|
I have a cheapo painters mask I use when spraying anything outdoors, or airbrushing acrylics. I step up to a full respirator when I'm spraying anything noxious indoors, or sanding large amounts of resin.
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2017 22:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 17:50 |
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:I have a cheapo painters mask I use when spraying anything outdoors, or airbrushing acrylics. I step up to a full respirator when I'm spraying anything noxious indoors, or sanding large amounts of resin. I sand MDF before priming it with rustoleum and gluing it together with some solvent based glue all in an enclosed room 
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2017 22:30
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Some Tamiya paints. Do those degrade rubber? I mostly switched to Vallejo anyway. Unless you thinned them with lacquer thinner, I dont think so.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2017 22:34
|
|
|
I got some lube and it's working fine again, so looks like no tightening is necessary for now. I still got a set of precision screwdrivers just in case. Although, my paint is bubbling in the cup now, so while I'm not getting paint all over my hand anymore, there's still some kind of issue.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 01:04
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:I got some lube and it's working fine again, so looks like no tightening is necessary for now. I still got a set of precision screwdrivers just in case. Although, my paint is bubbling in the cup now, so while I'm not getting paint all over my hand anymore, there's still some kind of issue. Probably dry tip or a clogged nozzle.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 01:26
|
|
|
Gewehr 43 posted:Probably dry tip or a clogged nozzle. This, or the nozzle simply isn't tight enough. An old trick is to use a bit of Chap-Stick on the threads of the nozzle, to act as a thread-sealant. Just the tiniest bit, to fill in any crevices between the threads. I've used it before and it works great. Just make sure you don't have so much that tightening the nozzle will cause it to squish out and block the nozzle itself. I find the nozzle O-ring is one of the first parts on an airbrush to wear out. The constant on an off again nature of the nozzle wears it out quickly, and lack of use dries it out and makes it brittle. A little Chap-Stick keeps things sealed up, and keeps the O-ring pliant.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 01:35
|
|
|
One of my favorite parts of this hobby is the insane repurposing of normal objects. "Oh yeah, I sealed my plastic tank with floor sealer using an airbrush sealed with chapstick. The tank has tracks softened with a hair dryer, and weathering effects accomplished with cheap hairspray and table salt. The frame antenna is a coat hanger, and the dirt is Georgia clay I ground between two rocks."
Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jul 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 04:17
|
|
|
I just recently saw some really good 1:1 scale rust-corroded metal done using various spices 
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 08:02
|
|
|
I've used a hacksaw blade to make zimmerit, but the best I've seen was plumbers tape used to make perfectly folded looking cloth/tarp in small scale.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 09:44
|
|
|
Scharnhorst Issue 3 Side beams and lateral supports are added to the hull structure. The rear turret is fitted with barrels. Those are are cast not lathed, which made some people unhappy, but after a quick rub with 400 grit sandpaper and a polish with steel wool, they look totally fine for me. This is the last of the teaser issues where they lure you in with neat stuff that's actually only needed later in the build like the turret. The build will now concentrate fully on the hull structure in the following issues.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2017 09:45
|
|
|
 Waiting on the latest hobby shop parcel which will have that black masking putty I've seen on the YouTube's. Once that arrives I can move on to the three tone with dots. My first time trying colour modulation too!
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 11:06
|
|
|
I just use silly putty. It had yet to let me down. I'm just trying preshading, myself. I've attempted it before, but I guess the colour was too dark for it to make a difference.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 14:41
|
|
|
1/72 scale, $400 US  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZRGX6T
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 17:00
|
|
|
Vintersorg posted:1/72 scale, $400 US Minor explanation; Perfect Grade is Bandai's "Not loving Around" scale in gunpla, with 1:60 scale Gundam kits (High Grade is 1:144 and Master Grade is 1:100 scale respectively) Though even Perfect Grade gunpla tops out around the $160-200 mark, and that's for the ones using an LED kit.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 17:56
|
|
|
Neddy Seagoon posted:Minor explanation; Perfect Grade is Bandai's "Not loving Around" scale in gunpla, with 1:60 scale Gundam kits (High Grade is 1:144 and Master Grade is 1:100 scale respectively) I've seen a few places say this kit comes with lights. Wonder how many sprues of greeble it has.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 19:17
|
|
|
wow, kind of nuts to see them retailing it through Amazon. On some other forums I look at everyone is freaking out and doing weird third party pre-orders. The 1/144 kit is great and like a tenth the price.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 19:44
|
|
|
Goddamnit. This is a image of a late variant of the Junkers 290 I've never seen before, OR a expertly made model then further expertly given filters and forced perspective and poo poo
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2017 23:06
|
|
|
I'm watching some youtubes on proper airbrush use and the amount of cleaning and equipment seems insane. A 5 step cleaning regime every time there's a colour change and totally stripping the airbrush down, carefully wiping every surface with special cleaners, and then soaking it in an ultra-sonic cleaner after use every time?? Some videos are saying to take the whole butt off the airbrush and pull the needle out every time to change colours and every 5-10 min or how ever long until it clogs while spraying. What level of care is actually needed for my paasche talon? Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jul 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 00:58
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:I'm watching some youtubes on proper airbrush use and the amount of cleaning and equipment seems insane. A 5 step cleaning regime every time there's a colour change and totally stripping the airbrush down, carefully wiping every surface with special cleaners, and then soaking it in an ultra-sonic cleaner after use every time?? In my experience this is bullshit when using water based acrylics. I clean between colours with 50% vallejo cleaner + 50% distilled water. Flush with pure water from a squirt bottle. If its a metallic or something then i'll go with neat cleaner. At the end of the session, do that, pull the needle for a wipe and re-lube and then replace it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 01:10
|
|
|
So to be more specific: The only paints I'll ever be using in this airbrush are Model Air, Badger's water based primer, and some well thinned golden brand acrylics. I won't be doing any fancy detail work, just spraying paint to cover large areas of a model like a rattle can. I have a brand new Paasche Talon out of the box with only some air spayed through it. What should my next step be? I have no specific lube or cleaner, years ago I just used windex and alcohol with a good flush then wiping the needle down with a cotton pad and some alcohol before putting it away. What should my step by step process be when putting paint in the airbrush (do I need to further thin model air?), what do I need to do between colours (I only care that it spays and doesn't clog for the most part) and what to do when I'm done painting for the day? Here's everything airbrush related I have  This guy's saying windshield washer fluid works fine as an airbrush cleaner http://www.holycrapitslate.com/cheap-airbrush-cleaner/ Other people say to just make your own with water, some iso, and some detergent. People are also saying don't use tap water to clean your airbrush because of mineral stains, I know in some regions when people do the dishes and just let them dry their glass gets covered in cloudy mineral crust or what ever, but where I live the water is super clean and pure and doesn't leave any sort of stains behind when I do the dishes. Does this mean my tap water is safer for running through an airbrush or do I need to shell out for distilled? Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jul 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 01:21
|
|
|
I spray game air without further thinning so it should be the same perfect consistency. Between colours I use Vallejo airbrush cleaner, and an old paintbrush to clean the inside of the bowl. Once that's out, another tiny flush with cleaner and it's on to the next colour. Every now a then I pinch the needle with a cloth to remove any dry tip. I might pull it apart every 3 or 4 uses and clean out inside with more cleaner and the airbrush cleaner brushes but that's it. No oil, no lube, and no sonic cleaners.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 01:39
|
|
|
Between colors you only need to wipe the inside of the cup and flush a bit of thinner through it until it goes clear, and put your new color in. After a days airbrush session, I do like to do a full breakdown. So I remove the back off the airbrush, pull the needle, and remove the cap and nozzle. I put the cap and nozzle in a little medicine cup of airbrush cleaner, take it all to the sink, and put a squirt of two of cleaner down the cup and let it run out the front of the airbrush. Then I turn on the tap and run water through the brush for about ten seconds. Then I use my little cleaning brushes to clean out the airbrush, get in all the little nooks, then do the same with the cap and nozzle. You can actually get a really useful little needle reamer which you can use to really get everything out of the nozzle. Then wipe down the needle. Give everything a final rinse from the tap, and then I dry everything off with some blasts from my other airbrush. Put everything back together, and then a but of lube on the needle and put that back in, and then that's it. It sounds like a lot of steps, but I can do all that in five minutes tops. That Golden product you have isn't the thinner you'll probably want to use most of the time. What you have is "Transparent Extender", which is for making transparent glazes from their standard paints, or to thin out their transparent paints. For your use, you'd want to use their actual "Airbrush Thinner". The Aztek stuff should do the same job, but if you want to use a Golden product then their Airbrush Thinner is the way to go. For airbrush cleaner, I like to use the Medea Airbrush Cleaner. Should be able to find it at any art out there, it's probably the most popular brand. Plus they sell it in about six different sizes, so you can get as much or as little as you need. For lube, I like the Iwata-Medea SuperLube. Comes in a little blue squeeze tube, which is enough to last you for years. Badger's Regdab NeedleJuice is supposed to be really good as well, but I haven't used it myself. THIS is the nozzle reamer I use. Not sure if it's available anywhere in Canadian stores, can't remember where I bought mine. Maple Airbrush should have something similar if you want one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 01:52
|
|
|
 Pretty into the way this tank turned out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
Where is the tank, is it hiding behind the self propelled gun?  Also I think you went a little bit overboard with the mud splatter.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 05:37
|
|
|
Ensign Expendable posted:Where is the tank, is it hiding behind the self propelled gun? I started going a little crazy with my paint brush but I figured it was a particularly wet day out so there was a lot of mud.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 05:39
|
|
|
I dig it, bit those big round drops break the illusion of scale. Can they be cleaned up?
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 07:23
|
|
|
Yeah, remove the large pools if you can. Think about how the mud got there too. I'm assuming you wanted an effect of mud thrown up from the movement of the vehicle. It's hard to see from that angle, but the mud would be thrown up from the treads. The dirtiest parts of the vehicle should be the tracks, and the front armor plate, and the fenders. None of those areas are very dirty it looks like. You can also vary your mud colors to represent multiple applications of mud over time. A lighter colored base for older dried mud, and darker slimier mud on top for more recent mud. Check out the below pic, where the builder used multiple shades of mud, and angled the sprays of mud so they look like the treads splashes it up. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 08:59
|
|
|
Oh, also forgot to mention I found a good deal. If you have a Michaels near you, they sell packs of five Clay Shapers for around $5. They a brush handle with a silicone tip, and they're really cool for modelling work. You can use them to apply pigments when you want a harsh rust streak, or to apply metal pigment powders and buff them to a shine. You can apply thick mud effects with them. Or you can buff paint to get a rubbery sheen to it, instead of trying to mix a clear matte-satin that may not work out exactly how you envisioned it. Tons of uses, and the price is right. Fine arts stores sells them as well, but usually starting around $10 for a single one. They're "Craft Smart" brand, and they're in the aisle with the sculpting clays and tools. They usually carry at least two sizes, to handle small and large models.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 09:15
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:People are also saying don't use tap water to clean your airbrush because of mineral stains, I know in some regions when people do the dishes and just let them dry their glass gets covered in cloudy mineral crust or what ever, but where I live the water is super clean and pure and doesn't leave any sort of stains behind when I do the dishes. Does this mean my tap water is safer for running through an airbrush or do I need to shell out for distilled? I just buy a couple of litres of distilled water from the nearest gas station, it goes a long way and no need to worry about there being some kind of impurity that will all of a sudden cause troubles due to build up or when thinning paint with water.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 13:11
|
|
|
Tentacle Party posted:I dig it, bit those big round drops break the illusion of scale. Can they be cleaned up? Yeah I didn't top coat it yet so I can probably go in there and break it up a bit with some thinner. Bloody Hedgehog posted:Yeah, remove the large pools if you can. Think about how the mud got there too. I'm assuming you wanted an effect of mud thrown up from the movement of the vehicle. It's hard to see from that angle, but the mud would be thrown up from the treads. The dirtiest parts of the vehicle should be the tracks, and the front armor plate, and the fenders. None of those areas are very dirty it looks like. You can also vary your mud colors to represent multiple applications of mud over time. A lighter colored base for older dried mud, and darker slimier mud on top for more recent mud. Thank you for this this will be very helpful. Bloody Hedgehog posted:Oh, also forgot to mention I found a good deal. If you have a Michaels near you, they sell packs of five Clay Shapers for around $5. They a brush handle with a silicone tip, and they're really cool for modelling work. You can use them to apply pigments when you want a harsh rust streak, or to apply metal pigment powders and buff them to a shine. You can apply thick mud effects with them. Or you can buff paint to get a rubbery sheen to it, instead of trying to mix a clear matte-satin that may not work out exactly how you envisioned it. Tons of uses, and the price is right. Fine arts stores sells them as well, but usually starting around $10 for a single one. They're "Craft Smart" brand, and they're in the aisle with the sculpting clays and tools. They usually carry at least two sizes, to handle small and large models. I've actually been looking for something exactly like this.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 13:59
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:Oh, also forgot to mention I found a good deal. If you have a Michaels near you, they sell packs of five Clay Shapers for around $5. They a brush handle with a silicone tip, and they're really cool for modelling work. You can use them to apply pigments when you want a harsh rust streak, or to apply metal pigment powders and buff them to a shine. You can apply thick mud effects with them. Or you can buff paint to get a rubbery sheen to it, instead of trying to mix a clear matte-satin that may not work out exactly how you envisioned it. Tons of uses, and the price is right. Fine arts stores sells them as well, but usually starting around $10 for a single one. They're "Craft Smart" brand, and they're in the aisle with the sculpting clays and tools. They usually carry at least two sizes, to handle small and large models.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 14:25
|
|
|
I got a set of those on eBay for about £4
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 14:27
|
|
|
Jutter, I'm going to second what everyone else here said about the cleaning. I have that exact airbrush and generally will just wipe the bowl and run some straight isopropyl alcohol between colors, I'll generally do a full strip once I'm finished for the day. Also, I'm in the home stretch of my Tiger 1 and should be finished with tow cables and such tonight; pics later. NOW, I can either work on my BSG Viper OR a Tamiya F4U in 1/48 OR a Hasegawa Oscar in 1/32. Decisions...
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 16:36
|
|
|
I want to get a Sturmovik in 1/32nd, so do that and post steps. I want to gauge the amount of effort required.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 16:39
|
|
|
EdsTeioh posted:Jutter, I'm going to second what everyone else here said about the cleaning. I have that exact airbrush and generally will just wipe the bowl and run some straight isopropyl alcohol between colors, I'll generally do a full strip once I'm finished for the day. What does your full strip entail? When I watch full strip videos they're like dissembling the air hose connection and components that don't get anywhere near paint. I imagine it's just "take the needle out, give it a wipe, take the nozzle out, give it a quick soak and scrub the inside with a q-tip" more or less?
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:What does your full strip entail? When I watch full strip videos they're like dissembling the air hose connection and components that don't get anywhere near paint. I imagine it's just "take the needle out, give it a wipe, take the nozzle out, give it a quick soak and scrub the inside with a q-tip" more or less? My personal full strip? I take apart all of the pieces that touch paint and don't mess with the air hose connector. I soak the nozzle, shroud, and needle in alcohol (or Aztek airbrush cleaner depending on what kind of paint I used.) I take the body and rinse it in the sink and use a piece of pipe cleaner to scrub out the inside. I looted that pipe cleaner from my kids' arts/craft box, but I do know that Harbor Freight has nylon airbrush cleaning brushes for like $2 and really need to grab one. I'll let the soaking pieces soak for a few hours, and leave all of the rest of the pieces on my cut mat until that's done. I STILL run into my nozzle clogging fairly often, and I'm not sure if that's a thing unique to Paasche or if I don't thin my paints enough or what.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 17:11
|
|
|
For me, I ream the nozzle, wipe down the needle, rinse and then brush out the body. Doesn't take very long at all. Between paints, I only run cleaner until it comes out clear. Ensign Expendable fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jul 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 18:40
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:...aaand of course it's America-only. I'm Canadian, and they had them in one of their stores here. They don't have online shopping for Canada yet, but they definitely carry them up here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 20:13
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:...aaand of course it's America-only. If you don't need them right away, AliExpress has you covered: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot...2724550462.html
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 22:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 17:50 |
|
|
Hopefully Ali can send them in a decent time, aka before the next millennium. Before I found the ones in Michaels, I ordered some from a reseller on Amazon. Who promptly shut their account down after stiffing everyone who ordered from them. Stupid sellers in China.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2017 22:46
|
|