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Thanks for all the suggestions thus far, guys. Going to check out the recommendations. Zaphod42 posted:Doom 1 doomguy was very green, but DO4M doomguy is almost blue-green. Which are you going for specifically? Going for DOOM 4, the Praetor suit from the pic there.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:40
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Shadin posted:Maybe you guys can help me with some color selection. I'm just getting into 40k and want to do a DOOM themed successor chapter because why not called Icons of Sin. Looking to base the scheme on the Praetor suit. If you are doing a Space Marine chapter of Doom Guys and don't call them the Doom Slayers then you are absolutely doing it wrong. You even have a logo. 
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Jul 25, 2017 00:42
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Shadin posted:Going for DOOM 4, the Praetor suit from the pic there. Yeah then definitely consider some blue-green shades like Texmo suggested. Not very blue, but there's definitely a touch of it in the green.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:45
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:If you are doing a Space Marine chapter of Doom Guys and don't call them the Doom Slayers then you are absolutely doing it wrong. You’re not wrong, haha. I picked Icons of Sin for the last level/boss of DOOM2 since I was thinking a Dark Angels successor. Doom Slayers would also be badass. Thankfully I can paint before deciding.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:50
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Does primer color actually matter at all for minis? I have a few things that tutorials are telling me to use grey primer on (Space Marines, some Droids) ands I have black and white and primer cans are expensive. Will my space marines look weird if I slap them with black first over the grey? What's it do?
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Jul 25, 2017 01:34
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Quidthulhu posted:Does primer color actually matter at all for minis? I have a few things that tutorials are telling me to use grey primer on (Space Marines, some Droids) ands I have black and white and primer cans are expensive. Will my space marines look weird if I slap them with black first over the grey? What's it do? Matching or getting closer on primer color just means you need fewer layers to get to the specific shade you want. If you prime red, then even if you go from bright red to brick red, its only going to take a couple thin layers. If you prime black, getting to a vibrant red could take like 5 layers or more if you want it to look good and not globby. Should be workable to get to any color with any primer really just takes more work. In general dark colors starting with black looks pretty good, while colors like white and yellow that are lighter need to start with a white primer, but you could also start with white primer in order to get like a pastel look or something. Just comes down to how many layers. The primer itself will stick to the model in a nice thin coat and let your paint stick to that, so any primer is better than no primer. Getting the right color just saves time.
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Jul 25, 2017 01:48
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If you want it bright, prime it white. If you're slack, prime it black. If you can rhyme something with Grey, good job.
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Jul 25, 2017 02:32
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Quidthulhu posted:Does primer color actually matter at all for minis? I have a few things that tutorials are telling me to use grey primer on (Space Marines, some Droids) ands I have black and white and primer cans are expensive. Will my space marines look weird if I slap them with black first over the grey? What's it do? Grey primer is like 3 or 4 bucks at Wal-Mart. Get that Rustoleum Automotive Primer and never look back.
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Jul 25, 2017 03:00
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bonds0097 posted:It's known to not have the best adhesion. My latest batch of marines, despite gloss coating before washing and matte coating after washing, in addition to the primer undercoat, I had some paint just come off when using blue-tac to clean off debris. It just doesn't bond all that well. I used to swear by the cheapest cans of flat white/grey/black from Walmart, color place, for priming. Sure there were occasional due cans, but a quick test on some cardboard is easy enough to do, and even if it was about 1/4 off cans being not good, it was still cheaper than any other brand. But they're impossible to find now, so now I really like rustoleum 2x primer. I've heard similar issues with Vallejo airbrush primers, it sounds more like a gesso mix rather than something which binds more closely to its surface.
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Jul 25, 2017 04:09
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Zaphod42 posted:JFC these highlights, I love your style. I don't know how I'd describe it, its... thick and juicy? But not like in a 'thick paint' way, it just looks vibrant and ... almost like comic cel-shading or something?! Thanks, thick and juicy's a new one  It's probably because I use a larger brush and a tendency to over-exaggerate the highlights, my old Dark Angels looked like green metal paint due to taking the highlights too far.The metals were just Leadbelcher, Blue wash, then a light drybrush of Troll Slayer Orange followed by an even lighter drybrush of Leadbelcher again. Quidthulhu posted:Does primer color actually matter at all for minis? I have a few things that tutorials are telling me to use grey primer on (Space Marines, some Droids) ands I have black and white and primer cans are expensive. Will my space marines look weird if I slap them with black first over the grey? What's it do? It's already been covered but rule of thumb: Black = Darker overall model, White = Brighter colours, Grey = Neutral. But there are some differences in how you paint the model based on primer choice. If you start with black primer, missing tiny areas such as hard to reach places behind weapons etc.. isn't the end of the world as they'll be black and it'll look like a shadow. Doing this with white or grey can look pretty bad, and isn't always noticeable until later. I used to use black primer for mainly this reason, but I always seemed to want to paint brighter colours which over black can take A LOT of layers (and patience) so I switched to white. Using white (and grey) as a primer I found painting the shadows first easier, so rather than Black->Base->Layer->Shade->Highlight... I'd do White->Shade->Layer->Highlight... covering the whole primer in the shade first also means those previous hard to reach places are covered. I find this a lot faster, and with grey I can knock out a few mini's from primer to highlight in a few hours this way, just have a hairdryer ready for the shade/wash phase to avoid waiting. I'll still use black if I'm painting something that is predominately black, likewise for white but grey is great for 90% of everything else. TLDR; Use grey. richyp fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 07:16
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Said it before, I'll say it again, Tamiya fine gray is the poo poo.
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Jul 25, 2017 08:47
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Yeast posted:If you want it bright, prime it white. If you just wanna be like, "heeeeey", prime it grey.
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Jul 25, 2017 10:58
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So I've been working on my historically accurate sengoku samurai these past few weeks and started on the leader and his caterpillar mount: Anyone know where I can get tiny butterfly wings so I can make it look like Heimlich from Bug's life?  It isn't a ~mysterious eastern dragon~ because the caterpillar mount looks sweet.
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Jul 25, 2017 14:49
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Chill la Chill posted:So I've been working on my historically accurate sengoku samurai these past few weeks and started on the leader and his caterpillar mount: The answer, as always, is Reaper.
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Jul 25, 2017 15:31
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:24 hour cure? Welp. Should probably have read stuff. The label recommends 24 hours before applying masking tape, and may be overkill for just painting, but it probably does require a real curing period to really bond.
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Jul 25, 2017 23:04
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Slimnoid posted:The answer, as always, is Reaper. 
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Jul 25, 2017 23:37
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I need some help comin up with a disco paint scheme for marines, anybody got some ideas? I'd look to do something vibrant and colorful, but maybe a flashier crystalline look would work?
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Jul 26, 2017 02:26
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Munchables posted:I need some help comin up with a disco paint scheme for marines, anybody got some ideas? I'd look to do something vibrant and colorful, but maybe a flashier crystalline look would work? Find that chrome reflective paint that somebody posted earlier in the thread...
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Jul 26, 2017 03:23
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I converted a new stone bearer for my Trollblood krielstone unit.     Here's the old original for comparison. Pretty sure this was the first Trollblood infantry I ever painted. Kept the new guy a little simple to help him blend in a bit. He's hilariously oversized compared to the scribe models, but that's appropriate in this case probs.   Edit: man that lighting is janky. I assume the new background has something to do with it. It's always something with my photos, ugh.
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Jul 26, 2017 04:03
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Crossposting my progress from the Chapter Challenge thread. 
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Jul 26, 2017 04:30
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Zuul the Cat posted:Crossposting my progress from the Chapter Challenge thread. Looking good! Posting my dude as well: 
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Jul 26, 2017 10:44
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That dude is hella rad. I was looking at the Deathwatch shottie and thinking how to slap it on a Primaris guy. Wimped out in the end but I'm glad it's possible.
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Jul 26, 2017 14:17
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Does anyone have experience with Winsor Newton brush cleaner and restorer? I was just given some as a gift, and I was wondering how well it restores older brushes, and what the best method of use it has.
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Jul 26, 2017 18:37
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Der Shovel posted:The label recommends 24 hours before applying masking tape, and may be overkill for just painting, but it probably does require a real curing period to really bond. I've had it slough off from just painting on it after several days. Some people suggest to leave it for a week or more before painting.
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Jul 26, 2017 18:51
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Out of curiosity, are you dudes with Vallejo primer problems putting it on plastics or metals? I use it, all my crap is metal, and I haven't had any issues with bonding.
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Jul 26, 2017 19:28
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I don't know what you guys are doing wrong with the Vallejo surface primer. I use it all the time and it works great
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Jul 26, 2017 19:28
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grassy gnoll posted:Out of curiosity, are you dudes with Vallejo primer problems putting it on plastics or metals? I use it, all my crap is metal, and I haven't had any issues with bonding. Have you washed your minis?
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Jul 26, 2017 19:29
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My issue with Vallejo primer is that it would tear when I pulled the masking off, even after multiple days.
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Jul 26, 2017 19:51
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Hixson posted:I don't know what you guys are doing wrong with the Vallejo surface primer. I use it all the time and it works great In my experience with Vallejo, it's not that its bad- it's just that Stynlrez is better.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:31
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Does anyone have experience with Winsor Newton brush cleaner and restorer? I was just given some as a gift, and I was wondering how well it restores older brushes, and what the best method of use it has. I use this and have since art classes far before I took up minis. It's great, especially for cleaning paint out of ferrules if you gently caress up and get it caked in there. It won't be a miracle cure for really abused brushes but it's absolutely worth having on hand for the occasional soak to keep them going longer. EDIT: Never, ever get any of this on plastic miniatures or get clever and think you'll dunk one to strip some paint. It will dissolve the poo poo out of a GW mini at an alarming rate.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:37
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Shadin posted:I use this and have since art classes far before I took up minis. It's great, especially for cleaning paint out of ferrules if you gently caress up and get it caked in there. It won't be a miracle cure for really abused brushes but it's absolutely worth having on hand for the occasional soak to keep them going longer. Sounds like a great solution for all of my minis that are caked with poo poo.
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Jul 26, 2017 23:00
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Shadin posted:I use this and have since art classes far before I took up minis. It's great, especially for cleaning paint out of ferrules if you gently caress up and get it caked in there. It won't be a miracle cure for really abused brushes but it's absolutely worth having on hand for the occasional soak to keep them going longer.  thanks! It says on the bottle not to use it in plastic containers, so I just chalked that up to not on space barbies as well  Luckily my tamiya and Winsor newton brushes aren't in too bad of shape, so this should work just fine!
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Jul 26, 2017 23:03
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w00tmonger posted:Have you washed your minis? Used to, but my primer and paint stuck whether I did or not, so I stopped. All I do is give them a quick blast of compressed air to knock dust off before they get sprayed and painted.
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Jul 26, 2017 23:04
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grassy gnoll posted:Used to, but my primer and paint stuck whether I did or not, so I stopped. All I do is give them a quick blast of compressed air to knock dust off before they get sprayed and painted. Yeah in mainly just wondering if there's some release agent on the particular models your doing. I usually don't either, but I've also never had issues with Vallejo primer.
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Jul 26, 2017 23:27
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The Moon Monster posted:Sounds like a great solution for all of my minis that are caked with poo poo. Make sure you take pics for the thread tia
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Jul 27, 2017 00:05
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On the subject of primers, if you're new to painting minis and using GWs chaos black primer, be very careful not to get too much on. I have 4 or 5 minis that refuse to strip even after soaking in simple green, LA's awesome and Super Clean over the course of like 2 months
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Jul 27, 2017 00:53
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Munchables posted:On the subject of primers, if you're new to painting minis and using GWs chaos black primer, be very careful not to get too much on. I have 4 or 5 minis that refuse to strip even after soaking in simple green, LA's awesome and Super Clean over the course of like 2 months I also have never successfully stripped Chaos Black off of anything regardless of how long it soaked. I immediately stopped using it afterwards.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:03
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You shouldn't worry about a stripping a primer layer, unless it went totally wrong.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:08
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MasterSlowPoke posted:You shouldn't worry about a stripping a primer layer, unless it went totally wrong. Yeah but in that case it went totally wrong. But yeah you want basically the bare minimum amount of primer on the model to get an even coating. Don't spray right up against the model, and wave your spray can past the model in passes, not direct spraying.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:21
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The best thing I've found is biostrip 20. It's expensive but reusable, takes like half an hour to an hour and requires minimal scrubbing. It takes chaos black off but the grey plastic will still be slightly stained a darker mottled grey.
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Jul 27, 2017 01:43
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