|
Katosabi posted:Did the bolt go in tight like it was crossthreaded or just snap when you went to tighten it? My first step to remove this would be reverse drill bits like you've done, then I would try welding it out by building up the bolt slowly and welding a nut onto it. If all that failed I'd resort to a $70 timesert kit. From what I can see of pictures online, it looks like there's plenty of meat for a timesert. Personally I wouldn't try welding just because of the ease of loving it up. Assuming the shop tried stud extractors to move it my next step would be to hammer a cheap Torx bit into the hole and reinforce it with a bit of epoxy, and see if that can shift it. The nuclear option is to use successively larger left-hand bits (at slow speed, going too mad will just heat the bolt up enough to expand it and make it even tighter) until it either shifts out or just falls to pieces. Make sure to chill the bolt down between tries (a can of air duster held upside down is ideal, although obviously let the propellant dry before drilling again). Of course once you take this option you will have to drill the thread out and pop in a helicoil and of course change the oil (maybe flush it through a few times) because there *will* be swarf inside the engine, but a bolt that stuck will have almost certainly hosed the thread up anyway so it's worth doing it anyway.
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 08:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
Revvik posted:The responses here have me hopeful in not having to part out my SMT because I do love it but there's no justifying spending almost five grand to save it. So thanks for that. Post a picture, please. I'm not sure I understand exactly how much bolt is left and that would be helpful in terms of providing the most useful advice.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 15:38
|
|
|
babyeatingpsychopath posted:I just got rid of the cable-driven tach and speedo on my 1976 Honda GL1000. Is there a specific product designed for closing off those holes? My current plan is to cut the ends off the old cables, plug the hole with JBWeld, and screw it back in, just so junk doesn't get into the front wheel hub or fuel pump gear. So THIS is what PO fuckery looks like.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 16:06
|
|
|
builds character posted:Post a picture, please. I'm not sure I understand exactly how much bolt is left and that would be helpful in terms of providing the most useful advice.      It's like that. Just got it back today.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 21:24
|
|
|
Revvik posted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 22:01
|
|
|
At this point I'd drill them out and helicoil (cheaper) or time-sert (better) the holes. You've already invested enough time and effort into it to make that worthwhile. If you ruin the cases, well, the mechanics were already telling you to do that for some unfathomable reason. To not ruin the cases, drill SLOWLY and make sure you have the drill dead straight. (also even if you do blow through or gently caress it up you can still fix it with a TIG welder after splitting the cases  )
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 22:05
|
|
|
Fuckin lmao Sagebrush posted:At this point I'd drill them out and helicoil (cheaper) or time-sert (better) the holes. You've already invested enough time and effort into it to make that worthwhile. If you ruin the cases, well, the mechanics were already telling you to do that for some unfathomable reason. I'm 99% sure this is what my friends and I will be doing tomorrow afternoon. If we gently caress it up, yeah, new cases are $2k ish but a used engine is the same, shipped, and I'll have mine for spare parts and a long winter to get one running engine. I'm feeling better about this. Which is good, because I'm not exactly going to be able to replace this until after I move out of state.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 22:16
|
|
|
Someone didn't do you any favors by drilling it off to the side like that, it makes it extremely hard to remove the rest while keeping enough aluminum to timesert or helicoil using the size that was in there. I'm still an advocate of trying to weld it out if you know anyone with some finesse. Drilling at this point is going to shove the drill bit to the side and take out more aluminum than you want. Also, what's going on with that left hole? It looks equally messed up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 22:52
|
|
|
That shop shouldn't be working on motorcycles. Extracting bolts like that should be easy work for people that work on bikes all the time. The drill job they did do was shameful as well, if you haven't already, you should bitch at whomever is the owner/manager/etc for that poo poo job they did. Start with very small bits and get most of the material out of there, then I'd probably just tap new threads at whatever the original bolt size was. Aluminum is pretty soft, and it's not like that part is under a bunch of pressure. I'm not sure you really need to helicoil that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 23:26
|
|
|
lordy
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 00:41
|
|
|
n8r posted:That shop shouldn't be working on motorcycles. Extracting bolts like that should be easy work for people that work on bikes all the time. The drill job they did do was shameful as well, if you haven't already, you should bitch at whomever is the owner/manager/etc for that poo poo job they did. Start with very small bits and get most of the material out of there, then I'd probably just tap new threads at whatever the original bolt size was. Aluminum is pretty soft, and it's not like that part is under a bunch of pressure. I'm not sure you really need to helicoil that. Yeah, if they did that they should feel bad. If you did that, you messed it up but at least you're not a pro shop so it's not shocking. Anyway, have you tried spraying a ton of penetrating oil on it already? Heating? I'm a little surprised they haven't come out already with a reverse drill bit given it's not a high-torque application. If you're drilling it, do you have access to something that could hold the drill in place? As folks have mentioned, on the right your issue is going to be that the hole is off center and you're going to chew into the aluminum. If you can use an appropriately sized reverse bit (and heat and penetrating oil) I'd think you might still be able to extract what's left of the bolt. If not, you might also try a dremel. If you have a steady hand you can grind out what's left of the inside enough such that with a punch you should be able to collapse the bolt. Just pick an edge and smash it in. So, my suggestion is 1. penetrating oil 2. heat 3. reverse drill bit (again). 4. try using a punch. I've never gotten this to work but supposedly folks on the internet have. 5. hammering in a torx bit and trying to undo it that way. I've also had luck if there's enough at any point that you can grab it with a vise grip to do it that way. 6. either drilling it out or dremeling it out and then trying to punch it in to collapse the shell of bolt. 7. if none of this works, you don't need new cases. Just take out the engine, take it to a machine shop (or someone else with access to a drill press, maybe try asking on advrider or thumpertalk) and ask them to drill it out (bribe them with cash and beer). You don't need a new case, and taking out the engine, while a tremendous pain, is still significantly less bad than splitting the case. There will be some swarf inside from that but just flush the oil a few times and it should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 00:42
|
|
|
A great post that I appreciate. Bookmarking that engine removal page, and it looks like we plan on running down that list tomorrow. Yes I drilled initially, no I'm not a pro shop I'm just a chump snapping bolts off in my engine, I don't even know how the dealership I took it to tried working it over. I've been spraying penetrating oil on it over the course of the day while I get other things done though. I've got a machine shop I can contact; I had already planned on calling them about my other project since I'm basically at the stage where I need them to progress (GS500 front wheel hollowed out / front disc adapter made / rear disc trimmed down).
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 02:09
|
|
|
  They're out. In 15 minutes. Threads are intact. gently caress that shop for everything. My return oil line is toast but I had one ship out yesterday. I'll be back on the road when it gets here.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:03
|
|
|
Never ever trust a shop tbh
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:35
|
|
|
M42 posted:Never ever trust a shop tbh This. And I used to be a motorcycle mechanic. For the most part, shops just don't want to deal with your poo poo. They're there to make money. Oil changes, tire changes, carb cleans. Bikes that are well maintained are the bread and butter of a shop. Engine rebuilds, custom poo poo, rewiring this that or the other... that's not where you make any money. We'd really prefer you just take it home and gently caress it up yourself. Most dealerships have a 10 year rule. Nothing older than 10 years gets in their shop (discretionary of course). I spent 6 loving weeks on this goddamn 80's DOHC honda that was a total piece of poo poo. I told the guy every step of the way that he couldn't afford to bring it back to life and to get something decent instead. Nope. He insisted. Eventually, when he was like $2000 into labor costs, we said "look. you gotta pay us for what you currently owe, before we will proceed any further." Dude didn't pay. Didn't even bother trying. he just mailed us the title. Anywho I forgot where I was going with this story. But yeah gently caress taking poo poo like that to a shop. If you can't do it, they probably can't either. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Aug 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 23:30
|
|
|
Yay! What was the eventual secret? Just lots of time soaking in the PB Blaster or whatever and then more reverse-bit drilling?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 23:48
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This. There is nothing more dangerous in this game than a middle aged man who thinks he's gotten a good deal. Doesn't matter if it's a $500 Chinese scooter or a $5000 clapped out ducati, it always costs too much and they can never accept that they made a mistake and they need to pull out now. If your bike is old and hosed and has problems, a shop will not solve those problems for the reasons succinctly stated above. The lesson here is don't buy old bikes of any kind unless you're looking for a project or really know what you're doing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 01:32
|
|
|
I mean, sure, all of that, but this is a 2013...Sagebrush posted:Yay! What was the eventual secret? Just lots of time soaking in the PB Blaster or whatever and then more reverse-bit drilling? Way steadier hands, more practice, and better tools for it than I could find over the weekend at Lowe's. And yeah it soaked for far longer in PB while I waited for them to get here. He was able to drill his pilot hole around my crooked one, even.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 02:22
|
|
|
are all KTMs so wonderful or did you really luck out?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 04:47
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This. Ha! I remember you telling this story a while back but forgot the ending. That is loving rich. What a knob.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 05:13
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:are all KTMs so wonderful or did you really luck out? They're all equally wonderful but in completely different ways. Do other SMT owners experience random bullshit problems? Hell yeah. Do other SMT owners experience that exact problem? Almost certainly not.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 07:53
|
|
|
Revvik posted:He was able to drill his pilot hole around my crooked one, even. Well, hopefully he bought you dinner first! HAHA BECAUSE
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 17:08
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:They're all equally wonderful but in completely different ways. Do other SMT owners experience random bullshit problems? Hell yeah. Do other SMT owners experience that exact problem? Almost certainly not. I really don't think this sort of thing happening to nuts is a strictly KTM experience. It's just a thing that can happen.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 17:23
|
|
|
Would I be an idiot to go to one of those car wash places where they give you a pressure washer in the stall you pull up into and just washing my bike that way? I've never had to think about washing my bike before but now that I am I am realizing I have no idea what I am doing. That certainly seems like the easiest, laziest way to me (yes yes, avoid the chain obviously)
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:04
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Ha! I remember you telling this story a while back but forgot the ending. That is loving rich. What a knob. So... Basically it started when I had to pull the motor to drill out 3 loving camshaft holder bolts that were snapped off in there. I told him straight up "dude this motor is loving trash. And then I found out that there's 3 cam bolts broken, so besides being trash, it's basically also ruined." But the guy was young and stupid and had cafe-racers on the brain. Another Cafe-racer dude brought in a Virago that he wanted to cafe, but basically wanted us to do all the work that he couldn't. Everything he had done was great, actually. Powdercoated frame. Polished engine. Nice parts. Tastefully done. But he couldn't get the fucker to start, because... well... it's a loving virago. He'd already burned through one starter. Brought in another starter and wanted it replaced. I told him straight up, that his starter clutch was probably hosed just like every other goddamn virago. He wouldn't listen. We swapped the starter and added a shim kit. It didn't work. Then it broke. We bought another starter. Wash. Rinse. Repeat. I told him that this is just going to continue to be a problem with this motor but he wouldn't listen. He eventually finished and sold the bike but I'm sure the dude who bought it came right back the first time he tried to start it. Anywho, the reason he was the worst is because he showed back up at the shop with ANOTHER project and a couple or three NSR250's that were basically fresh out of the crate, never had gas in them and never been started. He wanted them torn down and checked for some reason? And then put back together without so much as a greasy fingerprint on anything. Then he had another NSR250 which was several kinds of fuckered he wanted to get running. The absolute worst loving one was this other guy who had "the Spidey Bike" It was a Kawi 636 that was sprayed matte black and then had a bunch of rimtape all over the loving thing to make it look like it was covered in spiderwebs. That fucker was so bad. There was speaker wire being used as electrical wire for all the stupid loving LEDs all over the bike. Everything was wired directly to the battery. There were loose wires hanging out all over the bike. He rolled it in one time and started a fire in the shop.  A 'speaker wire' that wasn't actually a speaker wire was grounding against the forks and melted the wire and some of the plastic fender. I managed to figure out what the gently caress was going on real quick and ripped the seat off and cut the battery ground with bolt cutters before he burned the loving place down. He blamed us and told us we had to rewire the whole bike.Okay a bit of backstory here: the guy was a complete dickface, yes. But he was also PreZident of a local motorcycle gang/club/whatever that had a lot of members. He threatened to blacklist us from his clan and my boss probably felt like he couldn't afford to get any bad publicity or lose any customers. Despite the fact that only like 3 other members actually came to our shop for any service, and would probably still come back anyway even if we were blackballed. Anywho, despite his terrible loving attitude I agreed to rewire his bike "because it would be a real shame if you continued to ride this piece of poo poo and managed to get My boss also put in a ridiculous amount of hours tearing bullshit out of that bike and getting it 'safe' as well as customizing it with whatever stupid loving stick-on poo poo and spikey fairing bolts and LEDs and rimtape and speakers and whatever... So we're all done with the fire hazard. We send it off and he comes back like a week later bitching that we caused this oil leak that he is now seeing. I pointed to the oil stain on the floor where his bike had sat for a week while we worked and told him that his bike was leaking before he brought it in and almost burnt down our shop. He relented a bit, but still insisted we fix it for just the cost of parts. Again, my boss agreed and here we go. I took one look and said "nope." It was leaking oil around the shifter seal but the whole goddamn shaft was loose in there. Something was turbo hosed in there and I did not want to deal with it. Boss just said "just replace the seal and send him on his way" Now, I don't know if you guys are familiar with the 636, but you're supposed to pull the motor to be able to get those seals out. That's a lot of hours. I explained this to the guy, and to my boss and they were both "well that sucks, but it needs to be done." Of course after he left, I just punched a hole in the old seal and used some dental picks and a screw to get it out. I tapped the new one in with a deep-well socket and the old seal and boom, done. 30 minutes. He eventually picks up the bike. Then comes back a day later bitching about the oil leak again. Guess why? His case bearings around the shifter are completely hosed (as I had previously mentioned to my boss.) So it's at THIS point that my boss starts to push back a bit. Telling him to buy a new motor, and we'll swap it for free. His 46k 636 motor is beat to poo poo from stunting anyway... He insists we rebuild it, and guess what? We do. Of course one of the goddamn case bolts that goes in right around the #3 piston snapped off in the loving case when we were taking them out. We didn't even try to get that out. Boss said, "gently caress it if you can get even one thread on that bolt, just reuse it." So I pull the motor apart and it is hosed 6 ways to sunday. It needs new everything and is basically scrap metal. The gears are all chewed up, shift forks bent, camshaft bearings are scarred all to poo poo pistons are scored all over the loving place, cylinder bores are fuckered, valves are toast, all the case bearings need replaced etc... This motor is loving beat. But, he insists, my boss relents, and I fix. I quit shortly after that and went back to working in IT. Apparently after fixing all that poo poo he went and grenaded the rebuilt motor anyway and made my boss buy him a new one off ebay. I've got a ton more horror stories that I'll save for another time. Some really good ones involve turbo and formerly turbo Hayabusas. My favorite was one guy who insisted on an engine rebuild but eventually just settled for a new cam-chain tensioner.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:17
|
|
|
Knifegrab posted:Would I be an idiot to go to one of those car wash places where they give you a pressure washer in the stall you pull up into and just washing my bike that way? I've never had to think about washing my bike before but now that I am I am realizing I have no idea what I am doing. That certainly seems like the easiest, laziest way to me (yes yes, avoid the chain obviously) Pressure washing is fine for a quick freshen up as long as you know what you're doing* but you won't be able to get the bike as properly clean as you will if you do it properly**. Also you won't really have a chance to do a walkaround the bike to check things like tyre pressure, brake pad life, chain tension, etc. * Don't get too close - if you feel more recoil from the lance you're too close. Try to avoid squirting from anywhere that water wouldn't normally get to on your bike (i.e. only hit it from above and the front), be extremely careful around wheel bearings, swingarm mounts, and where your battery and electronics live, and of course don't get water into your exhaust. ** You don't have to get really anal about it - my Sunday ritual is: - bike up on stand - rinse down with a hose - squirt around Muc Off or your chosen cleaner - quick brush of the wheels, brake disks and calipers (check pads while you're there), undertray and other places that get particularly grimy with an alloy wheel brush and more Muc-Off (or use an old toothbrush for really tricky places) - rinse down with hose - clean chain (get one of those three-sided brushes and some mild dish soap, takes thirty seconds - adhust chain if necessary - lube chain - once they're dry, wipe down shiny areas with your chosen polish (furniture polish with beeswax is fine) - wipe down non-shiny areas likely to get dirty with WD40 - quick squirt of brake cleaner on the disks, check the buttons are loose - off stand, check tyre pressures, squirt of Rain-X on headlights and mirrors Takes about 15 minutes if you don't need to lube the chain. Never squirt polish, WD40, or brake cleaner on directly because they all have a tendency to get into places you want them to be, squirt them on to a microfibre cloth and apply them to the part that way. Obviously use different cloths for different chemicals. Of course if you don't have access to a hose you can do all this with buckets of water. If you're about to do a long trip or you've just not done it for a while, spend another half hour checking all your nuts and bolts are tight (a little dab of clear nail varnish between the bolt and the surround will show immediately if they're backing out) and use a proper polish like Turtle Wax or similar (don't use it on non-glossy plastic as it'll leave a white deposit that's an utter pig to move, surprisingly I've found the best thing to move it is one of those magic eraser sponges), don't forget to check your battery terminals and earth strap while you're there.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:33
|
|
|
Knifegrab posted:Would I be an idiot to go to one of those car wash places where they give you a pressure washer in the stall you pull up into and just washing my bike that way? I've never had to think about washing my bike before but now that I am I am realizing I have no idea what I am doing. That certainly seems like the easiest, laziest way to me (yes yes, avoid the chain obviously) No, there's nothing inherently wrong with that, but don't use the high-pressure trigger setting. Motorcycles have a lot more exposed parts than cars, and with a pressure washer you can easily accidentally force water past gaskets and seals into places it shouldn't be. Personally, given the small amount of surface area to cover, I just wash my bikes with a bucket of soapy water and some kitchen sponges. goddamnedtwisto posted:be extremely careful around wheel bearings, swingarm mounts, and where your battery and electronics live, and of course don't get water into your exhaust. Not shooting water into bearings and electronics is a good idea, but water in the exhaust isn't a problem. It'll just burp back out as soon as you fire up the engine, and any remnants will quickly boil off. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Aug 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:38
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Pressure washing is fine for a quick freshen up as long as you know what you're doing* but you won't be able to get the bike as properly clean as you will if you do it properly**. Also you won't really have a chance to do a walkaround the bike to check things like tyre pressure, brake pad life, chain tension, etc. So life has taken hold of me, and I am putting my bike into storage, and I just wanted it to be somewhat clean before I threw a cover onto it. I appreciate the insight, and I will consider doing a full proper wash!
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:38
|
|
|
Also wd40 is extremely good at getting grease and road grime off your wheels and chainguard and where ever else it gets slung.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Not shooting water into bearings and electronics is a good idea, but water in the exhaust isn't a problem. It'll just burp back out as soon as you fire up the engine, and any remnants will quickly boil off. Yeah, I've never been sure about that bit myself and I suspect the horror stories I've heard of fluid hammer blowing out baffles or welds have more to do with poo poo-quality aftermarket exhausts that would have done that anyway, but most manuals do caution against getting water in the exhausts.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 22:33
|
|
|
Knifegrab posted:So life has taken hold of me, and I am putting my bike into storage, and I just wanted it to be somewhat clean before I threw a cover onto it. I appreciate the insight, and I will consider doing a full proper wash! In that case a decent wax and a smear of light oil on exposed metal (not the brakes, obviously) and fasteners will help keep it fresh for when you realise bikes are important than so-called "life". If it's going to be stored for a while there are specialist treatments you can buy... don't bother. They probably do a good enough job but they're a loving nightmare to put on and even worse to take off. Just make sure you run it round the block every couple of weeks just to keep the rubber bits in good nick.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 22:40
|
|
|
captainOrbital posted:Well, hopefully he bought you dinner first! Ha. Slavvy posted:They're all equally wonderful but in completely different ways. Do other SMT owners experience random bullshit problems? Hell yeah. Do other SMT owners experience that exact problem? Almost certainly not. The primary annoyance from SMTs, other than a lack of direction for the model, is a squealing rear brake. Keeping it clean and replacing the pads with not-poo poo pads seems to cut that down. I swear it's a good bike.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 01:05
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:They're all equally wonderful but in completely different ways. Do other SMT owners experience random bullshit problems? Hell yeah. Do other SMT owners experience that exact problem? Almost certainly not. Part of being Ready to Race! is the assumption that you will be bringing a fully staffed pit crew with you everywhere you ride.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 06:53
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This. This makes me apprehensive about getting my VFR's 24k service with valve clearance check..
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 11:05
|
|
|
Doesn't the financial aspect of VFR valve checks make doing them debateable? Like it's cheaper to just run it until it eats a valve and replace the whole thing?
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 16:35
|
|
|
Dutymode posted:Doesn't the financial aspect of VFR valve checks make doing them debateable? Like it's cheaper to just run it until it eats a valve and replace the whole thing? Depends on the year. 5th gens can easily go 50k if you don't ride like a donk and miss shifts and poo poo. But finding any replacement parts is gonna be expensive as gently caress. Barnsy posted:This makes me apprehensive about getting my VFR's 24k service with valve clearance check.. Don't worry. Any half decent shop should be able to check the valves with no problems. I put valve checks on the same level as brake pad changes. It's only a problem if they need to swap the shims. Then it's either take it to a specialist or DIY. and even then, that's only for the gear driven cams. The rest aren't a problem.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 18:26
|
|
|
Works Performance is out of business. The Works Performance shocks on my Triumph Scrambler are (past) due for a rebuild/servicing. RaceTech says they have a small collection of rebuild parts but since Works Performance is gone, they can't get any more parts, so they may or may not have the pieces to rebuild my shocks. Traxxion Dynamics recommends Bitubos for shocks, even over more expensive offerings they sell, such as Penske. Options available: * Roll the dice and see if RaceTech can rebuild the existing shocks for $300 and punt on getting new shocks for another few years * Buy Bitubos for something like $500 for a pair * Buy one of the many higher end offerings: Penske, Ohlins, RaceTech G3-S, Nitron, etc... which all look to be around a grand for a pair I'm leaning to the Bitubo option, mostly because I can keep dealing with Traxxion Dynamics because they are so much nicer to deal with than any other suspension company I've talked to. Sadly due to the aftermarket exhaust and sidecar mounts I can't really go with a piggyback style external reservoir so I'm limited in choices. Any other options I'm missing? Anything jumps out as the best option to everyone?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 05:30
|
|
|
  New oil return line.  New bolts threaded in snug for the filter cover.  Old line. I don't really have any questions and this probably belongs in the WDYDTYMT thread but this is where I'm at with my initial question, and more oil comes in tomorrow to refill the engine and I can move on from this. Unbelievable.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 06:07
|
|
|
I thought steel braided lines are usually sleeved or coated so they dont grind through whatever they are touching. Did they wear through each other?
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 06:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 21:11 |
|
|
Skier posted:Works Performance is out of business. The Works Performance shocks on my Triumph Scrambler are (past) due for a rebuild/servicing. RaceTech says they have a small collection of rebuild parts but since Works Performance is gone, they can't get any more parts, so they may or may not have the pieces to rebuild my shocks. The Bitubos are fine, go with those.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 06:16
|
|
