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IOwnCalculus posted:Not sure exactly how thick, but it is the "frame rail": Just looking at the holes in the frame rail it looks decently thick I guess. Can you pay someone 100 bucks to weld them on? If you do all the prep yourself I bet you could get an independent shop (not 4wd specific) to do it up for a little cash. I guess I just think if they are supposed to be smashing against rocks and surviving, welded > nutsert > screws. Or, you could install the nutserts then drive to a shop and just ask them to tack each of the nutserts. Guy makes 20$ in 10 minutes, you can remove if you don't like them... could be an option. Nutserts just suck to install imo especially since it looks like you will have to drill out the frame rail a bunch first. Good excuse to buy a welder?
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Aug 2, 2017 18:05
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Well crud. Got a 04 WJ 4.0 that is misfiring badly and pulled the codes. p0205 stored p0305 pending Measured ohms on the injector and the resistance looks good. Guess next step is picking up a noid kit to verify harness? Will the average $20 from autozone work? Doesn't specify Chrysler.
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Aug 3, 2017 23:23
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C-Bangin' it 
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Finally fixing the drat XJ fender flare bracket's broken studs for good. Just cut off the bad ones with a dremel and drilled them out, then replaced with a 1/4-20 1" bolt that I'm JB welding onto the bracket. Here's hoping I don't lose the drat fender flare at highway speed for a third time. I can't believe no one makes a cheap replacement bracket for these anymore.
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Aug 4, 2017 01:23
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mod sassinator posted:Finally fixing the drat XJ fender flare bracket's broken studs for good. Just cut off the bad ones with a dremel and drilled them out, then replaced with a 1/4-20 1" bolt that I'm JB welding onto the bracket. Here's hoping I don't lose the drat fender flare at highway speed for a third time. I can't believe no one makes a cheap replacement bracket for these anymore. Pretty sure Crown does? They're like $7 per section (3 sections per flare). Not terribly expensive but certainly more $ than a couple bolts. Was looking at them recently, sadly definitely no one makes them for rear flares on an MJ. I'll be doing the same thing as you shortly! 
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Aug 4, 2017 05:04
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:Pretty sure Crown does? They're like $7 per section (3 sections per flare). Not terribly expensive but certainly more $ than a couple bolts. Was looking at them recently, sadly definitely no one makes them for rear flares on an MJ. I'll be doing the same thing as you shortly! It's a mess in the research I did. I have a 97+ and couldn't find much out there (the 97+ is just a 2 part retainer on the fronts). There are some Mopar parts out there but $40 each and you need 2x per side. I'm going to try the cheapo bolt fix first before dropping $80.
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Aug 4, 2017 05:07
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mod sassinator posted:It's a mess in the research I did. I have a 97+ and couldn't find much out there (the 97+ is just a 2 part retainer on the fronts). There are some Mopar parts out there but $40 each and you need 2x per side. I'm going to try the cheapo bolt fix first before dropping $80. Oh yeah duh I forgot that 97+ XJ's existed for a minute there 
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Aug 4, 2017 16:05
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I replaced the radiator on my TJ almost 3 years ago - a few weeks ago I started smelling coolant when I'd come to a stop. I looked under the hood and noticed some wetness around the radiator cap - replaced it with a new cap and no more leak from the cap. Now there's a leak coming from somewhere else and dripping down (very slow, almost can't tell) on the driver side of the radiator. I assume the cap wasn't holding pressure, and now that there's a new cap there's some other place on the radiator giving up the ghost. Is 3 years and ~40,000 miles a long time for a plastic tanked radiator? Doesn't seem like it  Wondering if I should switch to a full metal radiator, or just throw another stocker in there. I guess it'll depend on if this one is warrantied at O'Reilly.nm - lifetime warranty - new plastic it is! Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 16:15
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Colostomy Bag posted:Well crud. To follow up on this I did a noid test on the injector and it blinked. Whew I thought, harness/PCM good. So replace injector. Not a bad job. Clear codes, start jeep let it run for oh, 10-15 minutes in the driveway. Started stumbling and MIL came on. Yanked codes, this time P0205 and P0300 are stored. WTF?!? So reset PCM, let it idle a while for it to relearn. Took it for a 5 mile drive. Seems fine. But from reading up on it...I need more than my fingers crossed.
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Aug 4, 2017 20:10
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Before you get too crazy, check your voltage/alternator output. Always good to sanity check whenever you have an oddball pcm/electrical issue, could be intermittent bad voltage. Although, could have been exactly what you last suspected, or the pcm just needed to be reseated.
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Aug 4, 2017 23:28
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Could be an intermittent wire break in the harness, too. I see those occasionally on XJs now, haven't seen it on a WJ yet but it will happen eventually. Try shaking and bending the harness where it jumps from the body to the engine, not sure where that is on WJs but it's at the back of the head over the valve cover on XJs.
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Aug 5, 2017 15:22
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I went over a speedbump with a bit of vigor last night and heard a big clunk from the rear of my TJ. loving rear shock bolt has sheared of and the top end of the shock is now popped out and flopping about  I went wheeling last weekend so I'm guessing thats when the damage happened. Not sure if I'm going to try and extract it myself or just take it to a shop. I generally suck at using extractors so I'm leaning towards paying someone to do it so I don't mess it up more.
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Aug 5, 2017 15:34
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I recently changed all the oils in my YJ. I went back and forth about 10w30 synthetic motor oil vs. 75w90 GL-4 gear oil for the tranny (AX-15). Though more expensive and having to go through Amazon rather than a local store, the Redline MT-90 I put in does actually feel noticeably better. The oil I drained out looked and smelled like 10w30 motor oil to both myself and a buddy. E: smelled like *not* gear oil. Probably someone out there can smell the difference in oil weights and brands but it isn't me. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Aug 5, 2017 |
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Aug 5, 2017 21:43
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mashed_penguin posted:I went over a speedbump with a bit of vigor last night and heard a big clunk from the rear of my TJ. loving rear shock bolt has sheared of and the top end of the shock is now popped out and flopping about Dont bother extracting it if you have an air hammer/chisel and wanting to fix it cheap. You can pull off the rear wheel well liner and just barely get the air hammer in to blast the welded nut off. Then you can just through-bolt the shocks on. I did this on my jeep and it was a little frustrating but not too bad. I guess it would be worth trying to extract it yourself before wrecking the nut though. Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Aug 5, 2017 |
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Aug 5, 2017 22:26
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Can't remember if it was here or in my thread that I last brought up the ongoing seep from my 247 TC: I finally got under there and replaced the plug tonight. Sure enough, there was a trace of RTV on the old one, so the PO's shop must have been in there before trying to fix it. Glad I bought a new one instead of just trying to slap a fresh coat of RTV on it, the original rubber had shrunk quite a bit and just wasn't putting enough tension on anything to stay dry. New one was all of $8 anyway. On the plus side, the 31s mean I can actually slide myself under the Jeep pretty easily now without having to jack it up.
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Aug 6, 2017 04:36
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This guy might want to do a trade for my 1970 Volvo 164. Am I completely stupid to consider trading for something so old and slow, or are these still pretty easy to work on? https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/d/1948-cj2-willys-jeep/6244627593.html The "newer motor" thing is interesting. I'm a big fan of keeping the original engine, but if he's changed engines (and maybe transmissions) it might be able to go above 40, which would make it useful for getting out to my deer hunting unit and other off-road areas.
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Aug 6, 2017 22:45
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Pham Nuwen posted:This guy might want to do a trade for my 1970 Volvo 164. Am I completely stupid to consider trading for something so old and slow, or are these still pretty easy to work on? Well, there's no pictures underhood, but I think there are a lot of similarities between the F-head and the OHV, so maybe that was the upgrade. The 2A is way more attractive than the 3B, so I'd consider it if it's the way you want it. I'm kind of astonished that a flatty in rough condition is that expensive, though, so your volvo might be a better value if it's nice
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Aug 7, 2017 00:28
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The roll cage looks like someone welded a jungle gym on top but I'd definitely trade it for my old volvo if I had one!
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Aug 7, 2017 03:06
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kastein posted:Could be an intermittent wire break in the harness, too. I see those occasionally on XJs now, haven't seen it on a WJ yet but it will happen eventually. Try shaking and bending the harness where it jumps from the body to the engine, not sure where that is on WJs but it's at the back of the head over the valve cover on XJs. Yep. The bend is right there. And I futzed with it a little thinking that might be an issue after the p0205 showed up again. So after all that poo poo I said and did...I went on kind of a 6 mile loop test and all was fine. Handed it off to my daughter and of course on her way to work it gets the P0205 again. No misfire code and it runs fine. So after that just got done changing the plugs. Had champions in it and they were probably 75% worn. Coil pack looked fine, no arcing. So either leaning towards a intermittent short in the the harness depending on engine temp or perhaps the PCM is going out or whatever crazy PCM algorithms are programmed into the PCM. And Chrysler can go screw themselves with the red safety tabs. After my rant with that, the top of the valve cover is filthy with oil. Apparently these aren't standard PCV but some CCV that are a PITA to R&R?
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Aug 7, 2017 16:52
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Pham Nuwen posted:This guy might want to do a trade for my 1970 Volvo 164. Am I completely stupid to consider trading for something so old and slow, or are these still pretty easy to work on? Guess he sold it today. I was supposed to go see it this evening. Oh well.
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Aug 7, 2017 20:08
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Well hell I'll consider it done. Latest was the PCV/CCV mess and how they leak all over the valve cover. Hardest one to find is the rear elbow. Napa has it but is listed for front. No biggie, the grommets are what are required and I was able to pop the valves out without destroying them. In the mean time beat the hell out of the WJ on the interstate and some traffic, no MIL...here's hoping. Anyone else notify a parts supplier that their listing is wrong?
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Aug 7, 2017 21:15
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Colostomy Bag posted:And Chrysler can go screw themselves with the red safety tabs. They're actually really nice. In fact one of my favorite automotive connectors. I made this video for someone on a Facebook group a while ago but never posted it here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8EUEYNaIZQ
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Aug 8, 2017 17:13
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With all of the grit that collects in them, those fuckers are a nightmare to disconnect in AZ.
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Aug 8, 2017 17:31
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kastein posted:They're actually really nice. In fact one of my favorite automotive connectors. I made this video for someone on a Facebook group a while ago but never posted it here. Well, I guess they would be cool if I wanted to launch the Jeep into orbit on top of a Saturn V rocket. But for day-to-day use I find them overkill especially when you can't see the connector.
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Aug 8, 2017 18:20
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Colostomy Bag posted:Well, I guess they would be cool if I wanted to launch the Jeep into orbit on top of a Saturn V rocket. But for day-to-day use I find them overkill especially when you can't see the connector. To be fair the average jeep has a vibration level approaching that of a Saturn V rocket.
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Aug 8, 2017 18:22
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mashed_penguin posted:To be fair the average jeep has a vibration level approaching that of a Saturn V rocket. Haha can confirm. I tightened a loose stabilizer end link bolt on my XJ a few months ago and it's already worked itself loose again. Time to find some lock washers.
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Aug 8, 2017 18:47
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mashed_penguin posted:To be fair the average jeep has a vibration level approaching that of a Saturn V rocket. Fair point and thanks for the chuckle. Needed one today.
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Aug 9, 2017 02:56
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Yeah whoever ordered mine definitely checked the NVH box on the build sheet. They're a little annoying when packed with dirt but once I realized you don't have to take the red tab out completely life got way easier. Click tab, push connector together very firmly, push release down very firmly, pull apart while wiggling, repeat a few times if needed to get it to come undone. Once I've gotten one open for the first time in 15 years they usually aren't a problem the next time.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:31
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This morning I'm drooling over a buddys YJ that's for sale. Tell me that $3000 is too much to pay for a 1990 YJ with 2.5 motor and Dana 35 rear end. Someone tell me so that I can sleep tonight
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Aug 9, 2017 17:13
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Yeah, that's way too much. He should pay you to haul it to the scrap yard.
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Aug 9, 2017 17:52
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Do not buy a 4 cylinder ever. It comes up time and time again in this thread and the advice is always the same. It gets just as bad mileage as the 6 cylinder but has no power at all. Seriously, they can barely drive on the freeway or make it up hills. For $3k you can buy a really nice later model year XJ with the 4 liter and 4wd.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:11
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mod sassinator posted:For $3k you can buy a really nice later model year XJ with the 4 liter and 4wd. I have wanted a 99' XJ for years, but everything in loving Colorado that is decent is 5k-ish.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:36
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Thanks guys, that helped 
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Aug 9, 2017 18:37
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Buy it. And immediately LS swap it.
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Aug 9, 2017 19:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:Buy it. This. A 4cyl Dakota AX15 will bolt to an unloved Impala SS ls4, BTW... Not that I know what clutch setup, starter, motor mounts, or anything else will work.
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Aug 9, 2017 21:44
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Where are you guys seeing later YJs that are worth a poo poo for under 3k? If it's in good condition at all it's a steal around here, even for a 4cyl. I see shells selling for 3k.
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Aug 10, 2017 01:12
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I feel like it's a fair price for here in San Diego, just too many negatives to be worth it to me Dana 35 2.5 motor Leaf springs Square headlights
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Aug 10, 2017 02:55
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Astonishing Wang posted:I feel like it's a fair price for here in San Diego, just too many negatives to be worth it to me I just want to note my objection to the notion that leaf springs and square headlights are negatives  E: And listed along side the godawful 2.5 and D35.
THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 20:39
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noted.
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Aug 10, 2017 21:20
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Kim Jong Astonishing cannot comprehend square headlights, and hates freedom. Sad! don't buy the 2.5
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Aug 11, 2017 09:27
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| # ? May 18, 2024 01:56 |
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 Slider time!
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Aug 12, 2017 03:25
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