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itskage posted:How does it work for this? I was thinking of grabbing one of the cheap mono price ones (~$25 iirc) figuring I could use it to bond, repair, or touch up prints. Synthbuttrange posted:Wow neat. She usually uses something like a cheap white filament to build the main part of a build then uses colours over it. The pen basically doesnt care what filament you use as long as its 1.75mm, cheap or expensive they basically all work though you will notice differences in how well it adheres and such its pretty easy to allow for. She uses probably less than a kg a month or so but it depends what shes making. The rabbit there is mostly hollow for example whereas the hearthstone is pretty much solid. Overall it just depends if she has good ideas, she might make 3 or 4 things in a week and then leave it for a week or two until inspiration strikes so its pretty hard to estimate.
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Aug 3, 2017 12:05
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Ordered a Prusa i3 MK2S on the 26th and it shipped today. Seems they're just about caught up on the backlog.
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Aug 3, 2017 16:47
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Shalhavet posted:Ordered a Prusa i3 MK2S on the 26th and it shipped today. Seems they're just about caught up on the backlog. Kit or fully assembled?
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Aug 3, 2017 16:49
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Should the i3 mk2's bed make a rattling sound when doing fast fill movements? Mine's started doing it, and it's got me a little worried https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pruwM3CMad4
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Aug 3, 2017 18:57
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BabelFish posted:Should the i3 mk2's bed make a rattling sound when doing fast fill movements? Mine's started doing it, and it's got me a little worried Worst case scenario is that the sound you're hearing is where one of the bearing assemblies lost some BBs during assembly and you're hearing the remaining BBs slapping each other inside the bearing. Long term it might mean replacing the entire bearing assembly, but unless it affects print quality I wouldn't let it bother you.
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Aug 3, 2017 19:01
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Kit or fully assembled? I got the kit. They updated the store to say the lead time is 2-3 weeks now, looks like.
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Aug 3, 2017 20:28
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Any particular reason why I'd have those feature based issues? It seems over the whole test cube, every other layer is shifted ever so slightly on Y-axis, except where the extrusion comes out of the holes. The printer is the CTC clone of the Flashforge Pro, however upgraded with a Smoothieboard and an E3Dv6. I've already reinforced the Y-axis rods with additional bearings to stop the rods from warping on direction changes, but that didn't help. The heatbed is heated via PID-controlled PWM, no bang-bang, so it shouldn't be the aluminium bed buckling, either. The last thing I'd be considering for blame would be one of the Z-axis sliding rods has minimal play. However based on this part, you can see the shifting when the layer starts (the print head goes to the right), and when it comes back, poo poo is aligned.  Any clues what that could be? Writing all this out and reinspecting the images, I'm almost willing to say it's overextrusion at this point (the blobs I guess). I do have Extra Restart Distance set to some value, maybe it's that? I sure hope not, because I kind of need it for M3 hole perimeters to stick on the first layer. :| Material is Colorfabb PLA/PHA, printing at 50mm/s, 210°C first layer, 200°C rest with cooling ramping from 16%-50% from second to fifth layer. --edit: I take it one remedy for not requiring the restart distance during first layer would be upping the first layer width by a lot? --edit: Also, any opinions on the dev branch of Slic3r? Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 21:18
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AlexDeGruven posted:My MP Mini Delta has arrived! You fucker, I'm jealous.
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Aug 3, 2017 22:29
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Built my first 3D printer yesterday, an Anycubic Kossel. After two test cubes to get the settings right, I present my first benchy: Seems pretty good quality after cleaning up the string. For a kit and the price, it seems relatively painless. £140 including two 1kg rolls of cheap PLA.
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Aug 3, 2017 22:30
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Dr Dozzy posted:Built my first 3D printer yesterday, an Anycubic Kossel. After two test cubes to get the settings right, I present my first benchy: I was hoping one would turn up, Im very tempted to pick one up a bit later in the year, the price is right around what my poor budget will stretch to (or i would get the cr-10) Hope you print a few more things to show us what it can do! Make anything seemed pretty pleased with the quality.
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Aug 3, 2017 22:33
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thegasman2000 posted:It works for joining prints. Punished props made a good video on YouTube about methods to attach 3D prints. I went searching out of curiosity and found this video, it's a colaboration between them and 3D Printing Nerd. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BstHc6FD7vQ
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Aug 3, 2017 23:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You fucker, I'm jealous. For $159 shipped its so loving good. I was backer #77 and got unit #71. Edit: Added first vase mode print to the gallery. AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 01:41
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See, the pricepoint and the novel print method make that thing an impulse purchase, easy.Shalhavet posted:I got the kit. They updated the store to say the lead time is 2-3 weeks now, looks like.  maybe I'll get my shipment notification soon
CloFan fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 02:14
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AlexDeGruven posted:For $159 shipped its so loving good. I was backer #77 and got unit #71. I'm backer 234 for the October batch.
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Aug 4, 2017 02:58
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Combat Pretzel posted:
Maybe my acceleration settings are too low. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 12:31
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In random 3d-printer related nonsense, the Original Prusa MK2 was used in this Cyanide and Happiness skit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMpSbDOreuA Skip to about 76 seconds where they actually start the 3d printing related part of the joke.
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Aug 4, 2017 14:38
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I think one of my PLA rolls has become waterlogged and started causing underextrusion somehow. Maybe through a jam? Is that a thing? The other alternative is that my cold end fan is insufficient now and I'm experiencing small jams. Or the retraction settings are off. But I just did like 70 hours of printing with those settings and different filament and that didn't happen, so I think that's unlikely. I did a few rounds of cold pulling with PETG anyway just in case.
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Aug 4, 2017 18:30
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tuyop posted:I think one of my PLA rolls has become waterlogged and started causing underextrusion somehow. Maybe through a jam? Is that a thing? post photos of the prints
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Aug 5, 2017 04:27
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Designed my first functional part in Onshape https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2471722 Pretty simple, but baby steps 
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Aug 7, 2017 03:38
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I'm looking to duplicate this amazing piece of art but roughly the size of a large coaster. I've modeled up some prototypes in F360 but the curves are too complex for my PC to handle. I will need to do it in sections I think , and put it together. It's a plan for a music box for my niece for Christmas Edit: I am a stupid dum dum head https://youtu.be/tqEVTfGqo8M Jestery fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 10:02
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Jestery posted:I'm looking to duplicate this amazing piece of art but roughly the size of a large coaster. Are there supposed to be images?
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Aug 7, 2017 14:49
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I decided that plexiglass is too expensive, so here's an enclosure I cobbled together from dowels and plastic sheeting:
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Aug 7, 2017 18:43
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You could always just put a plastic bucket over it. One of the $5 rectangular ones sold at Walmart, they even make transparent ones. EDIT: Put the lid on the table, the printer on the lid, then the bucket on the lid and snap it shut when printing.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:17
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I will have to look into enclosure for when I get my printer, considering I have a really stupid cat.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:51
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Kea posted:I will have to look into enclosure for when I get my printer, considering I have a really stupid cat. Sounds to me like the one problem will solve the other.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:54
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Yeah, I looked for clear totes but I couldn't find one that was big enough. Should be fine for smaller printers though.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:08
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BMan posted:Yeah, I looked for clear totes but I couldn't find one that was big enough. Should be fine for smaller printers though. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-58-Quart-Storage-Box-White-Available-in-Case-of-8-or-Single-Unit/10401038
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Aug 7, 2017 20:13
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Kea posted:Are there supposed to be images? Fixed https://youtu.be/tqEVTfGqo8M
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Aug 7, 2017 21:33
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Yeah that thing is going to be purely SLA printed, good luck.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah that thing is going to be purely SLA printed, good luck. No doubt SLA, but I think I might be able to approximate it, ill keep updating as I go.
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Aug 7, 2017 22:30
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Splode posted:post photos of the prints I will, but it turned out to be my retraction settings. I had set it to 5mm at 50mm/s so it was sucking hot filament into the cold end, which was clear after I inspected the prints more closely (prints without retraction were fine). I changed to 1 and 30mm/s and it's fine now. Still have terrible ringing from the drylin bearings on the y axis though. I bought some nicer bearings and rods to swap out this week. Oh well.
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Aug 8, 2017 06:45
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Beginner here, learning how to use Tinker CAD and 3D printing for the first time and I need help. I wan't to make this design but with changes I wan't it to resemble more of a NEO-GEO controller with just four buttons going across instead of six and the star and select buttons on the top. It also needs a totally different joystick. BUT I have the files for it in TinkerCAD now and it's not letting me ungroup the part to adjust where the buttons go for example. Am I forgetting to do something? Edit: THis is where the files came from https://learn.adafruit.com/arcade-bonnet-controller/3d-printing
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Aug 8, 2017 23:47
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BigRed0427 posted:Beginner here, learning how to use Tinker CAD and 3D printing for the first time and I need help. The model you're playing with is a rendered tessellated mesh, not a collection of shapes that can be manipulated. It's like trying to extract layers from a JPEG rendered in photoshop, once the stuff is exported, that data is lost unless you have the original file, in this case, a fusion 360 file. They posted that, and f360 is free, so give that a shot. It's a huge leap but fairly accessible if you have like 12 hours to spend on a few tutorials. tuyop fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Aug 9, 2017 |
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Aug 9, 2017 02:28
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tuyop posted:The model you're playing with is a rendered tessellated mesh, not a collection of shapes that can be manipulated. It's like trying to extract layers from a JPEG rendered in photoshop, once the stuff is exported, that data is lost unless you have the original file, in this case, a fusion 360 file. Thanks. That makes sense. Guess I'm making this myself. So most 3D CAD software uses Metric? So if a button or something says it's 29.5 on it's schematic, then the hole needs to be that big?
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Aug 9, 2017 02:40
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BigRed0427 posted:Thanks. That makes sense. Guess I'm making this myself. I think you can switch it, but metric is definitely the standard. And yes, you can use the ruler tool and type measurements into TinkerCAD. If you just need to change some things, it might be very fast and easy to load the f360 file and change those objects using the timeline. It's all parametric, so a change to a body propagates throughout the model in a predictable and logical way.
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Aug 9, 2017 02:58
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Jestery posted:I read somewhere there is a dual y-axis screw version coming; honestly with what I've read and seen, I can deal with it. 3d printer youtuber tier list: s+: Thomas Sanlanderer (fillaween is good) A: MakersMuse (i like his fusion 360 videos and he and thomas have both made full vids asking people to shut the gently caress UP about anet a8, etc) c: 3d printing nerd (informative but talks at 3/4 speed and has bad hair, and too many vids about that thing he just printed hey look at it wow) f: Print That Thing (this dude was supposed to come by sometime to do a vlog on my friends 3d printing company but I guess he bailed)
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Aug 9, 2017 14:31
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moron izzard posted:3d printer youtuber tier list: h: 3D Printing Professor (way too full of himself and half the poo poo he says rings wrong by my experience in 3d printing, and he's too much a fan of old Makerbot printers) EDIT: Yeah, Maker's Muse publishes some actually informative videos. I just haven't liked him much on a personal level because of the brony poo poo.
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Aug 9, 2017 15:35
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BigRed0427 posted:Thanks. That makes sense. Guess I'm making this myself. Bigger actually. It's very rare you'll print something perfectly to size so you generally want a hole to be slightly bigger or the pin to the slightly smaller. The exact size difference is generally dependent on your printer and slicer settings and just found through printing some parts and seeing how well they fit.
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Aug 9, 2017 15:52
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Luminaflare posted:Bigger actually. It's very rare you'll print something perfectly to size so you generally want a hole to be slightly bigger or the pin to the slightly smaller. The exact size difference is generally dependent on your printer and slicer settings and just found through printing some parts and seeing how well they fit. Filament type also effects this. ABS shrinks a lot more than PLA as it cools, for example.
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Aug 9, 2017 16:02
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Kea posted:I was hoping one would turn up, Im very tempted to pick one up a bit later in the year, the price is right around what my poor budget will stretch to (or i would get the cr-10) Update on this printer (Anycubic Kossel): Stock boden tube is garbage, so order a new Teflon one before you build it. I would look into getting an autobed levelling sensor after a while, unless you are v.comfortable with trial and error manual levelling before each print session. Takes me around 10-15 minutes presently through a mixture of Pronterface gcode and moving the z axis via the printer controls. Not liking the build surface supplied too much, but that may be me not getting settings right, fused PLA to it to the point of no return. Taken it off and revelled on the glass, using hairspray to help adhesion. I must say I love getting shiny surfaces on my parts. So far only been printing parts for the printer to make it look ~pretty~ although the usb and power cover is a must, as the latest version of the printer just has a small board mount that doesn't prevent you accidentally touching the board with the DC power plug. (You should really use the switch to turn off before plugging in though). Currently waiting for upgrade guides from Design Prototype Test. The guides he has produced so far have been informative. I don't think the linear rails are really necessary though; if your cartridges are that loose as his I'd check the screws or buy/print new ones.
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Aug 9, 2017 16:04
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