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The Nest Pro is just a gen 3 Nest, right?
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Jul 6, 2017 01:27
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:The Nest Pro is just a gen 3 Nest, right? Probably? I mean there is no such thing as a Nest Pro thermostat, there is a Nest Pro program from HVAC companies to sell Nests. But I think you have to be dumb as a stick to not be able to install a Nest so you were either confused or the HVAC company is trying to rip you off.
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Jul 6, 2017 02:11
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 But, gently caress me, right? Just as charming as expected for a TO experience I guess Maybe I should clarify. I see a bunch of "nest pro" thermostats on eBay and offerup for sometimes a LOT cheaper than a standatd Gen 3 one. That's all I was asking about. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jul 6, 2017 |
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Jul 6, 2017 03:12
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:
They should be Gen 3. The Nest Pro program lets dealers by at a fairly small discount but it also has a minimum order requirement of 20 units. So you end up with a lot of dealers with stock they couldn't/chose not to move. So it ends up on Ebay.
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Jul 6, 2017 04:48
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Thanks much. I had a gen 2 at my last place and loved it, but had to leave it behind. Looks like I'll jump on a $105 BNIB "pro" that I've been eyeing.
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Jul 6, 2017 05:14
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Recommend me a hub: Wink or SmartThings? I plan to buy a Schlage Connect for the front door, a Ring doorbell, possibly a couple of Arlo cameras to watch my driveway and backyard when I'm not home, a few Z-wave light switches/bulbs around the house and some water leak sensors in my laundry/kitchen to warn me if there is a busted pipe. It looks like either hub will support the stuff I want to do, and more, and SmartThings has it's own group of "things" that you can buy, but my research shows that Wink has native support for more brands/devices. It looks like they both will integrate with Echo/Alexa which is cool but I'm not really sure which one I should get.
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Jul 7, 2017 14:53
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WarMECH posted:Recommend me a hub: Wink or SmartThings? Wink is basically a dead product. SmartThings seems to be surviving, if not necessarily thriving. I've used ST for a couple years now and I like it, generally. It's still nothing close to being 100% reliable, and I have at least one malfunction in my (comprehensively automated) household on a daily basis.
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Jul 7, 2017 15:06
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bobfather posted:Wink is basically a dead product. SmartThings seems to be surviving, if not necessarily thriving. I've used ST for a couple years now and I like it, generally. It's still nothing close to being 100% reliable, and I have at least one malfunction in my (comprehensively automated) household on a daily basis. How is Wink a dead product? They just released a new hub and they are owned by Flextronics which more than likely wants to be a player in home automation since it will likely be a huge market that no one has really been able to claim yet. I'm happy with Wink, it's a simpler product that SmartThings but easier to use.
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Jul 7, 2017 17:35
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Actually for some reason I thought they were closing up shop. Generation 1 Wink stuff went on closeout at all the B&M stores that carried it like 12-18 months ago. I didn't realize they came out with a second hub, also. SmartThings major advantage over Wink and the other players is a pretty active community. They do all sorts of things like develop new device handlers for unsupported hardware, to creating new SmartApps that can do all sorts of things.
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Jul 7, 2017 18:44
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You might be thinking of Quirky, who made a basic wink Hub thing (I found one in my house, and concluded it didn't seem worth the effort to get working after spending too long trying to get it to talk to my router).
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Jul 7, 2017 19:07
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Actually, you're exactly right. I guess I figured they were one in the same.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:21
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bobfather posted:Actually, you're exactly right. I guess I figured they were one in the same. They were. Wink was the only mildly successful product that Quirky ever made and was spun off as a subsidiary. When Quirky went bankrupt they owed Flextronics a shitload of money so Flextronic acquired Wink as part of the bankruptcy deal.
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Jul 7, 2017 20:04
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Is there software that'll let me do something like set up cameras up on motion detect and push video segments to Dropbox immediately or something so I don't lose all of the footage if someone swipes the PC? Or some stand-alone thing that will do that, preferably without some $10 monthly storage fee?
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Jul 11, 2017 16:36
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OneEightHundred posted:Is there software that'll let me do something like set up cameras up on motion detect and push video segments to Dropbox immediately or something so I don't lose all of the footage if someone swipes the PC? Or some stand-alone thing that will do that, preferably without some $10 monthly storage fee? Blue Iris paired with a free DropBox/OneDrive/Google Drive account will let you do just that. Blue Iris will even automatically delete old videos automatically as space limits are met, to avoid filling up your cloud storage. Blue Iris isn't free, but it is fantastically good pay-once software. The dev is active even after all these years in maintaining it, and he implements new features pretty regularly.
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Jul 11, 2017 17:30
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Just bought the Nest outdoor camera. Will let you guys know how good it is once I get home and install it
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Jul 11, 2017 19:00
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The best camera is a pretty sweet camera. Very clear even at night and the notifications are spot on. So far so good.
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Jul 12, 2017 13:29
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bobfather posted:Blue Iris paired with a free DropBox/OneDrive/Google Drive account will let you do just that. Blue Iris will even automatically delete old videos automatically as space limits are met, to avoid filling up your cloud storage. Neither Google Drive nor Dropbox synchronize open files. So they wouldn't be uploaded until Blue Iris finishes writing the video. You can try making the file limits very small but that's a crap shoot. It's fine to use them as cloud storage but if the concern is the PC being stolen then you are going to want to use Nest or one of the other cloud based cameras.
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Jul 12, 2017 14:49
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Piggy Smalls posted:The best camera is a pretty sweet camera. Obviously.
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Jul 12, 2017 15:12
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Thermopyle posted:Obviously. :-P I meant it's a pretty sweet camera. Any recommendations on a good lock that can be opened as I arrive home so I don't have to fumble with keys? How good is Alexa to pair with nest products or any other products? Waste of money?
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Jul 12, 2017 15:43
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I have my Nest stuff hooked up to a Wink 2 Hub which has good Alexa comparability apparently. I prefer the Nest software on my cell but it overlaps quite well. I have a Schlage keypad lock and I wish I'd gone for a Wink compatible model now as you can do some neat stuff with it.
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Jul 12, 2017 16:58
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I'm starting to consider building a new home next year-ish, so I'm thinking about smart home stuff... I hear a lot of stories about how stuff like smartthings or wink are not quite reliable or slow at turning on lights or whatever (at least for some people). Tell me about whats available a step above these consumer-focused smart home "standards" like smartthings or wink. Things like smartthings and wink seems to have the advantages of wide availability, less vendor lock-in, and easier future upgrading and my expectation is that higher-end systems won't have these super-appealing advantages, but maybe I'm wrong? I guess basically I'm just wondering whats available and its pros/cons at the next level up.
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Jul 12, 2017 17:51
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Hue trip report: When your power goes out at 2am your lights will all turn on full bright when it comes back on and won't turn off until your internet comes back online and the bridge connects and turns them all off ~10 minutes later.
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Jul 12, 2017 17:55
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Thermopyle posted:I'm starting to consider building a new home next year-ish, so I'm thinking about smart home stuff... Control4 pretty much owns the next level up and then you jump to Crestron, AMX and Savant where they sell you poo poo like this:  And you literally do not care what it costs because you have the same system in your private jet and super yacht. Basically SmartThings and Wink are about as good as you are going to get on the self-install consumer friendly level, anything above is going to be custom with an integrator that uses proprietary development software to change anything in your system. Control4 starts in the high 4 digits, low 5 and going balls out on a Creston or AMX system can easily set you back well into the six figures, that display alone runs around $10,000. Three Olives fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 18:11
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I've seen a lot of people moan about Control4 that the second anything needs to be changed, you have to call the dealer because only he can do anything. So that's even more money. And it's always important to remember in electronics that small market, expensive as hell stuff is in no way guaranteed to actually be good. Like that controller looks baller as hell in the photo, but I bet it doesn't run anywhere near as well as an iPad, and the UX is probably a nightmare too. The other option is the open source route, but that's definitely a completely different direction and I know enough about open source ventures that despite them often having cool, bleeding edge concepts... it doesn't always work that well, things get abandoned, and you end up CJing your system more than using it. But it's an option. https://medium.com/@Vittorio_Monaco/home-automation-from-nothing-to-done-part-1-558b7b0d1199?source=placement_card_footer_grid---------1-43 has a guide.
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Jul 12, 2017 18:33
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uPen posted:Hue trip report: When your power goes out at 2am your lights will all turn on full bright when it comes back on and won't turn off until your internet comes back online and the bridge connects and turns them all off ~10 minutes later. Clearly you need to buy an accessory Tesla Powerwall to prevent occastional blackouts, no biggie. 
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Jul 12, 2017 18:36
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Three Olives posted:anything above is going to be custom with an integrator that uses proprietary development software to change anything in your system. This is basically what I expected. I bet that the control interface isn't all that great. My expectation was that it'll be laggy, use poor screen tech (like resistive panels or TN panels or whatever), and will require their people to maintain it and make changes. I was hoping I was wrong. EL BROMANCE posted:I've seen a lot of people moan about Control4 that the second anything needs to be changed, you have to call the dealer because only he can do anything. So that's even more money. And it's always important to remember in electronics that small market, expensive as hell stuff is in no way guaranteed to actually be good. Like that controller looks baller as hell in the photo, but I bet it doesn't run anywhere near as well as an iPad, and the UX is probably a nightmare too. I'm pretty geeky so I might look more into the open source solutions.
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Jul 12, 2017 18:41
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uPen posted:Hue trip report: When your power goes out at 2am your lights will all turn on full bright when it comes back on and won't turn off until your internet comes back online and the bridge connects and turns them all off ~10 minutes later. Stupidly this is standard on a LOT of smart bulbs and often cannot be changed. I can only assume this is so they will act like a normal bulb if you have them on a physical switch. The ZWave bulbs I have in my living room lamps are also like this. And for some stupid reason will also on occasion turn on to full brightness after a Zwave network heal event. (part of maintenance that a zwave controller does from time to time)
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Jul 12, 2017 18:44
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stevewm posted:Stupidly this is standard on a LOT of smart bulbs and often cannot be changed. I can only assume this is so they will act like a normal bulb if you have them on a physical switch.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:00
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Thermopyle posted:This is basically what I expected. I bet that the control interface isn't all that great. My expectation was that it'll be laggy, use poor screen tech (like resistive panels or TN panels or whatever), and will require their people to maintain it and make changes. I was hoping I was wrong. Yes on the people to maintain and make changes, as for the other stuff, it had a bit of a reputation for that in the past because it used to be so cutting edge that processors and display technology really wasn't out there for anything yet, these days if you have the money to spend it will make anything on the consumer or do it yourself market look like a sad, useless toy. Keep in mind that the market for those products is 80 year old billionaires fitting out a new super yacht, they don't gently caress around when they want to use their $300k home automation system to turn on Fox News which is part of why it is all custom programmed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5Tl3xX62F0 Control4 is more affordable, high quality, has more broad product support, unless things have changed recently Control4 is more prêt-à-porter with a really good tailor, AMX and Creston is more haute couture, anything you request with in what is technically possible will happen if you can pay for it. Anything, you want to have the engine RPMs of your yacht engines displayed on the home screen of your in wall bathroom touch screen in Aspen? Sure, and what font and color do you want it displayed in? And if you touch it would you like it to bring up a live video feed of the engine room with a button to intercom the captain over the satellite link? Sure, that's one of the easier requests I have had. Three Olives fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 19:19
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Thomamelas posted:Neither Google Drive nor Dropbox synchronize open files. So they wouldn't be uploaded until Blue Iris finishes writing the video. You can try making the file limits very small but that's a crap shoot. It's fine to use them as cloud storage but if the concern is the PC being stolen then you are going to want to use Nest or one of the other cloud based cameras. This is no problem for Blue Iris. In the individual camera settings under the Record preferences there's an option to "cut video when triggered with break time" which will force Blue Iris to make individual clips for each event that sets off the camera. Of course, this is predicated on the idea that OneEightHundred wasn't looking for continuous recording, but instead was only doing triggered recording. With triggered recordings Blue Iris works great to sync individual recordings to (any) cloud service.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:39
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Thermopyle posted:I'm pretty geeky so I might look more into the open source solutions. There are open source ways to hook into SmartThings and Z-wave. I forget what the popular ST toolkit is off the top of my head, though.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:41
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bobfather posted:This is no problem for Blue Iris. In the individual camera settings under the Record preferences there's an option to "cut video when triggered with break time" which will force Blue Iris to make individual clips for each event that sets off the camera. It's also dependant on the motion detection stopping in time.If you get a broken screen door swaying in front of the camera or something else triggering motion detection then the file never ends. It's a solution that will situationally work, but it's really silly to jury rig a solution that will probably work when one exists that will work.
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Jul 12, 2017 19:59
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Thomamelas posted:It's also dependant on the motion detection stopping in time.If you get a broken screen door swaying in front of the camera or something else triggering motion detection then the file never ends. It's a solution that will situationally work, but it's really silly to jury rig a solution that will probably work when one exists that will work. There's a way to address every single issue you've presented so far. To each their own though.
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Jul 12, 2017 20:32
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Part of my job is designing, programming, and installing Extron control and AV systems. I have a little experience with AMX and Crestron systems too.EL BROMANCE posted:I've seen a lot of people moan about Control4 that the second anything needs to be changed, you have to call the dealer because only he can do anything. So that's even more money. And it's always important to remember in electronics that small market, expensive as hell stuff is in no way guaranteed to actually be good. Like that controller looks baller as hell in the photo, but I bet it doesn't run anywhere near as well as an iPad, and the UX is probably a nightmare too. Dealer lock-in is almost a feature of these types of systems. If a dealer wants to, they can password a configuration to the point that you basically have to do a full reset of the hardware to write a new configuration, which means you also lose the old configuration. The UX is almost always custom to the install. The manufacturers do offer templates and design guides, but you can quickly get so far outside of the template that it might as well be a fully custom design. The Extron touchpanels I work with most of the time are resistive touchscreens, but they're quick and responsive unless you're doing some really weird poo poo with them. They do have newer touchpanels that are capacitive touch, but none of our customers have sprung for the added cost yet. Also, with Extron controllers, you actually can use an iPad as your primary control interface, or to replicate an existing touchscreen. Also, if you want to take full advantage of the capabilities of a system like that, you're going to be buying very specific TVs, displays, Blu-Ray players, etc, that have a serial port and/or ethernet for control. Not something that's usually available down at the local Best Buy. They do support IR for control, but the two-way communication between the controller and the device really enables a lot more resilient control options. A lot of devices are moving toward IP based control, but RS232 is alive and well in this market. If anyone has any questions about these "professional" type systems, I'll be happy to answer them.
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Jul 12, 2017 21:45
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stevewm posted:Stupidly this is standard on a LOT of smart bulbs and often cannot be changed. I can only assume this is so they will act like a normal bulb if you have them on a physical switch. Believe it or not "works with a light switch" was an important feature when the current smart bulbs came to market because the "smart" lights of an earlier generation behaved erratically if light switches were flipped, and, also lots of people were for some reason afraid of lights that didn't come on when you flipped the switch. I wonder if a few gens into this now, though maybe "works with a light switch" can be a setting, not an unchangeable thing.
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Jul 12, 2017 22:08
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Piggy Smalls posted::-P I meant it's a pretty sweet camera. Any recommendations on a good lock that can be opened as I arrive home so I don't have to fumble with keys? How good is Alexa to pair with nest products or any other products? Waste of money? Schlage Connect is pretty ballin and works with SmartThings.
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Jul 12, 2017 22:23
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Thermopyle posted:This is basically what I expected. I bet that the control interface isn't all that great. My expectation was that it'll be laggy, use poor screen tech (like resistive panels or TN panels or whatever), and will require their people to maintain it and make changes. I was hoping I was wrong. Check indigo domotics. No lag with anything and can use python for scripting if you need it
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Jul 13, 2017 09:37
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bobfather posted:This is no problem for Blue Iris. In the individual camera settings under the Record preferences there's an option to "cut video when triggered with break time" which will force Blue Iris to make individual clips for each event that sets off the camera. I wouldn't like having a billion files for small chunks of video nor would I like to have my Internet upload bandwidth constantly burdened with that upload stream. I have 7 cameras though and a not so great Internet connection in the boonies. I just have the hi-res alerts save to a Google Drive folder which syncs quickly so I can see the snapshots from anywhere. The snapshots almost always get a shot of what caused the trigger. The actual video goes to a NAS that I have well hidden and on a UPS of its own. If someone were to break in and truck everything out, I would (hopefully) still have the video on the NAS to go back and view.
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Jul 13, 2017 14:56
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sellouts posted:Check indigo domotics. No lag with anything and can use python for scripting if you need it That seems nice. I'm really leaning towards Home Assistant as I can run it on a Pi3. On the other hand I think OpenHAB has mobile apps... Unrelated: I'm trying to come up with a good solution for putting some cameras at a small apartment complex my parents own. I'm thinking some hikvision cameras, but I can't decide if I should find a closet somewhere to shove a PC running Blue Iris, or maybe I should use an NVR? The purpose of the cameras is to watch for vandals which they've been having more problems with. 1. If its an NVR, how well do such things do with motion detection triggered recording? Is that even worthwhile? 2. Is NVR remote access a thing? Is it any good? 3. Same remote access question about Blue Iris if I'm running it on premises. 4. I think my ideal solution would be to just have a router there and stream the cameras to a PC at my house, but I don't want to suck up that much bandwidth...is it possible to only have cameras stream on motion detection? In that case its like I'm offloading motion detection in a distributed fashion to the cameras...
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Jul 13, 2017 15:45
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So, I'm a dummy and left the garage open the other day. This got me thinking. I'm sure there are smart garage doors, but is there one that I can retrofit on an older unit? I don't own the house, so not really looking to replace the opener. The garage isnt attached to the house, so I was thinking about maybe getting like a nest camera and a remote door operator? Then I'd know if/when someone opens the garage and if/when I forget to close the fucker. I've got a lot of bikes and my area is known for bike theft  .
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Jul 13, 2017 16:04
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