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richyp posted:Tonight I thought I'd have ago at my arch nemesis, painting flesh. So I painted up a few blood blooders skin for practice. Really pleased with how they came out, but the camera has given them a bit of a tan. drat this is some hella sexy meatflesh
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Aug 8, 2017 01:01
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S.J. posted:If you don't mind answering a question, I just started getting into grabbing some Scale 75 stuff, are their inks anything close to way you'd use GW washes? Not really - I use the Inks as a way to punch the poo poo out of a colour to make it much richer.  For example I had fairly muted tones on the armour plates, then decided I wanted something more vibrant, so hit it with the Inktensity green 50/50 with medium to enhance the richness of the colour. Other people successfully use them as glazes, especially over skin tones to introduce warmth and life.
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Aug 8, 2017 01:06
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Shadin posted:Speaking of this, let's hear how some of y'all are using the gloss washes from Citadel. I grabbed gloss Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade, and have used it some for metals and the like, but I know in my heart that I'm not using it to its full potential. Gloss washes change the game up. They essentially give you the ability to do a recess wash, but not having to be careful about placement, as the liquid immediately falls off flat surfaces with very little to no staining. Once dry, a quick hit of matte varnish and you've just saved a poo poo load of time when you're painting 10 odd minis at a time. I just wish they'd release more colours.
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Aug 8, 2017 01:08
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Cross-postin'Alokgen posted:I finished a thing today. I'm real happy with how this dude turned out. This is my first time making snow. I think it came out okay. On to the next thing.
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Aug 8, 2017 03:24
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richyp posted:Tonight I thought I'd have ago at my arch nemesis, painting flesh. So I painted up a few blood blooders skin for practice. Really pleased with how they came out, but the camera has given them a bit of a tan. Looks awesome, what's your process?
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Aug 8, 2017 04:14
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Yeast posted:Gloss washes change the game up. They essentially give you the ability to do a recess wash, but not having to be careful about placement, as the liquid immediately falls off flat surfaces with very little to no staining. That sounds really good. How do they compare to oil washes? They sound like a good water-soluble alternative.
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Aug 8, 2017 06:18
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Yeast posted:Not really - I use the Inks as a way to punch the poo poo out of a colour to make it much richer. Would you call them a 'filter'? I think I've read that scale model folks call thin coats that modulates colors underneath by that name.
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Aug 8, 2017 07:45
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Shadin posted:These own bones and you're way better at flesh than I am already. I've always been intimidated by it and hide it by preferring armored spase mans and ratpeople. I wish I could say it was my first attempt at skin, but I've been trying since the end of the 80's to get it right  Face's I'm fine with, but large areas always looked too flat.Quidthulhu posted:drat this is some hella sexy meatflesh MasterSlowPoke posted:Looks awesome, what's your process? Thanks, it's pretty quick compared to other methods I've tried over the years, I think the fact there's 5 of them actually made it seem quicker as the washes were dry at end of the 5th guy each time. On Grey Primer: - Bugmans Glow - Bugmans Glow + Kislev Flesh + Medium about 1:1:1 - Very thin Kislev Flesh + Medium about 1:3 (Lots of layers to build up gradually) - Reikland Flesh shade in all crevices. Build up slowly - Drucchi Violet in deepest recesses (armpits, under man boobs etc.) - Kislev Flesh + Medium about 1:1 to draw a couple of lines from darker to lighter areas. I think what helps it work the most was dragging the very thin layers towards the light source rather than my usual highlighting method of dropping a blob of watered paint in the centre of the layer. Took about 2-2.5hrs for the 5 of them, downside is that if I finish the models off I know I'll end up getting metals on the flesh. Also that caked up primer on the armour is going to show through quite badly. Yeast posted:Not really - I use the Inks as a way to punch the poo poo out of a colour to make it much richer. He's beautiful, in both the nurgle sense and the paint on model sense. I think I have a couple of inkensity bottles that I bought before the rest of stuff got destroyed and they were stored elsewhere so may have survived, might have to play around with them if I can find them.
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Aug 8, 2017 07:45
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 Ideas for dirtying this up a little? i'm thinking the average dust and grime of a city street. Simple methods preferred!
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Aug 8, 2017 10:51
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Frobbe posted:
Lightly Stippled greys of different shades, a few spots of different coloured washes (Purples/Blues). Maybe a couple of dabs of an almost dried orange colour on the bronze/brown bits? EDIT: In Blood Blood Murder Stabbers news, we got a bit of sunshine this morning for about 10mins. After slapping some red more base colours and washes on last night thought I'd grab a couple of shots while waiting for the sandy paint on the base to dry (skin is still appearing more red/orange than in reality but meh). Should hopefully finish these guys off tonight or tomorrow if I get a couple of hours. Everything but the skin needs highlighting and shading.      richyp fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Aug 8, 2017 |
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Aug 8, 2017 11:01
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Finished Kingdom Death survivor in Lantern Armour with Steel Sword, Steel Shield and Flower Knight Helm?. Took me ages (the WIP for this is from months ago) to get in the right mood to finish this model, as my NMM on the shield didn't look right for a while. But now I am a lot happier with it. Also new lighting box arrived today.  So I finished Xekaar, the Titan Gladiator and the Cyclops Raider for the MK3 Hordes boxed game. On the bottom is the Gladiator on the left with the one I painted about 5 years back. My aim with this was a) paint it all quick, b) make sure it fits in with my old stuff. I could have done loads better these days but then it would have looked really out of place with the entire army. 
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Aug 8, 2017 19:55
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Re: wash chat, I've added a little bit of jet dry to my home-made wash medium, and it does a lot to help it flow into cracks
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Aug 8, 2017 21:46
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2 more hours, still not finished. Flesh and red's are done. Black/Blue's, fur, browns and metals need highlighting some more but I think these might be the best things I've painted yet. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish them off and get a day time shot. The glass of blood orange paint mix was nearly mixed up with the beer just to the right of it more than once this evening.
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Aug 8, 2017 22:36
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richyp posted:2 more hours, still not finished. Flesh and red's are done. Black/Blue's, fur, browns and metals need highlighting some more but I think these might be the best things I've painted yet. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish them off and get a day time shot. Those are amazing. They already look like something a studio painter would put out.
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Aug 8, 2017 22:39
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What did you use for skin tone on the scarred guy second from left? That chest is drat good.
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Aug 8, 2017 23:34
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Christ these mans are beautiful.  I love how the head with the beard on the right kinda has this "Oh you.   " face.
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Aug 9, 2017 04:21
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The only reason I don't use Citadel paints is because I can't trust them to keep their line consistent. That said I love their basing paint (Agrellan Earth) and will likely check out the gloss washes. I generally use Vallejo and Army Painter stuff thanks to local stores.
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Aug 9, 2017 05:39
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Thanks guys. I'm painting these up to put in a display case rather than shoved in a box in the garage, which is what usual resting spot for anything I've painted that's why I'm spending a bit more time on them than a normal one sitting.Mexicola posted:What did you use for skin tone on the scarred guy second from left? That chest is drat good. I originally bought these guys to practice painting skin and wasn't planning on actually finishing them, so that's a big compliment thanks The skin was (over grey primer): - Thinned Bugmans Glow, 2-3 coats (it's quite dark and about to get darker still but makes a good base for a medium tone) - Reikland Flesh Shade in all the recesses, pulling the wash towards the deepest recesses. - Repeat above a couple of times to build up the darker areas. - Small amounts of Drucchi Purple in deepest recesses, and over any "bruised/scarred areas" e.g. Chaos scars, impaled bits. - Crimson shade over some of the purple scarred areas, but not recesses. - Mix about 1:1:3 Kislev Flesh, Bugmans Glow and some medium, and draw lots of small lines from the recessed areas to the flat areas, getting wider the further away the go merging them on the highest points. This technique may have a name but I'm not an artist so someone else might know. It's like layered blending using lines rather than feathering. - Repeat the above step a bazillion times decreasing the start of the lines each time for smoother layers (I rushed it on some and the blends aren't as smooth) - Use 1:3 Kislev and Medium and edge the most prominent surfaces and the raised scarring. The tricky part is waiting for the layers to dry fully with the medium, as you don't want to drag a brush through it while its still a bit wet otherwise it pulls the paint off and leaves brush marks. With the 5 models, the first was mostly dry by the time I finished the fifth. Have a beer on standby to drink between layers anyway. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The only reason I don't use Citadel paints is because I can't trust them to keep their line consistent. That said I love their basing paint (Agrellan Earth) and will likely check out the gloss washes. I tended to us a mix of VMC and Citadel. Only have a couple bottles of VMC left but for the longest time it was pretty much the only paint I used, besides washes and metals. My favourite colour was VMC Pale Sand as it mixes with pretty much everything, makes a great skin highlight etc..If my local model store hadn't closed I'd have restocked with their paints again now I only have a GW near by. Vallejo bottles are also great as you can reproduce mixtures every time, where as with Citadel it's brush dipping and eyeballing the shades. I tried Scale 75 for a bit, and based on what everyone else was saying I must've had a bad batch or the paints didn't click with me for some reason, they felt too watery and I usually thin paints to oblivion. The Scale 75 inks though were great. My painting dream time would be: Citadel Base Colours, Shades and Texture Paint. Vallejo Model Color for layers and highlights. Scale 75 for Inks. Metals are probably a mix of the 3.
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Aug 9, 2017 07:21
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Finished them. I could keep going but I think I'd start to ruin them if I kept highlighting any further. Group Shot:  Close ups:     
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Aug 9, 2017 11:42
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Really dope, good to see you painting again.
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Aug 9, 2017 13:02
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For a man who claims to be weak at painting flesh that is some drat fine murderviking flesh.
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Aug 9, 2017 13:28
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Thanks guys. I've always been ok with faces, and I cut my teeth on painting green skins but whenever I've painted anything larger than a face it's always ended up really jaundiced or peach looking. Until layer 100 of the lighter flesh tone these guys were still looking very pink, which was probably due to the over use of purple
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Aug 9, 2017 14:19
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So I'm going to soon start painting the Death Guard from the Dark Imperium set, now that I am almost done finishing the metal Plague Marines I have had in limbo for the past many years or so. The color scheme I think I like best is the guy on the right - beige* colored armor, olive green pauldrons / parts of the backpack, brass trim, ochre fungal growths, fuchsia cloth/hoods, and greyish skin. Basically a "rotted" version of the pre-heresy color scheme, following close to secondary colors without using a pure orange or purple. Originally I was saving this for characters and champions, and using the pattern on the left for the basic troopers but now I'm thinking of making this the standard scheme for everyone. Before I start blasting through a bunch of dudes, does this look pretty good or is there a better recommendation for the growths and cloth? Or, alternatively, would green armor trim like on the left guy work better to help the ochre / fuchsia pop out more instead of the brass (which will be darker on future models)? edit: the fushcia is a recolor in photoshop so it doesn't quite match the paint color (screamer pink). *Technically the color has a slight green tint to it, but it looks beige when next to all the other colors. On my palette it looks noticeably different. Fake James fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 15:35
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Silver scales: black base, gun metal, purple wash, gun metal over the raised parts, highlight with silver?
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Aug 10, 2017 15:46
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A more bluish wash may read better as silver than purple. And I might start with a bright silver instead of gunmetal, wash fully, then highlight back up.
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Aug 10, 2017 16:42
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Quoting myself from the Chapter Challenge thread.TTerrible posted:I present Sgt Monochromaticus of the Rainbow Scars This is the first time I've used coal black to highlight black on a large area and I'm really happy with how it came out. I have a burning desire to do a black marine army now.
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Aug 10, 2017 19:20
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Those gradient shoulder pans are awesome!!
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Aug 10, 2017 19:32
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Trying to come up with a colour scheme for the most boring models in the cheapo AoS box. Here's a quick and rough colour test on a Sigmarine that isn't completely gold. I think like most models it needs some teal somewhere. On the ones with plumes they'll be teal, but on these plain guys I'm at a loss where to add it, hammer's head maybe?
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Aug 10, 2017 19:45
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Hammers head is good, or the halo?
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Aug 10, 2017 19:50
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The trim on his scale loincloth?
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Aug 10, 2017 20:02
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Since the Ironjawz Brute box comes with an option for a peg leg, it makes sense the unit would have one spare right boot. 
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Aug 10, 2017 20:02
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Zuul the Cat posted:Since the Ironjawz Brute box comes with an option for a peg leg, it makes sense the unit would have one spare right boot. Love it.
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Aug 10, 2017 20:33
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BULBASAUR posted:Would you call them a 'filter'? I think I've read that scale model folks call thin coats that modulates colors underneath by that name. That's actually a super great way of thinking about them. It's like cracking open a real life photo editor and adding X% colour saturation to what you've painted underneath.
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Aug 11, 2017 00:29
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Yeast posted:That's actually a super great way of thinking about them. As far as I've learned, washes are generally meant to be opaque, and provide (relatively) solid colouring at it's thickest areas with some transition, and be applied selectively to increase depth (hams however don't know that less is more, and "dipping" became the thing to do a few years back). Please don't dip, just selectively apply areas that need better definition. Glazes provide colour modulation, and can alter colour values. It's essentially thinned down paint that is still somewhat transparent when it dries, and you build up layers for however opaque of transparent you want your transitions/effects. A lot of hams here are glaze painters whether they know if it not, and for good reason - its fairly forgiving of mistakes, builds nice transitions, allows you to pick out details. Downside is it's time consuming and fiddly, building up highlights over several layers. With the filter, it's meant to be even more transparent than a glaze, and only slightly alter the underlying colour. Application wise is usually meant to slightly alter the underlying colour, as a larger all-over sort of effect (say, over entire panels rather than the recesses). This needs the use of additives besides water for acrylic, since it's thinning the paint down to coloured water essentially. It's difficult keeping track of terminology between hobbies and disciplines, as model rail road, miniature war gaming, professional model making, and fine arts all use very similar terms, or weird terms for the same thing (dry brushing doesn't exist in fine arts, but scumbling is the exact same technique). Least with the internet there's more and more crossover and exposure between the communities so terms are starting to get more ubiquitous. Not to mention there's no real right way of doing it, so using whatever method to get your effect is all that matters. Everyone just mix-matches what they like doing. If I'm wrong on any of that please correct me, but that's been my understanding.
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Aug 11, 2017 02:59
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VolatileSky posted:
That all seems pretty accurate - The Scale Inktensity range is ink though, very very strong saturation, that allows you reduce it with medium to the level you want, and then apply it. I've only used the green/red and Chestnut so far - there's another 5 I think that I've got but haven't tried yet. It's a very nice tool to have in the rack.
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Aug 11, 2017 04:46
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Posted in the Before I finish these guys off with proper highlights and stuff does this colour scheme work? 
richyp fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Aug 11, 2017 |
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Aug 11, 2017 11:45
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That's a way more interesting scheme than the standard ne.
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Aug 11, 2017 12:08
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That scheme looks great RichyP, makes me like the sigmarines even, which is an accomplishment.
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Aug 11, 2017 13:12
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I was kinda leery about the scheme before, but the teal really sets them off, and it looks way better on groups of models than just one.
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Aug 11, 2017 13:52
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Thanks guys I'll paint them up like that then. In my head they needed the light blue to compliment the yellow (gold) but I was worried that the purple, blue and yellow would be too much all together. To be honest the models aren't too bad, they're just very bulky statuesque marines. The khorne stuff (stupid names aside) is nice. The £20 box is not bad at all, for £40 of models, the rules and the dice, as is the 40k kill team one.
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Aug 11, 2017 14:08
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