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richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
Unit of 5 Blood Warriors done. Need a break from red and gold, the base reds are about 3 coats for a smooth coverage and slipping up with the metals really fucks it up.



Might alliance in some Skaven or Nurgle stuff next.

EDIT: Just noticed the champion's (guy with the not-batleth sword) hair isn't finished, forgot to blend the middle tone in.

richyp fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Aug 15, 2017

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Squibsy
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.
College Slice

richyp posted:

Unit of 5 Blood Warriors done. Need a break from red and gold, the base reds are about 3 coats for a smooth coverage and slipping up with the metals really fucks it up.



Might alliance in some Skaven or Nurgle stuff next.

Jesus Christ.

Irate Tree
Mar 12, 2011

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Not a fan of the Sigmar blood bloods as figures but your painting makes them look freakin' sweet.

I love the dude with the banner, especially. He looks fit to burst with pent up frustration!

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Shadin posted:

I've been using more Army Painter than not lately since getting my airbrush, but I admit I haven't tried spraying Skeleton Bone (I think?) through it. So far I've done mostly the normal reds, greens, blues, which have all worked fine with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.

Ok, maybe it's just that color then. I immediately sprayed VGC Rotting Flesh (or whatever) and it worked just fine, so I know it wasn't the brush itself having issues. Thanks.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

ineptmule posted:

Jesus Christ.

:question:


Irate Tree posted:

Not a fan of the Sigmar blood bloods as figures but your painting makes them look freakin' sweet.

I love the dude with the banner, especially. He looks fit to burst with pent up frustration!

Thanks, I really like the models though I didn't think I would but there's lots of details on them and tonnes of spare bits that would work well to convert vanilla chaos dudes into Khorne ones too. The biggest pain is painting all the fiddly gold trim, way worse than the Chosen dudes that came with Dark Vengeance.

The snap fit ones from the £20 starter mixed in nicely with the banner guy and the Champion I made from the Start Collecting sprues. I've still got a Slaughterpriest to finish , 3 Skullcrushers and a unit of Blood Letters to assemble and bits for 5-8 more of the dude's I just finished to make another unit of 5 or to pad them to 10 (they can wait I need to paint something different first before my eyes bleed gold paint). Just need to find bits to make 5 more of the Blood Reavers (Murder Vikings) on ebay to mix in with the snap fit ones I did last week.

Fake Edit: Keywords: Blood, Murder, Skulls, Death, Slaughter, Crusher

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
I started work on my Maw-Krusha last night and could use a little advice.





I decided to go with the purple and blue scheme I used on my Star Justicar here:



Obviously the skin on the Maw Krusha will be purple, and the horns/spikes will be that teal blue color.

My question is, should i work that pink highlight across the rest of the model, or just stick with selected areas? (The jaw line will have that bright pink color for the gums and lips as well).

It will match the base I have on my megaboss here:

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Zuul the Cat posted:

I started work on my Maw-Krusha last night and could use a little advice.





I have no input on the pink highlight beyond that being the best purple I've ever seen.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
I think you can push your highlights more, but I wouldn't put a lot of that color everywhere as it will become your new 'base color' if you use it liberally

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Zuul the Cat posted:

I started work on my Maw-Krusha last night and could use a little advice.





I decided to go with the purple and blue scheme I used on my Star Justicar here:



Obviously the skin on the Maw Krusha will be purple, and the horns/spikes will be that teal blue color.

My question is, should i work that pink highlight across the rest of the model, or just stick with selected areas? (The jaw line will have that bright pink color for the gums and lips as well).

It will match the base I have on my megaboss here:



Looks good. If you're doing Teal and Purple you're definitely going to want to separate the colours either with a strong black/grey/dark blue lining or add a tertiary colour something on the yellow spectrum (maybe on the base).

The orange colour from the warboss would probably contrast great with all the purple, but only in select places (straps maybe).

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

richyp posted:

Looks good. If you're doing Teal and Purple you're definitely going to want to separate the colours either with a strong black/grey/dark blue lining or add a tertiary colour something on the yellow spectrum (maybe on the base).

The orange colour from the warboss would probably contrast great with all the purple, but only in select places (straps maybe).

I agree with this. It would be really cool to see a very slight bit of that orange as some kind of inner glow, maybe along the spikes in the spine, in the mouth, or around the eyes?

I forgot who posted it in the Challenge thread, but the colors on the SM that is shaded to look like a deep purple chrome would look incredible on this thing.

Either way, that thing looks cool as gently caress, and you are doing great! :discourse:

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Thanks for the tips. I'm planning on making his eyes yellow, and the armor/mask that goes over his face i'll probably make Orange (or maybe yellow) to match the Megaboss.

I'll definitely do 1 more extreme highlight with the pink that's just on the sharpest corners, just to make it pop a little more.

For the underbelly I was thinking of doing Zandri Dust, a wash of Drakenhof Nightshade then bring it back up with the dust and highlight with Karak Stone.

Although now that yellow has been mentioned, would it look too vibrant if I did the purple top with a yellow belly? The main colors would then be Orange, Purple and Yellow.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Zuul the Cat posted:

Thanks for the tips. I'm planning on making his eyes yellow, and the armor/mask that goes over his face i'll probably make Orange (or maybe yellow) to match the Megaboss.

I'll definitely do 1 more extreme highlight with the pink that's just on the sharpest corners, just to make it pop a little more.

For the underbelly I was thinking of doing Zandri Dust, a wash of Drakenhof Nightshade then bring it back up with the dust and highlight with Karak Stone.

Although now that yellow has been mentioned, would it look too vibrant if I did the purple top with a yellow belly? The main colors would then be Orange, Purple and Yellow.

Too vibrant? maybe. Depends what aesthetic you're going for. I kind of like extreme contrast but it certainly doesn't look realistic (not that a giant Dragon thing can look realistic). I'm a huge fan of contrast, and apparently for years I was using a colour wheel without realising it :)



The purple you've got is almost a perfect compliment to the yellow/pale green (orange will probably work fine as it's close enough) opposite, so it'll pop like crazy (and is what I would do) but it's an acquired taste as it wont look organic, unless you really blend it from purple to orange, via reds.

Crazy Ferret
May 11, 2007

Welp
Its been a while since I've posted or kept up with this thread but getting back into 8th edition Warhammer has got me painting and actually trying to up my game a bit. The pictures are not as good as I would like for this thread, but I wanted to post these guys here for some feedback if you feel so inclined.

I posted them in the 40k thread as well.

XPOST:
I do not know who mentioned it in the lead up to 8th edition, but someone here mentioned using the Age of Sigmar Blight Kings models as Chaos Spawn for Death Guard cause the models were cool. Man, I just fell in love with that idea and decided to do just that. The models are awesome! https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Rotbringers-Putrid-Blightkings

It was a super fun project to get me back into 40k. I've been playing my Guard but painting these guys has been too much fun. Also, I got a ton of extra bits to use on future Chaos stuff. I wanted to share since I'm fairly smitten with them.


Group Shot




Bell Belly Bro is one of my favorites.



Some seriously gross legs.


Also there is a Flyhead in the kit and how can you not use that bit.


My own critiques.

I primed green for the first time. I typically do either Black or Grey depending on how much detail I'm going to work with. I liked using Green since it was Nurgle-ly and worked well on the models, but it made trying to do the bases a bit of a pain in retrospect. I need to patch it up a bit.

Take better pictures. Find my old lightbox.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

richyp posted:

Too vibrant? maybe. Depends what aesthetic you're going for. I kind of like extreme contrast but it certainly doesn't look realistic (not that a giant Dragon thing can look realistic). I'm a huge fan of contrast, and apparently for years I was using a colour wheel without realising it :)



The purple you've got is almost a perfect compliment to the yellow/pale green (orange will probably work fine as it's close enough) opposite, so it'll pop like crazy (and is what I would do) but it's an acquired taste as it wont look organic, unless you really blend it from purple to orange, via reds.

I think I'm going to go with the yellow then for the underbelly and wing membranes. I purposely don't want my Orks Orruks to look hyper realistic. One of my favorite things about AoS is that it's so cartoonish, and i think the sharp contrast of the purple/pink with Orange/Yellow will make him stand out quite a bit.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Zuul the Cat posted:

I think I'm going to go with the yellow then for the underbelly and wing membranes. I purposely don't want my Orks Orruks to look hyper realistic. One of my favorite things about AoS is that it's so cartoonish, and i think the sharp contrast of the purple/pink with Orange/Yellow will make him stand out quite a bit.

Definitely. I had a massive downer of Sigmar when it came out as I really loved the blocks of units in WFB and subsequently KoW. But I get painters ADHD pretty quickly, so being able to bring any old model to the (painting) table is a nice touch and from what I've read of the rules it looks nice and streamlined, scales nicely and is super easy to remember. Being able to bring in units from other factions and painting them in a nice uniform manner to fit in with other factions is kind of cool.

Hopefully I'll be able to get a game in at some point if I can convince someone (anyone) to a) roll some dice and b) use my old undead as one of the AoS factions.

In actual painting news, spent the last 2hrs just painting multiple base layers of red on the 10 x Blood Letters, 1 Slaughter Priest and the first of the Skull Crushers. I'll probably paint the Blood Letters first as the red is the predominant bit and it'll feel like a massive morale boost clearing 10 of the 12 models in my queue :)

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
Double postin'

Almost finished the 10 Blood Letters and the Slaughter Priest.



Here they are with the rest of this weeks new additions.



Once they're based and have another highlight pass its on to something new until I can face painting 3 Juggernaughts in the same colours (one's had a red basecoat in the background the others are still on sprues)

shoplifter
May 23, 2001

bored before I even began
Any suggestions on an ultrasonic cleaner? I have a bunch of terribly painted metal and plastic models I've picked up second hand and want to get them cleaned off as efficiently as possible. I need to be able to get a rhino-sized model in.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

shoplifter posted:

Any suggestions on an ultrasonic cleaner? I have a bunch of terribly painted metal and plastic models I've picked up second hand and want to get them cleaned off as efficiently as possible. I need to be able to get a rhino-sized model in.

Having bought one at a yard sale, I'd say skip it. They aren't that useful. I clean my glasses and watch band in it more often than minis.

Super Clean engine degreaser (used with gloves) and a tooth brush should bring back any model that can be salvaged.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

shoplifter posted:

Any suggestions on an ultrasonic cleaner? I have a bunch of terribly painted metal and plastic models I've picked up second hand and want to get them cleaned off as efficiently as possible. I need to be able to get a rhino-sized model in.

I agree with Indolent Bastard. Ultrasonic cleaners are alright for cleaning dirt and accumulations in tight areas, but they don't really do much for removing paint, which adheres to the surface of the model. Super Clean is your best bet - you're not going to get out of the scrubbing on this one, bud.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon
I was thinking of getting one more for cleaning the airbrush.

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

I was thinking of getting one more for cleaning the airbrush.

That might be ok. I haven't tried that application yet. My advice is check charity shops and see what you can find. Ultrasonic cleaners are definitely on the hobby toys that would be fun to have but you really don't need list.

Ayn Marx
Dec 21, 2012

I'm going crazy basecoating all that green on my Raptors. Is this set a good idea?

https://www.pk-pro.de/Airbrush-Starter-Set-02_1

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Update on the Maw-Krusha. I tried yellow last night with the purple, and i didn't really like how it turned out. It looked too much like an NFL uniform.

instead, I went with Abaddon Black and drybrushed Mechanicus Standard Gray. I need to clean some spots up, but the black/purple works.

shoplifter
May 23, 2001

bored before I even began

berzerkmonkey posted:

I agree with Indolent Bastard. Ultrasonic cleaners are alright for cleaning dirt and accumulations in tight areas, but they don't really do much for removing paint, which adheres to the surface of the model. Super Clean is your best bet - you're not going to get out of the scrubbing on this one, bud.

I've read a few accounts of folks using them with Super Clean/Simple Green with good results, which is why I asked.

Either way, appreciate the responses.

Bistromatic
Oct 3, 2004

And turn the inner eye
To see its path...

Ayn Marx posted:

I'm going crazy basecoating all that green on my Raptors. Is this set a good idea?

https://www.pk-pro.de/Airbrush-Starter-Set-02_1

Personally i'd splurge a bit more and get one of the H&S starter sets. I loving love my Evolution and never get tired of telling people so. It lasted me over 15 years with only some seal replacements so far.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005
This is the kit I point people towards.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
I've run mine with both Purple Power or LA Cleaner (mixed 50/50 with water) and it'll get a good 95% of paint off. There might be some stuck in nooks and crannies that you need to use some scrubbing power to get out, but otherwise saves a lot of work. The utility ultimately will depend on if you are regularly buying salvage models to strip or you have something to clean on the regular like an airbrush. One that's vehicle sized might be too much to really be worth it, though.

I did finally mess around with my Patriot airbrush and sort out my issues with it. Mostly just came down to it being less forgiving in trigger sensitivity exasperated in part by the 105's omission of a needle stop. I added a big ol' trigger extension so less finger movement translates to needle movement and it's much more precise. Also previously I was using Liquitex Airbrush Thinner and have lately been using thread recommended Vallejo Airbrush Medium and it's an improvement in keeping down spattering, though the Patriot is still a little touchier about the tip drying.

Moonwolf
Jun 29, 2004

Flee from th' terrifyin' evil of "NHS"!


TTerrible posted:

This is the kit I point people towards.

That's the one I bought a few weeks ago, it's really solid and the compressor's pretty quiet.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

shoplifter posted:

I've read a few accounts of folks using them with Super Clean/Simple Green with good results, which is why I asked.

Either way, appreciate the responses.

Honestly, I feel that is more due to the stripping properties of Super Clean/Simple Green, rather than the ultrasonic cleaner. I'm not going to try to discount anyone's personal experience, but in my experience, it really didn't do a whole lot more than a model sitting in a jar did.

Related to stripping, I picked up a set of brass and copper brushes due to my Steel Legion having all sorts of weird residue on them after paint removal. The brushes worked really, really well at getting the crap off the models and were soft enough not to cause any surface damage (though I wouldn't recommend them for plastics.) The addition of the small bristle end was great for getting into tight crevices and in the goggle-less recesses of their faces.

Ayn Marx
Dec 21, 2012

Bistromatic posted:

Personally i'd splurge a bit more and get one of the H&S starter sets. I loving love my Evolution and never get tired of telling people so. It lasted me over 15 years with only some seal replacements so far.

https://www.pk-pro.de/H-S-Evolution-Silverline-2in1-Starter-Set-01_1

Something like that maybe?

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

You really want a compressor with a tank. Lacking the tank will make your pressure vary and the compressor run constantly, rather than just occasionally filling the tank.

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.
Still some finishing touches left to do on the bases, but I finished my first two Janissaries (a Missile Launcher and an Akbar Doctor):



Immanentized
Mar 17, 2009
I'm having a weird issue with my brushes, mostly with the tips hooking.
From my google searches, it looks like I'm doing everything right in the use, cleaning, and storage area, but my Army Painter and Princeton synthetics are all developing a nasty curl after about 5-6 usages at around 2-3 hours each.
Would ambient humidity or heat play into this at all? I do the normal rinse, soap, shape, rinse, dry bit after each color change, but I notice that every once in a while I'll have the paint go tacky on the brush itself.

It's immensely frustrating and I want to nip it in the bud before it gets too expensive.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Immanentized posted:

I'm having a weird issue with my brushes, mostly with the tips hooking.
From my google searches, it looks like I'm doing everything right in the use, cleaning, and storage area, but my Army Painter and Princeton synthetics are all developing a nasty curl after about 5-6 usages at around 2-3 hours each.
Would ambient humidity or heat play into this at all? I do the normal rinse, soap, shape, rinse, dry bit after each color change, but I notice that every once in a while I'll have the paint go tacky on the brush itself.

It's immensely frustrating and I want to nip it in the bud before it gets too expensive.

The problem is the synthetics - they get tip curl after a while. Sable brushes tend not to have that issue.

Dr. Gargunza
May 19, 2011

He damned me for a eunuch,
and my mother for a whore.



Fun Shoe

Ilor posted:

Still some finishing touches left to do on the bases, but I finished my first two Janissaries (a Missile Launcher and an Akbar Doctor):





Really digging that green scheme (despite its brightness sort of defeating the purpose of camouflage, but whatev, it's space fights).

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
Finished off the Bloodletters



And nearly finished Uncle Chuckles. I need to tidy the highlights on the skin a bit (thanks to the camera for showing me that)

dr_ether
May 31, 2013

Finished my Crypt Flayers.













richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

dr_ether posted:

Finished my Crypt Flayers.















That's some lovely ethereal deadmans. The blending on those wings is awesome.

Chill la Chill
Jul 2, 2007

Don't lose your gay


Immanentized posted:

I'm having a weird issue with my brushes, mostly with the tips hooking.
From my google searches, it looks like I'm doing everything right in the use, cleaning, and storage area, but my Army Painter and Princeton synthetics are all developing a nasty curl after about 5-6 usages at around 2-3 hours each.
Would ambient humidity or heat play into this at all? I do the normal rinse, soap, shape, rinse, dry bit after each color change, but I notice that every once in a while I'll have the paint go tacky on the brush itself.

It's immensely frustrating and I want to nip it in the bud before it gets too expensive.

Yeah, what bm said, but if you're willing to work with them, I found I actually loved the couple of tip curl brushes I had because they are amazing for freehand. I don't know what it is, probably a different angle, but I love using them for designs that I can't easily put down with a normal brush.

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GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

Immanentized posted:

I'm having a weird issue with my brushes, mostly with the tips hooking.
From my google searches, it looks like I'm doing everything right in the use, cleaning, and storage area, but my Army Painter and Princeton synthetics are all developing a nasty curl after about 5-6 usages at around 2-3 hours each.
Would ambient humidity or heat play into this at all? I do the normal rinse, soap, shape, rinse, dry bit after each color change, but I notice that every once in a while I'll have the paint go tacky on the brush itself.

It's immensely frustrating and I want to nip it in the bud before it gets too expensive.

FWIW my Army Painter brushes did the same thing, and significantly worse than any of my GW synthetics, which have generally been fine. And obviously the sable Winsor & Newtons don't curl at all.

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