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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I need to get my weed wacker fixed too anyway. i need to stop buying ones so cheap that getting a new one is only $15 more than replacing the spool of line
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Jul 23, 2017 23:20
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So I had this really ugly picture rail with bead board deal on one wall in my kitchen. Curiosity finally killed the cat today and I ripped it off. This is what I found under, kind of slopes and the bottom white drywall or whatever it is, is about 1/8 of an inch raised. Seems like the right move would just be to cut all of this out and put up new drywall, because the effort of leveling all that and putting skim coat on it would probably be ridiculous. Is my head in the right place? Also bonus buried junction box with wires I'll assume are live. 
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Jul 23, 2017 23:22
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The Dave posted:wires I'll assume are live you have no idea how badly i wish i could rename forums
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Jul 23, 2017 23:42
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SoundMonkey posted:you have no idea how badly i wish i could rename forums This needs to be run up the chain of command.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:45
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Motronic posted:This needs to be run up the chain of command. i think you vastly overestimate the organizational structure here
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Jul 24, 2017 00:04
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The Dave posted:the bottom white drywall or whatever it is, is about 1/8 of an inch raised. Seems like the right move would just be to cut all of this out and put up new drywall, because the effort of leveling all that and putting skim coat on it would probably be ridiculous. Is my head in the right place? I just ran through this while gutting my kitchen - found more than 1/4" of mud applied to the drywall, for near as I can tell no goddamned reason. (I also found leveling strips stapled on to the high studs, to help create a bigger void at the low studs  ) I farted around for a while pretending I was going to hang the new drywall and just blend these weird edges out over a long distance. Finally came to my senses and ripped all of that crap down. Way easier to start fresh.
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Jul 24, 2017 00:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:So this is what the underside looks like. I have no experience with these, so I have no idea if the noise heard previously was from what are obviously damaged blades, or if I should be worried about the other parts as well: Do the blades spin freely when you turn them by hand? A common issue I've experienced with such decks is that the belt connecting the two blades (under a cover on top of the deck) is not that tight, so when a blade hits a hard object that blade alone will rotate a bit on the belt without the other blade moving along, many times this will make the blades collide and you will have to loosen the belt and adjust the two knives to no longer meeting when rotating.
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Jul 24, 2017 11:46
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eddiewalker posted:LEDs will put out tremendously less heat. I used to have two incandescent cans at my bathroom vanity and they felt like the outdoor sun. LEDs put out no noticeable heat in the same place. I installed the Ecosmart BD30 bulbs, and they really help, thanks! They buzz though, which is due to the fact that they have a non-LED dimmer, right? You mentioned Linear Z-wave dimmers: https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500...r+z-wave+dimmer That's it right?
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Jul 24, 2017 17:23
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I installed the Ecosmart BD30 bulbs, and they really help, thanks! They buzz though, which is due to the fact that they have a non-LED dimmer, right? You mentioned Linear Z-wave dimmers: Those are, imo, the best z-wave dimmers available if you have a neutral available in your switch box. The non-dimming and 3way versions are great too. There are a few other brands advertised as "no neutral needed" that operate their RF circuitry by leeching a small current through the light bulb filament. That doesn't work with LEDs. YMMV on the bulbs. I've got one of those dimmers controlling a bank of 6 of the Ecosmart trimmed recessed bulbs and its great. No hum or flicker. I just set a 20% minimum dim threshold in the zwave controller. On the other hand, I had some of the ecosmart "standard shape" 60w-equivalents that would not dim at all. I'm sure they're just slapping a label on whatever they can source cheap, but the HD return policy is painless.
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Jul 24, 2017 17:41
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Has anybody dabbled in making stuff out of metal studs? I'm doing an experiment with them to see if I can hold up a big grill for an outdoor kitchen. I got the most basic frame together and it's kind of rickety. In truth, I would have this problem with pressure-treated pine at this point. However, I'm wondering if there is special consideration I should give towards how to being to reinforce it. It looks like I should try to use the wide part of the metal stud for structure. Yes, I do know I need to spray down all the bits I cut and drill with a galvanizing paint. That being said, do I have to do that in detail with it disassembled or can I get the benefits zapping the exposed bits as I have them screwed together.
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Jul 24, 2017 18:58
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The Dave posted:Seems like the right move would just be to cut all of this out and put up new drywall, because the effort of leveling all that and putting skim coat on it would probably be ridiculous. Is my head in the right place? I would do the same, remove and then put up new drywall. Of course removing it exposes the risk that you'll just uncover more horror.
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Jul 24, 2017 20:32
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My riding mower won’t start. It’s a John Deere LA115 and has a 19.5 Briggs and Stratton engine. It tries to crank but won’t fully fire off. So far I have replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel bowl in the carb, charged the battery. It is definitely getting fuel, I pulled the line off to verify it was flowing. Fuel bowl was not very dirty. Gas should be fine, mower ran fine last week when I mowed. As a little background, as long as. I have had the mower it would not restart if it was turned off at operating temperature. On a cold start it would puff a little white smoke but started fine. I bought a new spark plug but broke it off somehow putting it in so the old one is back in there, but it did not look fouled. I did use a spark plug wire test light and it’s at least getting spark to the plug itself. Beyond the spark plug what else could it be?
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Jul 25, 2017 01:25
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Rubiks Pubes posted:My riding mower won’t start. It’s a John Deere LA115 and has a 19.5 Briggs and Stratton engine. It tries to crank but won’t fully fire off. So far I have replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel bowl in the carb, charged the battery. It is definitely getting fuel, I pulled the line off to verify it was flowing. Fuel bowl was not very dirty. Gas should be fine, mower ran fine last week when I mowed. As a little background, as long as. I have had the mower it would not restart if it was turned off at operating temperature. On a cold start it would puff a little white smoke but started fine. I bought a new spark plug but broke it off somehow putting it in so the old one is back in there, but it did not look fouled. I did use a spark plug wire test light and it’s at least getting spark to the plug itself. Beyond the spark plug what else could it be? You may have better luck in this AI thread. In related news my 10 year old mower deck came in 3 different "spindle" designs and I bought the wrong belt FUCKKKKK
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Jul 25, 2017 02:16
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Talking about the floor around the toilet, again. I don't have a picture/diagram to upload at the moment, but here's the rough idea: The cut out piece of floor is about 32" long by 22" deep (from edge of remaining floor on the 'wall side'). Under the 32" run there are three joists which are Joist 1 (15 space") Joist 2 (14 space") Joist 3. Between Joist 2 and 3 is the flange, center flange is just about 11" from edge of wall-side floor and about 5" from joist 3. Intially I cut my plywood to two lengthwise cuts of about 32x8" and 32"x14" to be able to slide my plywood in beneath the flange and because I figured it was better to have two planks running over three joists each with edge support, but I still have to put in some sort of reinforcement along the seam where the the two pieces meet around the flange to keep that strong. I've already put in a 2x4 box inside the joists on Joist 2 and 3 for edge support. But before I go much further, I've been wondering if I should be doing this a different way before I put in my edge support between joists 1 and 2. I'll need to put in three spaced at about 0"-15"-22" to support all four edges of the two pieces of wood. If I'm not in love with the idea of cutting off the flange (It's ABS, there's not a lot of room for error since the drain pipe past the flange seems rather short, and there's not a lot of ABS flanges to be found in my region, anyway). Should I have opted for something like cutting pieces to be 22"x22 and an 10"X22" instead of two longer, thinner ones? (The grain would still run over the perpendicular to joists, though) JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 15:58
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How/where do you get those clear plastic/rubberized protectors on a removable shower head hose that I always see in hotels? This $120 Delta scuffed up the tiles in my rental and I want to avoid roughing up any more shower surrounds. The only thing I could think of was clear heat shrink which seems like overkill and not flexible enough. Any tips for polishing out or covering dark marks on white tile? They're shallow enough that I can't feel them and they don't just wash off.
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Jul 26, 2017 05:42
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NancyPants posted:How/where do you get those clear plastic/rubberized protectors on a removable shower head hose that I always see in hotels? This $120 Delta scuffed up the tiles in my rental and I want to avoid roughing up any more shower surrounds. The only thing I could think of was clear heat shrink which seems like overkill and not flexible enough. What about masking off the sprayer and coating it with an aerosol rubber like LeakStop or Plastidip? Does an abrasive cleaner like Comet not take out the existing scuffs? MagicEraser/melamine sponge? e: on second thought, leakstop is a mess and a half. Plastidip might work though. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jul 26, 2017 |
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Jul 26, 2017 05:51
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Has anybody dabbled in making stuff out of metal studs? I'm doing an experiment with them to see if I can hold up a big grill for an outdoor kitchen. I got the most basic frame together and it's kind of rickety. In truth, I would have this problem with pressure-treated pine at this point. However, I'm wondering if there is special consideration I should give towards how to being to reinforce it. It looks like I should try to use the wide part of the metal stud for structure. My Dad and I made an outdoor kitchen area framed out with metal studs about 10 years ago. The frame itself is pretty rickity until you skin it with something. We used the concrete tile backer board. Then tiled over the whole thing. Big rear end grill set right in the center of it.
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Jul 26, 2017 13:04
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Thumposaurus posted:My Dad and I made an outdoor kitchen area framed out with metal studs about 10 years ago. The frame itself is pretty rickity until you skin it with something. We used the concrete tile backer board. Then tiled over the whole thing. Big rear end grill set right in the center of it. Ehh it's no good then for temporarily hold up a grill while I wait to make the rest of the island. I also discovered pressure-treated 2x4s are currently cheaper than the metal studs! So I disassembled the thing last night.
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Jul 26, 2017 20:08
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If I have a small nitrogen cylinder, where exactly can I go to get it filled with 100% nitrogen? Do places like Airgas work with individuals or are they business-to-business only?
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Jul 27, 2017 02:17
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Three-Phase posted:If I have a small nitrogen cylinder, where exactly can I go to get it filled with 100% nitrogen? Do places like Airgas work with individuals or are they business-to-business only? Matheson (formerly Linweld) has nitrogen listed on their website. I've got no trouble buying small quantities of welding gas there, and I can't imagine anywhere else with a service counter turning you away. Your cylinder has to have a recent certification stamp, though. (10 years?) otherwise you'll have to pay for testing. My place ignores the expiration on swaps for bottles with their logo, so maybe see if your battle is stamped and go there.
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Jul 27, 2017 02:56
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Three-Phase posted:If I have a small nitrogen cylinder, where exactly can I go to get it filled with 100% nitrogen? Do places like Airgas work with individuals or are they business-to-business only? i can't speak for anyone else but airgas works with any jackass who can wave money in the air
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Jul 27, 2017 03:16
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JediTalentAgent posted:Talking about the floor around the toilet, again. I don't have a picture/diagram to upload at the moment, but here's the rough idea: It might be better to rethink cutting off the flange and going with a single piece of plywood. If the drain pipe past the flange is too short, maybe something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Flo-40056...s+toilet+flange There are also flange extenders available.
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Jul 27, 2017 08:14
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Gotcha - thanks guys. The Airgas comment made me laugh.
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Jul 27, 2017 12:50
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I need to cover a 5x12 area with some kind of mulch for my kids new swing set. I saw there's that rubber shredded stuff. Seems decent. It's also currently boxed in with railroad ties, but I'm concerned that the corners could be too sharp if the kids fell on them. Any opinions on the rubber mulch (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rubberific-0-8-cu-ft-Red-Rubber-Mulch/3199903) and an alternative for the ties? I was considering maybe just taking my belt sander and circular saw and just rounding the edges so they aren't sharp.
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Jul 27, 2017 17:22
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I need to cover a 5x12 area with some kind of mulch for my kids new swing set. I saw there's that rubber shredded stuff. Seems decent. It's also currently boxed in with railroad ties, but I'm concerned that the corners could be too sharp if the kids fell on them. Rubber mulch has a tendency to get extremely hot in direct sunlight, so look into that. If you are in a sunny spot it is probably not suitable.
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Jul 27, 2017 18:05
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I dunno if this applies to all rubber mulch but the stuff I've seen is pretty nasty. It's made from recycled tires and has bits of metal on it. Not something I'd want kids playing on, I think.
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Jul 27, 2017 18:23
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I've read that athletes that spend a lot of time on artificial turf are more at risk of various health hazards, too. Probably not an issue for just casual play, but I wouldn't willingly use it if there were alternatives.
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Jul 27, 2017 18:46
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I need to cover a 5x12 area with some kind of mulch for my kids new swing set. I saw there's that rubber shredded stuff. Seems decent. It's also currently boxed in with railroad ties, but I'm concerned that the corners could be too sharp if the kids fell on them. I looked into this and it's going to be retarded expensive for anything other than a cosmetic covering (actual shock absorption from falls). I wound up with washed round pea gravel (specify the washed or the kids wind up tracking stone dust everywhere, which is abrasive...). For the landscape timbers I hit up the edges with a big round over bit on a router. May have been 1/2 or 3/4" radius, I think the bigger ones get expensive. I'm sure a saw and sander would work, I just don't have the workmanship to not have it look like poo poo I think.
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Jul 27, 2017 19:21
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glynnenstein posted:Rubber mulch has a tendency to get extremely hot in direct sunlight, so look into that. If you are in a sunny spot it is probably not suitable. It's in full shade, so that's not an issue, but: n.. posted:I dunno if this applies to all rubber mulch but the stuff I've seen is pretty nasty. It's made from recycled tires and has bits of metal on it. Not something I'd want kids playing on, I think. Looks like it's specificallly "certified" for playgrounds. uwaeve posted:I looked into this and it's going to be retarded expensive for anything other than a cosmetic covering (actual shock absorption from falls). I wound up with washed round pea gravel (specify the washed or the kids wind up tracking stone dust everywhere, which is abrasive...). Yeah, that's what I'm worried about. The bag says it covers 9 sqft at 1 inch, the space is just for a cheap regular metal swing set, so it'll be about 60 sqft, but I'm sure the bag doesn't go as far as it says it will. Is the pea gravel safe to fall off a swing on?
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Jul 27, 2017 19:52
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Yeah, that's what I'm worried about. The bag says it covers 9 sqft at 1 inch, the space is just for a cheap regular metal swing set, so it'll be about 60 sqft, but I'm sure the bag doesn't go as far as it says it will. Is the pea gravel safe to fall off a swing on? Define "safe". Kid'll be hurt, but they shouldn't be badly hurt.
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Jul 27, 2017 21:57
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Jerk McJerkface posted:It's in full shade, so that's not an issue, but: There's some equivalence in some document, I can't find the one I used but found this while phoneposting. Not to send you down the rabbit hole but from a safety standpoint I think the guidelines are to prevent head injuries, and the fall heights I think are more from a stationary 2nd level of a playground type thing. Same goes for if your kids, like mine, insist on climbing to the highest point of anything, even a simple a-frame swing. On the flip side, unless you're just flopping off a stationary swing, I think I would have a hard time hitting a 5x12 area under the swing set if I were to fall off while swinging, so it may be a moot point. I think I have 10" of pea gravel and it's fun for me and of the kids to jump into from height, so there's that. I mean they act brain damaged but I don't think it's from falling off the playground. Knowing government studies the recommendations are probably overkill. Also 360 bucks isn't the end of the world for your application, i think I was looking at like 800 square feet so that's probably why I was like "gently caress that noise" when i priced the rubber stuff. I think the round pea gravel cost me like 600 but I could be misremembering. Plus I paid a bunch of dudes to haul and spread it, but that was in the quote to excavate and lay landscape timbers so not sure the actual cost unless you wanna haul two literal tons of gravel from wherever they dump it to the swingset. eta: we all grew up on frigging concrete playgrounds and climbing huge rear end trees and we literally all made it. I'm sure a few unlucky sons of bitches died but I just remember kids would break ankles and collarbones and poo poo, I didn't go to a lot of playground-induced funerals. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 27, 2017 |
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Jul 27, 2017 22:00
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uwaeve posted:There's some equivalence in some document, I can't find the one I used but found this while phoneposting. Not to send you down the rabbit hole but from a safety standpoint I think the guidelines are to prevent head injuries, and the fall heights I think are more from a stationary 2nd level of a playground type thing. Same goes for if your kids, like mine, insist on climbing to the highest point of anything, even a simple a-frame swing. On the flip side, unless you're just flopping off a stationary swing, I think I would have a hard time hitting a 5x12 area under the swing set if I were to fall off while swinging, so it may be a moot point. I think I have 10" of pea gravel and it's fun for me and of the kids to jump into from height, so there's that. I mean they act brain damaged but I don't think it's from falling off the playground. Knowing government studies the recommendations are probably overkill. Thanks for the info! The area already has landscape timbers, and it's just a crappy a-frame swing, so there's no crazy multi level playground. It's also a pretty small area too, so maybe the rubber won't be too much.
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Jul 27, 2017 22:15
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uwaeve posted:wherever they dump it neighbor's parking spot on the street, 100% of the time, right
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Jul 28, 2017 00:49
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SoundMonkey posted:neighbor's parking spot on the street, 100% of the time, right That or by the garage.
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Jul 28, 2017 01:06
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I've got this old vent that used to be used with an oven that's not been in the house for decades. Now I'm selling and an inspector says I should cap it - which sounds easy, but damned if I can find one. I'm just looking for a simple 4" aluminum vent cap - I can jury-rig it a hundred different ways but I want something that's going to pass inspection. What am I looking for? "Vent cap" just gives me things that are meant to go on the outside of the house, nothing for simply blocking an unused vent.
jackpot fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jul 28, 2017 |
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Jul 28, 2017 04:28
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"Duct cap" pops up some things that are probably what you're looking for.
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Jul 28, 2017 04:31
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Enourmo posted:"Duct cap" pops up some things that are probably what you're looking for.  Next up: besides needing some obvious mortar work, I've got to seal some holes around the house. Can I do this with the foam-spray sealants that come in a can, or should I use one of the two-component kinds? Or something else entirely?
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Jul 28, 2017 04:51
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jackpot posted:That's exactly it, I just hadn't thought of the right words to search for. Don't use spray foam outdoors. It looks like poo poo gets gross. You want a caulk sealant, although the one on the left is gonna be weird to fill from the looks of it.
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Jul 28, 2017 04:58
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Yeah baby fill that caulk
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Jul 28, 2017 05:30
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jackpot posted:That's exactly it, I just hadn't thought of the right words to search for. If you still can't find one that works try a $100 sellers credit.
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Jul 28, 2017 14:45
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