|
Just made the very novice mistake of using Tamiya's accent color on some gloss coated Vallejo parts for panel lining. The stuff is a miracle to apply. I then used thinner to remove the drop spots outside the lines. Big mistake, both thinners ate through the gloss coat, the color coat, and the primer. Whoops. I knew that stronger thinners eat weaker paints, but for some reason told myself the gloss coat protected the layers beneath it. Not so. I'm gonna have to redo these parts - how do you panel line acrylic, with Gundam marker? Wouldn't an enamel thinner eat through any paint but lacquer -- am I relegated to used lacquer paints if I want to use Tamiya accent color? Even the pour type markers, of which I have a few colors, require some kind of thinner to remove the blotches.
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2017 23:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 00:38 |
|
|
I believe Tamiya Accents are enamel so you would use something like zippo lighter fluid since your enamel thinner seems to be too strong. Lighter fluid works great for my enamel panel lining. Doesn't Tamiya have acrylic thinner and lacquer thinner for the same paint or something?
That Gobbo fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jul 30, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:05
|
|
|
Tamiya accents are indeed enamel - I was using Testors 1148 thinner, which I believe is an enamel thinner. I'll look into some lighter fluid, I guess. Could the problem be that my topcoat was Mr. Topcoat which is acrylic instead of enamel, so the thinner just ate its way down?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:09
|
|
|
I've read that sometimes mixing different brands of paints/coats and thinners can do real funky things. Did you give the clear coat time to cure? I'd recommend doing at least 2 coats of it for more protection. If you have any more trouble with the clear coat I'd recommend Pledge Future Floor Polish as it's a very strong acrylic clear coat and cheap as dirt. It's self leveling and you can handbrush, dip your parts, or you can even put it in an airbrush as is.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:14
|
|
|
Due to laziness these parts have been clear coated for well over a month and I was just now getting started on my project again. I might not have put enough on. Since I do have an airbrush I've been considering future floor but I've heard it takes some finesse?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:15
|
|
|
e; double post
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:17
|
|
|
Can attest to Future being a really strong clearcoat; it's withstood acrylics and enamels, and would probably need a little elbow grease for lacquer to do real damage. The stuff is intended for use on floors, so it's made to be pretty drat strong. quote:Since I do have an airbrush I've been considering future floor but I've heard it takes some finesse? It's possible to overspray and end up with a thick clear coat, but so long as you dont do that then it levels out pretty nicely. You can also brush it on with minimal/no brush strokes visible, so you can do that for the more detail-heavy areas you're worried about filling in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:18
|
|
|
Huh. I've always been superstitious that in my naivete I'd ruin the inside of my airbrush with the stuff, somehow, but I might as well try. Guess I'll pick some of that up to finish the clear coating and also grab some zippo to be safe. Nothing feels worse than stripping paint off a part.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:20
|
|
|
I've left Future in my airbrush overnight and I just had to do the usual after-session cleaning to clean up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:22
|
|
|
Zodack posted:Nothing feels worse than stripping paint off a part. For sure. A big part of why I tend to use lacquers instead of enamels when possible is that I've had horrible luck with scratched/uncurable paint coats. The eventual lung cancer is worth straight up melting the colors into the plastic.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:23
|
|
|
Unfortunately for me there aren't any lacquers available nearby, I've really only got a selection between Testors enamels and Vallejo acrylics. I could always buy Tamiya online but it seems fairly expensive and hard to find a place with good stock. Plus, I live in an apartment that is fairly small, so acrylics mean I don't have to tangle with using a fancy mask (I still use a basic mask with acrylics to be safe) and then airing out the place.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 00:34
|
|
|
You could also look into mechanical removal of paint splotches and whatnot, pencil erasers work great especially if it's a recently applied splotch over cured paint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 02:27
|
|
|
END ME SCOOB posted:So today I opened one of the Sprukits boxes for the first time, and, uh... Yeah, I'm building this too since I got it for like 13 on amazon. Working on this before I finish up a gouf 2.0 and so far it's not bad, for $13. If I had paid $55 for it like it originally sold for I'd be disappointed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 03:27
|
|
|
Just wondering - do the Star Wars kits have English directions? That seems like a thing they might do if they're pushing hard over here.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:02
|
|
|
Mimir posted:Just wondering - do the Star Wars kits have English directions? That seems like a thing they might do if they're pushing hard over here. None that I've seen. They were originally only licensed to be sold in Japan, they just got very popular with importers because they were leagues ahead of Revell's crap. Revell threw a fit at Disney, and Bandai had to crack down on exporting them. It's only recently that Bluefin's managed to get a legitimate importing agreement in place for the US.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:13
|
|
|
 I'm not sure I understand what wonder festival is doing but I don't think I can complain either
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:18
|
|
|
asterioth posted:Yeah, I'm building this too since I got it for like 13 on amazon. Working on this before I finish up a gouf 2.0 and so far it's not bad, for $13. If I had paid $55 for it like it originally sold for I'd be disappointed. Yeah, that original price made me think this was gonna be MG-quality or so and it definitely feels a little cheap from the few parts I did before work.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:24
|
|
|
After a lot of reading and watching a ton of YT vids for preparation for using my cheap airbrush, I gave it a shot this morning. Primed some parts with Vallejo Air white primer that are currently not being used.   About 6 hours later ran some Tamiya flat black over them.   A bit light in a few places but I'll probably touch it up in a day or so. All in all, an excellent choice for me and I can see me painting a lot more with this thing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:30
|
|
|
Zodack posted:Unfortunately for me there aren't any lacquers available nearby, I've really only got a selection between Testors enamels and Vallejo acrylics. I could always buy Tamiya online but it seems fairly expensive and hard to find a place with good stock. Plus, I live in an apartment that is fairly small, so acrylics mean I don't have to tangle with using a fancy mask (I still use a basic mask with acrylics to be safe) and then airing out the place. Future works great, just make sure you let it cure for at least a day. If you're using waterslide decals with micro sol/set, future might not be a good choice since they dont play well together sometimes. If you're in the US, I'd recommend looking through ebay for Tamiya paints, or looking at websites that are primarily aimed at the scale model market. Neddy Seagoon posted:None that I've seen. They were originally only licensed to be sold in Japan, they just got very popular with importers because they were leagues ahead of Revell's crap. Revell threw a fit at Disney, and Bandai had to crack down on exporting them. It's only recently that Bluefin's managed to get a legitimate importing agreement in place for the US. I'm working on a Tie Interceptor that I bought at a hobby lobby with the bluefin sticker on the box. The instructions are in Japanese and English.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:41
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:Future works great, just make sure you let it cure for at least a day. If you're using waterslide decals with micro sol/set, future might not be a good choice since they dont play well together sometimes. I've had good success with Mark Setter/Softer and Future.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:43
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:I'm working on a Tie Interceptor that I bought at a hobby lobby with the bluefin sticker on the box. The instructions are in Japanese and English. That's a recent thing then, because the R2-D2 and C-3PO kits are only in Japanese.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 04:46
|
|
|
END ME SCOOB posted:$2 TMNT figures I would like to know more
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:06
|
|
|
I live in a small apartment, is it cool to airbrush indoors? Like by my window or something?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:08
|
|
|
Taintrunner posted:I live in a small apartment, is it cool to airbrush indoors? Like by my window or something? gently caress no, you at least need a booth with a fan and a mask (TBF you need the mask no matter where you airbrush) but even then I wouldn't bother
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:10
|
|
|
I have a similar situation, I use a spray booth to extract out my window and I wear a respirator mask while I spray. I usually leave the spray booth fan on for an hour or so after a session and that's worked well for me. How hard you wanna go kind of depends on the type of paint you're using. Acrylics are safer and don't leave fumes like lacquer paints do but I use a spray booth for the extra safety. Vallejo is a really good acrylic brand for airbrushing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:13
|
|
|
long-rear end nips Diane posted:gently caress no, you at least need a booth with a fan and a mask (TBF you need the mask no matter where you airbrush) but even then I wouldn't bother Ah, okay. Just double checking, phew.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:16
|
|
|
Light Gun Man posted:I would like to know more https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s//ref=mw_dp_a_s?ie=UTF8&k=SpruKits These things are very clearly just being DUMPED from a warehouse. It's a weird selection of licenses. It looks like the supremely cheap ones I got may have run out and it's on a slightly less discounted amount.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:43
|
|
|
I took a look at the level 3 Master Chief and I might pick one up, looks decent enough for a paint job and weathering.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 05:48
|
|
|
Well, I guess I need no longer ask how the hell SpruKits are still on the market. RIP poorly-promoted, never-updated, weird and dumb plamo series, I guess. I'm still wondering if Barnes & Noble is going to go for another round of Gunpla once the current closeouts are done, or if it's going to be all Star Wars/DBZ all the time from here on out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 07:55
|
|
|
It's a shame, but they def. Didn't think things through on the level 1 series, which is kind of important for the line's overall plans. For slightly more than the level one models a kid could get a 12 inch figure with the same articulation and actual paint apps instead of a horrific eye/mouthless joker monstrosity. They really didn't put much thought into how they would fit into the western toy market. The $50 level end doesn't fair much better against same-license NECA/Mcfarlane/Mattel offerings, but at least at that end they boast superior articulation. At least with the Advanced Grade concept the figures looked very similar to HG until you moved them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 10:38
|
|
|
Neurolimal posted:It's a shame, but they def. Didn't think things through on the level 1 series, which is kind of important for the line's overall plans. Yeah, I finished the level 3 master chief earlier and it's not that bad, but its not great either. It's almost like a full mechanics kit in terms of surface detail. Theres not a ton of color seperation, but its not that bad for the master chief one, his armor is primarily like 3 colors anyway. Probably going to use this as a testbed to do some minor weathering/painting and see how it turns out. asterioth fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Jul 30, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 13:50
|
|
|
Taintrunner posted:I live in a small apartment, is it cool to airbrush indoors? Like by my window or something? Fwiw, I live in a two room apartment and I use a booth with a fan and a mask and so far it's been okay. But I use acrylics. So anything other than that might not be worth the hassle.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 15:51
|
|
|
Zodack posted:Fwiw, I live in a two room apartment and I use a booth with a fan and a mask and so far it's been okay. But I use acrylics. So anything other than that might not be worth the hassle. So long as you're just using acrylics, a simple fan in a box with a basic mask will work just fine indoors. It's when you use enamels and lacquers that you need an explosion-proof fan.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 16:02
|
|
|
Acrylic paint will build up on a direct-flow fan, creating a potential fire hazard, so that's no bueno either.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 20:04
|
|
|
Bimmi posted:Acrylic paint will build up on a direct-flow fan, creating a potential fire hazard, so that's no bueno either. Not if you spray a bottle of isopropyl into the fan after you're done. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 20:21
|
|
|
can't you just pur an air filter in front of the fan to take care of that problem?
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 20:23
|
|
|
Yeah I've got one of those $70-80 booth + fan + filter you can get on Amazon. Very nice imo
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2017 21:17
|
|
|
mikeycp posted:can't you just pur an air filter in front of the fan to take care of that problem? You still need an explosion-proof fan, iirc.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 16:31
|
|
|
Kibner posted:You still need an explosion-proof fan, iirc. Yes, any vaporous solvent is going to love to burn and most filters don't do much against vapor, though they take aerosols down much better.
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 17:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 00:38 |
|
|
Are the IBO Full mechanics kits just 1/100 scale hg's?
|
|
#
?
Jul 31, 2017 19:43
|
|
