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cods posted:How is the reliability of Mitsubishi these days? A 2017 mirage with 4k miles? Is it a shotbox and that's why it's so cheap? (12k) Don't do it. If you have a real thing for 2016-2017 cars have a look at Hertz and Enterprise car sales. They dip slightly below KBB values due to the stigma on rentals to get you around 10-11k for econoboxes.
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Aug 10, 2017 15:13
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Michael Scott posted:Don't do it. If you have a real thing for 2016-2017 cars have a look at Hertz and Enterprise car sales. They dip slightly below KBB values due to the stigma on rentals to get you around 10-11k for econoboxes. This advice is as bad as the Mirage. Don't buy a mirage and don't buy a rental.
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Aug 10, 2017 15:17
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If you buy a mirage rental it will basically cancel each other out and be nothing but a good thing.
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Aug 10, 2017 15:33
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cods posted:How is the reliability of Mitsubishi these days? A 2017 mirage with 4k miles? Is it a shotbox and that's why it's so cheap? (12k) The Mirage is about average in repair and maintenance, according to Edmunds. Car and Driver considers it to be one of the worst cars on the road. A brand new one is under $15k, so $12k for one with 4k miles isn't really much of a bargain. Look at a ca. 2011/2012 Mazda 3 or Honda Civic for a decent DD.
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Aug 10, 2017 15:35
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Hey Guys, let me apologize beforehand for this barrage of stupid questions but I don’t live in the US and have some doubts on purchasing a car, since this would be my first time buying a car in the US Background: I’m interested in buying a classic mustang (First Gen) to export and bring down to the Dominican Republic. I’ve seen some cars on craigslist and online. 1. I would imagine all cars should be sold with a title? I would need to title the car under my name before exporting. Is there any advice on what I should look out for in the title? 2. Would I need a license plate? Car would be trailered from seller to temporary storage then to export. Would I still have to plate the car? 3. Any other places I should search online besides craigslist? 4. I’ve limited my searches to the south east are there chances I could get better prices searching in middle western states? 5. Since every country has their own way of negotiating final price. I would want to offend any sellers so how much lower should I offer on average 10%-15%? 6. Anything else I should take into considerations Once again, sorry for all the questions....but lurking on AI and seeing some kickass projects is a big motivator so thanks
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Aug 10, 2017 16:08
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So finally finished transferring my dad's old truck and got it inspected. I'm glad I got it inspected before I noticed a hole in the rocker panels and realized it was all just paint holding together a bunch of rust. I pulled out a majority of the rot by hand, but before next year comes around I'll have to get this fixed so it can get through inspection again. I have zero experience in welding, but I'm not looking to pay out the nose to have a body shop weld a new panel in. Would it be fine to cut the rotted section out and use a slip-on panel attached with steel rivets? Michael Scott posted:Don't do it. If you have a real thing for 2016-2017 cars have a look at Hertz and Enterprise car sales. They dip slightly below KBB values due to the stigma on rentals to get you around 10-11k for econoboxes. Quit telling people to buy rentals. It is almost universally terrible advice. IronDoge fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 17:00
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:This advice is as bad as the Mirage. Don't buy a mirage and don't buy a rental.
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Aug 10, 2017 17:02
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l_th posted:6. Anything else I should take into considerations Unfortunately, anyone who puts any car up for sale on Craigslist gets hammered by scammers with "ship me the car, I am foriegn person have paying you with money order" or whatever, so you should expect your attempts to buy a car on craigslist from a foreign country to be completely ignored or perhaps met with instant angry rejection by almost everyone. Even more unfortunately, you're boned anyway. According to this random web page, you simply cannot export any car more than five years old from the US to DR. Check into that because if that's true, your plans for a first gen Mustang may not work out. quote:No cars more than 2000 cc or 6 cylinders can be imported.
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Aug 10, 2017 17:10
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Josh Lyman posted:Last August (2016) my friend bought a fleet-used 2014 Prius Plug-In from Carmax for 14k or 15k and it's been great. Fleet car is little different from a rental, usually assigned to one or a small number of people. Not Jim, the middle aged overweight Executive Platinum guy who drives the nuts off it when it's stone cold and then drops it off for the next slob to take a turn.
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Aug 10, 2017 17:32
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My brother bought an ex rental 2001 corolla and it was great, he just traded it last year. I would personally take an ex rental over a repo or smoker/dog hair/deferred maintenance vehicle. New cars wont let you do neutral drops, rentals do see regular cleaning and maintenance, and the rental car companies send the truly poo poo ones to auction. There is no incentive for them to try to market the truly wasted ones. Also I rent at least 30 times a year and have yet to abuse one like you say everyone does. And I don't think I have ever seen someone leave the rental lot doing a burnout, that would be plain stupid.
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Aug 10, 2017 17:55
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Leperflesh posted:Unfortunately, anyone who puts any car up for sale on Craigslist gets hammered by scammers with "ship me the car, I am foriegn person have paying you with money order" or whatever, so you should expect your attempts to buy a car on craigslist from a foreign country to be completely ignored or perhaps met with instant angry rejection by almost everyone. On sellers, I'm having a old friend who lives in the US contact the sellers to also check out the cars in person before I fly in. Plus I would most likely pay cash on the spot or use a Bank of America cashiers check or transfer. Yeah, local laws prohibit 5+ years BUT I can get a letter from the local classic car club that will allow me to import the car. I do get screwed with a 25% import tariff. This is killing my budget
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Aug 10, 2017 18:08
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On the topic of buying a car on CL, I found this guy the other day. 143k miles. Rebuilt title. I am completely in agreement and on-board with the mindset to stay away, far far away from rebuilt titles. But I'm wondering if there's ever any reason to maybe think about possibly deviating from that rule, if certain conditions are met? If the answer is still, no, never - no problem. But I talked to him a bit and he said he works for the garage that fixed it. He said he has the original appraisal and the receipts of all new parts. The accident hit the right front side of the bumper cover and took out the radiator support. "It missed the frame wheel and also missed the wheel ans suspension put in a new radiator support, new fender, new hood, new headlights, new bumper cover , new grille, new spash shield. The car drives down the road straight. Put in new radiator and condensor and charged ac. Car passed state police inspection" If I took this to my local Lexus dealer and paid a tech to look it over and they say everything checks out, and he took an offer of $6,000 - would this be a reasonable/good purchase? Or should I just stop even thinking about it? My 02 IS300 is at the dealer right now since replacing the front ABS wheel speed sensor didn't fix the ABS kicking in before coming to a complete stop issue. I'm worried it's going to be a huge amount to have fixed, and I'm looking around. So barring the above, any suggestions for me? I love the small, tight, cozy yet sporty feel of the IS300. I've had it for almost 9 years now, I still love it. It's got some rust in the rear left rocker panel area which I'll have to deal with. I don't know what to do.  I like WRXs but I don't know if I want to a WRX driver? Is that a dumb and wrong opinion? In the upstate NY area they are basically known for being racer boy kids. I've been looking at Volvo's and those seem really nice and pack a lot of power. I'm not super in love with the new Lexus offering unless I go out of my price range - way out. Any cars you guys would suggest to shop around for to regretfully possibly replace my IS300?
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Aug 10, 2017 20:40
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Am I missing something? The Edmunds value for an '07 IS250 AWD with 144k miles and a clean title is $5500 in clean condition. $6k would be overpaying by a significant amount, and with a rebuilt title, sale of the car after you take possession will be difficult and involve huge price drops. Private sellers may seek above book value if there is significant demand, but it's never a rebuilt title. You should be paying thousands less. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 21:28
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Huh, yeah - there seems to be quite a difference between Edmunds and how much cars go for in this area. Hard to find that car for anywhere near that price. Oh well, whatever. Thanks.
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Aug 10, 2017 21:53
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 How on earth am I going to grease this lil' fucker? I have two types of needle adapters and neither works.
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Aug 10, 2017 22:02
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yamdankee posted:Huh, yeah - there seems to be quite a difference between Edmunds and how much cars go for in this area. Hard to find that car for anywhere near that price. Oh well, whatever. Thanks. Are you looking at CL posts or dealers? Dealer prices will be typically a couple thousand $ higher than PP at your price range. Either way it makes sense, a 2007 IS250 is going to be in low volume and relatively high demand, so price may float upwards from true book value, but not for a rebuilt.
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Aug 10, 2017 22:03
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Lexus just told me I need new rear axles and deflector rings - $1026. Edmunds says my car is worth $1,836. I'm screwed. 
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Aug 10, 2017 22:17
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A thousand bucks to keep a good car on the road is nothing compared to the cost of a new or used car that you know little about 
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Aug 10, 2017 22:18
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yamdankee posted:Lexus just told me I need new rear axles and deflector rings - $1026. Edmunds says my car is worth $1,836. If you like the car, keep it. Knowing the full history of the car you're driving is worth a lot. This could be a good excuse to dump it if you wanted to get rid of it anyway, but personally I would fix it and keep driving it. However, I would probably draw the line that that was the last $1000 repair the car would get.
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Aug 10, 2017 22:23
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Michael Scott posted:Are you looking at CL posts or dealers? Dealer prices will be typically a couple thousand $ higher than PP at your price range. Either way it makes sense, a 2007 IS250 is going to be in low volume and relatively high demand, so price may float upwards from true book value, but not for a rebuilt. Is Edmunds considered a book value in any circumstance? I have never had a bank, DMV, tag/title office, or otherwise ever defer to Edmunds car valuation. NADA on that Lexus (without a rebuilt) is like $9100. KBB is $7900 (without rebuilt). Edmunds is way low, and I just appraised my B8 S4 on their site, and they are saying my 56,000 mile -perfect- condition car is $8000 below the other two sites and /any/ other B8 S4 I've seen for sale, rebuilt or not.
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Aug 11, 2017 00:23
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yamdankee posted:Huh, yeah - there seems to be quite a difference between Edmunds and how much cars go for in this area. Hard to find that car for anywhere near that price. Oh well, whatever. Thanks. If you're paying cash, take the car to a Lexus dealer, have a PPI done, and offer the guy a max of $6k if the inspection comes back clean. That'd be a good car at a great price-point.
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Aug 11, 2017 00:25
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Astonishing Wang posted:
Found this in a machine forum, maybe it will help you? It was the last relevant post about the fitting. 
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Aug 11, 2017 00:38
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Does anyone have a link to a simple guide to repairing fuel lines? e: so ive done a little more research, and now have several different ideas for how to do it. Any friendly suggestions or preferred methods? Also, any absolute dont's for this type of repair would be appreciated. violentlycitrus fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Aug 11, 2017 |
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Aug 11, 2017 01:03
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IronDoge posted:
That's honestly a question for the inspector. I've seen someone make DIY rocker panels out of sheet steel and self tapper it in and have it pass safety here, but I know it wouldn't be up to snuff elsewhere. violentlycitrus posted:Does anyone have a link to a simple guide to repairing fuel lines? Don't skimp on any of the parts or tools. The cheaper versions will just ruin whatever you're doing. If you end up needed to flare hard line, do a bunch of practice flares first. Buy a fire extinguisher and have it handy for the first run, I'd recommend a 10lb at the very least.
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Aug 11, 2017 02:53
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I mean, an extinguisher is always a good choice, but... I've literally had a fuel pump spraying on the exhaust once and the truck is still here. Yes, it was a massive code brown.
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Aug 11, 2017 03:28
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Yeah its been interesting, i wanted to change the fuel pump because chevy, then i was looking under there and saw a pinhole in the tank, that one tap expanded out to the size of a quarter. Now that its all put back together one of the lines is leaking.
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Aug 11, 2017 05:56
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Hard line or soft?
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Aug 11, 2017 11:53
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If I can feel grooves on rear disc brakes, how bad is it? http://imgur.com/CrD5bmB lovely picture but can't take the rims off right now. At least the pads seem to have a lot of material left.
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Aug 11, 2017 13:43
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MrOnBicycle posted:If I can feel grooves on rear disc brakes, how bad is it? Eh, that's pretty normal for an old rotor. That looks like a small (1-2mm lip) where the rotors are worn. As long as you're not nearing the rotor's minimum thickness, the pads are wearing evenly, and the rotor wear is consistent across both sides I would file this under 'replace rotors when pads get low.'
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Aug 11, 2017 17:33
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Eh, that's pretty normal for an old rotor. That looks like a small (1-2mm lip) where the rotors are worn. As long as you're not nearing the rotor's minimum thickness, the pads are wearing evenly, and the rotor wear is consistent across both sides I would file this under 'replace rotors when pads get low.' Cool, thanks! I figured that the MOT-equivalent would have said something 6 months ago if it was in horrible condition. I don't drive very much, so I doubt there's much wear since then.
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Aug 11, 2017 17:35
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Guys, I want to but a used car from a private party, and it has a lien with a credit union. (Guy bought a corporate car 3 months ago, sounds like he can't make the payments.) I figure that gives me some bargaining power, for one thing. Anyway it sounds like we would both go together to the bank to arrange for me to buy off the title and for him to transfer it. But I'm guessing there's some kind of paperwork mechanism that guarantees that the title comes to me? (For the record, 2013 highlander hybrid with 115k miles for $22,000. Figured I'd offer 20,000 if all looks good on prepurchase inspection.) carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Aug 11, 2017 |
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Aug 11, 2017 20:34
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So, I picked up one of those combined 8" sub/integrated amp combo's because it was  and I want to really feel the low end on those Phil Collins cassettes. Didn't come with the wiring harness or anything else though.  Am I boned? I want to keep the factory cassette deck because... reasons, so I know I need a low-line converter like this to gain RCA out. For the power, I can buy a wiring kit from eBay, but not sure about how/if I should go down from a fat 8ga wire. If those 8 pin connectors are standard I'm sure I can scrounge one at the recycle shop, at least. Breakfast Feud posted:Hard line or soft? Yeah, this. I patched a section of the soft lines on my old van (I'm pretty sure with the help of this thread), it was really easy. Buy tubing, buy hose clamps, get under car, install. Be sure to wear eye protection so no bits of road cheese fall in them.
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Aug 12, 2017 04:38
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The rear (hatch) windscreen washer on my 2002 (ZZE122) Corolla has ceased to spray. Initially I thought there was a separate tank for the rear because it kept spraying when the front was empty, however now I suspect it was just what was left in the line. The fronts are spraying fine now that I've topped the tank off. However when I try to activate the rear I can hear the pump working but nothing comes out. I've run it for a fairly long time in case the line was full of air but still no joy. Any suggestions for what to look for here?
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Aug 12, 2017 04:43
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Ethics_Gradient posted:So, I picked up one of those combined 8" sub/integrated amp combo's because it was That looks like a Molex Mini-fit Jr., so the plug should be pretty standard. If you have a dead computer power supply, the EPS12V plug should be that. The tricky part might be finding out which wires do what, so you'll have to see if you can find a schematic for it or a picture of the correct adapter so you can put the right wires in the right place.
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Aug 12, 2017 04:59
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Or, you know, post the model #...
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Aug 12, 2017 05:20
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I honestly have no idea what the brand is, there's what appears to be three cursive letters on the other side, but I cannot for the life of me tell what they are (foz?). Model or serial number is S011013940
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Aug 12, 2017 09:25
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slothrop posted:The rear (hatch) windscreen washer on my 2002 (ZZE122) Corolla has ceased to spray. Initially I thought there was a separate tank for the rear because it kept spraying when the front was empty, however now I suspect it was just what was left in the line. Blockage in the nozzle? Try disconnecting the line from the nozzle and see if water comes out of that.
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Aug 12, 2017 12:59
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Raluek posted:That looks like a Molex Mini-fit Jr., so the plug should be pretty standard. If you have a dead computer power supply, the EPS12V plug should be that. The tricky part might be finding out which wires do what, so you'll have to see if you can find a schematic for it or a picture of the correct adapter so you can put the right wires in the right place. Ok, it says power/speaker input, so 4 of them are likely to be +/- for L/R channels, and the other 4 dealing with power and earth. Now, I've seen Blaupunkt use that exact connector on an integrated sub/amp, so if it's one of theirs, or a copy of the same hardware, maybe you'll get lucky with that. Have a look at page 2 of this: http://www.blaupunkt.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Service/SERVICEDOKU_ZIEL/EA/SF/7606318001001_EA_SF.pdf and page 38 of this: http://www.blaupunkt.com/uploads/tx_ddfproductsbp/BlueMagic_XLf200A_print_BPEurope_10.pdf - both the same plug, and both the same wiring scheme. Can you dismantle it enough to see what's going on with connections between the socket and circuit board? That might be a big clue.
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Aug 12, 2017 14:05
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carcinofuck posted:Guys, I want to but a used car from a private party, and it has a lien with a credit union. (Guy bought a corporate car 3 months ago, sounds like he can't make the payments.) You only have bargaining power if he has more equity in the vehicle than the lien is for. Otherwise, the sale just won't happen unless he's willing to throw the difference between the purchase price and balance on the loan at the time of sale. Also, yes just go to the bank, they will take care of everything, shouldn't need any mechanism if it's a credit union they should be able to produce the title there, clear the lien, and you'd have him sign the title to you right then and there. (all of this is subject to whatever state/province title transfer regs you have to deal with)
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Aug 12, 2017 18:14
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If he's selling it because "Whoops turns out I can't actually afford it!" then he's probably not going to sell it for less than he owes...because he'll have to pay the difference right there for you to get the title. If he can't make payments, he probably can't pull a couple grand out of his pocket to pay it off. The CU is not going to sign over the title until the full loan amount is paid off. Basically the only way you get the title is to buy a used car and take the depreciation hit, or this guy has a fat wallet. Edit: Are company cars considered to be in better shape than rentals? I still wouldn't want one, for the same reasons.
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Aug 12, 2017 18:34
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