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Any advice for hills? Most of them are fine but there's one with a stop sign at the top that's on my regular commute, and 9/10 times I stall as soon as I clutch in.
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Jul 13, 2017 18:56
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 00:15 |
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more gas until you get the hang of it
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Jul 13, 2017 18:59
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Use the rear brake.
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Jul 13, 2017 21:30
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Sagebrush posted:Use the rear brake. not emptyquoting.
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Jul 13, 2017 21:32
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Yeah I've been reading articles and it sounds like that may be the way to go. Going to swing by this afternoon and test it out and then feel like an idiot for missing something so simple
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Jul 13, 2017 22:48
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Aprilia: Trailer parts are an upgrade Nope they're very small. The mod is very common on bikes that have two bulb brake lights and separate turn signals. It lets the two bulbs do the job of both brake light and signal. It looks very clean, and at least on the bikes I've had are still pretty darn visible. The unit that razzled has was something like $150 and did just the exact same thing. - CURT Manufacturing Trailer Harness Adapter 58240 is what I used on a bike back in 2012
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Jul 13, 2017 22:51
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How interchangeable are different fuel injectors? Is it a thing where everyone makes their own and there's a huge ecosystem of unique per-bike units that don't quite fit anything else and use different types of control signal, or is it the sort of deal where there's maybe five sizes and they're all made by one company in Japan?
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Jul 13, 2017 23:18
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n8r posted:Nope they're very small. The mod is very common on bikes that have two bulb brake lights and separate turn signals. It lets the two bulbs do the job of both brake light and signal. It looks very clean, and at least on the bikes I've had are still pretty darn visible. The unit that razzled has was something like $150 and did just the exact same thing. Ah, I'm thinking of he bigger box that goes in the tow vehicle. My lack of knowledge about trailers bigger than by folding harbor freight trailer is showing.
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Jul 14, 2017 00:54
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Renaissance Robot posted:How interchangeable are different fuel injectors? Is it a thing where everyone makes their own and there's a huge ecosystem of unique per-bike units that don't quite fit anything else and use different types of control signal, or is it the sort of deal where there's maybe five sizes and they're all made by one company in Japan? There's a handful of different manufacturers that don't interchange but tend to have identical plugs and specs within their brand AFAIK. Flow ratings all differ from bike to bike though so even two outwardly identical injectors that would both function on the same system can have drastically different ratings internally.
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Jul 14, 2017 02:04
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Retro Futurist posted:Any advice for hills? Most of them are fine but there's one with a stop sign at the top that's on my regular commute, and 9/10 times I stall as soon as I clutch in. Sometimes it's better to just not quite stop at these if sight lines and traffic allows it. I mean I do that at like, most stop signs, but you know. If you normally stop all the way this can be an exception.
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Jul 14, 2017 04:44
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nsaP posted:Sometimes it's better to just not quite stop at these if sight lines and traffic allows it. I tend to skip the bottom one since the view is wide open there and I'd see someone coming well away, but the hill one is at a school zone with a crosswalk right around the corner of it, there's no remotely safe way at all to skip it
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Jul 14, 2017 06:34
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I've got this on my daily (kids and parents, then double-parked cars at the church, then a blind uphill with give-ways at both ends. it's fun). As mentioned, get good feathering the brake as you clutch in, combined with revving harder than you normally would. You can practise that in a parking lot. I find that picking a line that lets you come out straight for a bit helps too - you don't have to worry about braking while turning in until the clutch engages. So angle before the stop a bit if that's possible. Obviously, don't overrun the turn.
a cute sea otter fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 13:18
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Retro Futurist posted:I tend to skip the bottom one since the view is wide open there and I'd see someone coming well away, but the hill one is at a school zone with a crosswalk right around the corner of it, there's no remotely safe way at all to skip it The back brake is your friend, I can't even tell you what I do with it because I don't think about it (I'm assuming feathering the brake as I let the clutch out), but when I went from wearing high tops (I know) to motorcycle boots I stalled the bike a couple of times on hills because of the increased weight on the back brake. Maybe you're worried about going back a bit and using too much brake?
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Jul 14, 2017 18:02
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Retro Futurist posted:Any advice for hills? Most of them are fine but there's one with a stop sign at the top that's on my regular commute, and 9/10 times I stall as soon as I clutch in. Pin the throttle and dump the clutch.
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Jul 15, 2017 14:56
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Last night I replaceed the case gaskets on the DR650, and removed/reinstalled the clutch basket to safety wire the NSU underneath it. Everything seemed to go back together ok, but now it won't engage any gears. I have not started the bike yet, but rolling it in any gear has no resistance. How did I break this poor bike?
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Jul 15, 2017 16:09
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Digital_Jesus posted:Pin the throttle and dump the clutch.
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Jul 15, 2017 16:14
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More electrical problems anyone? I bought a 1982 Yamaha Maxim 650. When I picked it up and drove it home everything worked. Get on it the other day and I've got speedo, gauge lights and the running lights work (head, rear, and front turns stay lit) as well as the high beam working and high beam light and oil pressure light work on the gauge cluster. Nothing else works, no tach, no turn signals, no horn no brake light, no rear turns, no neutral light, no turn signal light on gauges. Well I wiggled some poo poo, checked connectors, replaced a shakey looking ground, and checked the fuses and they were all good. I took it for a ride and during the ride the tachometer came back. Then I noticed while riding I could kill the tach by using something else in the electrical system. For instance, the tach would be reading and I could hit the horn button, or turn signals, or brake lights, etc. and they wouldn't work and would also kill the tach. Then let the horn go, let off the brake, shut off the turn signals and the tach would power right back up. What do you guys think? Is this a complete disassemble job and check the whole wiring harness?
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Jul 15, 2017 17:07
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Coydog posted:Last night I replaceed the case gaskets on the DR650, and removed/reinstalled the clutch basket to safety wire the NSU underneath it. Everything seemed to go back together ok, but now it won't engage any gears. I have not started the bike yet, but rolling it in any gear has no resistance. Did you get the clutch rack release back on correctly? When I did my 350, it took a couple times to get it properly aligned and mated with both the actuator and basket.
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Jul 15, 2017 18:06
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It's starting to dawn on me that this problem would be caused if something was slightly keeping the clutch plates apart, inside the case. I did have some trouble getting that rack release post to mate up with the cover, and ended up finally getting it shoved on. Gears pointed forwards, and my thought was that the cover would pop back off if it was on wrong.
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Jul 15, 2017 18:25
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Sorry to double post. Hoped it would get more attention if the other one was already read. I took the clutch side of things apart again, and can confirm that when I hand turn the center plate, it will attempt to turn the tire/chain. So this means that the gearing works, but the clutch is being disengaged. When I first removed the cover, I tried to get that clutch rack pin to turn in the bearing, but had a ton of resistance, like something was pressed up against the bearing. Maybe pressed up against the center nut underneath, which was slightly disengaging the clutch? With the plate off, I can spin the bearing freely. Does this bearing look right? Shouldn't it be seated all the way down into that recess? I can't push it further in, though, and would need to heat the part for it to slide in. I feel like I got all the other stuff installed in order, with no extra parts left over. So I'm really quite baffled.  
Coydog fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 19:52
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I would say yes seat that bearing. I have never seen a manufacturer not fully support a bearing outer race before. E: confirmed. http://www.cyclepedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/suzuki_dr650se_engine_clutch_pressure_plate_service.jpg Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 20:01
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Im not claiming to know the exact details but thats not seated all the way. The shiny band in the housing is a good indicator of where it should be. Bearings usually require a little force to go all the way in a housing, especially if they don't go in exactly straight. I would suggest finding a socket that fits the outer race and giving it a few taps with a hammer to seat it. Either that or use a press. Heating things up isn't the way to go in this case unless you fully remove the bearing, and even then it increases the risk of cocking it slightly in the housing which makes for a mess if you don't catch it.
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Jul 15, 2017 20:09
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I have the bearing fully removed from the housing, and the plate is currently in the oven. You are saying it wont drop cleanly in? That I'm better hammering it in?!
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Jul 15, 2017 20:34
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They almost never go in exactly straight which is what causes them to bind and using a driver or a press is a common, acceptable method. You don't have to wail on it like king kong, light taps in a circular motion will do it. Think about it for a minute, how would you change a bearing race in a headstock. You certainly cant put that in the oven, they are driven in. E: Heres a great video by a respected mechanic showing how he installs wheel bearings. He heats things up slightly but ultimately uses a hammer and pounds them in. Personally I just tap them in. https://youtu.be/qaKcgFy6e64 rdb fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 20:49
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Yeah they are never drop in. You'll have to hammer it in (on the outer race!)
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Jul 15, 2017 21:12
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Ok, I heated up the plate to like 400F, and put the bearing in the freezer. It dropped right down in the opening, evenly and fully. My only worry now is part of the bearing (with the numbers) seems to be deformed in, while the rest is straight. Hopefully I didn't hit the wrong thing with the mallet when tapping the outer races. I'm sorry I ignored your advice and heated/chilled the parts. I didn't have anything the exact size as the races, and wanted it in right now right now. 
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Jul 15, 2017 21:25
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The heat/freeze tactic is totally valid, it just takes longer
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Jul 15, 2017 21:35
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Spin the inner race with your finger and feel for any spots where it binds. If the bearing is deformed, it'll feel like a slightly sticky spot somewhere in the rotation, or (if it's really bad) a sort of "stop" that you have to push through to get it to keep rotating. If it spins smoothly and feels the same all the way around, it's fine.
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Jul 15, 2017 21:45
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In the future, you can also try just putting a chip of dry ice on top of the bearing.
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Jul 16, 2017 04:09
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builds character posted:In the future, you can also try just putting a chip of dry ice on top of the bearing. I never have dry ice around, but that's pretty neat. HenryJLittlefinger, Jim Silly-Balls, rdb, Sagebrush, and builds character- Thank you so much for your input and help today. Bearing was fine, and everything worked perfectly once I got it seated and everything installed. Took the chance to get rid of the loud FMF, and install a quieter GSXR exhaust. Makes all sorts of fun dirtbikey noises now, I love it. This thing has a been a real pain since I got it two weeks ago, and I haven't been able to ride it more than 30 minutes until today. Took a loooooong summer night ride to celebrate. 
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Jul 16, 2017 04:23
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I was looking at brake discs now for my nx250 as the old one is a bit worn ( not at service life minimum yet). From what I can find I can get oem discs, oem lookalike discs, brembo round design size upgrades with adapters for stock the caliper mount and misc wavey / slotted designs. I get the logic of how a braided steel line is an upgrade over old style rubber with fiber reinforcement, less force is lost in deflection of the line, but how much has less rotational mass with wave designs and more grip edges/ gas escape slots with overall effectiveness of stopping power? It is a small gravel tourer with a nissin 2 pot caliper and a tiiiny disc. Max total weight with me and luggage is about 220kg/485 lbs. It a small 250cc with almost 25hp.. Will I benefit noticeably from getting anything else than oem?
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Jul 16, 2017 09:02
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It's not a huge difference as long as the rotors / pads are in good shape.
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Jul 16, 2017 11:23
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Any tips for moving a suit on a bike? I've got one of those nylon sleeve things for it, which hangs off the wing mirror quite happily for city riding, but I need to get it up the motorway tomorrow and I'm not sure how best to go about it.
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Jul 17, 2017 21:00
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Wear it.
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Jul 17, 2017 21:09
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yeah wear it. or uber there and back. or walk like i did
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Jul 17, 2017 21:24
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Renaissance Robot posted:Any tips for moving a suit on a bike? I've got one of those nylon sleeve things for it, which hangs off the wing mirror quite happily for city riding, but I need to get it up the motorway tomorrow and I'm not sure how best to go about it. Fold/roll sleeve, put into a bag, strap bag to bike.
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Jul 17, 2017 22:28
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bigbillystyle posted:More electrical problems anyone? Just bumping that in case anybody had input.
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Jul 17, 2017 23:06
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Renaissance Robot posted:Any tips for moving a suit on a bike? I've got one of those nylon sleeve things for it, which hangs off the wing mirror quite happily for city riding, but I need to get it up the motorway tomorrow and I'm not sure how best to go about it. Put it in a garment bag, then hang that on your back or roll it up and put it in a backpack. Decent wool will be just fine and won't wrinkle from this during the time your commute takes.
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Jul 18, 2017 00:09
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bigbillystyle posted:Just bumping that in case anybody had input.
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Jul 18, 2017 01:19
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 00:15 |
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bigbillystyle posted:Just bumping that in case anybody had input. I wanted to help so bad but you checked everything I could think of, so I thought "I hope Rev sees this". And, well. There you go.
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Jul 18, 2017 01:33
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