Spazz posted:

After riding the struggle bus for 6 months I'm calling it quits with this table saw. I've tried to realign the fence, grind the arbor washer flat, reinforce the fence, rebuild the fence, and I'm still not getting straight rips. It's becoming a safety issue since I had a case of kickback as I was ripping a 2x6.

I'm looking at options but they are all getting more and more expensive so I'm thinking of just picking up a Grizzly G0771Z and taking my old one to the scrap yard. The Grizzly is in my budget and will work well in my garage shop.

If anybody has recommendations before I buy the Grizzly they are welcome, either a different one to buy or options for unfucking my current saw. I'm just sick of the road blocks, safety issues, and general frustration.

Spazz posted:

After riding the struggle bus for 6 months I'm calling it quits with this table saw. I've tried to realign the fence, grind the arbor washer flat, reinforce the fence, rebuild the fence, and I'm still not getting straight rips. It's becoming a safety issue since I had a case of kickback as I was ripping a 2x6.

I'm looking at options but they are all getting more and more expensive so I'm thinking of just picking up a Grizzly G0771Z and taking my old one to the scrap yard. The Grizzly is in my budget and will work well in my garage shop.

If anybody has recommendations before I buy the Grizzly they are welcome, either a different one to buy or options for unfucking my current saw. I'm just sick of the road blocks, safety issues, and general frustration.

Spazz posted:

After riding the struggle bus for 6 months I'm calling it quits with this table saw. I've tried to realign the fence, grind the arbor washer flat, reinforce the fence, rebuild the fence, and I'm still not getting straight rips. It's becoming a safety issue since I had a case of kickback as I was ripping a 2x6.

I'm looking at options but they are all getting more and more expensive so I'm thinking of just picking up a Grizzly G0771Z and taking my old one to the scrap yard. The Grizzly is in my budget and will work well in my garage shop.

If anybody has recommendations before I buy the Grizzly they are welcome, either a different one to buy or options for unfucking my current saw. I'm just sick of the road blocks, safety issues, and general frustration.

His Divine Shadow posted:

Oh yeah is anyone here good with sound dampening design?

I'm slowly, slowly working on my bigass dust collector that I started in like 2015, I hauled it into place next to the pentz cyclone I also made. The DC sits on the floor because I lack the ceiling height and also the strength and/or equipment to lift this motor above my head, it's like 40-50kg. My next step is to make a filter box that the impeller will vent into. The idea is a simple box with two large filters on it, and one large blast gate that opens up to the outside. That way I can eject the majority of the air outside during summer, or back into the shop during winter, I could even eject some air and return some by varying how open I make the blast gate.

Anyway this DC is quite loud and I am thinking of the neighbors. So I want to suppress it, I am thinking if I could dress up the inside of the filter box like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd2nhNf9Tp8

Alternatively I could make one of these, but it would take up more space, being able to use the filter box as a muffler at the same time would be more space friendly.
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Muffler.cfm

Mr Executive posted:

Mr Executive posted:

A while ago I was in here asking for advice on hanging a floating mantel on a brick fireplace. I think I pushed the limits of what a French cleat can/should do, but ultimately this turned out exactly how I wanted and better than I expected.

Background: here's a crappy picture of what I'm working with underneath the thin-brick veneer (cement board not installed yet) on my fireplace.



My plan: laminate (6) red oak 1x6s together with a void in the back to recess a French cleat. I left the top two boards whole, then used a jigsaw to cut some chunks out of boards 3-5.



All glued up and edges softened with a new router



Glueing the upper part of the cleat inside the mantel.



Attaching the cleat to the wall: I had a nagging thought in my head this whole time that this was going to sink the project. In order for the cleat to actually recess into the mantel, the flat part that touches the wall was only ~3/4" tall. There's barely any surface area to keep the cleat from twisting/pulling off the wall. This was also being mounted on an uneven brick surface with a lack of studs to drill into. I ended up putting some large fender washers between the cleat and brick to provide somewhat of a flatter surface. This also pulled the cleat out from the wall slightly, which helped the mantel slide down further/more secure on the cleat. The outer 2 lag screws on each side were able to catch those wood studs. Throughout the middle I used some Tapcon concrete anchors to hopefully provide a little support gripping onto the mortar and cement board. As it turns out, my mounting location was right in line with the horizontal steel stud in my first picture, so ultimately I was able to get pretty solid connections across the board.



The fireplace is slightly bowed in the middle, so it took a little patience to get it situated. Once on, though, this thing locked into place and is rock solid. It should be fairly easy to take off, if needed, with a few taps from a mallet. It doesn't droop down in the front or anything and the only permanent "damage" to the fireplace is completely within a single grout line. I'm pumped.

Tev posted:

That looks really nice man. Well done.

cakesmith handyman posted:

Real good solution there, thanks for the detailed pictures.

Spazz posted:

Thanks for the recommendations. I got this thing along with a whole shop lot of other tools for $650, negotiated down from $1k due to working conditions. I've seen the exact same model for $100 used about 45 minutes away, which I almost picked up for parts and the motor.

My current table saw is an American Machine and Tool 4571 with a 18amp 1.5hp single phase motor. When I picked it up for the first time it was covered in surface rust, the lift barely moved due to gunk, and it took several evenings with WD-40, oil, and scouring pads to clean up the rust.

The fence is a lightweight and aluminum, but has nothing to reinforce it along the pathway. It only locks on the far end through tension, and the problem is that it's very easy to lock out of alignment. I've probably put 20-30 hours cumulatively into fixing this thing up and getting it aligned right, which is far more than I would have tolerated for any other tool.

Here's all the poo poo I've done. Ahead of this I had completely disassembled the entire lift, tilt, and trunnion to remove rust buildup. I swapped all the bearings that did not spin freely and oiled/waxed all parts to prevent rust, along with some white lithium grease for the worm gears that control the lift/tilt.

- Cleaned fence rails of all gunk, oiled, and waxed so it slides smoothly and without resistance.
- Fine tuned tension screw on locking end which adjusts the lever that locks in place on the far end.
- Confirming the original blade is properly aligned.
- Replaced with a Freud Fusion 10T blade, which may be hosed from crooked rips.
- Reinforced the aluminum fence with hardwood.
- Reinforced on BOTH sides with hardwood and UMHW since things weren't sliding afterwards.
- Ground the arbor washers on both side to ensure they are flat (followed Mathias Wandell's guide.

The only way I have gotten a perfectly straight rip is when I spend the time setting up the fence just right by gently tapping it into being square, and I don't have the patience to continue dealing with that kind of finicky tool when safety is at risk. Kickback is always going to be an risk, but with a good riving knife and square fence it's lesser and I won't have as much frustration.

For what it's worth, when I say "take it to the scrap yard", I mean harvest as much usable stuff from the underside as possible and take the rest to the scrap yard for some change. The motor, pulley, vbelt, lift, switch, etc. are all usable in other projects or will be shelved until I have a need for them.

Given that I've put in all this time and my next steps are becoming more expensive or time consuming, I'm ready to call it a day and get the Grizzly. I'll tear down the one I have so it can be off to the side, but I already have a decent Bosch router table and could easily put one into the Grizzly.

I'm just worried about continuing to suffer from the sunk cost fallacy.

Falcon2001 posted:

Anyone do any spoon carving? I'm having a heck of a time sanding the inside of the bowl smooth. Not sure if there's some fancy trick to it.

His Divine Shadow posted:

It does sound like you've gotten the saw into fine shape, aside from the fence. If it works as well as you say maybe see if you can sell it and put the money towards the best table saw you can find, with the extra $$$ perhaps you can step up from hybrid to real cabinet saw.

Falcon2001 posted:

Anyone do any spoon carving? I'm having a heck of a time sanding the inside of the bowl smooth. Not sure if there's some fancy trick to it.

Spazz posted:

Putting a 220V line into my garage isn't an option and would add on more cost overall, and I'd rather not put more money into things like that where I will not recoup the expense when selling the house. My fiancee and I are trying to only be here for another few years before we ditch the area.

I'd be uneasy about passing it on to someone who doesn't know what they're doing. The wrong idiot tries to rip a 4x4 full depth of cut they're going to have a missile shooting across their shop. I see similar makes/models on Craigslist for varying prices but there's no guarantee it would sell.

Nonetheless, I appreciate all the input and ideas all of you have given. It will most likely not land in the scrap yard, just an unused corner of my shop until I sell or find a use for a big heavy cast iron surface.

Until then it will sit there in shame, knowing it can't make a straight rip.


vvv White chalk pencil vvv

mds2 posted:

I never have, but maybe try a foam pad wrapped in sand paper.


Can anyone recommend a good white or light pencil. I work with walnut a lot and cant see poo poo when using a normal pencil. My kid's colored pencils dont work for poo poo either.

thegasman2000 posted:

I just got access to an old workshop I can use and there is an old, working, bandsaw. I measured it as there is no blade and it needs a 3.4 meter long band. Is this standard? Where in the U.K. Can I get one this big as screwfix and places like that seem to have 2m ish bands.

Tres Burritos posted:

The more I get into this hobby the more I'm astonished by some of the incredibly bad advice given out to newcomers.

Tres Burritos posted:

Forget all that "now you have to learn how to sharpen a saw" nonsense. The more I get into this hobby the more I'm astonished by some of the incredibly bad advice given out to newcomers.

Tres Burritos posted:

I think I'm officially a Japanese saw person now. I bought this ryoba a while ago and used it for most of my "rough" cutting. However I've been practicing dovetails/joinery using these saws from Lee Valley. I was struggling a lot with those and I liked the ryoba so much so I decided to order this saw and holy poo poo does anyone want to buy my backsaws (and bowsaw)?

The difference in cut quality is astonishing and when the blade on the Japanese saw gets dull you can just buy another one. Forget all that "now you have to learn how to sharpen a saw" nonsense. The more I get into this hobby the more I'm astonished by some of the incredibly bad advice given out to newcomers. The bang / buck ratio on the japanese saws is astonishing and it doesn't take much thought and practice to acclimatize to the pull vs push motion.