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B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

I've always found the capacitance-based stud finders to work pretty well in drywall. They're not perfect, but I usually redo the reading at different heights to confirm.

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lwoodio
Apr 4, 2008

I've had a Franklin Prosensor for a couple years and I don't think I've ever missed a stud. I don't trust the magnetic finders because the drywall guy might have missed the stud depending on how many beers in he was.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

DreadLlama posted:

Pry loose your floor molding and drill a couple <3/32" holes in the wall. You'll know when you hit a stud. Draw a vertical line with a bubble level up from your hole. Put the floor molding back.

Must be nice to live somewhere where the floor molding has not been painted to the wall... so that removing it pulls off big chunks of paint, even after it's been cut.

uwaeve
Oct 21, 2010



focus this time so i don't have to keep telling you idiots what happened
Lipstick Apathy
You're looking for neodymium magnets, little silver disks they sell at Home Depot or whatever. Way better than electronic stud finders for me.

Raised by Hamsters
Sep 16, 2007

and hopped up on bagels

good jovi posted:

A lot of things should be, but this has been my goto stud finding method in every house I've ever lived in and it's never failed. Give it a try, you'll be surprised how much stands out.

Related, flashlight against the wall is actually my technique for finishing drywall, especially blending the edge of a patch area.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Okay:
Plaster: it's drywall, we just call everything plaster here.
Flashlight: no, there are no visible screws.
Tapping the wall: doesn't work, no notable sound difference detected.
Baseboard: I don't fancy wrecking the wall just to see where the studs are but thanks.

I'm going to order the top rated electronic and magnetic finders off Amazon and report back. Good knows I'll get enough use out of whichever one works.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

cakesmith handyman posted:

Okay:
Plaster: it's drywall, we just call everything plaster here.
Flashlight: no, there are no visible screws.
Tapping the wall: doesn't work, no notable sound difference detected.
Baseboard: I don't fancy wrecking the wall just to see where the studs are but thanks.

I'm going to order the top rated electronic and magnetic finders off Amazon and report back. Good knows I'll get enough use out of whichever one works.

Get this $200 one and let me know how it works :D
https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2016/8/17/12516346/wallabot-diy-stud-finder-3d-imaging

Brute Squad
Dec 20, 2006

Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human race

I'd like to pick up a bandsaw for some projects, but I don't have the space for a full-sized one. Are the bench top ones any good?

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

On that same line, how critical is a proper dust collection system (or, any collection at all) for a lightly used band saw?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I would say moderately to very, depending on the size of the saw and what you're cutting. They tend to make dust instead of chips, and that can be a problem if they're producing a lot of it and it's a fine-dust material. That being said, a small DC system doesn't have to be expensive.

coathat
May 21, 2007

Benchtop bandsaws aren't that great but they're way better than not having one

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



DreadLlama posted:

An auger will be used to rough out the holes and I can probably square up the top portion long axis' of the mortises with a skilsaw. The chisel's job will be to clean out the deeper portions of the mortises. To be honest I'd rather use power tools all the way, but a chisel is cheaper than a new router + upspiral bit, which still wouldn't cut a square hole.



Dude a router with fence and spiral bit would be so much faster, you can even cheat on squaring the corners with a chisel, although that would take a quick minute

HarmB
Jun 19, 2006



If you need a bandsaw for metal, but don't have the space, they make stands for the portable bandsaws made by Milwaukee, et al. They work out really well, and are fairly compact. The bandsaws themselves are pretty powerful, and should get you what you're looking for.

Portaband Table

Hocus Pocus
Sep 7, 2011

I'm an electrician in Australia, and pretty much everyone I know uses a rare earth magnet over any kind of electronic stud finding gadget. Granted, most of what I personally do is in the commercial sector where steel framework is the norm, but when I do come across conventional timber stud wall I still find that a rare earth magnet will stick to a single screw in the wall.

The ones I buy come in a little plastic cylinder which are about the size of a film canister. They are an absolute bastard to carry around. Toss them in your toolbag and next time you pull it out it'll drag half your poo poo with it. Stick it on a tape loop on your toolbelt and it'll jump onto the first metal doorframe you walk through.

uwaeve
Oct 21, 2010



focus this time so i don't have to keep telling you idiots what happened
Lipstick Apathy
So I'm redoing the decking and spent a couple days just amateuring it up, then my buddy comes over with a simple suspenders tool belt. I watched him and realized gently caress me, I've probably spent two or so hours, cumulatively over three days just walking back and forth to pick up and set poo poo down like an absolute savage. The best I had was a nail pouch for my screws which I thought was pretty pro.

What I'm saying is get a tool belt people. I got an electricians one with suspenders that holds literally everything I need (not my entire toolbox but everything for one job).

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
I use mine even for dumb poo poo like hanging pictures, just because I can keep everything on me and it's goddamn fantastic.

And because I'm a fat goon, finally adding suspenders to it was like night and day. Now I don't have 10 lbs of tools and hardware trying to pull my pants down every time I wear the thing.

coathat
May 21, 2007

Finally ryobi is coming out with a cordless pin nailer! https://toolcraze.net/ryobi-p318-18v-airstrike-23-gauge-pin-nailer/

Raised by Hamsters
Sep 16, 2007

and hopped up on bagels

uwaeve posted:

So I'm redoing the decking and spent a couple days just amateuring it up, then my buddy comes over with a simple suspenders tool belt. I watched him and realized gently caress me, I've probably spent two or so hours, cumulatively over three days just walking back and forth to pick up and set poo poo down like an absolute savage. The best I had was a nail pouch for my screws which I thought was pretty pro.

What I'm saying is get a tool belt people. I got an electricians one with suspenders that holds literally everything I need (not my entire toolbox but everything for one job).

I just learned this lesson this spring, and I felt like a giant idiot for not knowing it before. Such a time saver.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
Found this in a second hand store today. Wanted to get it, but couldn't figure out where the gently caress the battery plugs in.

nmfree
Aug 15, 2001

The Greater Goon: Breaking Hearts and Chains since 2006

Slugworth posted:

Found this in a second hand store today. Wanted to get it, but couldn't figure out where the gently caress the battery plugs in.
"The Silver Cloud" would be a good name for a Mel Tormé tribute band.

ionn
Jan 23, 2004

Din morsa.
Grimey Drawer
I think it's some kind of portable mini winch with quick release. Can also be used to fish out stuff like dropped tools.

Maksimus54
Jan 5, 2011
Need some advice, I've got a free to me 14" imported bandsaw. The name is Stellar Industries but I think it's a Delta knockoff from what I can tell. The original blade guide holder and guide itself are pot metal and have fallen apart. Am I crazy to be shopping for a Carter Products ball bearing guide set? Or do I settle on the cheapo $60 ebay kit and hope it works?

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Finally went to my dad's barn and dug out my grandfather's old air compressor. I've gotten it home, now I just have to figure out what model it is, find parts, and restore it. The pump works fine, but the motor wiring is shot. I'm going to crack it open, and see what it needs. Then my plan is to blast all the paint off the tank and repaint it, rebuild the valves, and set it up for another lifetime of work.




MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

EvilBeard posted:

Then my plan is to blast all the paint off the tank and repaint it, rebuild the valves, and set it up for another lifetime of work.

Please for the love of God do not re-use rusty pressure vessels. Buy a new tank. :cripes:

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

MRC48B posted:

Please for the love of God do not re-use rusty pressure vessels. Buy a new tank. :cripes:

The tank isn't rusty. I even looked inside with my inspection camera, and it looks good. I don't see any rust or wear. The old paint is just flaking off and it looks lovely. I just want to knock off the paint off while it's all apart and make it look nice before I mount it to the floor and whatnot.

EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Aug 8, 2017

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

EvilBeard posted:

The tank isn't rusty. I even looked inside with my inspection camera, and it looks good. I don't see any rust or wear. The old paint is just flaking off and it looks lovely. I just want to knock off the paint off while it's all apart and make it look nice before I mount it to the floor and whatnot.

Get it hydro tested then. Better to spend the $50 or whatever to know it's still good vs. having it come apart like the world's sharpest m80.

Novo
May 13, 2003

Stercorem pro cerebro habes
Soiled Meat

Dumb Lowtax posted:

How can I get something that's between that in power? Light-duty enough to NOT need a hose, so as to walk around indoors and spray messes away with, but heavy-duty enough to not melt apart if I decide the current mess demands the bottle be filled up with something that would destroy the seals of the first two bottles, like hot bleach or mineral spirits or pressurized boiling suds?

Have you considered a steam cleaner? You can't put anything other than water in them but the high temperature steam will disinfect and loosen up dirt and grime so it can be wiped off. They come in different sizes and don't require a hose.

Mr. Apollo
Nov 8, 2000

Anyone know where I could get a horizontal drill stand? I replaced some closet doors and had to trim them to fit; because of that the holes for the mounting hardware at the top and bottom of the doors aren't in the right spots. I filled the holes with dowels but I need to drill new ones.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Mr. Apollo posted:

Anyone know where I could get a horizontal drill stand? I replaced some closet doors and had to trim them to fit; because of that the holes for the mounting hardware at the top and bottom of the doors aren't in the right spots. I filled the holes with dowels but I need to drill new ones.

On door or the jamb? They make hinge jig kits.

Also, never underestimate a man's need for the musical fruit:

https://i.imgur.com/hwBYOqW.gifv

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



kid sinister posted:

On door or the jamb? They make hinge jig kits.

Also, never underestimate a man's need for the musical fruit:

https://i.imgur.com/hwBYOqW.gifv

Sounds to me like he's talking about bi-fold doors, which have dowel-size holes in yon tops and bottoms. In which case, he might pick up a dowel jig.

Beancessity is the mother of all infartion. edit- we can now list cordless drills on Craigslist as multi-purpose kitchen appliances for the little lady, or man, not judging, in the kitchen

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Mr. Apollo posted:

Anyone know where I could get a horizontal drill stand? I replaced some closet doors and had to trim them to fit; because of that the holes for the mounting hardware at the top and bottom of the doors aren't in the right spots. I filled the holes with dowels but I need to drill new ones.

I don't know exactly what you're trying to do to be honest, but if you just need holes aligned at 90' to the surface try a drill guide

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XRSP7SP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_xWjKzbFN40GE3

Mr. Apollo
Nov 8, 2000

cakesmith handyman posted:

I don't know exactly what you're trying to do to be honest, but if you just need holes aligned at 90' to the surface try a drill guide

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XRSP7SP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_xWjKzbFN40GE3
Thanks. :)



Basically I have a set of doors like that but they were too wide and tall so I had to trim them down a bit. Doing that moved the position of the mounting holes for the hardware relative to the edge of the door so I need to drill new holes on the top and bottom edge of the door.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Those are bi-folds, so if you have access to any kind of drill press or something that drills straight, you could make a jig out of scrap 2x with perpendicular hole in it. Those doors are like 1 1/8" thick or so.

edit- keep in mind that those things are flimsy as heck, and if you've trimmed any off the top or bottom, it'll be touch and go having enough meat inside those pieces of basically veneered masonite.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
I've legit used expanding foam or scrap wood to reinforce them. Are yours hollow inside?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Most "hollow" doors aren't actually hollow, at least not recently. These days they like to put in this cardboard honeycomb thingy.

spider wisdom
Nov 4, 2011

og data bandit
Dear diary — this week I learned all about the breaker bar.

I'd been putting off changing the differential fluid in my car for a good while, and every turn I made growled as a painful reminder. This past weekend I decided enough was enough and Amazoned some stuff — nitrile gloves, safety specs, a pan, crush washers, the works. And I assumed my cheapo 3/8" socket wrench would be fine to get the plugs loose. How wrong I was.

For 45 minutes I struggled under my Element, trying to knock those 2 plugs loose. Nothing doing. I picked a rotten day to attempt it, too — extremely humid and almost a hundred degrees in the shade. I spat on the ground, reminded myself I'm only in this miserably hot state for another year, and tossed the baby wrench back in its cheap plastic snap-coffin. Off to youtube.

3 minutes later, I discovered the breaker bar. A long handle of steel with a pivoting square head. Made perfect sense, too. More torque = better chance of knocking a frozen plug loose, and less work in the end, too. I'd never overnighted anything to myself before, but I found a nice 11-incher and said what the hell. Sort of a unitasker, unfortunately; so it goes.

It arrived today and it's about a solid pound. Right away I knew those plugs were coming off immediately. And they did. Everything else was cake. Next on the list: a Milwaukee sawzall and discovering a place to stash all this poo poo in my apartment.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Metal Geir Skogul posted:

I've legit used expanding foam or scrap wood to reinforce them. Are yours hollow inside?

A piece of wood yeah, I've done that. I dont think the hardware is going to seat in foam at all.


kid sinister posted:

Most "hollow" doors aren't actually hollow, at least not recently. These days they like to put in this cardboard honeycomb thingy.

They've been doing it like that for 40-50 years, and if you count cardboard spacers as something you can nest a pivot post in, well no. That still counts as hollow in my book.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

spider wisdom posted:

Dear diary — this week I learned all about the breaker bar.

I'd been putting off changing the differential fluid in my car for a good while, and every turn I made growled as a painful reminder. This past weekend I decided enough was enough and Amazoned some stuff — nitrile gloves, safety specs, a pan, crush washers, the works. And I assumed my cheapo 3/8" socket wrench would be fine to get the plugs loose. How wrong I was.

For 45 minutes I struggled under my Element, trying to knock those 2 plugs loose. Nothing doing. I picked a rotten day to attempt it, too — extremely humid and almost a hundred degrees in the shade. I spat on the ground, reminded myself I'm only in this miserably hot state for another year, and tossed the baby wrench back in its cheap plastic snap-coffin. Off to youtube.

3 minutes later, I discovered the breaker bar. A long handle of steel with a pivoting square head. Made perfect sense, too. More torque = better chance of knocking a frozen plug loose, and less work in the end, too. I'd never overnighted anything to myself before, but I found a nice 11-incher and said what the hell. Sort of a unitasker, unfortunately; so it goes.

It arrived today and it's about a solid pound. Right away I knew those plugs were coming off immediately. And they did. Everything else was cake. Next on the list: a Milwaukee sawzall and discovering a place to stash all this poo poo in my apartment.

Now you need a cheater bar to combine with the breaker bar

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

CarForumPoster posted:

Now you need a cheater bar to combine with the breaker bar

I use the top half of the handle of my floor jack.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
I've never had a breaker bar under 18 inches. Didn't even know they made them that small. The point is to break stuff loose, and my 1/2" drive ratchet is like 10.

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