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Mongolian Queef posted:If you don't need them right away, AliExpress has you covered:
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Jul 22, 2017 01:06
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Pierzak posted:What does "not right away" mean? I haven't used AliX ever. If it gets to Poland within 2 months, I'm ok with it. Most items from AliX ship from China. So it might arrive on your doorstep tomorrow, or 4 months from now.
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Jul 22, 2017 01:23
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Paint flow inconsistency is usually caused by some sort of nozzle or needle problem right? If I slightly pull the trigger back a short distance, I get no paint flow. If I hold it at that position long enough, or continue pulling back, I'll get a burst of paint with some spatter. After that burst I can push the trigger forward a bit, back to the original position with consistent paint flow. That burst and spatter is a recent development. I was using Mr Surfacer 1500 mixed with Leveling thinner at 15 PSI. I disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the airbrush and tested it with distilled water, at 15-25 PSI. The problem persisted. No bubbles in the cup, no visible problem with the needle or nozzle. I'm gonna go buy a nozzle reamer and soak the nozzle in some lacquer thinner, but I was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions or if there was anything I missed. I'm using a Creos PS-289, which is kinda similar to an Iwata HP-C/H. Symetrique fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Jul 22, 2017 |
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Jul 22, 2017 05:07
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That sounds exactly like a clogged nozzle to me.
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Jul 22, 2017 05:11
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Could also be that your mix is too thick. Does it spray lacquer thinner without any problems? If so, thin your paints more or try bumping the air pressure up to 20-25 PSI.
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Jul 22, 2017 05:30
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SkunkDuster posted:Could also be that your mix is too thick. Does it spray lacquer thinner without any problems? If so, thin your paints more or try bumping the air pressure up to 20-25 PSI. yeah i was gonna say. 1500 and Mr Levelling Thinner is my go to. I thin it 1:1 if not a little more on the thinner side and its always gone down great with a 289. You do have to really clean it after use. Acrylics are generally harder to manage with tip dry and clogs I've found. I was running into all kinds of problems last night before i realised I was using an acrylic mr hobby instead of a laquer one.
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Jul 22, 2017 10:11
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My main way to combat tip-dry is to keep a small bit of tissue wetted down with thinner at hand. I don't even wait for tip-dry to show up though; any time I stop spraying for more than about ten seconds, before I start up again I use the tissue to give the tip a quick pinch. Gets any paint already there, and the thinner helps keep the action smooth and combats any paint drying just inside the nozzle.
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Jul 22, 2017 12:00
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I found that not circumcising your nozzle is the first step to avoid dry tip.
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Jul 22, 2017 12:45
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Pierzak posted:What does "not right away" mean? I haven't used AliX ever. If it gets to Poland within 2 months, I'm ok with it. It should be fine. I live in Sweden and stuff I order usually takes about 5 weeks to show up. The best way to use AliExpress is to order things that you don't need "right now". There's a lot of useful stuff for modellers, empty dropper bottles, sanding pads, airbrush hoses.
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Jul 22, 2017 13:06
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Been pretty busy with the Soleil Royal lately and have been able to add a whole bunch of stuff   
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Jul 23, 2017 23:51
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Went with a 1/48 Panzer 38t for my first one My Nazi painting skills are sorely lacking. My next one is going to be a Tamiya M41 Walker Bulldog in 1/35, it's cheap and it comes with 3 dudes so I can practice painting men.
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Jul 24, 2017 00:11
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I am very bad at airbrushing. I put the paint on too thick and the air pressure blew it into little "paint dunes" or what ever. I handed it before it was 100% dry and left finger prints. I blow dried it but some dust dried on it. This was only my primer, so I put some thinner on a brush to smooth/clean things up which sort of worked. Then I put the real layer of paint on, and did pretty much the same thing  Am I just being impatient? Thinner coats, more dry time between coats? Have a hard time seeing where I'm painting because I'm priming light gray plastic with white primer then light light light blue paint, have to go by sheen.
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Jul 24, 2017 03:41
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Yeah, TBH it sounds like patience is the exact problem you're having. If you aren't able to spot the colour too well consider setting up a light so that it reflects off the sheen more usefully for you as you spray. Might help.
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Jul 24, 2017 03:59
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I've primed things in the wrong color before to avoid problems like that. Doesn't need to be too dramatic, or even a complete coat: just enough to contrast with the color you actually want. If you still have issues after that then you might play with how much you apply, how much you thin your paint, or the pressure setting of your compressor. I realize that's not all that helpful. Pictures of the problem might allow for a more useful diagnosis. Also, don't underestimate the value of good lighting. People will sometimes fill a house with warm colored bulbs. This makes painting way harder than it needs to be. The closer to sunlight the better, in color and brightness. 
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Jul 24, 2017 04:10
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My train room had a bunch of big ridiculous LED shop lights. I've watched some more airbrush tutorials and yeah, I just need practice. I was holding the brush way too close and firing at full throttle, which I found I can limit which the thingy on back. My first attempts have already gone back into the alcohol bath to be re-stripped. I should probably work not on the dirty floor if I don't want dust and poo poo all over it too! Oh hey I noticed water bubbling out of my air hose, shouldn't this water trap thing on my compressor be taking care of that? Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 04:29
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I painted a truck "light light blue" and another truck dark blue  The dark blue one turned out really nice, looks nicer than in the photo. What's odd is that an hour later and after blow drying the light one is still slightly tacky and attracting dust and prints. Both are Vallejo paints, well shaken.
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Jul 24, 2017 06:14
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Baronjutter posted:... I've had something like that happen when I failed to wash parts, presumably due to mold release agent preventing adhesion. I also had it happen with thoroughly washed parts, which I attributed to voodoo curses and evil pixies.
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Jul 24, 2017 06:21
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Both were just stripped to bare plastic and scrubbed clean with 99% iso so i don't know what could be causing it
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Jul 24, 2017 06:32
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I had this happen over the weekend with Golden Fluid Acrylics, which usually behave very well. Paint was still sticky enough a few hours after application that it came right off when I applied masking putty. Thank god for camouflage!
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Jul 24, 2017 15:43
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I gave it a spray with a gloss sealer hoping that might help. I've certainly had lovely poorly shaken rattle cans dry tacky, but I've never in my life seen an acrylic paint do this. Acrylic is all about drying quickly and fully.
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Jul 24, 2017 16:28
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Man, decals fuckin' defy me. I feel like I've gotten worse with them over the last 4 years that I've been back into this. Every 1/32 aircraft I've done, I've had nothing but problems with the decals. Silvering mostly. I've really tried to get my clear gloss airbrush routine down well so that I get a nice smooth finish, but no dice. I've tried future, aqua and lacquer gloss from Alclad, and Vallejo's clear gloss. The finish looks smooth, but maybe not, I guess. I'm working on Tamiya's 1/32 Corsair right now and I can see a ton of air pockets under the left side fuselage insignia (thankfully, just about all I've put on so far). Microsol/set don't seem to make any difference. I've poked a hole in the insignia with my x-acto and tried to squeeze out the air bubbles after softening it with microset again, but to no avail. It's really disheartening when the decal sheet is so goddamn big. I've got a lot of work ahead of me and I'm sure the rest will give me trouble too. [/vent]
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Jul 24, 2017 20:42
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Decals are hard, and I'm still hit or miss with them but have gotten steadily better and less scared of them over time. My general workflow is: -make sure the target area is nice a smooth and glossy and clean. -Put a tiny tiny bit of water on the target area, basically just rub it with a wet finger -dip the decal in water for about 5 seconds then take it out and start to work it off the backing, once it start to slip free it's ready to apply (I find if I leave it in the water until its ready to slide, it's too wet??) -slide the decal into place, the surface being slightly wet gives you more drying time to get the decal just right. I use q-tips to get everything nice and flat, always rolling, never sliding, roll the bubbles out. -Use the flat of a blade or what ever tools feel right to work the decal around sharper edges/grooves while using a q-tip to hold the other side steady (so you don't undo your previous work) -If the surface isn't too bumpy this might be enough, so I put on a little solvset and q-tip it some more as wrinkles can form from the solvset -hit it with a blow drier on low while carefully observing -dullcote or what ever Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 20:53
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Gewehr 43 posted:I've poked a hole in the insignia with my x-acto and tried to squeeze out the air bubbles after softening it with microset again, but to no avail. Did you mean to type Microsol there? Also, are you putting Microset on the model before applying the decal? I've since switched to Mr. Color Mark Setter and Mark Softer (mainly because they come with brushes attached to the caps) but the process is the same - apply microset to the model, apply the decal. If there are air bubbles, wait until it dries (so it doesn't move), then poke tiny holes and slather on the microsol.
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Jul 24, 2017 22:13
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Baronjutter posted:I gave it a spray with a gloss sealer hoping that might help. Did you use any of that Transparent Extender? Too much of that can really mess with paint dry times. I used a bit too much on one project, and the paint never dried. Luckily it was in a spot that was covered up, but no matter how much I blow-dried it and then just straight up rubbed the stickiness away, a few hours later it would be tacky again. I've had enough issues with the Transparent Extender at this point I'm probably just going to throw my bottle away, and stick completely with their Airbrush Medium. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 00:09
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Did you use any of that Transparent Extender? Too much of that can really mess with paint dry times. I used the model air straight from the bottle. The only thing I can think of is the 99% iso bath I gave everything might have left some residue behind, I should have given them a soap and water wash after the iso. The alchohol on its own is obviously clean, but the tub probably had some other poo poo in it from stripping the paint off other poo poo.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:11
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Hmm, hard to say then. There are a thousand reasons paint might not dry, and it can be tough trying to nail down the exact cause. I had issues a while back that I thought were paint based, but it turned out the resin on a statue in one spot wasn't fully cured. It was still hard so you couldn't tell just by looking at it, but if you scraped at it it came away much easier than the fully-cured stuff. That off-gassed enough that it stopped the paint from drying in random spots. Ohhhhhh this hobby. I love it, but sometimes I hate it.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:15
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So 99% iso is fantastic for stripping paint. I dunk a model in there for a few min and the entire layer of paint just falls off like a snake shedding its skin, a little tooth brush action finished it up. The only problem is a lot of things don't use paint, they use ink, stamped ink. So I can get the paint off perfectly, but all the lettering/logos and such stay on. Reading up on it it's nearly impossible to take off easily and people recommend just careful sanding I bought a bunch of cheap box-cars to strip and re-paint and letter, but it's looking like a lot more trouble than it's worth. If I had known though this is a fantastic weathering tool. A little bit of the iso and some gentle scrubbing makes the paint look all weathered and stripped. Really depends on the shell colour but most seem to have a pretty-close colour plastic under it. Like this green box car I stripped had a slightly lighted faded green plastic under it.
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Jul 25, 2017 01:14
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If you want some faded, chipped up boxcars, welcome to The Hairspray Technique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMx_z6kSaog
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Jul 25, 2017 02:07
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I've had curing problems when using Alclad gloss clearcoat mixed with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Even after a couple months at 55% humidity, it was still slightly tacky. I ended up sticking it outside for a couple of hot sunny days thinking maybe the heat and UV might cure it, which it did. Mr. Color Leveling thinnner is great stuff for Mr. Color stuff, but it doesn't work well with Alclad and does not work at all with Tamiya lacquer(?) based acrylic paints.
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Jul 25, 2017 02:19
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What issues did you have with the leveling thinner and Tamiya? I've used that combo quite a bit with no problems. Tamiya even mentions on their site that lacquer thinners are compatible with their paints.
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Jul 25, 2017 02:28
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What issues did you have with the leveling thinner and Tamiya? I've used that combo quite a bit with no problems. Tamiya even mentions on their site that lacquer thinners are compatible with their paints. Now you've got me second guessing myself. It coagulated when I tried it, but it could have been one of the two reacting to the cheap disposable plastic picnic plate I was using as a paint tray. I use them all the time for superglue, epoxy, and acrylics, but I think that is the only time I used one with lacquers.
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Jul 25, 2017 02:41
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Tamiya with leveling thinner is a really popular combination. It must have been the plates.
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Jul 25, 2017 03:29
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Was it also the color White? White is the one color where are a lot of the rules don't apply. It's the most opaque color, and the most pigment-rich. An entire range of paints could be thinned with alcohol, but white will clump up. White also dries the fastest, and is most likely to clog up an airbrush. Lacquer thinners can work with a ton of paints, but will often go sideways when used with white. Even thinning an artist acrylic with same-brand thinner, I'll often have to use three times as much thinner on pure white as I do other colors. But yeah, in your case it was probably the plate. Lacquer thinner will eat right through a lot of cheap plastics and styrofoams, and that'll foul your paint right quick. I use a cheap metal palette from the art store, but I cover it with tinfoil for each use, so I can just toss the foil afterwords so there's no cleanup.
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Jul 25, 2017 03:35
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So I now remembering when I got this order of paints, this light blue that I'm having trouble with had its inner cap not quite seated right and some paint had leaked out. Could it have "gone off" some how because of this? But the other colours I've sprayed have turned out slightly similar, a very satin finish that even a full day later on a very thin coat seems to attract every possible bit of lint or hairs which still seem to stick and need to be really worked off. I've been using cheap dollar store paints all my life and never really had problems like this, you paint, they dry fast, they're ready for handling pretty soon. They never remain sticky and dry to a medium sort of semi-gloss or matte, but never with this dust-attracting and trapping surface quality. Is this just something with vallejo paints? At the moment I'm mostly painting vehicles, so I actually want a nice smooth gloss coat. Is there another paint I should be trying? With my old old airbrush that died years ago I actually got as far as airbrushing a whole locomotive and never had problems like this. For instance, here's the loco I painted and I think it turned out great other than putting the loving nose stripes on the wrong way.   And I used my old airbrush to give the very bright plastic-red a nice fade and weathering  So clearly I at some point in my life was able to get results from an airbrush, yet at the moment I feel like I'm starting from scratch.
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Jul 25, 2017 05:49
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So the airbrush is pretty ok at getting the inside edges of cut openings, but it's absolutely useless at getting between the bricks. Any idea on how to get the wall 100% primed/white? I want to barely be able to tell those bricks are there because it's so evenly white. Do I need to thin the primer more? Honestly I could have brush-painted this faster, but I'll have to see how it handles something like an apartment building with a million window edges. I wish I could laser the CMU's more shallow, but this is it cutting at absolute minimum power and maximum speed. If I could make the gaps between the blocks not so deep I'd probably have an easier time painting it and I wouldn't have the problem where whole blocks fall off the wall due to the ply in the cardboard coming apart.
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Jul 26, 2017 06:23
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Thanks for the clear coat advice a couple pages back, I tried some Testors on a largish game miniature and it worked like it needed to. Now I'm working on a De Havilland Mosquito FB. Added some detail to the cockpit by painting the radio equipment and bending some thin copper wire from radio to radio.  
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Jul 26, 2017 09:24
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So I soaked my nozzle in lacquer thinner, reamed it out, and inspected it with a magnifying glass. I'm still getting a delayed paint flow, no matter how much I thin the paint. Is it possible that a very slightly flared nozzle could also be causing this? I'm not sure if I'm just going crazy and seeing a very slight bend in the nozzle after staring at it too long. The needle also looks like it sticks out just a slightly bit more than when it was new.
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Jul 27, 2017 07:31
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A flared nozzle shouldn't cause any paint flow issues, but the nozzle shouldn't be flared to begin with. You might need to replace the nozzle assembly. Did you try running pure water through the brush? If you can't spray pure water through the brush without issues, then you know it's definitely the brush at fault. What about if you just shoot air? Do you get any stuttering or hesitation in the air flow? You could also try adding a minuscule amount of retarder to your paint mix to see if that stops any tip-dry that could be blocking flow.
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Jul 27, 2017 09:59
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Every time I use my brush I do the following when I put it away: -Run my cleaner through the brush on high pressure a couple extra times, pulling the needle in and out and generally jiggling things. -Take the little outer cap off the end and give it a little wipe but it's generally always clean anyways. -Pull the needle out, give it a nice wipe down. -Pour a little extra cleaner in, then insert the needle and push it in and out and spin it, each time forcing out a drop of cleaner which I inspect to make sure is not milky with paint at all. -Put airbrush away. I think what I'm missing is cleaning whatever is between the tip and the pot, or using the little wrench to take the whole nozzle assembly off. But so far it's been running flawlessly other than a bit of dry tip here and there.
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Jul 27, 2017 18:12
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Baronjutter posted:Decals are hard, and I'm still hit or miss with them but have gotten steadily better and less scared of them over time. SkunkDuster posted:Did you mean to type Microsol there? Also, are you putting Microset on the model before applying the decal? I've since switched to Mr. Color Mark Setter and Mark Softer (mainly because they come with brushes attached to the caps) but the process is the same - apply microset to the model, apply the decal. If there are air bubbles, wait until it dries (so it doesn't move), then poke tiny holes and slather on the microsol. Thanks, guys. I honestly think my problem is that my gloss clear needs another coat or two. I was so happy with how smooth my finish was prior to clear coating since I'd switched to priming with Mr. Surfacer 1500 (thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner) and MRP brand paint. The finish was sooooo smooth, I probably could have put decals straight over the paint. Buuuut, I decided gloss coat so that maybe washes would take better. I think the gloss coat actually got a little rough and that's what hosed me. Unfortunately, I'm going to have remove the two large decals I've done and start over after glossing again 2-3 times. I switched from future a few months ago - right around the same time I switched to spraying Tamiya paints - and I think I might just switch back.
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Jul 27, 2017 18:28
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