound the channel the plane worked great. Of course the windings in the motor were bad and blew both the motor and the ESC three minutes after takeoff, but that's becoming depressingly common lately. BabelFish fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 06:37
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72x-zGToTbk Got the banshee out again..I love that plane! ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 07:13
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I bought a Mavic Pro  My entire city is one huge no fly zone  The weird thing is looking at their no fly zone maps on their website it shouldn't be one. Oh well It would have been nice to use some of the parks near my house. Also holy poo poo this thing is fun / scary to fly. I've only taken it out once but I'm in love.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:30
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I'm jealous. I bought a Spark on release like an idiot and sure enough it's got issues (RC won't stay connected, pretty widespread problem on the forums). Just got a refund, maybe I'll buy another in a few CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 18:46
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BabelFish posted:Of course the windings in the motor were bad and blew both the motor and the ESC three minutes after takeoff, but that's becoming depressingly common lately. I only fly miniquads but I've never blown a motor without first molesting it
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Jul 10, 2017 18:48
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Same. Have yet to burn a motor or ESC. That said, I'm running presumably quality components. The stuff might not be cheap, but I'm not buying twice or thrice and spending time replacing poo poo.
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Jul 10, 2017 18:53
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n.. posted:I'm jealous. I bought a Spark on release like an idiot and sure enough it's got issues (RC won't stay connected, pretty widespread problem on the forums). Just got a refund, maybe I'll buy another in a few minutes when they get their poo poo together. Tempted to get a Mavic but the spark is just so god damned portable. Yeah I looked at the Spark but then I found a Mavic on the Amazon warehouse for 800 so I jumped on it. The drat thing was brand new except for a dent in the box. The only issue I'm having is that I can't buy DJI refresh on it for some reason so I'm going back and forth with their support on that issue. The Mavic is really small though It goes in my backpack with plenty of room to spare. Once I get the refresh issue sorted out I'm really going to take this thing out and play with it.
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Jul 10, 2017 19:08
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MarcusSA posted:Yeah I looked at the Spark but then I found a Mavic on the Amazon warehouse If you order a drone from amazon and it's getting delivered by drone, can the drone just deliver itself?
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Jul 10, 2017 19:09
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evil_bunnY posted:The what now? Where were they from? These were the stock motor and ESC on the RMRC Stratosurfer. Not sure what make the motor is, but the ESC is the 40 amp Cobra.  My previous build was a RotorX Atom that had a motor blow as soon as I powered it up for the first time. Took the 2-in-1 20 amp ESC board with it too.
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Jul 10, 2017 23:26
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So my current camera/VTX situation is turning me batshit. I've made a harness to connect my TBS unify race to my runcam microswift. The VTX powers up fine, it feeds 5.1V to the camera (checked at the camera end to eliminate the connector), but all I get is a clean black screen. If I put a voltmeter across video and ground I get a constant .62V It's not the goggles or antennas, if I wrap one of the antennas in my hand I get actual static. It's not the JST, same thing happens with the cables hardwired to the camera pins. the camera's getting power, what the hell? I've even tried a different camera (mini swift), same deal. When the unify gets power it lights solid blue (aka, it's not in pit mode). e: here's the setup, once extricated from the quad 
evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 18:11
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I only have the Unify Pro V1, but I think both the blue and amber LEDs are supposed to be lit in normal operation (at work, can't verify yet). Black image means the VTX thinks there's no signal.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:10
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It's only supposed to light both in unlocked mode. Normal operation is blue for TX, red for pit mode. According to the mania at least.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:53
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Try the camera on a known working setup. Also, take your lens cap off 
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