|
Fauxtool posted:I thought steel braided lines are usually sleeved or coated so they dont grind through whatever they are touching. Did they wear through each other? Brake lines yes because they move and flex. Oil lines don't move and they don't rub if they're fitted correctly. I've never seen braided oil lines with any kind of coating.
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 06:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 15:15 |
|
|
Yeah there was nothing coating these and I'm not sure why it shredded the way it did. I'm gonna go with a KTM rep crept into my garage while I slept and filed it down in an effort to get me to buy a new bike. Jokes on him, I'm poor af.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 07:00
|
|
|
Revvik posted:Yeah there was nothing coating these and I'm not sure why it shredded the way it did. I'm gonna go with a KTM rep crept into my garage while I slept and filed it down in an effort to get me to buy a new bike. Jokes on him, I'm poor af. In an abundance of caution you could zip tie on some pieces of old tube for protection.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 13:24
|
|
|
builds character posted:In an abundance of caution you could zip tie on some pieces of old tube for protection. That's actually a good idea. Skier posted:Works Performance is out of business. The Works Performance shocks on my Triumph Scrambler are (past) due for a rebuild/servicing. RaceTech says they have a small collection of rebuild parts but since Works Performance is gone, they can't get any more parts, so they may or may not have the pieces to rebuild my shocks. Given your info and those options, the obvious choice seems to be the Bitubos. Then sell the old shocks for something to offset the cost. If you got $200 for them, and were going to pay $300 anyway, it would work out to be the same. I don't know much about suspension, though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 17:03
|
|
|
How often should I change the oil + filter on my track bike (CBR500)? Everyone seems to suggest different things, though every other weekend seems to be a common practice (seems overkill to me). I use fully synth race motul oil, and do ~140km per track day (we don't have track day weekends down here, as seems to be the case in other places). Don't get close to the rev limiter except on the main straight.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 10:17
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:There are better and worse ones, its up to you to figure out which. The price has no real bearing on quality. The common failure point is from overheating. Get one with enough cooling that will fit in your housing. I talked a lot of poo poo about Fauxtool's suggestions earlier in this thread and some apologies and wrongness are in order. I ended up picking up the other one he recommended, and am very impressed with it, barring a few glaring (hah) issues. https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Wh...BRB8YYRN006PZSZ My needs for this bulb: -Low wattage requirements, since the DR650 stator doesn't have very high output. Scavanging watts in the headlight is cheaper than a high output stator, and I'll need it as soon as I start using a heated jacket this winter. -Low beam needs to be great. I don't care about the high beam as I disconnect the high beam wire to save power, and use my 45 and 10 degree aux lights for high beam. -Cheap? I like the idea of blinging the DR650 out in the cheapest effective way. VS the KTM where I feel I have to pour ungodly amounts of money into bling so that it is perfect in every way. - I mean it, the low beam needs to be really good, with a good spread of light. I use the DR as a commuter, and my classes this semester are at night. -Doesn't blind oncoming traffic. So it seemed like this bulb might fit the bill, and Fauxtool was pretty sold on it. I picked this one over the other one because the reviews were better, and actually had beamshots from a similar motorcycle. For less than $16, I'm game for a try. CONS before I get to gushing about it: -The black mounting ring, that takes all the force of the retaining clip and weight of the lamp, is a flimsy plastic disk. There is already one report of a tab breaking, and I would be shocked if this lasts 3 months before breaking. -The design and build quality level is terrible compared to your $70 lamps. I don't care about finish, since it's going to be hidden away, but I have serious questions to the reliability of the lamp, where I don't in the "leading brand". I have had LED scorching and heat issues in the 3800lum bulb from Cyclops twice now, but none in the 7000lum bulb in an even longer use time. Time will tell and ymmv. -I feel like it blinds other drivers, since it doesn't really work well with the cutoff. Cyclops bulbs are hampered by their need to design around the cutoff, but they really don't blind anyone. Or maybe they do. This bulb isn't worse than every corolla from the last three years, and has a beam spread similar to my old car. -There is no difference between the high and low beams. Seriously. Pros- On to the good stuff! First of all, I'm really sorry for talking poo poo about these LEDs, Fauxtool. I was wrong, and they are awesome. By being so massive, they provide great beam coverage. The tint on them isn't neutral white or anything, but it's definitely not cold. I like it a lot. I also really appreciate that the driver and everything is all in the unit, instead of a ballast that you have to find a place for. Pictures speak louder than words so here we go. I took all these with the same manual settings for best comparison. In real life you can sometimes see more or whatever, but I just want to show the beam profile and color rendition: Cyclops 3800lum low beam in DR650. It's borderline unsafe with this beam.  Cyclops 7000lum in the (pretty bad) KTM 690 reflector. Note how good the beam spread is, while maintaining the DOT cutoff. The color temperature is warmer, as well. In this bulb, Cyclops used larger LEDs, which helped.  YITAMOTOR bulb on LOW . This thing is only pulling 16 Watts?!   YITAMOTOR bulb on HIGH.  the high beam bulb does nothing. Seriously why even bother. Just one each of the RunD 45 degree and 10 Degree lamps, which activate on my high beam. I disconnect the high beam bulb because you can see I don't need it. This also gives me back up light if the cheap headlight bulb burns out/blows. 
Coydog fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Aug 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 19:11
|
|
|
How is the DR650 on the highway? I have a bead on a decent DR650 supermoto and it's hard not to pull the trigger.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 19:18
|
|
|
Mine is geared down a good bit and it's still fine on the highway. Buzzy (because it's geared down), and I get a bit of wobble at 85+, but will cruise forever 70-80. I would have no qualms about it being my only bike in it's current configuration, even if I had to do a fair bit of highway. The headlamp sheild does a good job of wind protection, and it's nowhere near as bad as the 690. Very comfortable and relaxed bike. Excellent for lanesplitting and filtering, as well as low speed balance. Buy that DR650 supermoto.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 19:27
|
|
|
Glad you found one that works for you. There is a lot of utter crap out there but a few gems. I have used yitamotor stuff 4 times now and been pretty pleased for the price. Expensive stuff always had better fitment and customer support. It's really hard to beat 16.00 compared to 70.00 when it's mostly a difference in fit and finish Make sure you didn't install the light upside down, it's possible with these cheap kits. If anyone else is looking at led lights check the recent reviews. Chinese products often start out good and then they cheap out on parts once it's popular in order to maximize profits Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Aug 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 21:26
|
|
|
Barnsy posted:How often should I change the oil + filter on my track bike (CBR500)? I do every other weekend when using smth cheap like rotella t6, and twice that with fancy motul (is yours the green stuff?). Ask in the trackday junkies fb group and start a fight 
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 13:41
|
|
|
 I am looking for advice on lemon law, especially in California. MV's sprag died at 7.5k miles and then again at 12k miles, 13 months into ownership. I have had my love affair, and it's time to part ways.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 02:49
|
|
|
Just wait until mv usa steals it and then do a comprehensive claim. If you don't have comprehensive get it the gently caress now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 04:28
|
|
|
can someone explain to me how the linked brakes on a vfr specifically an ABS 2002 work? Does the front lever engage front and rear and the back lever only engage rear braking? Do both levers engage both brakes? I imagine I can continue brake like a normal motorcycle with mostly front and some rear but I would like to know what is going on. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Aug 22, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 05:31
|
|
|
Honda linked brakes are configured so that one or two pistons in the front brakes are controlled by the rear brake pedal, and one piston in the rear brake is controlled by the front brake lever. So if you pull the lever, you get 4/6 pistons in the front and 1/2 in the rear. If you step on the pedal, you get 1/2 in the back and 2/6 in the front. Use both and you get all the pistons. (I may be wrong about the specific numbers of pistons but that's the general concept). I don't know how the ABS handles this.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 05:45
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I don't know how the ABS handles this. With a vast amount of pointless complexity and bleed screws everywhere is how.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 05:49
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Honda linked brakes are configured so that one or two pistons in the front brakes are controlled by the rear brake pedal, and one piston in the rear brake is controlled by the front brake lever. They also work by buying a de-linking kit if you don't care for that poo poo. It doesn't really bother me that much.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 07:19
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Honda linked brakes are configured so that one or two pistons in the front brakes are controlled by the rear brake pedal, and one piston in the rear brake is controlled by the front brake lever. I bothered finding a diagram once, it's kinda nifty. The half rear that you get isn't triggered directly by the brake lever, but by an extra piston attached to the left front caliper (which is floating/pivoting, not fixed) so that the amount of rear brake you get is dependent on the amount of force being applied in the front (more force makes the pads drag on the disc more, so the caliper moves more and this actuates the hydraulic piston to activate the rear). It's all very Rube-Goldberg. If you filed the serial numbers off I'd swear it was a BMW invention.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 08:20
|
|
|
M42 posted:I do every other weekend when using smth cheap like rotella t6, and twice that with fancy motul (is yours the green stuff?). Ask in the trackday junkies fb group and start a fight Yeah I got the fancy green stuff. Every four track days sounds reasonable enough...
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 08:40
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:It's all very Rube-Goldberg. If you filed the serial numbers off I'd swear it was a BMW invention.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 10:52
|
|
|
They literally turned one indicator button into four separate buttons. Nobody else comes close.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 11:01
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:They literally turned one indicator button into four separate buttons. Nobody else comes close. This sounds hilarious. What bike are you referring to? A lovely quick web search on my phone is giving me nothing...
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 15:13
|
|
|
pokie posted:
http://www.dca.ca.gov/acp/pdf_files/englemn.pdf
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 16:59
|
|
|
dumb. posted:This sounds hilarious. What bike are you referring to? A lovely quick web search on my phone is giving me nothing... BMWs have one button for the left signal, another for the right, and another to cancel. I assume Slavvy is getting four by including the button for the four-way flashers, which is also separate. The directional left/right/in to cancel single-unit is definitely a better design, though it still is three switches if you want to be technical. Or you could just do the old-fashioned thing and use a single 3-way switch where you have to manually return it to center to shut the indicators off. Cheap and easy.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 17:42
|
|
|
Another variation is the Triumph setup (I know other bikes do it but I can't remember right now) wherein its the usual left-right-push to cancel but instead of being one button it's a slider that goes left to right, with a separate smaller button in the middle of it that pushes in. I don't like the really plain design where you have to manually center it to cancel because it's hard to be sure you've done it without having to look down to confirm, especially on Vespas with their broken-from-factory version. Whereas you can compulsively mash the center cancel on a normal switch without taking your eyes off the road.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 20:03
|
|
|
My KLR has a three way switch that needs to be manually centered to turn the signals off. It's fairly easy to use your thumb and feel that the edge of the switch is flush with its housing to confirm the signal is off. But yes, press-to-cancel is nicer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 21:13
|
|
|
Fauxtool posted:can someone explain to me how the linked brakes on a vfr specifically an ABS 2002 work? The only way I ever noticed the link brakes systems on the gen5 VFRs I owned was to stomp on the rear brake, you'll notice the front forks dive a bit. Assuming everything is functioning properly, there is no reason to gently caress with the linked system unless you just like loving with things.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 07:14
|
|
|
no one in the history of motorcycling has ever changed something just because they like loving around.
Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Aug 23, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 09:11
|
|
|
Just got a beginner's arduino kit. Anyone know a simple sketch I could make that would somehow be useful on the bike? 🤓
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 16:54
|
|
|
M42 posted:Just got a beginner's arduino kit. Anyone know a simple sketch I could make that would somehow be useful on the bike? 🤓 *running sounds growing louder* *door handle rattles frantically* *frame busts open* *Sagebrush runs in* "DID SOMEONE CALL ME??"
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 17:33
|
|
|
Lean indicator!  I don't know if you actually have a gyro, but if you did it'd be a fairly basic "initialise sensor, run loop to poo poo out data to display of your choice" project. Also cool. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 18:08
|
|
|
It comes with a tilt sensor, I should make that be my "you're about to drop it you short retard" alert
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 18:19
|
|
|
Make a wheelie tilt display. Like a "balance point" zone, and a reading of where you are. So you can always be reminded that you aren't close to balance point and can push harder. Also a fuel cutout for when you pass too far into that zone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 18:35
|
|
|
Coydog posted:Also a fuel cutout for when you pass too far into that zone. Cut hard at 10 deg before vertical, then when it drops back 10 degrees smash it all back in.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 18:40
|
|
|
If you could make a working example of this, and had a really good lawyer to tidy things up, you'd make a fortune off this device.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
Renaissance Robot posted:Lean indicator! Lean indicators are surprisingly hard to make - you'd think a simple gyro would do the trick but the dynamics of the bike turning muddle the gently caress out of things. source: Spent two months of winter evenings arse-deep in poorly-translated Chinese component data sheets trying to do exactly this.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
M42 posted:Just got a beginner's arduino kit. Anyone know a simple sketch I could make that would somehow be useful on the bike? 🤓 What other parts do you have? If you have a screen and a GPS, you could make a little thing that automatically gives you your last 0-to-60 time without too much work. I've been thinking of adding that to my dashboard. If you have a bicycle speedometer with the wheel magnet thing you can also easily patch into that and get a more robust speed and distance figure than the GPS can provide. If you're not opposed to digging around in the bike wiring, it's not too hard to put any/all of the lamps under computer control, so you can give yourself 4-way flashers or strobe your LED headlight to piss people off or whatever. As goddamnedtwisto has noted, lean indicators are surprisingly difficult because they rely on measuring acceleration in multiple axes, and when you're leaned into a turn the gravitational acceleration is theoretically balanced out perfectly by the centripetal acceleration. I have thought of some theoretical ways to isolate the signal by using a combination of accelerometer and gyroscope data but I don't think I have enough of a mathematical background to do it really effectively. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Aug 23, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 19:24
|
|
|
I can't find it now for some reason, but there was a great little wiki with various automotive Arduino projects (from a really simply lights driver up to a full-fledged race dash) which was handy when I was getting really ambitious with plans for using it and an RPi to give me a full-featured black box system. Then I got bogged with the lean sensor thing, then spring came, so it all went in a drawer. Anyway I'll see if I can replicate the long Google-walk that eventually led me to it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 19:42
|
|
|
isn't that mostly solved by using multiple single axis gyros?
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 20:31
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I have thought of some theoretical ways to isolate the signal by using a combination of accelerometer and gyroscope data but I don't think I have enough of a mathematical background to do it really effectively. I've been thinking lately that an accelerometer would be a really cool thing to have. It could really improve your riding by showing where to smooth out throttle/braking input if you could log an entire ride and map it over a route or at least time over a road you know.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 20:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 15:15 |
|
|
Razzled posted:isn't that mostly solved by using multiple single axis gyros? AIUI, even if you could get one of the pendulum-style gyros that are on the little modules in your phone and every Arduino kit-basher's drawer completely isolated and mounted perpendicular to the direction of travel and parallel to the road, the noise induced in it by acceleration and turning (and of course the vibration of the engine and road noise) would render it completely useless within seconds. Those modules do a surprising amount of work comparing against each other to sift out that noise but they still can't give you a perfect static frame of reference - you can say you've rolled a couple of degrees in the last second but not what that represents compared to where you were ten minutes ago, without the kind of wedding-cake-looking calculations that remind me why I never bothered going beyond GCSE Maths.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 22:12
|
|