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TARDISman posted:Thanks for the recommendations! I want to try and push myself to do some more of the DIY stuff like painting and other detailing since I've been spoiled pretty hard by Bandai. Also my gramps drove a Sherman in Europe so I've always had a soft spot for them, in fact my ultimate goal is to look through his memoirs and try to make as close to a replica of his tank as I can. Sounds great. Sherman's are pretty straight forward, and I've made a few Shermans, but of other brands:  Also there's a gazillion after-market kits for Sherman tanks, so you can get everything from sandbags to extra armour and stuff, depending on how much you want to bling out your Sherman.
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Jul 12, 2017 20:41
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With the D51 out of the way and the 2CV nearly done I have time to start up something new as I'm wont to do. Luckily just now, Hachette started a new weekly partwork and I got right on that. The Scharnhorst is Germanys first battleship built after world war 1 reproduced here in 1:200 scale. This is a 140 issue partwork developed by the designers of the 1:200 Bismarck partwork. Note me not saying Amati. It seems Amatis former design guy went and opened up a design studio of it's own. Which maybe explains why this build is kinda wonky. I needed three issues 1s to get one where the included gun turret was actually buildable instead of being a mess of gaps and wrongfulness. So I think that's a terrific start to something that will either be totally awesome or a horrible horrible letdown. Either way, we'll be entertained. As apparently partworks are not a usual thing in the US I'm trying to show a little bit how these things work and am aiming at weekly updates when each issue has been released. In essence each week you get a bunch of parts for your ship and a magazine containing instructions for this weeks building phase and some historical background. I'm also breaking the weekly update rule in about two days because you get a two-for this week with all the replacement issues I had. Issue: 1  Oh good, it's MDF. Fun. I love my wood dust being toxic. Remind me to get some new breathing masks. First phase. We build up part of the forward framework of the ship with the MDF parts and put together the body of the rear gun turret (this one's ABS). This particular turret has the bonus of actually fitting together for the most part, which was a major problem with the first version I got. The turret will be height adjustable, so that's nice. It's a bit bare right now, but that'll change next issue. The magazine has an introductory overview on the life of the Scharnhorst, the beginning of the u-boat war and the beginning of the Imperial German Navy in 1872. (To get the obvious out of the way: yes, these things are incredibly expensive, the whole kit when done in 3 years will have cost about 1000 euros. Yes that's 3 years of reporting in 140 updates. I've done the same for a bunch of other models of this type for a while now, so we'll probably see this to the end if the quality doesn't go down the tubes entirely.) Greyhawk fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jul 13, 2017 |
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Jul 13, 2017 22:11
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Greyhawk posted:With the D51 out of the way and the 2CV nearly done I have time to start up something new as I'm wont to do. Looking forward to this one, I always loved the lines of the Scharnhorst & Gneisenau, just beautiful ships. However the nerd in me has to clarify that these were really battlecruisers, not battleships. No battleship of that era would have the light armor of these two ships, and the 11" guns, while very heavy for a cruiser, were also woefully weak compared to the standard 15" or 16" battleship guns of the day. These ships were really built to be commerce raiders more than anything, as they were fast, extremely powerful compared to most convoy escorts, and could handily outrun any of the old battleships that might have been escorting some convoys.
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Jul 13, 2017 23:05
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Absolutely, the designation as battleship or battle cruiser for the Scharnhorst really depended on who you asked. The Germans liked to call it a battleship which is what I'm going with here for purposes of the build.
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Jul 13, 2017 23:29
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Greyhawk posted:Absolutely, the designation as battleship or battle cruiser for the Scharnhorst really depended on who you asked. The Germans liked to call it a battleship which is what I'm going with here for purposes of the build. Did you get this through Modelspace? I don't find it on their site.
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Jul 13, 2017 23:53
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No, it's Hachette. They don't operate in the US. https://scharnhorst-bauen.de/
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Jul 14, 2017 00:48
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Greyhawk posted:No, it's Hachette. They don't operate in the US. Ah, figures. I searched Hachette and got some strange toy company or something.  Thanks for the link.
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Jul 14, 2017 00:50
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Greyhawk posted:With the D51 out of the way and the 2CV nearly done I have time to start up something new as I'm wont to do. I'm not familiar with partwork kits. I'm guessing that it's essentially a kit that's released in bits and pieces kind of like a serialized novel. Is that right?
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Jul 14, 2017 13:32
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Serialised novels are in fact less common over here. Basically what happens is you get issue 1 with a whole pile of parts for LOW LOW PRICE, issue 2 with slightly fewer parts for low price, and then every issue from 3 onwards has a steadily decreasing number of parts for a slightly obscene price and in the end if you're lucky enough to not miss an issue you end up having massively overpaid for a kit over a period of years that would have been easily bought and built within a far shorter time. But there is some pleasure to be gotten from the incremental buying of toys every week I guess. Other partworks include reprints of graphic novels in a random order that eventually build up to a collection with a big spine artwork thing, military watch replicas, or die-cast military vehicles. The last of those usually start with something crazy popular in issue 1 like a Tiger or a Black Hawk and thus you end up getting solid wargames toys out of them for like three euro and thus buy six.
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Jul 14, 2017 14:58
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Gewehr 43 posted:I'm not familiar with partwork kits. I'm guessing that it's essentially a kit that's released in bits and pieces kind of like a serialized novel. Is that right? These kinds of weekly magazine kits are semi-popular in Australia. Basically each week you get a magazine with articles on whatever the kit relates to, along with a small number of parts for it and instructions for assembling them into the existing model. I actually still have the Real Robots ones somewhere, which let you (eventually) make some pretty nice programmable robots for what was an early 00's thing.
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Jul 14, 2017 15:45
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Arquinsiel posted:Serialised novels are in fact less common over here. Basically what happens is you get issue 1 with a whole pile of parts for LOW LOW PRICE, issue 2 with slightly fewer parts for low price, and then every issue from 3 onwards has a steadily decreasing number of parts for a slightly obscene price and in the end if you're lucky enough to not miss an issue you end up having massively overpaid for a kit over a period of years that would have been easily bought and built within a far shorter time. But there is some pleasure to be gotten from the incremental buying of toys every week I guess. Pretty much this, yes. With the difference being that the comically oversized model ships at least are usually not available anywhere else. The "missing an issue thing" is easily remedied by taking out a subscription. Other areas that partworks are now increasingly branching out to is needlework and baking/cooking where you receive wool and patterns / baking tools respectively. It's a bit like having Christmas every week. One nice thing is that there are a LOT of people that believe the lie that "the model can be easily built by a beginner", so they keep collecting the whole thing for 2 years and then when they get down to putting it together they notice they're massively ill-equipped to do so and you can snap the whole thing up on ebay for a quarter to half price. Most of my partworks are from there. Snapped up a 1200 Euro dollhouse for a hundred bucks last month. Not the Scharnhorst though, I'm doing this one "live".
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Jul 14, 2017 15:46
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What lacquer clear coat do you all like to use over acrylic? If it matters I mostly use the Tamiya Color solvent based acrylics.
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Jul 15, 2017 02:01
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I use Testors Gloss.
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Jul 15, 2017 02:10
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If you mean clear-gloss, I like Testors Gloss rattle-can. If you mean clear-matte, gotta go with Testors Dullcote rattle-can. There are a few products that are probably better than Dullcote, but most smell so bad that they're definitely killing a good portion of your brain. I can use Dullcote inside if I have a fan venting it, where using stuff like Army Painter Dulling Spray made me feel like I was losing math skills and various 80's trivia tidbits from my brain.
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Jul 15, 2017 02:23
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I just bought a respirator. It's really helpful, especially since stuff like high strength solvents is going to smell anyway.
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Jul 15, 2017 03:01
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Got that too, but that Army Painter stuff hangs around for a long time, and you can't wear the respirator forever. That stuff was seriously one of the most caustic rattle-cans I've had the misfortune of using. It works great, but not worth the side effects even outdoors.
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Jul 15, 2017 03:35
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Figured I'd take a couple of WIP pictures of the 1:48 Tamiya Douglas A1 Skyraider before I started the final steps of glosscoating, decaling, glosscoating, and weathering where I inevitably gently caress something up every time. Normally, I leave the wheel bay covers off until the very end, but this model requires them to be installed when the wings are put together. As a result, I had to use a ton of blue tack to mask the wheel wells. I've noticed on WW2 models, the wheel wells tend to be that yellow or green zinc chromate color, and on more modern aircraft, they are white. I think the zinc chromate looks better, but I'm doing this according to the instructions, so this one is going to be white.  And sure as poo poo, not 5 minutes after I took those pictures, I started clearcoating and must have gotten some clearcoat on my thumb when I was mixing it with thinner. I was wearing surgical gloves so I didn't notice until it was too late. It shouldn't be too hard to fix, so I'm not tossing this one in the garbage quite yet. 
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Jul 16, 2017 03:33
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As promised, here's update 2 to catch up with the current issue of the Scharnhorst partwork. The hull structure is expanded lengthwise with another segment and two frames are added. Now I already hear the gnashing of teeth about my lack of a building slip, but with the thickness and density of these MDF boards and the amount of supports and strengtheners that will be added starting next issue, I'm convinced I won't need one. I built the hull of the Bismarck without a slip and never had an issue and that one was much less robustly built. As long as one uses a precision angle and perfectly straight middle line to place the parts things should turn out ok.  I also get to add a bunch of photo etch parts to the rear 28cm gun turret. This is a bit unsual because normally partworks try and keep up the pretense that "anyone can build this even without any modeling experience" a little while longer. The PE is very nice to work with and beautifully detailed. The panzer visors and covers for the range finders look pretty much exactly like they did on the real Scharnhorst.
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Jul 16, 2017 14:30
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Greyhawk posted:Now I already hear the gnashing of teeth about my lack of a building slip 
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Jul 16, 2017 15:34
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Greyhawk posted:
Can you explain to me what the slip is so I can decide if I should be upset or not? Google results are only giving me pictures of shoes and nearby places to launch boats.
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Jul 16, 2017 16:00
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When you build a ship in wood you always run the risk of that wood warping due to changes in temperature, humidity and push pull forces of the different pieces affecting each other. In the worst case you end up building a banana instead of a ship. The building slip ensures the middle of the ship stays straight even under the influence of these forces. Pictured below is the one I used for the Soleil Royal, but any perfectly straight board of carpenters wood and a few metal angles nailed to it will do in a pinch. With the Scharnhorst there is much less risk of warpage due to the material and the way the structure itself is self-supporting. MDF is lots and lots of tiny wood fibres suspended in glue, which makes it pretty much impenetrable to water and other forces will be dissipated among all the fibres going in a myriad of directions. The disadvantage is that when it comes to sanding MDF is way more toxic than normal wood dust usually is. Also it just doesnt' look very nice and can't be easily recoloured with wood stain. I'm writing this same report for a bunch of forums at the same time. Usually when someone starts a build without a building slip, on ship building forums you see a lot of people getting irrationally angry over that fact. So that's where the "gnashing of teeth" line comes from.
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Jul 16, 2017 16:45
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WHERE IS YOUR loving SLIP 1/350 Supermarine Walrus take 2:  Much better with the PE struts. Think I can tart up the painting a bit, and do some new decals.
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Jul 16, 2017 17:28
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RATTE SCRATCH FEVER After seeing the previous photos, I made a few changes, adjusting my palette a bit. (Note to self: one day build some armor with a cut grass camo)     Unkempt posted:WHERE IS YOUR loving SLIP
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Jul 16, 2017 17:53
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SkunkDuster posted:Can you explain to me what the slip is so I can decide if I should be upset or not? Google results are only giving me pictures of shoes and nearby places to launch boats. Greyhawk used a fancy one in his picture. They are often also called a 'building board' or just 'build board'. Here is what I used for my sloop build:   It holds the keel vertical and in theory prevents warping while you add all the bulkheads, but as you can see in this picture, I pretty much never used it except to hold the keel when I wasn't working on it.  For the guys who do true framed construction it's a very important piece because it also has the plan-view laminated onto it to help with the placement of parts, and is part of a larger building 'jig' used to assemble the ship. For the two projects I have currently underway, I have not even bothered to make a build board for them, and they both have all the bulkheads added at this point.
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Jul 16, 2017 18:22
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SkunkDuster posted:Figured I'd take a couple of WIP pictures of the 1:48 Tamiya Douglas A1 Skyraider before I started the final steps of glosscoating, decaling, glosscoating, and weathering where I inevitably gently caress something up every time.  
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Jul 17, 2017 01:44
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Nebakenezzer posted:RATTE SCRATCH FEVER This is a fantastic idea. Also, I've been meaning to paint something with ambush camo plaid for the longest time. I keep forgetting every time I start painting sometime.
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Jul 17, 2017 02:50
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After a full day of building and photoetch.   The only thing missing is the tracks, I can't for the life of me get link and length to work or look ok. I have one piece resin tracks coming from OKB. Hopefully I can sneak them under the guards without too much trouble.
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Jul 17, 2017 14:25
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One piece... resin? Do you mean vinyl? Because the only way I can think of resin tracks that would work in one piece is if you had to heat them up and bend them around the suspension, which sounds terrible.
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Jul 17, 2017 15:09
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Here's an example, I guess because they are so thin just a hairdryer will get them pliable. 
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Jul 17, 2017 15:34
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Oh wow, that doesn't look half bad. Definitely better than vinyl. Where did you buy them from?
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Jul 17, 2017 16:42
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I'm curious I just sprayed some tamiya flat coat and am wondering what's a good amount of time to wait before I start weathering.
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Jul 17, 2017 22:28
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Ensign Expendable posted:Oh wow, that doesn't look half bad. Definitely better than vinyl. Where did you buy them from? Straight from the source in mother Russia, http://shop.okbgrigorov.com They are also available on Tracks and Troops and maybe some other stores that specialise in 1:72.
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Jul 17, 2017 23:19
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Ah, Grigorov does some good poo poo. Nothing really in my scale, though.
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Jul 18, 2017 04:24
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The_Rob posted:I'm curious I just sprayed some tamiya flat coat and am wondering what's a good amount of time to wait before I start weathering. I always wait 24 hours for these to dry and I've never had any problems.
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Jul 18, 2017 15:49
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My airbrush is bubbling paint around the trigger. I assume I need to tighten the O-ring but, but I don't have a screwdriver small enough to reach it
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Jul 18, 2017 17:55
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Once you do get a driver, you may want to take the teflon seals out and inspect them. They don't last forever, and will eventually need to be replaced. Are you oiling the needle when you reassemble after cleaning? Often the fine film of oil on the needle is enough to complete the seal between the needle and the teflon seals.
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Jul 18, 2017 20:19
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I only had this airbrush for six months and painted maybe three tanks with it, so I don't think it's worn out yet. I don't use lubricant, I'll try that too.
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Jul 18, 2017 20:53
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Do you spray lacquer based paints? Depending on what kind of packing is used in your brush, that could've sped up the degradation of the packing/o-ring. Also, for those of you who use respirators, do you wear it whenever you're working with solvents, or only when airbrushing?
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Jul 18, 2017 22:11
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If you need oil for things like airbrushes, sewing machine oil is a cheap source. Sold online or in craft/fabric stores, you can buy it in small containers and its suitable for small machinery.
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Jul 18, 2017 22:25
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Symetrique posted:Do you spray lacquer based paints? Depending on what kind of packing is used in your brush, that could've sped up the degradation of the packing/o-ring. Some Tamiya paints. Do those degrade rubber? I mostly switched to Vallejo anyway. I wear one the whole time I'm airbrushing or using solvents. The only exception is odourless turpentoid.
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Jul 18, 2017 22:27
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