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telcoM posted:It's a trap!  Duh. It hadn't even crossed my mind that it was a trap, because there's nothing to trap in this setup. The drain is nowhere near airtight on the other end; it flows horizontally out of the side of hill like a gutter over the sump (which I've been considering trying to figure out how to turn into a rain garden, but that's not a this year project). Seems like nothing of value will be lost. I'll drill some perforations into the underside of the lid, and if that's not enough, then I'll grab the cold chisel. I'll keep the center part undrilled for now, the trap will still do an adequate job of catching small bits of debris that way, and that's never been the source of flow problems. hey girl you up fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Aug 20, 2017 |
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Aug 20, 2017 17:26
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I was trying to fix a wobbly toilet, which seemed like a job that even I (a complete newbie) could DIY with some videos. Unfortunately, I ran into some issues and am not sure how to proceed. image album is here. Basically, it looks like the flange was damaged. Rather than fixing it, the edge of the flange was tiled over (probably during a renovation) and a wax cylinder was placed over it. Then the toilet was screwed down into what I assume is the sub floor (I can't get good visibility here). The flange sits below the tile. I'm trying to figure out if I can fix this with a simple flange repair kit or if I'm going to need to do something about the tile. More critically, i really need to know if I should be calling a plumber before i groverhaus myself. Thanks!
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Aug 20, 2017 20:15
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ryde posted:I was trying to fix a wobbly toilet, which seemed like a job that even I (a complete newbie) could DIY with some videos. Unfortunately, I ran into some issues and am not sure how to proceed. A flange repair kit would work but i'd be curious to see the tiled flange. You can always chip a little tile out of the way but if its up to the metal flange ring you are fine. Make sure you use a wax ring with a horn to help with the difference in flange height.
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Aug 20, 2017 23:23
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hey girl you up posted:
I think the idea is that solid matter will tend to get dropped into the perimeter trough, leaving the liquids to drain over the edge. Sorta like a septic holding tank. Was there ever a butcher shop at this property?
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Aug 21, 2017 00:21
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hey girl you up posted:Seems like nothing of value will be lost. I'll drill some perforations into the underside of the lid, and if that's not enough, then I'll grab the cold chisel. I'll keep the center part undrilled for now, the trap will still do an adequate job of catching small bits of debris that way, and that's never been the source of flow problems. My first idea would have been to grab an angle grinder with a cutting disc and make some sparks. But that's me being originally a farm boy... we sometimes needed to unfuck farm equipment in a hurry, and so we had plenty of tools an average homeowner would not have. Still, renting an angle grinder for a single afternoon might not cost all that much... (If you decide to do that and have never used an angle grinder before: - Protect your eyes, getting hot crumbs of metal in them is not fun. - Protect your hearing, an angle grinder can be very loud. - Pay attention to where the shower of sparks will go: don't point it at anything ignitable, and adjust the guard so you won't get it on yourself either. Some metals may throw mostly small sparks that will just tickle, but even then there might be a few larger crumbs of red-hot metal among them. You don't want one in your shoe! - If the disc shatters, the pieces will fly away with considerable force: that's the main reason why the guard is there, and that's also why you really don't want to bend the disc while cutting. End safety spiel.)
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Aug 21, 2017 01:07
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telcoM posted:My first idea would have been to grab an angle grinder with a cutting disc and make some sparks. and also WAIT UNTIL IT HAS GOD drat STOPPED before putting it down, and don't put it disc side down
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Aug 21, 2017 01:16
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So I noticed a leak coming from the ceiling of our outside patio. I pulled down some soggy drywall and traced the location of the leak toward the shower area of our second floor master bath. I opened a small area of the ceiling under the bath to get a look at what was going on. Luckily looked like the drain was fine. More trial and error, appears the water is getting through small cracks in the corner of the tiled shower stall. My question is, should I regrout any area with small seam cracks in the shower stall or go a more simple route and run a bead of clear caulk in the corners? Caulk would obviously be a lot quicker and easier but I am not sure if that would be a "bad" decision. Any advice?
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Aug 21, 2017 01:24
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SirPablo posted:So I noticed a leak coming from the ceiling of our outside patio. I pulled down some soggy drywall and traced the location of the leak toward the shower area of our second floor master bath. I opened a small area of the ceiling under the bath to get a look at what was going on. Luckily looked like the drain was fine. More trial and error, appears the water is getting through small cracks in the corner of the tiled shower stall. Also, personal opinion, clear silicon seems to get really gross looking fast. Find caulk/silicon that is a reasonable match with your grout. (Check the tile aisle, rather than the paint/caulk area - Most grout companies sell color matched caulk, so you'll find a good variety of colors there)
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Aug 21, 2017 01:47
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Slugworth posted:The corners should never have been grouted in the first place. Corners shift, grout doesn't. You can probably just caulk right over it, best method would be remove the existing grout and *then* caulk. Thanks for the advice. The cracks/fractures seem relatively small, so I'll try working with the caulk first and hopefully that takes care of the issue. I'll check on the color too, agree that clear can get nasty looking (from what I've experienced myself in past houses). Seems weird it wasn't caulked in the first place.
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Aug 21, 2017 02:04
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I have been looking for an excuse to buy an angle grinder. But I have other stuff I should buy first. And if I perforate it first, chiseling between the perforations won't be too bad. And I can cheat it with an oscillating tool if i get lazy, which is not as good as an angle grinder but will serve in a pinch. But imagine all the other things I could grind! I could grind scrap metal to make sparks fly like all the TV shows do! And, uh... I guess it would make cutting unistrut easier. But if I'm going to use more unistrut, I really should just get a band saw instead...
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Aug 21, 2017 02:05
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ryde posted:I was trying to fix a wobbly toilet, which seemed like a job that even I (a complete newbie) could DIY with some videos. Unfortunately, I ran into some issues and am not sure how to proceed. I have used Danco's hydroseat to repair a few missing/broken toilet flanges. The thing screws to the floor, but farther away than a typical flange repair kit would place the screws. Install it on the top of your tile along with a thin wax ring. The wax ring goes between the repair flange and the ground. It also has the toilet bolts already mounted so no fiddling with getting bolts just right, square the seat and everything falls into place. https://www.danco.com/product/hydroseat-flange-repair/
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Aug 21, 2017 07:16
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The Gardenator posted:I have used Danco's hydroseat to repair a few missing/broken toilet flanges. The thing screws to the floor, but farther away than a typical flange repair kit would place the screws. Install it on the top of your tile along with a thin wax ring. The wax ring goes between the repair flange and the ground. It also has the toilet bolts already mounted so no fiddling with getting bolts just right, square the seat and everything falls into place. Coincidentally, I found that yesterday and picked it up, and it looks like its going to work perfectly. After doing some more cleaning it appears that there's literally no flange here, the pipe edges are bent outward (what I thought was a bit of flange...). It looks like this will get me where I need to be.
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Aug 21, 2017 18:47
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I'm an Australian. I need to replace an S trap toilet. Information is thin on the ground because it's something Big Plumbing doesn't want us to know I guess. That and I'm not meant to do it myself. However I'm not a complete and utter loving idiot. My problem is the pan collar. I've been keeping this toilet together for the past 8 years with more and more sealant on the bowl, and wire, split pins, screws, glue etc in the cistern to hold the parts together. After a recent run of failures I got sick of it and bought a new bog. Trouble is the S trap. The old toilet seems to date from about a week before land based life existed on earth. The S trap goes down inside what looks to be a big terra cotta ring, which I guess could be the head of a big clay pipe. It is maybe 30cm wide at a guess, and sticks up at least 10cm off the floor. the gap between the OD of the S trap and ID of the clay pipe has been filled with cement. The floor of the toilet room is concrete. No idea how thick. The room is 30-40cm off the ground I guess and I don't know how deep below it goes. My problems are: What the hell do I do about this clay monstrosity? Where do I get a collar and how do I fit it to what I assume would end up being a gaping hole if I could remove it flush with the floor?
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Aug 22, 2017 10:36
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So the water here is awful and I've purchased Pur faucet filter, except it doesn't quite go on all the way: I sent customer service an email to see if they have an extender/adapter for this situation. If there's some pipe or something that I could run to the hardware store and pick up for a buck or two that'd be quicker. Any thoughts? The filter is definitely not on all the way- it sprays water everywhere!
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Aug 28, 2017 02:08
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Home depot will have a section full of different types of aerator adapters. No guarantee they will carry what you need (a male to male extension), but they do exist. Otherwise, you could budge together a male to female adapter and then a female to male adapter, or just order what you need off amazon.
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Aug 28, 2017 02:34
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effika posted:So the water here is awful and I've purchased Pur faucet filter, except it doesn't quite go on all the way: Take the old aerator to the hardware store. And use there guide to test what threads the aerator has. Then get an adapter to solve the problem.
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Aug 28, 2017 13:49
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Of course using the aerator as a guide makes sense! Thanks everyone.
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Aug 28, 2017 18:05
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Turd Herder posted:Take the old aerator to the hardware store. And use there guide to test what threads the aerator has. Then get an adapter to solve the problem. I found what size I need, but it doesn't seem to exist? We have an externally threaded (male) faucet that accepts female aerators. It is 55/64" in size. I can't find anything that is female on one end and male on the other without changing sizes. Am I just using the wrong search terms? I might just give up and get a pitcher filter.
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Aug 29, 2017 01:42
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effika posted:I found what size I need, but it doesn't seem to exist? We have an externally threaded (male) faucet that accepts female aerators. It is 55/64" in size. I can't find anything that is female on one end and male on the other without changing sizes. Am I just using the wrong search terms? RO system with a separate tap is definitely the way to go: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-...tion/1000065237
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Aug 29, 2017 01:44
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devicenull posted:RO system with a separate tap is definitely the way to go: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-...tion/1000065237 That's definitely going on the Christmas list! I forgot those things even existed.
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Aug 29, 2017 03:31
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effika posted:I found what size I need, but it doesn't seem to exist? We have an externally threaded (male) faucet that accepts female aerators. It is 55/64" in size. I can't find anything that is female on one end and male on the other without changing sizes. Am I just using the wrong search terms? I've used Grainger for some odd ball sizes but as state below go for an RO. The filter you are installing now only removes lead and chlorine (its a carban filter) an RO will remove 99.9% of all contaminants.
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Aug 29, 2017 13:16
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I installed a new fill valve on my toilet and now whenever I go to sit my massive weight upon it or get up it seems like I disturb the water level and it starts to fill up. In fact if theres a change in water pressure like the sprinkler system turning on or off it causes the fill valve to activate. What did I do wrong? Why is it so sensitive?
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Sep 18, 2017 00:19
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Im Ready for DEATH posted:I installed a new fill valve on my toilet and now whenever I go to sit my massive weight upon it or get up it seems like I disturb the water level and it starts to fill up. In fact if theres a change in water pressure like the sprinkler system turning on or off it causes the fill valve to activate. What did I do wrong? Why is it so sensitive? Could be a couple things. First thing I'd try is turn off the valve under the toilet, then take apart your new fill valve down to its seal inside. It's possible that something got stuck there from the factory or something worked itself loose from the lines while you were working and got stuck right there such that the seal will break from the slightest touch, just for a moment. Other than that, check the action of the float. Make sure it's free and not getting stuck.
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Sep 18, 2017 02:23
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I recently replaced the valves in my shower stall, and now when I turn on the water I'll get a loud "clunk" and the water stops, so I'll have to turn the valves even more to get water flowing. Does this about half the time, any ideas why it's doing that? I also noticed after I installed the valves that one is a good deal shorter than the other, and the shorter one needs more turns to get the water running.
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Sep 20, 2017 02:05
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I recently replaced the valves in my shower stall, and now when I turn on the water I'll get a loud "clunk" and the water stops, so I'll have to turn the valves even more to get water flowing. Does this about half the time, any ideas why it's doing that? I also noticed after I installed the valves that one is a good deal shorter than the other, and the shorter one needs more turns to get the water running. Do you mean that you replaced the stems? Turn off the water, take out the stems and check to make sure that there are no broken rubber washer bits inside. Also, on some shower valves I've seen an inner bonnet in addition to the packing nut. You might want to check if you have those and if so, make sure that they're screwed in all the way. They can cause turn wackiness like that. As for the length, did you get different length stems? They do make stem extensions if you need them.
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Sep 20, 2017 03:49
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I just replaced the entire valves since they were original. Also put new seats in too. Yeah the stems are different lengths, but I didn't notice it until I installed them. Not a big deal really.
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Sep 21, 2017 04:27
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I just replaced the entire valves since they were original. Also put new seats in too. Valves come with stems and seats. Did you just replace the stems?
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Sep 22, 2017 00:01
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Applebees Appetizer posted:valves This word. I don't think it means, what you think it means.
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Sep 22, 2017 06:36
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Hi, I'm not that smart when it comes to fixing a stool. But, I have a problem. The back of the toilet's reservoir has a small black rubber hose that keeps pumping water regardless of the tank's fill line. At one point it started to even overflow. I do not know that the cause is. What may be the problem? Would pictures help?
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Sep 24, 2017 05:31
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PYROxSYCO posted:Hi, I'm not that smart when it comes to fixing a stool. But, I have a problem. The back of the toilet's reservoir has a small black rubber hose that keeps pumping water regardless of the tank's fill line. At one point it started to even overflow. I do not know that the cause is. What may be the problem? Would pictures help? Float could be bad, or it could just be improperly adjusted. Post a picture please.
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Sep 24, 2017 17:59
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PYROxSYCO posted:Hi, I'm not that smart when it comes to fixing a stool. But, I have a problem. The back of the toilet's reservoir has a small black rubber hose that keeps pumping water regardless of the tank's fill line. At one point it started to even overflow. I do not know that the cause is. What may be the problem? Would pictures help? It sounds like your float isn't working. There is either a ball or a cylinder that floats up as the water level rises--you can adjust the level to however much water you'd like in your tank. A few things could be going on: 1) Your float has a hole/crack and is no longer floating. You'll see the float under the water and when you manually lift the float, the water should stop and you'll feel the weight of the water filled float. If this is the case, you'll need to replace the float. 2) The float has wiggled over time so the cutoff is now above the overflow tube. If you lift up the float with your hand, the water should turn off. In this case just adjust the float so it cuts off before the water reaches the overflow. 3) The cutoff valve is shot. If this is the case, the float will be working as designed, but no matter if the float is up or down--water keeps flowing. You'll need to get a toilet repair kit and replace the assembly in the toilet.
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Sep 24, 2017 18:09
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HycoCam posted:words i think my favorite thing about toilet repair is like the entire parts cost of every single thing in the tank, combined, is less than fifty bucks
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Sep 24, 2017 22:48
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hey girl you up posted:I have been looking for an excuse to buy an angle grinder. Related: if you ever need to disassemble an old upright piano, popping the old strings just below the tuning pegs with an angle grinder is quick, easy, safe, and makes noises that I wish I had recorded for future generations of black metal and industrial bands to sample. RIP, world's ugliest piano.
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Sep 25, 2017 00:45
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 I have two washing machines sharing one drain line. I want to install a separate drain, and therefore I believe a second p trap. My initial plan was to cut out some of the existing vertical drain (which connects to a stack), and simply install a second branch drain. But, is that bad to have two separate tees and p traps on one vertical stack? Air bubbles and stuff? Do I need to remove the existing branch, then install a double sanitary tee?
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Sep 26, 2017 07:38
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Nifty posted:
Most likely if you run back to back combo or Tee you will get suds out of the one not being used. I believe to cut in another tee you need it 8 feet away from a suds producing fixture. Why are you running two machines?
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Sep 26, 2017 13:53
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Turd Herder posted:
Probably owns a two family with separate laundry in the basement.
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Sep 28, 2017 01:04
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kid sinister posted:Valves come with stems and seats. Did you just replace the stems? Yes, the stem assembly along with new seats. Did it again today, audible clunk, then water shuts off and I have to open it more to get the water going again. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 05:09
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Turd Herder posted:Most likely if you run back to back combo or Tee you will get suds out of the one not being used. I believe to cut in another tee you need it 8 feet away from a suds producing fixture. Yeah its a duplex, so two machines. I was reading a general home repair book and came upon this photo. Here are two p traps right above one another on a vent line - how is that different/better than the added tee/p trap I am contemplating? 
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Sep 28, 2017 05:22
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Nifty posted:Yeah its a duplex, so two machines. I was reading a general home repair book and came upon this photo. Here are two p traps right above one another on a vent line - how is that different/better than the added tee/p trap I am contemplating?
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Sep 28, 2017 05:31
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HycoCam posted:Are the washers backing up the drain/not draining fast enough when both drain at the same time? i.e. why do all the work? Yeah theres been one overflow. I augered and no clog. Then tested and it drained, though it does seem slow. I haven't ran both washers at the same time, and that's the real test (it's a rental so I don't want to gently caress with their washers too much). Hardware store lady advised using a chemical cleaner to get rid of lint built up in drain, and go on with my day
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Sep 28, 2017 06:22
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