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2006 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) Automatic. Went grocery shopping and went to go home. Gear shifter was flaccid, and wasn't going into gear. After a few minutes searching on my phone found that the shift linkage bushings poo poo the bed a lot on Jeeps. So crawled under, it was in fact the bushing that went. Just popped it back on, and that was enough to get me home. Anyway none of the part stores around me have them. Just ordered on online, but it's probably going to be a week or so before it gets here. Obviously it's not ideal, but will zip ties work for the 2 trips to work I'll have to make in the week or so before the new bushing arrives? Luckily my commute isn't too far, and I work 24h shifts so I'm looking at less than 50 miles total before it gets here. Or does anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks!
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Aug 22, 2017 19:00
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Im not sure about the zip tie but try slathering it in lithium grease. To keep the bushing in place if its popping out id try a dab of gasket maker or something before id put something through the hole to hold it if that makes sense.
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Aug 22, 2017 19:24
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UrielX posted:2006 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) Automatic.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOlGqoFQqt0&t=248s
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Aug 22, 2017 19:43
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poo poo im sorry the automatic didnt even register in my brain for some reason.
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Aug 22, 2017 20:03
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Has anyone installed a classic air or vintage air ac? For the sensor bulbs they include a clip to mount on a fitting but it seems sketchy to me. It mentions a lot of people run a clamp instead. Its not a bulb either its a copper coil and i can force it on but i dont know how sensitive it is to that because i honestly dont know how it even works. Im mostly just worried that coil us sensitive to being bent or smashed a little because the clamp is basically a spring but its a super tight fit. It also has to hold the thermostat wire. Do i run that right next to the coil for the expansion valve or should i keep those from touching each other? http://i.imgur.com/zkCjmba.jpg C is the clip E: also im going to tackle this tomorrow. It looks like rain but im doing it under cover. Its generally pretty humid here too. Do i need to worry about this and can i do anything about to get moisture out of the lines after i install? Im not sure how much effect it would have but it seems to make a big deal of keeping everything capped as much as possible, but in texas what can i even do about that its humid as all hell. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Aug 22, 2017 |
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Aug 22, 2017 20:30
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Any tips on finding above average work for an old car? Specifically that 66 Datsun 1600 I posted earlier. I'd like to have some work done on it (both cosmetic and mechanical) and I'm happy to pay for a specialist or whatever, this is just my first foray into having an antique and I'm not sure how to start finding the right people to do what I need and to do it well.
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Aug 23, 2017 04:14
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Bad Munki posted:Any tips on finding above average work for an old car? Specifically that 66 Datsun 1600 I posted earlier. I'd like to have some work done on it (both cosmetic and mechanical) and I'm happy to pay for a specialist or whatever, this is just my first foray into having an antique and I'm not sure how to start finding the right people to do what I need and to do it well. Start with a local classic car club. Write or call the leader and ask who those in the club rely on for good work on their cars. He'll be glad to talk your ear off.
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Aug 23, 2017 04:17
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Perfect, thanks. I'd found a place here that sells classic cars exclusively, and a (currently) Nissan dealer that's been running since 1914, and was selling datsuns back in 67, but those things in themselves don't necessarily equate to what I'm after. I was going to try networking through them initially, but a local classic car club should be the ticket!  
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Aug 23, 2017 04:24
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Also look for Datsun forums...you'll probably find discussions on places that do great/awful work.
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Aug 23, 2017 05:17
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DogonCrook posted:Im not sure about the zip tie but try slathering it in lithium grease. To keep the bushing in place if its popping out id try a dab of gasket maker or something before id put something through the hole to hold it if that makes sense. The bushing pretty much disintegrated. The end of the cable does fit onto the knob, and I guess friction kind of kept it in place yesterday. I did get an email that it already shipped so the zip tie thing might only have to work until this weekend.
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Aug 23, 2017 18:21
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UrielX posted:The bushing pretty much disintegrated. The end of the cable does fit onto the knob, and I guess friction kind of kept it in place yesterday. I did get an email that it already shipped so the zip tie thing might only have to work until this weekend. Yeah thought you were talking about the guide bushings for some reason. I think a ziptie will hold jusdging from that picture its not a lot of pressure really or really much use.
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Aug 23, 2017 20:12
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OK, I need some assistance. I have a 1986 Porsche 944 n/a. I think it has a parasitic drain on the battery when it's parked. I had the battery charged and tested and it's good. I disconnected the negative terminal of the battery and hooked up my multimeter between the ground cable and the battery, and it registered a .046A draw. My Volvo has a .060A draw through the radio fuse that will kill the battery after a few days, so that sounds about right (I keep the fuse out normally so I don't have to worry about it). I kept my multimeter hooked up, and one by one pulled each fuse. Went through all of them, the .046A stayed. Even pulled the relays, one at a time, no change. What's my next step? I don't think the car has a second fuse box but I'm not 100% on that.
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Aug 24, 2017 02:58
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Are you sure you haven't moved the decimal point over at least one point? That's slightly over half of a watt, which is.... well, nothing. Modern cars up to 10x as much to keep the electronics powered while parked, and they can sit for several weeks without issue. 0.046 amps works out to ~0.552 watts. 0.06 amps works out to ~0.72 watts. In other words, 46mA on the Porsche, 60mA on the Volvo. Those are both more than acceptable. I'd be a little concerned about it continuing to pull power with every fuse removed, but that's barely enough to power a couple of LEDs, and may even be just the alternator leaking a little bit of current (alternator isn't fused in a normal fuse box, it's generally fused with a fusible link.. if it's fused at all). So long as it's a solid 0.046A while you're fiddling with cables, I wouldn't worry about it. And a 0.06A draw shouldn't kill a car battery over a month, much less a few days. On the Volvo, I'd guess a module is waking up periodically and not going back to sleep properly, if it keeps killing batteries while parked. Or, your battery has a small internal short - just enough to drain it while parked, but not enough to test bad. Now if this is actually a 0.46 amp draw, then that's something to look into. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Aug 24, 2017 |
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Aug 24, 2017 04:55
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Are you sure you haven't moved the decimal point over at least one point? That's slightly over half of a watt, which is.... well, nothing. Modern cars up to 10x as much to keep the electronics powered while parked, and they can sit for several weeks without issue. I'll double check the units tonight. I may be reading it wrong. I know with the Volvo, if I pull the radio fuse, the car can sit for weeks and be fine. It's on its second aftermarket stereo, and used to have Sirius (and still has a number of components hooked up for that) so I chalked it up to that but haven't really dug into it beyond the fuse.
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Aug 24, 2017 13:48
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Here is the multimeter reading in the Porsche (.048A, or 48 milliamps, between the battery negative terminal and the ground cable when the car is off).  Here is the multimeter reading in the Volvo for comparison (.066A, or 66 milliamps, across the radio fuse when the car is off).  I know that in the Volvo, if I pull that fuse, the car will continue to start reliably. If I leave the fuse in, after a few days it won't start. Some additional information: I left the Porsche's battery disconnected all night, connected it, drove the car into work (~25 miles), disconnected the battery, reconnected the battery when I went to leave, and the car had trouble starting. Drove it home (scenic route, ~30 miles), checked the battery and alternator at home. Running, battery measures at 13.46V which means the alternator is charging it. Turn the car off, battery is at 12.26V. Help me out guys. Am I reading my multimeter wrong or going about this the wrong way? I'm not much of an electrical guy. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 14:10
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I would question the battery still if it was slow to crank even after being disconnected all day. A lot of car batteries will look fine when tested at light or no load, but fall on their face at high load. Leave it disconnects overnight or all day or something and test the resting voltage before you crank it.
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Aug 25, 2017 14:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would question the battery still if it was slow to crank even after being disconnected all day. A lot of car batteries will look fine when tested at light or no load, but fall on their face at high load. I disconnected it yesterday around 6. I'll check it tomorrow, so after a day and a half of being disconnected. I had Autozone put their tester on it, and they told me it puts a load on the battery. He said it tests as good but is 'on its way out' and should be replaced before it gets cold out (which isn't really an issue since the car is going to be stored in the winter).
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Aug 25, 2017 14:52
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CornHolio posted:Here is the multimeter reading in the Porsche (.048A, or 48 milliamps, between the battery negative terminal and the ground cable when the car is off). Switch the red lead on the meter to the other socket and try using the DC mA range. Most meters aren't very accurate when trying to read very small values on large ranges. Having said that 48mA could well be correct. There are only a few devices operating in what's basically standby mode (radio, alarm, central locking receiver, etc).
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Aug 25, 2017 16:22
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Sweevo posted:Switch the red lead on the meter to the other socket and try using the DC mA range. Most meters aren't very accurate when trying to read very small values on large ranges. Will do. Alarm module isn't hooked up, interior clock doesn't work (doesn't display, anyway), central locking button is missing... not a lot in the car that would draw when the car is off. And I pulled all of those fuses anyway. Is it possible for a circuit to go through multiple fuses, so I'd have to pull two to kill the draw?
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Aug 25, 2017 18:11
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Charging 13.4 sounds like a diode in tha alt is bad. You are probably leaking ac. Test and see how much ac voltage while running and then disconnect the alt an test how much leaks while off. If you alt doesnt put at least 14.5 its not good. E: well really just go swap the alt. It doesnt matter why it cant do 14.5 if ot cant its not any good. But i think 13.4 is precisely the voltage it puts out with a bad diode. When the diode goes bad you leak ac current back into the car thats why you dont pick up on the slow leak. Even if its not a bad diode the alt is toast though. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 19:21
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Actually i take that back if ac has been leaking you want to know its pretty bad for the battery i guess. I dont know what a battery can handle.
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Aug 25, 2017 19:31
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If the battery was "on its way out" when you got it tested, this could be the first symptom of that. Get a new battery.
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Aug 26, 2017 00:11
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I have never lived anywhere that freezes. I may be spending sporadic time in Northern Nevada in a mountainous little town (Ely, NV) that spends 8 months out of the year with an average low under 32f. There is also a better than average chance it will end up on dirt roads of possibly dubious quality. I was considering picking up a beater car to leave there and use when I am up there. I know jack and poo poo about what I should be considering. I assume 4wd or awd would be drat handy. Recommend me a cheap beater car/truck/thing that would be hopefully reliable and good in this sort of situation. Also hopefully fun to drive.
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Aug 26, 2017 01:22
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Domestic truck prices are kind absurd right now even beaters. The light toyata trucks are fun as hell and still really cheap though. I dont know much about desert but if you dont need 4wd id avoid it because its just more expensive poo poo that could break and you are lugging around stuff you may never use, but if you find a good deal why not i guess.
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Aug 26, 2017 01:44
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Sweevo posted:Switch the red lead on the meter to the other socket and try using the DC mA range. Most meters aren't very accurate when trying to read very small values on large ranges. OK, some weird stuff. Checked my car after 24 hours of the battery being disconnected, 12.12V.  I tested the amperage across the negative battery terminal and the ground cable using the DC Ma setting, and it reads 0.01. I don't know if that means 0.01A or 0.01 milliamps.  When I reconnected the battery and tried to start the car, it wouldn't even try. Checked the battery again, and it is now a full volt less than it was when I tested it with the ground cable disconnected.  I threw my charger on there for a few hours, and it was at 12.84V and started fine. While running it read a healthy 13.91V across the terminals.  DogonCrook posted:Charging 13.4 sounds like a diode in tha alt is bad. You are probably leaking ac. Test and see how much ac voltage while running and then disconnect the alt an test how much leaks while off. When running, AC voltage across the terminals is .015V (picture shows .017 but it stabilized at .015 and stayed there). This isn't zero, but is it indicative of a bad diode or low enough to be a bad reading?  I guess my next step is to have Autozone test the alternator. I think their test machine checks for a bad diode, doesn't it?
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Aug 26, 2017 02:06
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Yeah. Ok lol im horrible at math too i have to look at a gauge. More than .5 milliamps is a bad diode. So i think thats bad. 13.9 is not enough either so definetly get the alt tested and swapped. Im still not sure what thats going to mean for the battery. If the alt is that low im inclined to say its still good if it charges to 12.8 but probably took a beating and wgo knows whats going on under load. I would have that tested as well and if its borderline id swap it because im not sure what ac going into it will do to it in the long run. I know its not good but you are only a tad out of spec so i dont really know. E: i cant find the exact number right now it's called diode ripple though so look up a diode ripple test for alternators if you want the exact number you are testing for. Im pretty sure autozone or whatever would detect it and fail it. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 26, 2017 02:23
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah. Ok lol im horrible at math too i have to look at a gauge. More than .5 milliamps is a bad diode. So i think thats bad. I have a plug-in charger that charged the battery to 12.8V. The alternator didn't do that. I also don't know how old this battery is. It doesn't have the date on it anywhere.
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Aug 26, 2017 02:37
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CornHolio posted:I have a plug-in charger that charged the battery to 12.8V. The alternator didn't do that. Yeah that makes me think it may be good though, its the alt thats falling down. Have them both tested you may get lucky. I mean full on diode failure is 25% of the electricity coming out as ac or if 2 go its 50% etc and that would kill the battery real fast. Yours is nowhere near that and would only be showing the first smidge of failure so im not sure it did any damage. E: actually im not sure if its 25% voltage because only part of the wave is bad. I have no idea what all the math would work out too lol. A full diode failure does kill a battery though and you get the idea. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 26, 2017 02:43
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BitBasher posted:I have never lived anywhere that freezes. I may be spending sporadic time in Northern Nevada in a mountainous little town (Ely, NV) that spends 8 months out of the year with an average low under 32f. There is also a better than average chance it will end up on dirt roads of possibly dubious quality. I was considering picking up a beater car to leave there and use when I am up there. I know jack and poo poo about what I should be considering. I assume 4wd or awd would be drat handy. Get something with a manual. Anecdotally from living in a frozen poo poo hole, imports will need their block heater plugged in at the first sign of frost while domestics will happily sit outside year round. Tacomas are exceptions to this rule. Sunfires are okay winter beaters. Honestly get whatever is cheap, spend the money on winter tires and a new battery.
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Aug 26, 2017 03:20
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CornHolio posted:Checked my car after 24 hours of the battery being disconnected, 12.12V. That battery's done. The alternator may very well be bad as well with the running voltage you're seeing, but for the battery to drop down to 12.1 while disconnected shows it has an internal short. You want to see 12.5-12.6 after it's been sitting awhile.
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Aug 26, 2017 04:53
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Breakfast Feud posted:Get something with a manual. Anecdotally from living in a frozen poo poo hole, imports will need their block heater plugged in at the first sign of frost while domestics will happily sit outside year round. Tacomas are exceptions to this rule. Sunfires are okay winter beaters. Honestly get whatever is cheap, spend the money on winter tires and a new battery. Perhaps ironically that's what I drive now. I have an 04 Tacoma v6 TRD that I am the original owner of, it's just not 4wd. Used Tacomas even going back to 2000 aren't really cheap, they pretty much always seem to be north of 10k if in even decent shape.
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Aug 26, 2017 04:56
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Shouldn't my radiator cap have released pressure before this happened?
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Aug 26, 2017 05:54
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Plastic end tanks just die
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Aug 26, 2017 05:58
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Yeah that's how a newer style radiator typically shits the bed. That radiator looks pretty new though? If so, see if it's covered by a warranty.
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Aug 26, 2017 06:17
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Replaced in 2015. Over two years. I'll dig up the email and see. E: nope, 1 year warranty. Mostly I just wanna know if I got a bad cap (since the cap is like a month old) or if this is just poo poo that happens when you can't stop when the gauge spikes. (tldr I have been having cooling issues and was evading a road rager who was aggressively following me around town when that happened so parking wasn't an option) At least someone had a rad in stock and was open late, just hope nothing else is hosed. Javid fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 26, 2017 06:28
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BitBasher posted:Perhaps ironically that's what I drive now. I have an 04 Tacoma v6 TRD that I am the original owner of, it's just not 4wd. Used Tacomas even going back to 2000 aren't really cheap, they pretty much always seem to be north of 10k if in even decent shape. No Tacoma's aren't *usually* beaters but sometimes you can find a hacked up truggy going for cheap. I personally don't feel 4wd is a requirement in winter conditions, but I definitely load up the bed with pavers just before first snow fall. Mid 2000s Malibus and Crown Vics are pretty good for sedans in the winter too. The Malibu especially because of the weight and FWD can just plow through berms and snowfall. It was actually more capable than a RWD ranger with no weight in the box.
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Aug 26, 2017 15:59
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Javid posted:Replaced in 2015. Over two years. I'll dig up the email and see. Most car parts stores will rent you a cooling system pressure test kit that can also test the radiator cap. I usually buy a new radiator cap when I do a radiator for a friend's car. It's cheap insurance that the new radiator or something else will not explode.
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Aug 26, 2017 16:46
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Breakfast Feud posted:No Tacoma's aren't *usually* beaters but sometimes you can find a hacked up truggy going for cheap. I personally don't feel 4wd is a requirement in winter conditions, but I definitely load up the bed with pavers just before first snow fall. Mid 2000s Malibus and Crown Vics are pretty good for sedans in the winter too. The Malibu especially because of the weight and FWD can just plow through berms and snowfall. It was actually more capable than a RWD ranger with no weight in the box. Okay, thanks. I just assumed 4wd would be, basically everyone talks about how much better 4wd is when it freezes out.
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Aug 26, 2017 16:57
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Plastic end tanks just die The person who designed the first plastic end tank deserves a special level of hell just for him.
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Aug 26, 2017 19:59
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BitBasher posted:Okay, thanks. I just assumed 4wd would be, basically everyone talks about how much better 4wd is when it freezes out. If you're driving an automatic and you don't know what you're doing or the physics of driving then yeah 4wd is a life saver. If you enjoy driving and have enough wherewithal to see ~100 yards ahead and plan your trajectory then it's never an issue. Traction control is neat, but all it really does is make take offs less squirrelly. I've driven an Astro van and an HHR in blizzards that shut down the city, and it was really a matter of timing the lights, keeping momentum through turns and just not making complete idiot decisions like trying to plow through a parking lot with 24" of snow in it to get to a store that was quite clearly closed. If cost is the main factor steer clear of 4wd, basically.
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Aug 27, 2017 04:01
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