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Buhbuhj posted:Could be the stator but it could also be the hot start issue. Not cranking at all might rule that out though. I've never had any problems with hot starts on this bike, other than an occaisional stumble or slightly longer crank time. It died at a stoplight today, cranked over but failed to start a few times for me while I frantically duckwalked it through an intersection, and again after I stopped... then it failed to crank altogether. The gauge turned on but the starter failed to engage at all. Like a dumbass I forgot to measure batt voltage once I got it home, and just plugged it straight into the tender. I'll do some googling, I'm sure there's a stator test procedure. On the bright side I had a wonderful AAA ride with Dmitry, who just moved to California from Russia 5 months ago. Our language barrier was profound despite his rather impressive 5month grasp of the local English, but when I gesticulated frantically about dashcams, crosstraffic, explosions and exclaimed " russian roads, blyat!!" he laughed and laughed 
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Jul 29, 2017 02:58
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I changed the thermo switch for my fan on the radiator today and I was fully expecting coolant to spill out but nothing happened. There was definitely an air pressure release though, you could hear the hiss. I saw some people online say coolant will come out but nothing on mine. Should I be concerned? The gold piece. Vstrom
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Jul 29, 2017 18:43
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I'd think that means your radiator is only half full
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Jul 29, 2017 19:15
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I don't know a single thing about radiators. I imagine it's supposed to be full to the top though. Does the coolant reservoir not fill it? Do I pop the cap and pour some coolant in?
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Jul 29, 2017 19:34
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I replaced the fan sensor on the 690 and had some coolent come shooting out, but not much in the second it took to put the new one in. Could the coolant pump be bad if there isn't much in the radiator and the bike is overheating?
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Jul 29, 2017 21:35
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Maybe? As I said I don't know a single thing about radiators except they cool the bike. I know the fan isn't working, maybe coolant isn't reaching the switch to trigger it. As long as I'm moving I'm not over heating but traffic is my worst enemy right now. And long stop lights. I do have a minor coolant leak coming from the thermostat, I ordered the parts to fix it but I just haven't gotten to it. It hasn't leaked much, figured throwing a little extra in the reservoir would help cover it. There's no coolant puddles just some dried coolant on the engine.
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Jul 29, 2017 22:02
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If your Thermo switch wasn't working then your engine was overheating and some coolant does get lost that way. The radiator should be filled to the to, I can't remember if that bike has a bleed screw anywhere but typically they have one on the head/barrels or the thermostat housing. You fill coolant straight down the radiator cap with the screw open so the air inside is displaced. Putting it in the overflow tank will eventually lead to it being sucked into the cooling system but relies on there being enough coolant so that a vacuum can form on the other side of the rad cap, plus not having any leaks. The system relies on being pressurised to raise the boiling point of the coolant/water/unicorn piss so that small leak turns into a pressurised jet when the engine is hot. Don't ride the bike until you fix this.
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Jul 29, 2017 22:38
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Yeah I opened the radiator cap and I can't even see any coolant. Roommate is going to bring me some coolant so I can fill it up before I go home. I'll fix that leak tomorrow and also flush the coolant because it's grimy and full of crud under the cap. Hopefully it hasn't sustained any damage...it's been riding fine. I'll finally have a real use for my pressure gun/gauge.
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Jul 30, 2017 00:04
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Hate to be a dick but if your coolant is disappearing and whats left is full of sludge you have bigger problems. In a car I would start by testing for combustion gasses which would be a head gasket.
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Jul 30, 2017 00:15
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gently caress man don't say that 
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Jul 30, 2017 00:21
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Schroeder91 posted:it's been riding fine A headgasket leak is (edit: usually) very noticeable, so it probably isn't that, maybe just a bad previous fill. Refill, ride for a few hundred miles, recheck, sleep well. It's probably fine. Ola fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Jul 30, 2017 |
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Jul 30, 2017 00:25
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Nah, man. His strom is bricked. Bet he doesn't just have one head gasket leaking. I bet both heads are leaking. I wouldn't start it until he's done a full rebuild.
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Jul 30, 2017 02:06
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Drain it. Fill it. Check it after a couple hundo. Move on with life.
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Jul 30, 2017 02:06
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 So, the rear wheel IS supposed to come off, right? Both wheels should take what, an hour tops? Not five? Rear axle is just loving STUBBORN. Like it's stuck on that last spacer. Heading out to grab a pipe to hammer it out the rest of the way, not confident about it.
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Jul 30, 2017 02:32
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HELP My DR650 won't start. Turn the key and no lights, no starting, nothing. Battery nuts are still tight, and battery is new. I checked the main fuse, as well as the headlight fuses, and all of them are fine. Just a minute before I turned it off at the mailbox, and it started back up again just fine. Then I parked it, ran into the house, came back out, and it is dead as a doornail. I did not notice if the lights were on before I hit the starter button. I also half remember hearing half a millisecond of noise when I hit the starter button before noticing nothing was working. This could be my imagination. What on earth could cause this?!
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Jul 30, 2017 02:39
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The ignition switch itself would be my first check
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Jul 30, 2017 02:46
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Oh yay I get to disassemble the ignition switch tomorrow.
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Jul 30, 2017 02:58
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Wiggle the connector and tap on the key first. Is it a real pain to probe a wire with a meter and check the voltage? Should be a pretty quick test.
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Jul 30, 2017 03:06
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Revvik posted:
Your rear axle isn't wider on one side than the other, is it?
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Jul 30, 2017 03:12
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I got a 1986 xr250r for basically free. It has no front forks but everything else has been recently replaced and works. Where can i look up which shocks are compatible to replace with? I know they are 41mm but I dont know any other specs I can find complete front ends easily on ebay but I just need shocks, no triple tree or axle or anything else Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jul 30, 2017 |
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Jul 30, 2017 03:37
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builds character posted:Your rear axle isn't wider on one side than the other, is it? It's not supposed to be, but it is. I'm ordering a new axle. I'm wondering how it got malformed.  It's off now, though.
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Jul 30, 2017 04:00
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Revvik posted:I'm wondering how it got malformed. Yep there's your answer.
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Jul 30, 2017 04:08
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Revvik posted:It's not supposed to be, but it is. I'm ordering a new axle. I'm wondering how it got malformed. Hang in there. It looks like you're 1/3 the way through solving your KTM problem.
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Jul 30, 2017 05:05
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Ha. I'm betting I marred the end of the axle pushing it through and it caught at the far end. A comically long ratchet extension helped. New axle ordered. $65 mistake on my part I guess, and I'm forced onto the DRZ for a while.
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Jul 30, 2017 05:47
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Revvik posted:It's not supposed to be, but it is. I'm ordering a new axle. I'm wondering how it got malformed. Ham-fisted previous removal of the rear axle would be my guess, people just go mental with hammers and drifts trying to get them out when normally all they need is a little bit of lube and steady pressure.
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Jul 30, 2017 08:35
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I'm a fan of rubber hammers/mallets for light tapping on slightly stubborn axles. Unless there is something really wrong you can get them out fine and you can't apply enough force to actually hurt anything.
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Jul 30, 2017 09:18
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Last time I was at the shop I saw the mechanic using something like a bicycle crank puller to get the front axle out, no hammers anywhere to be seen. I assume something like that would also work for the rear? e/ oh apparently that's what a drift is. Never heard it called that before! Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Jul 30, 2017 |
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Jul 30, 2017 09:22
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The best trick in getting axles in and out is getting the bike and wheel supported properly. Ideally you'd have the bike on an adjustable jack of some kind so you can precisely align the wheel to the swingarm and then you can just push the axle through, no drama. I rarely see axles that are really "stuck" with rust or whatever, it's just difficult to get everything aligned perfect. I use a soft mallet but it doesn't take much hitting.
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Jul 30, 2017 11:58
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Yeah, the main trick to pulling axles is: 1. Proper support of the wheel so that the axle isn't dragging on anything as you attempt to pull it out. Even a slight deflection can have massive drag. 2. Twisting the axle as you pull it out, if you can
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Jul 30, 2017 12:31
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Yeah twisting the axle just twisted the spacer behind it with it so something probably went very wrong but it's over now.
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Jul 30, 2017 21:21
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rdb posted:Wiggle the connector and tap on the key first. Is it a real pain to probe a wire with a meter and check the voltage? Should be a pretty quick test. Thanks for the suggestion. It always slips my mind to get in there with a multimeter. I checked continuity on the switch, and it works perfectly. Battery reads at over 13v, and should be fine. I was about to start dismantling wiring harneses, but I'd left the key on and when I turned around all the lights were working again. Confused, I tried to start it, and heard the most brief and quiets of clicks before everything failed again. At no point did the battery show signs of a weak charge, so it never occured to me the new battery could be defective/dead. I put the shorai from my KTM in the DR and now everything works perfectly again. My cheap battery wouldn't run anything but the LED headlight and dash in the 690, and failed entirely at starting it. How does a battery fail to work under load, but still outputs strong voltage?!
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Jul 31, 2017 00:05
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Coydog posted:Thanks for the suggestion. It always slips my mind to get in there with a multimeter. I checked continuity on the switch, and it works perfectly. Battery reads at over 13v, and should be fine. I was about to start dismantling wiring harneses, but I'd left the key on and when I turned around all the lights were working again. Dodgy cells, it can put out the volts but not the amps.
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Jul 31, 2017 00:26
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Coydog posted:Thanks for the suggestion. It always slips my mind to get in there with a multimeter. I checked continuity on the switch, and it works perfectly. Battery reads at over 13v, and should be fine. I was about to start dismantling wiring harneses, but I'd left the key on and when I turned around all the lights were working again. Voltage is just determined by how many cells it has and what their state of charge is. Current (the thing that actually turns the engine over) is dictated by the physical size of the cells. So it's like your battery has six fully charged cells but they're all super tiny because of low fluid or manufacturing defects or whatever.
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Jul 31, 2017 01:46
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Thank you both for that explaination. I don't know a ton about these batteries and wasn't sure what was going on. I just ordered a quality Yuasa like I should have in the first place, and will return this one. Next adventure: overhauling the turn signal system and figuring out why nothing there works. Getting ride of PO nightmares one at a time. This is why we tell people not to buy a fixer upper for their first/only bike.
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Jul 31, 2017 04:41
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Any thoughts on Shinko 705s as far as dirt and pavement performance, also longevity? The Heidenau K60 on the rear of my bike is gonna be worn out soon, and the Shinko price is super tempting. I'll still have the K60 on the front for a while, though.
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Jul 31, 2017 23:22
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I run the 705 on my Vstrom and I think they're fine. I'm 99.9% pavement and I've had no issues, although I'm not a huge fan of them in the water vs like pilot roads. Locked up the rear in the rain a few times now when coming to a stop light. Also got quite the wiggle through the bike when I went over a solid white curved line on the freeway in the rain. The couple dirt roads I did went fine. I think I got around 6-7k out of my rear maybe? It's been awhile.
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Jul 31, 2017 23:42
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I have the 705 on my DR650 and like them a lot, though I have no word on longevity. Done a lot of rain riding and felt ok. You can really rail em in the mountains and never feel close to losing traction, and they do fine in the brief off road I've done. I've already decided to replace them with another 705 when they wear out, if that helps.
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Aug 1, 2017 05:12
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Shinko: solid dualsport tires, poo poo street tires.
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Aug 1, 2017 05:35
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its all nice on rice posted:Shinko: solid dualsport tires, poo poo street tires. Word. Girly's husky has a set of 805's on and they're pretty incredible on the road and also decent on anything but sand and mud. Having said that, shinko sports tyres work super well and are very sticky and nice if you never get them wet/cold and don't care about longevity.
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Aug 1, 2017 06:06
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Any thoughts on Shinko 705s as far as dirt and pavement performance, also longevity? The Heidenau K60 on the rear of my bike is gonna be worn out soon, and the Shinko price is super tempting. I'll still have the K60 on the front for a while, though. How us the k60 on the front for you? I get good grip and longevity it seems (9000km so far, got about 50% thread life left) but it's very noisy at higher speeds on sealed surfaces and pretty vibey at lower speeds. I have it on my transalp, 21 inch tire.
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Aug 1, 2017 09:08
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