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Darchangel posted:R-152 Holy. poo poo. I'm absolutely going to try this and report back. Thanks!
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Jul 14, 2017 00:25
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H2SO4 posted:Holy. poo poo. Definitely the way to go in older R12 systems. Friend of mine had converted his e30 and XJ (I think? that one might be late enough to be 134 actually) without any trouble. Just make sure you use the right oil. Works good!
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Jul 14, 2017 04:03
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Raluek posted:Definitely the way to go in older R12 systems. Friend of mine had converted his e30 and XJ (I think? that one might be late enough to be 134 actually) without any trouble. Just make sure you use the right oil. Works good! I know, right? My XJ was one of the R-134 ones, but 152 is cheaper, available almost literally everywhere, and it works so much better than 134. It was (and is, for my friend who bought it) awesomely chilly even here in Texas.
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Jul 14, 2017 16:44
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rdb posted:You can relax. That generation of 5.4 2v is known for spark plugs ejecting on their own and the holes stripping out. Its the 5.4l 3v thats known for the plugs that break off. lol Before you change the plugs, just make sure you have a bunch of extra extensions and universals. And then procure extra universals and extensions just to be sure. And a magnetic pickup tool. Band-aids and a first aid kit. A bottle or two of booze. Also make sure you blow out spark plug holes before removing. Read up on not over-torquing plugs for this engine. I think that will get you by. edit: forgot to add, dielectric grease. The last thing you want is for a boot to get stuck on a plug in that engine. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 17:17
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:lol BRB, going to go change the plugs on my 5.3L Silverado. 
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Jul 14, 2017 17:44
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Colostomy Bag posted:Before you change the plugs, just make sure you have a bunch of extra extensions and universals. Is it a pretty much guaranty that you'll run into problems with plugs and that engine? I hear about it all the time, but no personal experience. I read similar warnings and tales of despair regarding the glow plugs on my LMM Duramax. I killed two while moving from AK to NC and another one recently reached it's end of life. So I planned a weekend to remove those first two in case something went wrong, and they just threaded right out with no drama. Other dudes on the GM forums broke them off in the head and all kinds of other lunacy.
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Jul 14, 2017 18:00
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Colostomy Bag posted:lol JFC, you make that sound worse than an '90s Camaro, or my H6 Outback. Larrymer posted:BRB, going to go change the plugs on my 5.3L Silverado.  For content, I pulled my Outback's EZ30 out last night. First time ever pulling an engine, and I wish I had bought the two-ton HF special. At max extension the one-ton was just a hair too short and the pump was right up on the bumper. Today, I need to clean my garage and start stripping the motor down. Only 20,000 cap screws stand between me and the machine shop.
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Jul 14, 2017 18:01
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Boys who love boys
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Is it a pretty much guaranty that you'll run into problems with plugs and that engine? I hear about it all the time, but no personal experience. They are easy enough to fix. When I met my wife she had an 03 F150 that had two repairs done using the dorman kit. Worked fine. As for a guarantee? I think someone here has one with 300k+ on it thats been fine. I too remember the duramax glow plug drama. I nearly poo poo myself when my LBZ threw a code for #7. But it turned out to be a 5 minute no sweat job. I think people who broke them must have confused tighten with loosen and not want to admit it. The water pump was a far worse experience. E: I think the 5.4 cam phaser issues are the real thing to watch out for. People tend to ignore it until they fail completely and the engine lunches itself. The spark plugs are an easy fix with the right aftermarket tools. rdb fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 18:19
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rdb posted:the dorman kit. Worked fine. I've seen that kit, and it has good reviews. Lol@duramax guys righty-tighty.
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Jul 14, 2017 19:29
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Now that I was able to get the AW11 to fit in the toy hauler, we're going to use it as our runabout down on the SC coast as we look for houses. It's F'in hot down there, and this car hasn't had working A/C since I bought it (which I haven't really needed in the mountains of western NC). Today I'm tackling it.  The compressor isn't bound up, the wiring appears to ring out okay, and the lines seem to be all present and accounted for. Best case scenario I can throw a can of 134 at it (it was converted in '03) and a belt and be on my way.
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Jul 14, 2017 19:37
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Probably want to throw a drier at it and evac the system to make sure there's no other leaks in the system.
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Jul 14, 2017 20:58
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Is it a pretty much guaranty that you'll run into problems with plugs and that engine? I hear about it all the time, but no personal experience. Nah on the 2V you aren't going to be breaking plugs removing them. Just the access to the back few can be a pita, and if a CoP boot fuses to the plug that ain't fun. Just a lot of monkeying around getting the right angle with the different extensions and universals, being very careful with re-installation due to plug blow out problem. Fortunately you are doing this on an F150 and not an Expedition with rear air. Do #1 (front passenger) first to give you an idea on how the plugs are angled backwards to give you a better feel. Then do #4 and once that is out of the way you get to feel good about yourself because the tough one is done.
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Jul 14, 2017 22:04
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Larrymer posted:Probably want to throw a drier at it and evac the system to make sure there's no other leaks in the system. Thanks, I put a new drier in. System took a bottle of refrigerant, idle upspeed works as it should, but the PO had disconnected the compressor clutch wire. I can't find where it's supposed to run to. Clutch works on the compressor when I jump it to +12VDC, and importantly, it blows fairly cold. I'm looking up where I should be able to find the other end of the plug for the clutch, then I'm going to go get another bottle of 134 to throw at it. edit: found it. Hooked it up, all systems go - aside from not much system pressure. I'm going to run and get another can of cold and see where that gets me. It's blowing 51* air in my 74* garage though. Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 22:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Nah on the 2V you aren't going to be breaking plugs removing them. Just the access to the back few can be a pita, and if a CoP boot fuses to the plug that ain't fun. Just a lot of monkeying around getting the right angle with the different extensions and universals, being very careful with re-installation due to plug blow out problem. Fortunately you are doing this on an F150 and not an Expedition with rear air. My dad hated doing the plugs on my mom's Expedition because of that rear air versus spark plug access.
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Jul 15, 2017 00:16
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Thanks, I put a new drier in. System took a bottle of refrigerant, idle upspeed works as it should, but the PO had disconnected the compressor clutch wire. I can't find where it's supposed to run to. Clutch works on the compressor when I jump it to +12VDC, and importantly, it blows fairly cold. I'm looking up where I should be able to find the other end of the plug for the clutch, then I'm going to go get another bottle of 134 to throw at it. Did you pull vacuum on the system? If not, you've got a buttload of air and moisture in there reducing your efficacy.
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Jul 15, 2017 00:17
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 New evap purge solenoid. Car's been throwing P0696 ("EVAP flow during non-purge condition") for several months, and recently started flooding every time I put gas in it. $22 for a brand new OEM purge solenoid on Amazon; Wells and Airtex were somehow more expensive than OEM (not by much, but still).  Weird thing is if I ordered by the p/n printed on the solenoid (AC Delco 12597567), it was $30, but if I used an alternate p/n I found on Rockauto (AC Delco 2141680), it was $22 (and it was the exact same part, with the original p/n printed on it). Just filled it up and it didn't flood, so I'm gonna call it fixed. Seems to have cured my wandering idle too.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 00:56
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Larrymer posted:BRB, going to go change the plugs on my 5.3L Silverado. Have fun pulling the heat shields around the plugs if the boots have fused to the plugs. And use a long rear end loving extension on cylinder 8 to make it easy, because gently caress the guy who put that bitch angled into the firewall. 
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Jul 15, 2017 01:01
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Darchangel posted:Did you pull vacuum on the system? If not, you've got a buttload of air and moisture in there reducing your efficacy. I didn't. This ended up being more of a functional check of all the components of the system. I need to crack the lines now anyways - BECAUSE - 20 minutes after getting nice cold air on a test loop around town, I started making smoke on the way back to the house. I popped the hood on the side of the road with my fire extinguisher in hand, but it looked like the compressor was heating up from use and just cooking all the oil gunk all over it. Then I lost a/c about a mile from the house, and the sound changed. Pulled into the driveway and - oh poo poo I'm on fire. I jumped out and threw open the hood with the engine still running and the mag clutch on the compressor was smoking and shooting sparks out. I turned off the A/C and everything was fine. So the compressor seized. I really want a/c in this car, so I'll source a compressor and throw it in, now that I know the rest of the system and interlocks work.
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Jul 15, 2017 01:45
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Darchangel posted:R-152 (air dusters) are your friend. When you swapped to R-152, did you remove/drain/etc the compressor as well or just swap the filter dryer primed with ester oil? It sounds like he is saying that just swapping the filter dryer should be good enough but also talks about servicing the compressor on a bench as well.
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Jul 15, 2017 02:51
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Then I lost a/c about a mile from the house, and the sound changed. Pulled into the driveway and - oh poo poo I'm on fire. I jumped out and threw open the hood with the engine still running and the mag clutch on the compressor was smoking and shooting sparks out. I turned off the A/C and everything was fine. So the compressor seized. I really want a/c in this car, so I'll source a compressor and throw it in, now that I know the rest of the system and interlocks work. You're going to need to flush the hell out of the system, there's probably metal shavings in it now. Depending on the condenser design, you may need to replace it as well, plus the receiver/dryer, and the orifice tube (or txv if it uses that instead). Also, for future reference, don't pull the seals on the new receiver/dryer until you're about to install it and pull a vacuum. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 02:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You're going to need to flush the hell out of the system, there's probably metal shavings in it now. Depending on the condenser design, you may need to replace it as well, plus the receiver/dryer, and the orifice tube (or txv if it uses that instead). I'm expecting black death, we'll see.
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Jul 15, 2017 03:31
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On the 240SX: I unfucked the subframe stud with the help of a 12mmx1.5 die. Discovered I have the wrong loving flywheel, which is why none of the goddamn clutches will work. Ordered a lightweight flywheel. Ordered a clutch line adapter so I can use the SS hydraulic line I already have.
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Jul 16, 2017 05:39
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I replaced a leaking seal on the MS6 transmission and since I had the fucker in the air I installed a Corksport rear motor mount that I bought three years ago.
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Jul 16, 2017 06:07
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Darchangel posted:My dad hated doing the plugs on my mom's Expedition because of that rear air versus spark plug access. Yeah, it's not fun. I'm sure if I talk about it will fail tomorrow so I'm knocking on some wood. Given the F-150 and Expedition are drat near identical in many ways, I chuckle at some of the differences. Rear air and plug access is one of them. I found that unbolting the main body fuse block from the firewall allowed at least another way in for your left arm to help things a long. Also great the hose clamp leaks directly on the CoP taking it out prematurely. Thanks Ford. Funny thing is it has been the best vehicle we have ever owned.
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Jul 16, 2017 22:11
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The PO of my mercedes had it converted from r12 to r134a, it was absolute garbage. Between the undersized non-parallel flow condenser and R4 compressor, I just drove with the windows down. Also they didn't do it correctly and the compressor sounded like it had rod knock... I dunno. Anyway, I flushed the system, filled it with PAG oil and converted it to r152a. Idling in my little garage it was probably 90 degrees, the thing was blowing 36 degrees out of the vents. It's cold enough to make me uncomfortable on a hot day. My subaru also needed AC love, it's a factory r134a system, but I had the duster and I'm cheap so I flushed and converted that, too. It works amazingly, highly recommended. In more exciting news, my mercedes tried to klil me by dropping the hood on my head while I was changing the oil today. The spring mounts have been broken since I bought the car, the pockets fill with leaves and rust them off. This made me mad enough I finally fixed the problem. I welded cut-in-half links of chain where the spring mounts belong, and it works pretty well. Really annoyingly tight space to work, but totally worth the effort.  Next I need to replace the hood pad. EDIT: loving HELL i HATE PHOTOBUCKET (fixing with imgur) chrisgt fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jul 16, 2017 |
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Jul 16, 2017 22:46
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chrisgt posted:
Yeah, they really hosed over a lot of posts spread across 10,000 forums.
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Jul 16, 2017 22:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, they really hosed over a lot of posts spread across 10,000 forums. yea what the gently caress, they want something like $60/year to fix the problem LOOOL
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Jul 16, 2017 23:03
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Changed the oil in the mustamg and finally installed the steeda jacking rails I bought a while ago.
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Jul 17, 2017 04:53
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Rhyno posted:I replaced a leaking seal on the MS6 transmission and since I had the fucker in the air I installed a Corksport rear motor mount that I bought three years ago. Forgot that I broker mt 1/4" HF torque wrench while doing this. Sheared that fucker right off.
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Jul 17, 2017 06:10
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Not today but on Friday I replaced the tailshaft after it was rebuilt and re-balanced and now it chatters above 50kph. Its this super annoying vibration that sets my teeth on edge. The driveline shop says this doesn't sound like a balancing issue because "those only show up above 80kph" which I'm not sure is a legit thing that happens. Still it's going for another balance tomorrow. I just spent a small fortune getting the gearbox built up and the car seems determined to present every little problem it can so that I cannot enjoy it.
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Jul 17, 2017 07:02
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tobu posted:Not today but on Friday I replaced the tailshaft after it was rebuilt and re-balanced and now it chatters above 50kph. Its this super annoying vibration that sets my teeth on edge. The driveline shop says this doesn't sound like a balancing issue because "those only show up above 80kph" which I'm not sure is a legit thing that happens. Still it's going for another balance tomorrow. I pulled the driveshaft off my VE Commodore and had Hardy Spicer replace the centre bearing and balance the driveshaft, and after I reinstalled it with new couplers, it vibrated horribly at 100km/h. Spent 6 months trying to figure out why, and finally gave up and took the car to a driveline shop a week before I had to drive it from Melbourne to Perth. Turns out Hardy Spicer welded the two halves of the driveshaft 5˚ off-centre... The driveline shop told me there was no way it was ever balanced because it almost flew off the machine as soon as they tested it. Bass Ackwards fucked around with this message at 15:25 on Jul 17, 2017 |
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Jul 17, 2017 15:20
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fps_bill posted:finally installed the steeda jacking rails I bought a while ago. Those things are great.
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Jul 17, 2017 15:29
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metaxus posted:Turns out Hardy Spicer welded the two halves of the driveshaft 5˚ off-centre... The driveline shop told me there was no way it was ever balanced because it almost flew off the machine as soon as they tested it. This is the sort of thing I'm worried about. I'm no expert but the size of the weights they've put on during the previous balance look to be massive so I'm worried that they couldn't get it to balance after rebuilding it and just hoped I wouldn't put up a stink. It's at a different driveline shop today.
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Jul 18, 2017 00:04
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H2SO4 posted:When you swapped to R-152, did you remove/drain/etc the compressor as well or just swap the filter dryer primed with ester oil? It sounds like he is saying that just swapping the filter dryer should be good enough but also talks about servicing the compressor on a bench as well. New dryer (which is an exercise in itself - every parts house has the part numbers reversed on the Series 5 RX-7s with respect to dealer installed AC versus factory-installed) and the amount of ester oil required for that change. I think that's all I did. It's been a while - I may have drained the compressor while I was in there. I've also replaced a hard line since. An unmounted aftermarket cone air filter put in by the PO rubbed a weak spot on the line, which finally burst. My car had previously been converted to R-134a, and likely had ester oil in it. chrisgt posted:yea what the gently caress, they want something like $60/year to fix the problem LOOOL Try $400, though I read somewhere that it will actually work at the $60 level if you are clever. So the stupid with my squeaking belt drive on my Crown Vic continues. Bought a pair of NTN 6303LU bearings from eBay. They arrived yesterday. Only the seller apparently does not have good eyesight. they are NTN 6203 bearings, which are 7mm smaller on the OD. Zooming the hell out of the picture on the auction I can actually see 6203 on the bearing, but you have to look close. NTN marked them on the rubber seal, and its small with a font that is a bit ambiguous. Oddly enough, 6203s are what the idler and tensioner pulleys use. Ordered a Toyo 6303-2RS bearing from eBay. Hopefully it'll be right, since my CV is now useless unless I want to put the (presumably) squeaking bearing back in the alternator. That said, it wasn't terribly difficult to get out. Old bearing:  Bearing received (on top of old bearing):  Yeeeeeaaaah. i emailed the seller to let him know he's going to get some unhappy buyers if he doesn't change the listing.
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Jul 18, 2017 16:49
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Did you buy based on application or did you buy based on size? Bearings like that usually have a model number on them that actually integrates the size into the number so you should be able to find the same "model" across brands. Looks like that one is actually 6303RDH. All 6303s should be the same size. Edit: 6303 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-Bearing-17x47x14-Rubber-Sealed/dp/B005LOHVNY Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 17:38
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Did you buy based on application or did you buy based on size? Bearings like that usually have a model number on them that actually integrates the size into the number so you should be able to find the same "model" across brands. Looks like that one is actually 6303RDH. All 6303s should be the same size. Yeah, I understand how standard bearing part numbers work. I bought based on what several alternator parts sites and forum posts said the bearing was supposed to be. The eBay listing specifically said "NTN 6303LU" which would be the correct sealed version of the 6303 bearing. The seller just made an error reading the part number on the unboxed bearings. I actually couldn't find info on the 6303RDH part number on the existing bearing. Toyo 6303-2RS appears to be the current part number for the sealed version. There's also a C3 version with looser internal tolerances available. I would also have accepted SKF and other name-brand bearings. I could have paid less, but $10 shipped for a name-brand bearing is fine. The listing I originally bought from was the cheapest name brand ($7 for two bearings) in a general "6303 bearing" search. would have been a fantastic deal if they'd actually been 6303s. Still a good deal if you need 6203s. The WBD you linked was considered to be the budget alternative to the NTN on alternatorparts.com: http://store.alternatorparts.com/6g-bearings.aspx Probably fine. edit: seller pulled the listing "due to errors in the listing" and thanked me for the heads up, which I appreciate. i'm not angry or anything - it's just frustrating that I can't seem to get rid of this squeak. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 23:50
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Darchangel posted:Yeah, I understand how standard bearing part numbers work. I bought based on what several alternator parts sites and forum posts said the bearing was supposed to be. The eBay listing specifically said "NTN 6303LU" which would be the correct sealed version of the 6303 bearing. The seller just made an error reading the part number on the unboxed bearings. Well that sucks. That WBD was just the first example I found on Amazon for the size. I was looking for that "RDH" number yesterday too and couldn't really find anything. Makes sense if they changed the part number. Superior German bearings for 13 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/FAG-6303-2RS...ds=6303+bearing
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Jul 19, 2017 13:41
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Well that sucks. That WBD was just the first example I found on Amazon for the size. I was looking for that "RDH" number yesterday too and couldn't really find anything. Makes sense if they changed the part number. Hur-hur. FAG. That's a pretty good price. Seems like the only ones on Prime were either no-names, or pricey, though. Fortunately, I can just drive my RX-7 'til the bearing comes in. thank god I recharged the AC last weekend. I should throw some glass bead in my media blaster and clean up the alternator housing while it's apart. 
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Jul 19, 2017 16:39
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I fixed a clunk in the rear end of the BMW that has been driving me wild since I bought it 5 years ago This is the rear differential. On the front side of this is a mounting bushing to the subframe. This bolt kept backing out and allowing the diff to pivot and smack the bottom of the car. I got creative and scoured realoem to find the same bolt but 20 mm longer and then I put that in place along with a nut and loctite and then tightened everything down. It not only solved the main clunk noise but about 4 other ones as well. The car feels pretty nice now. 
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Jul 20, 2017 01:39
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#brazzers
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Jul 21, 2017 01:36
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