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NOVA goons: I'm back from a trip and need to panic-paint the rest of my army for the narrative. The problem is that I'm running out of time to get things finished, and for the higher point games (2,000+) I may need to use both Vultures just to fill points. Would this be really bad form for the narrative?
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Aug 25, 2017 17:45
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OhDearGodNo posted:NOVA goons: I'm back from a trip and need to panic-paint the rest of my army for the narrative. Im in the exact same boat as you - trying balance list building with "what can I get painted in 5 days", since I have about...1000 points painted right now. I told myself I woudln't buy anything at Forge World unless I got at least my 2000 list painted (and if I am lucky the 2500).
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Aug 25, 2017 17:47
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OhDearGodNo posted:NOVA goons: I'm back from a trip and need to panic-paint the rest of my army for the narrative. With the way army matchups go in the Narrative you're probably actually at a disadvantage having so many points in Flyers. If you're going to clearly outmatch someone however, you can always dedicate one Vulture to only killing civilians. I'm pretty sure Dan's doing that already.
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Aug 25, 2017 17:52
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I've managed to paint my first 10 ork boyz and a nob. Leaving their clothes black really speeds up how long I was expecting them to take. Also, I've learned the Real Secret To Painting Orks: If in doubt, leadbelcher/nuln oil. I suppose they're goffs now? Just with the odd red bit.
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Aug 25, 2017 18:38
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Just remember, Primer isn't paint. Don't leave primer showing or it'll flake off.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:41
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Ignite Memories posted:Just remember, Primer isn't paint. Don't leave primer showing or it'll flake off. I've been meaning to find out if there's any difference among GW's spray cans. From what I can tell, there are no different chemicals in Chaos Black or Corax White than from Ultramarine Blue or whatever, so couldn't one just use any colored spray as primer?
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Aug 25, 2017 19:52
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Shockeh posted:Thing is, I'd even like the Titty Tech Priest if it wasn't so gratuitous. The armoured one loses all shape again, whilst the grey flesh with the wire really works. But it's just so drat awful otherwise that it'd be a crime to own. Sand down the tittays and greenstuff a chest plate over?
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Aug 25, 2017 19:53
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Ignite Memories posted:Just remember, Primer isn't paint. Don't leave primer showing or it'll flake off. Oh, don't worry, I'm Abaddon Black-ing the bits I want to be black. Proletariat Beowulf posted:I've been meaning to find out if there's any difference among GW's spray cans. From what I can tell, there are no different chemicals in Chaos Black or Corax White than from Ultramarine Blue or whatever, so couldn't one just use any colored spray as primer? Nope, no difference, it works perfectly well as primer.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:53
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Proletariat Beowulf posted:I've been meaning to find out if there's any difference among GW's spray cans. From what I can tell, there are no different chemicals in Chaos Black or Corax White than from Ultramarine Blue or whatever, so couldn't one just use any colored spray as primer? You could, but primers are supposed to have a little tooth that allows for your subsequent coats of paint to grab onto, as well as grabbing the surface of the model. A regular base coat paint won't have this. I do not know if the GW spray primers are true primers though.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:55
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berzerkmonkey posted:I do not know if the GW spray primers are true primers though. I don't think they are, I think they used to say "spray primer" on the cans, where as now it just says Model Paint.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:58
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I just use Rustoleum's plastic bonding primer, hever given me a lick of trouble.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:59
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The Sex Cannon posted:The Shadowsword is reliably amazing if it has something to give it re-rolls to hit near it (a trojan, Yarrick if you're playing orks). Other than that they're way too pricey for what they do. 
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Aug 25, 2017 19:59
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One of my friends found that using some GW colour sprays over Halfords Matt Black primer actually caused an adverse chemical reaction in the GW spray, even after weeks of curing time for the Halfords paint. Edit: Saint Duncan uses the coloured spray as undercoat. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 20:07
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:One of my friends found that using some GW colour sprays over Halfords Matt Black primer actually caused an adverse chemical reaction in the GW spray, even after weeks of curing time for the Halfords paint. GW spray paint has always been pretty weird and awful. It used to fuzz like crazy when I used it in high humidity. Halford cans have gone on perfect almost every time.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:23
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JoshTheStampede posted:Im in the exact same boat as you - trying balance list building with "what can I get painted in 5 days", since I have about...1000 points painted right now. I told myself I woudln't buy anything at Forge World unless I got at least my 2000 list painted (and if I am lucky the 2500). Maybe it'll work out and we'll end up matched with our half done armies. I will be picking up 2 LRBTs tomorrow, hopefully to remove the need for one vulture up to at least the 2500pt one. MasterSlowPoke posted:With the way army matchups go in the Narrative you're probably actually at a disadvantage having so many points in Flyers. If you're going to clearly outmatch someone however, you can always dedicate one Vulture to only killing civilians. I'm pretty sure Dan's doing that already. The list with 2 vultures also has 6 infantry squads, I should be good but the new rules are troubling. I've already set to try and set a new record for civilian casualties so devoting them to that function seems like a viable course of action...
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Aug 25, 2017 20:25
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Buy an airbrush.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:31
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Liquid Communism posted:I just use Rustoleum's plastic bonding primer, hever given me a lick of trouble. You can't strip this, as it chemically bonds with the plastic. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Buy an airbrush.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:34
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I used some Rustoleum 2x Paint/Primer (American Accents  ). One can was fine, but the other was super-sticky, but like, more cohesive than adhesive, such that if I laid any dried part against the board the pieces were sitting on, chunks would come off and I'd have to re-prime by hand. I'd like to know the chemical difference because the names don't mean anything if it all works the same.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:43
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Buy an airbrush. I never clean a regular brush, I can't be trusted with one that costs a lot more. I'm also a brush licker, and I'm not digging the idea of appearing to be blowing an Ad-mech and taking a load in the mouth not even for the Emperor (not again anyway).
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Aug 25, 2017 20:47
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richyp posted:I never clean a regular brush, I can't be trusted with one that costs a lot more. I'm also a brush licker, and I'm not digging the idea of appearing to be blowing an Ad-mech and taking a load in the mouth not even for the Emperor (not again anyway). I am also a brush licker and t he idea of licking my airbrush, much less spraying it into my mouth has never even occurred to me.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:49
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JoshTheStampede posted:I am also a brush licker and t he idea of licking my airbrush, much less spraying it into my mouth has never even occurred to me. I'm engineering new ways to talk myself out of buying one.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:51
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You would like an airbrush, Richyp. You should probably buy one.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:54
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Amazon does flash sales for the Badger Patriot 105 fairly often. Normally it's $80, the sale drops it to $40-$50. It's pretty much the AK-47 of the airbrush world.
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Aug 25, 2017 22:10
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Krushgroove recommended me a 105 a year or 2 ago. I'll keep my eyes out, as I already have a compressor (somewhere).
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Aug 25, 2017 22:18
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I just regularly use rubbing alcohol to wash out my brushes and they survive fine, even my heavy-use ones. Especially my heavy-use ones.
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Aug 25, 2017 22:21
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I like the new rules, (other than cover rules, buncha shite) but the charge rules are so sloppy you can do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIIe6PvEnkg&t=1050s You can ice-skate around charge targets during your pile-in phases, too, so long as you're closer than before (and consolidation). Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 22:22
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Post 9-11 User posted:I like the new rules, (other than cover rules, buncha shite) but the charge rules are so sloppy you can do this: That guy comes across as a bit annoying, but those rules are designed so you can tie up a unit and they can't shoot you next phase if the other unit falls back. You can't harm them in CC, they can harm you in CC, but they can't shoot you, unless they have fly or are loving ultramarines. It's nice, and encourages big squads, providing a nice counterbalance to just taking minimum sized units.
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Aug 25, 2017 22:29
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Between the leniency for pile in moves and the new wound allocation rules a large squad has a really easy time surrounding vehicles and can be really stupidly hard to dislodge
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Aug 25, 2017 22:31
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Milotic posted:That guy comes across as a bit annoying, but those rules are designed so you can tie up a unit and they can't shoot you next phase if the other unit falls back. You can't harm them in CC, they can harm you in CC, but they can't shoot you, unless they have fly or are loving ultramarines. It's nice, and encourages big squads, providing a nice counterbalance to just taking minimum sized units. It also encourages you to actually put some guys around your characters even though they can't literally join the unit. (In addition to the heroic intervention rule)
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Aug 25, 2017 22:32
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Hey NoVA speed painting bros. I just finished my heldrake. I think I am down to 5 raptors and a lot of bases.   There was discussion about them a page or so ago, I wanted to add my goonsay but I told myself I had to wait till I painted mine first. Someone said they were fast attack but they are "Flyers" battlefield role. They have the FLY keyword but they are not like other supersonic flyers where they get -1 to be hit + move/pivot/charge restrictions. It feels a little clunky how you can say "fly" four different ways but mean something different, especially when you mix in how people assume they interact with old editions. It is best to just read the dataslate to see what it can or can't do. Simply put they are just a really fast model. Have a demon prince while I'm at it. I did not take the time to really get my camera settings right, I am just procrastinating before I go back into the painting dungeon.   
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Aug 25, 2017 22:38
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will blow your mind.
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Pendent posted:Between the leniency for pile in moves and the new wound allocation rules a large squad has a really easy time surrounding vehicles and can be really stupidly hard to dislodge Seems fairly fluffy. If they're a horde they probably aren't going to do much to it, but might chip away at it, and the drivers and gunners are too distracted to fire effectively. Also, serves the player right for letting themselves get swamped.
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Aug 25, 2017 22:38
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It's incredibly unfluffy for a land raider to be trapped, unable to shoot, disembark guys, or simply drive away over people because there are too many lovely cultists in the way. E: and to have other allies unable to shoot the cultists away either
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Aug 25, 2017 22:41
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JoshTheStampede posted:It's incredibly unfluffy for a land raider to be trapped, unable to shoot, disembark guys, or simply drive away over people because there are too many lovely cultists in the way. Everything is an abstraction, and we've seen what having too many special rules for vehicles results in. I'm imagining the cultists blocking up the sights, the malefic warp presence surrounding them futzing with the blessed targeting holgorithms and causing them to fail, and allies unsurprisingly not wanting to risk blowing up their own tank by hitting a suddenly exposed fuel line. If you let your land raider get charged and surrounded then either you made a tactical error or your opponent planned for it and made a deliberate decision to do that so either youshould be punished for it or she should be rewarded for it. Plus you've probably got some time to rescue it, and if it explodes it's possibly taking out a good chunk of her force.
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Aug 25, 2017 22:49
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Finally decided to look at the rules for units i have but never really used yet. And huh. Sisters of Silence Vigilators are basically mini grey knights aren't they?
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Aug 25, 2017 23:03
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Milotic posted:Everything is an abstraction, and we've seen what having too many special rules for vehicles results in. I'm imagining the cultists blocking up the sights, the malefic warp presence surrounding them futzing with the blessed targeting holgorithms and causing them to fail, and allies unsurprisingly not wanting to risk blowing up their own tank by hitting a suddenly exposed fuel line. I'm all for abstraction and think rules should be solid even if it means breaking fluff, but I stop well short of calling that rule fluffy.
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Aug 25, 2017 23:16
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I'm suddenly reminded of this story from a WFB game where an empire player was pouting that a unit of goblins shouldn't have been able to run down his unit of knights because they're tiny goblins vs. his big armored knights. The end. No moral. Der Waffle Mous fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 23:19
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JoshTheStampede posted:I'm all for abstraction and think rules should be solid even if it means breaking fluff, but I stop well short of calling that rule fluffy. I learnt everything I know about tank based close combat from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, so it seems fluffy to me.
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Aug 25, 2017 23:32
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This is the primary reason I went with the stormraven. Not being able to be jammed in combat is huge.
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Aug 25, 2017 23:38
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chutche2 posted:This is the primary reason I went with the stormraven. Not being able to be jammed in combat is huge. Yeah, I've been thinking really hard about picking up a Repulsor for the same reason. I'm actually trying to write a list with both Stormraven and Repulsor and it's really, really hard to fit stuff in.
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Aug 26, 2017 00:26
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Is there such thing as a primer that you can just dip a model into or drybrush all over a model?
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Aug 26, 2017 00:27
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