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mango sentinel posted:Goblin Green Why not at this point!  I really need to take better pictures. I phone posted those, and now that I'm home on my computer I'm regretting it. I'll try some stuff out once I get my flowers and stuff. Edit: poo poo, um, here's a picture of some other person's loving bananas Eldar paint job.  Edit 2: Here's another because loving  
Kabuki Shipoopi fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 23:08
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bonds0097 posted:I think your blue came out very similar to the box art. I think he looks good. Thanks man. He looks fine enough from a distance. I think I'm a little burned out on painting Space Marines, which works out since all my Blood Bowl stuff just arrived.
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Jul 12, 2017 23:14
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Sorry if this has been answered, but what is the go-to matte finish spray? I think I've heard Testors Dull Coat is good, but if there's a Krylon that's similar I'd like to get that.
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Jul 13, 2017 00:59
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Booyah- posted:Sorry if this has been answered, but what is the go-to matte finish spray? I think I've heard Testors Dull Coat is good, but if there's a Krylon that's similar I'd like to get that. I use Krylon myself. http://www.krylon.com/products/crystal-clear-acrylic/
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Jul 13, 2017 01:01
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Current progress on my lovely paintjobs, taken with equally lovely camera. Probably going to paint over the nurgle symbols, my first attempt at freehanding them. 
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Jul 13, 2017 01:16
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Looks pretty sweet to me 
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Jul 13, 2017 02:51
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:About basing, I know black is the standard Rhinox Hide:  Steel Legion Drab:   PROS ONLY GOBLIN GREEN
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Jul 13, 2017 04:55
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rim color, but is there anything you guys would think might look alright besides black?
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Zuul the Cat posted:Mostly finished my Primaris Libarian. Not super happy with how he turned out. There's some spots i need to touch up, but mostly the blue ended up being more muted than I wanted. It's my first time painting blue power armor. The current GW standard is a brighter blue to highlight, but finer highlights- you might find using the edge of your brush gets better results. The yellow highlights are a little too stark- but then I'd have that be the more standard colour, with a mix of yellow and white as the highlight, personally. Though learning about doing cloth as blending rather than highlighting might help it look more realistic. Oh, and a wash of nuln oil on the base before the drybrush might make it look more real, currently the lack of recesses seems to make it different.
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Jul 13, 2017 06:51
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First try at Zenithal Highlighting ™. It didn't go too well. My airbrush was fighting me every step of the way at the end. There were times even during just the base coat of green that I could spray full air with the trigger all the way back and get no paint. There was a pretty hardcore clog that I ended up cleaning out of the thing by the end (I'm using an Iwata Neo CN) These are some goblins from the Reaper Bones line, plus some Citadel wash. I've since added details, but the paint job is coming along kinda rough, keep losing detail as I go.
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Jul 13, 2017 10:37
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Sharkman posted:First try at Zenithal Highlighting ™. It didn't go too well. My airbrush was fighting me every step of the way at the end. There were times even during just the base coat of green that I could spray full air with the trigger all the way back and get no paint. There was a pretty hardcore clog that I ended up cleaning out of the thing by the end (I'm using an Iwata Neo CN) Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver is amazing - I pretty much couldn't live without the stuff anymore. Edit: To expand on this - I think one of two things is probably happening; a) You're pushing too much air through the brush, causing the paint to dry on the tip b) You're painting too thick, causing the clogging Airbrush Flow Improver will help with both of these issues. The only time I don't use it in my brush is when i'm priming with surface primer, in which case I'll use more traditional thinner. peonic fucked around with this message at 11:28 on Jul 13, 2017 |
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Jul 13, 2017 11:16
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Booyah- posted:Sorry if this has been answered, but what is the go-to matte finish spray? I think I've heard Testors Dull Coat is good, but if there's a Krylon that's similar I'd like to get that. The testers dull coat is better but I use the rustoleum because volume and I also use it during the process as a workable fixatif (-tive? IDK)
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Jul 13, 2017 13:21
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Wazzu posted:Oh, and a wash of nuln oil on the base before the drybrush might make it look more real, currently the lack of recesses seems to make it different. I had the bright light which kinda washes it out. It's not that dull in person. I'm going for a more ashy look, sorta like moon dust, so i instead went no wash and heavy dry brush to pick out all the details.
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Jul 13, 2017 16:57
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Booyah- posted:Sorry if this has been answered, but what is the go-to matte finish spray? I think I've heard Testors Dull Coat is good, but if there's a Krylon that's similar I'd like to get that. I use this if I'm using a rattle can http://www.krylon.ca/products/matte-finish/ No issues. Now I have an airbrush I just shoot through this (undiluted) http://www.liquitex.com/mattemedium/?terms=matte
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Jul 13, 2017 16:59
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:My first Primaris Marine for my 4th Company: Would love to know your Blue Formula. Still trying to figure out my Ultras.
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Jul 13, 2017 19:02
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Harkano posted:Would love to know your Blue Formula. Still trying to figure out my Ultras. Literally just the default vanilla GW Saint Duncan approved method. Macragge blue basecoat, recess shade nuln oil, calgar blue edge highlight, and fenrisian grey extreme edge highlight.
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Jul 13, 2017 19:20
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Literally just the default vanilla GW Saint Duncan approved method. Macragge blue basecoat, recess shade nuln oil, calgar blue edge highlight, and fenrisian grey extreme edge highlight.   I followed basically the same recipe, but I'm wondering if it's just my bad lighting making the difference. Everyone else's Macragge seems to look more vibrant  (for reference it's airbrushed Macragge Air over black primer)Edit: also only the Hellblaster has been highlighted, Lt is still very WIP
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Jul 13, 2017 21:49
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It doesn't look like you're highlighting everything. I'd make sure you hit all or most of the panels with the highlight. Either another coat of your basecoat or a zenithal highlight of white over your black primer might also give you a bit more saturation on the base. The lighting doesn't help, but hitting all the (appropriate) edges helps tons more than lighting, You can also go over the highlights again with your basecoat to tidy them up so they're only on the edges. I'm not really steady enough to get them right first go, but it isn't too hard to shave the highlights down to where they actually should be afterwards.
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Jul 13, 2017 22:07
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Harkano posted:
The top guy looks mostly fine, but you could add more highlights. The elbowpad should have a line highlight on top corner and edges, The leg boot should have a edge highlight on the top of the panel, The round bit on the boot, etc. The bottom guys look like you're not quite done with the details but are otherwise pretty okay. Honestly I think all those guys look super good as is. My only real complaint is the white looks muddy. But white is IMO the hardest color to paint that there is. (And the ultra toilet on the top guy is great white, so maybe you're just not done on the bottom?)
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Jul 13, 2017 22:36
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Felime posted:It doesn't look like you're highlighting everything. I'd make sure you hit all or most of the panels with the highlight. Either another coat of your basecoat or a zenithal highlight of white over your black primer might also give you a bit more saturation on the base. Zaphod42 posted:The top guy looks mostly fine, but you could add more highlights. The elbowpad should have a line highlight on top corner and edges, The leg boot should have a edge highlight on the top of the panel, The round bit on the boot, etc. Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try to get more highlights on them. The Lt is really just basecoated, and both need another coat or two of the white (also need to somehow do a really straight line of red on the head for the Lt marking). I was just trying to capture the blue to share with that shot, but I think I might have to go dig the lightbox out of the attic to get a comparable picture
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Jul 14, 2017 00:17
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Harkano posted:also need to somehow do a really straight line of red on the head for the Lt marking Micron pens work some crazy witch doctor voodoo magic, man. 
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Jul 14, 2017 04:34
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Harkano posted:Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try to get more highlights on them. The Lt is really just basecoated, and both need another coat or two of the white (also need to somehow do a really straight line of red on the head for the Lt marking). If Microns aren't your thing, seal the mini, lay down painter's tape so that only the stripe area is shown. Paint, remove tape.
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Jul 14, 2017 04:46
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I feel like I haven't seen a proper 30k Thousand Sons Storm Eagle yet, so I decided to try painting one using the Xiphon in Book 7 as an example. 
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Jul 14, 2017 05:59
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Ghazk posted:I feel like I haven't seen a proper 30k Thousand Sons Storm Eagle yet, so I decided to try painting one using the Xiphon in Book 7 as an example. This is really, really good. Whoever suggested picking up perfect plastic putty from deluxe materials, thankyou. I just tried it for the first time and it is incredible for smoothing and gap filling. I can't believe anyone is still using milliput and GS when this stuff exists.
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Jul 14, 2017 06:02
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How does it compare to other one-part putties (e.g. Tamiya, Mr. White Putty, Squadron)?
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Jul 14, 2017 06:05
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Avenging Dentist posted:How does it compare to other one-part putties (e.g. Tamiya, Mr. White Putty, Squadron)? Out of those I've only ever used squadron white, and it seems a lot smoother. Absolutely zero smell.Its like working with unscented toothpaste that cures enough to be handled without worry in about 10 minutes.
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Jul 14, 2017 06:09
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Ghazk posted:I feel like I haven't seen a proper 30k Thousand Sons Storm Eagle yet, so I decided to try painting one using the Xiphon in Book 7 as an example. This is rad as hell
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Jul 14, 2017 06:09
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Does anyone here have experience with warcolours? Dude at the club told me about it yesterday and watching some videos, it looks like an acrylic oil paint, the video below has one brush wetblending due to its consistency. i'm tempted to order some! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-ICWnMpnAw
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Jul 14, 2017 13:19
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Ghazk posted:I feel like I haven't seen a proper 30k Thousand Sons Storm Eagle yet, so I decided to try painting one using the Xiphon in Book 7 as an example. This is absolutely fantastic. TTerrible posted:Whoever suggested picking up perfect plastic putty from deluxe materials, thankyou. I just tried it for the first time and it is incredible for smoothing and gap filling. I can't believe anyone is still using milliput and GS when this stuff exists. EDIT: Yikes, it costs twice as much for the same amount of Mr. Putty. Is it that much better? berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 13:50
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Crosspostin' some Deathwatch:MasterSlowPoke posted:Finished up another batch of Deathwatch!
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Jul 14, 2017 14:37
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Crosspostin' some Deathwatch: Those look rad. I've got a load of Deathwatch built as well, but the Primaris release has really put me off finishing them, they feel so small now! X-posting my Ultrabros: Just finished Uriel Ventris and the first few of the Swords of Calth, with a MkX upgrade of course: 
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Jul 14, 2017 14:53
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So, I've been painting miniatures on and off since high school (more D&D fantasy stuff than WarHammer though), and I've recently gotten back into it again. Right now I just use cheap Apple Barrel craft paint from Wal-Mart and no air-brushing or anything fancy, so that's my excuse for my work not looking as nice as some of yours. Here's what I just (almost) finished, I'd welcome any feedback:  I'm also just using a camera phone, desk lamp, and computer paper for pictures, once I get the white balance to look better I'll share more.
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Jul 14, 2017 15:15
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Eh! Frank posted:Here's what I just (almost) finished, I'd welcome any feedback: Here's my feedback: Use real hobby paint and you'll be hitting it out of the park. Even with crap paint, that's a very good paint job you have there.
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Jul 14, 2017 15:36
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berzerkmonkey posted:Here's my feedback: Use real hobby paint and you'll be hitting it out of the park. Even with crap paint, that's a very good paint job you have there. This. Using some decent paint is going to make things a lot easier to work with But yeah, that looks real good. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 16:02
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berzerkmonkey posted:Here's my feedback: Use real hobby paint and you'll be hitting it out of the park. Even with crap paint, that's a very good paint job you have there. Seconding (thirding?) the hobby paint. The pigments in most water-based acrylic hobby paints are much finer than the craft paints, and are easier to work with in small detail projects like miniatures. (Craft paints still have their place, but for larger items such as terrain or vehicles, where the details may not be as intricate.) Nice 1st-edition Demogorgon (and a very nice paint job)! Who makes that?
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Jul 14, 2017 16:22
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Seconding (thirding?) the hobby paint. The pigments in most water-based acrylic hobby paints are much finer than the craft paints, and are easier to work with in small detail projects like miniatures. (Craft paints still have their place, but for larger items such as terrain or vehicles, where the details may not be as intricate.) Yeah, apple barrel is a pretty good excuse. And that looks great for your tools. It's hard to critique someone when there's such a big elephant in the room making it hard to know what is technique and what is the obvious. I assume you're mostly drybrushing/overbrushing? The Loincloth looks a bit chalky/drybrushed for leather, and you might want to try blending/layering there, but it might just be the paints you're using. Part of me wants to suggest blending in the nose patches more, but I think having them really distinct actually works for that model and look.
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Jul 14, 2017 16:44
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Nice 1st-edition Demogorgon (and a very nice paint job)! Who makes that? It's done by Reaper http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/demonic%20lasher/latest/02716 Felime posted:It's hard to critique someone when there's such a big elephant in the room making it hard to know what is technique and what is the obvious. I assume you're mostly drybrushing/overbrushing? The Loincloth looks a bit chalky/drybrushed for leather, and you might want to try blending/layering there, but it might just be the paints you're using. I tend to use a lot of washes and only some drybrushing, but yeah, the loincloth has a lot of drybrushing. I'm not entirely happy with that part, my original wash came out patchy & chalky and I did a couple more passes at it, trying different colors and such to try to get it to blend. The paints I've been using don't have great consistency and like to clump up or spread unevenly, even when I water them down, so I eventually just said "Good enough", since I'm just doing this for myself right now. I mostly posted the initial picture to get some feedback from others in the hobby instead of just friends that don't know much about it (I always love getting the question "Did you carve that?"), and to make sure it's not something that'd end up in the "Unspiration" sister thread. Thanks for the feedback so far, everybody
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Jul 14, 2017 16:58
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berzerkmonkey posted:I was just going to ask about putty. How does it sand? Can you smooth it with a wet tool or finger? It sands well, water based cleanup so I've been smoothing using rubber sculpting tools and a water pot. Price wise I paid £7~ for a 40ml tube. I've no idea how much Mr Putty costs
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Jul 14, 2017 17:10
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berzerkmonkey posted:EDIT: Yikes, it costs twice as much for the same amount of Mr. Putty. Is it that much better? Mr. Putty is amazing (or at least Mr. Dissolved Putty is), although the smell is pretty strong. In particular, Mr. Dissolved Putty is amazing for smoothing really small divots, since I've never seen anything sand down as thin as it. Every other putty I've tried eventually shreds itself when you get down to just a tiny, tiny sliver on the model. I'm going to be picking up some Mr. White Putty and Mr. White Putty R to mess with, so I'll post about them once I've had a chance to try them out. Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 17:43
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Crosspostin' some Deathwatch: Cool and good, as are the dudes below your post.
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Jul 14, 2017 18:17
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Testing out a photography setup with a couple of miniatures I painted a few years ago  And I just realized I chose two where I cheated and didn't do pupils. Still, I like the way the pictures turned out, it's a miracle what just some white-balance does to improve the quality. edit: While I'm at it, a better picture of my demogorgon  And I love this face 
Eh! Frank fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 19:16
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