MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012; ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

Yeah. As long as you can touch the motor without burning yourself, it's fine. The pancake steppers I use on my extruders get nice and toasty but they continue to work perfectly.
(Note that plastic motor mounts may soften, though, so watch out for that).

Also, steppers run cooler when they're moving faster and hotter when they're stopped (holding position) or turning slowly, contrary to what you might expect.

# ? Aug 26, 2017 18:57

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# ? Jun 7, 2024 02:58

Kea: Oct 5, 2007

Required some gluing but I like the result.

# ? Aug 26, 2017 19:21

EVIL Gibson: Mar 23, 2001; Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!; Switchblade Switcharoo

Kea posted:

Required some gluing but I like the result.

The best thing about mechanical mini models is that a bad glue job looks like a slack welding job in it's tiny little universe.

# ? Aug 26, 2017 20:45

Megabound: Oct 20, 2012

Been playing with Proto-pasta Matte Fiber PLA for work and printed a rad skull.

I'm thinking I'll sand and polish it.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 00:22

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

I printed off a grip strength enhancer for a diabetic friend while he was over at a party. He can now change his ecig without a set of pliers

Bespoke solutions !

Jestery fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Aug 27, 2017

# ? Aug 27, 2017 00:52

Listerine: Jan 5, 2005; Exquisite Corpse

What are the best brands for PLA? I'm using a roll of eSun for testing my current model but it's being really stringy.

Also does anyone produce spools of more than 1 kg?

Listerine fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Aug 27, 2017

# ? Aug 27, 2017 00:58

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

Finished assembling my i3 MK2S and I'm having adhesion issues with the pla that came with the kit.

Pictures: first attempt, second attempt, only successful print, current first layer, and a sad benchy that came loose at about 60%

Am I missing something super obvious? 210/55 with no live z adjust.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 05:48

Megabound: Oct 20, 2012

Looking at that bottom left layer, if that's your first layer than you're nozzle is too high and you need to adjust your Z-Offset.

The PEI isn't super friendly with PLA either and you should clean your bed with the included isopropyl before printing.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 05:59

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

Shalhavet posted:

Am I missing something super obvious? 210/55 with no live z adjust.

What do you mean "with no live z adjust"? That you never did it? Because you HAVE to do it.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 05:59

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

BMan posted:

What do you mean "with no live z adjust"? That you never did it? Because you HAVE to do it.

The one that succeeded was with -0.015mm. I reset it to 0 after going as far as -0.9 and having everything drag and spaghettify. I've cleaned the PEI a few times.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 06:06

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

Well the first layer is supposed to be about 0.2mm thick. If the nozzle wasn't physically touching the bed at -0.9 then the correct setting should be at least -0.7.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 06:20

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

Also I'll give you an important bed adhesion tip that seems not to be widely known: You can't wipe your print bed with just anything. There are Bad Paper Towels out there, and if you clean your bed with one of these curs�d towels, it will leave behind an invisible residue that repels filament. Personally I'm using facial tissues (obviously avoid anything with lotions or perfume in it).

# ? Aug 27, 2017 06:43

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

Shalhavet posted:

The one that succeeded was with -0.015mm. I reset it to 0 after going as far as -0.9 and having everything drag and spaghettify. I've cleaned the PEI a few times.

You might have that problem where your PINDA is getting too warm and messing up. I solved this by changing my Cura start GCODE (On a Mac it's in Settings>Printer>Manage Printers>Machine Settings) to:

code:

M107 ; disable fan
M83  ; extruder relative mode
M104 S150 ; set extruder temp to 150C, cold enough to avoid ooze, but get some temp on it
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
M109 S150 ; wait for extruder temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G1 Z80
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temp
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp
M83 ; extruder relative mode
G1 E-5 F1500 ; retract a little to avoid ooze
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
G1 E5 F1500 ; undo retract a little to avoid ooze
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside pritn area
G1 X60.0 E9.0  F1000.0 ; intro line
G1 X100.0 E12.5  F1000.0 ; intro line
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G92 E0 ; set extruder to 0

This lifts the extruder up to 8cm during the heating to keep the probe cool. To set the z offset I just scale a 20mm calibration cube to like 50x50x{first layer height} thick. So for a .2mm layer height, it'll be 50x50x.2 and change it until you get a good first layer. Then run it again for consistency.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 06:50

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

I'll be using OctoPrint. Looks like I can toss that script into Settings > GCODE Scripts > Before print job starts. I'll fiddle with it a bit tomorrow, too, after I get some different paper towels.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 07:00

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

Yeah, that's why I said to check your variables.

The live z adjust workflow is incredibly frustrating without making sure the probe is away from the bed, in my experience. You can do this with the LCD if you want, just raise the z axis to 80 or so before you select the print on the SD.

tuyop fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Aug 28, 2017

# ? Aug 27, 2017 07:07

Snackmar: Feb 23, 2005; I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

EVIL Gibson posted:

Found this image and it's flipping amazing. I love the attention to what the problem is and, more importantly, looks like.

I really think it can be OP worthy as I have found myself trying to fix something when it turns out to be something completely different and have actually making the issue just that more horrible

Yeah, that looks good! I've added it to the OP.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 07:42

Rapulum_Dei: Sep 7, 2009

I had this pop up in my YouTube feed and now I'm tempted to give it a go;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUW8G4vXZfg

# ? Aug 27, 2017 09:55

CapnBry: Jul 15, 2002; I got this goin'; Grimey Drawer

Shalhavet posted:

I'll be using OctoPrint. Looks like I can toss that script into Settings > GCODE Scripts > Before print job starts. I'll fiddle with it a bit tomorrow, too, after I get some different paper towels.

I would be wary of doing that, because that code runs before your slicer's start GCode. You'll do all that stuff and be ready to print the first line of your model but the slicer start gcode will run and possibly ruin everything. It will home again, level again, then go to printing.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 13:30

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

tuyop posted:

Just make sure you're not duplicating GCODE from your slicer. And check your variables. That script pulls the temperature information from your slicer settings, which obviously won't be communicated to Octoprint. Shouldn't be too much of an issue if you just add this part to Octoprint. I found it more finicky than just adjusting the slicer start GCODE.
code:
M107 ; disable fan
M83  ; extruder relative mode
M104 S150 ; set extruder temp to 150C, cold enough to avoid ooze, but get some temp on it
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
M109 S150 ; wait for extruder temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G1 Z80
You definitely want to make sure an M82 (to set your extruder to absolute mode) makes its way in there before your print starts as well.

I put it Slic3r's Start GCODE. Now I've got a strange issue where starting a print from OctoPrint doesn't actually give the printer the command to heat the bed or hotend and it's stuck waiting forever for them to reach target temp when the printer LCD says 25C/0C 26C/0C

I feel like these are incredibly simple fixes but I'm just not using the right google searches to find the answers.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 21:22

EVIL Gibson: Mar 23, 2001; Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!; Switchblade Switcharoo

Shalhavet posted:

I put it Slic3r's Start GCODE. Now I've got a strange issue where starting a print from OctoPrint doesn't actually give the printer the command to heat the bed or hotend and it's stuck waiting forever for them to reach target temp when the printer LCD says 25C/0C 26C/0C

I feel like these are incredibly simple fixes but I'm just not using the right google searches to find the answers.

The 104 and 109 are both setting the extruder to the same temp so 104 can be removed. 104 is begin to heat the hot head and run the next command. Heating the bed returns back to host immediately as well so everything is heating up and waiting at 109

# ? Aug 27, 2017 22:53

Novo: May 13, 2003; ^{Stercorem pro cerebro habes}; Soiled Meat

Shalhavet posted:

Finished assembling my i3 MK2S and I'm having adhesion issues with the pla that came with the kit.

Pictures: first attempt, second attempt, only successful print, current first layer, and a sad benchy that came loose at about 60%

Am I missing something super obvious? 210/55 with no live z adjust.

As others have said you need to do the live z adjust. Run the V2Calibration.gcode from the SD card and adjust until the lines are squished and stick well to the bed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqH41K2vq0g&t=890s

I am loving my new MK2S; I'm already printing the parts for a mostly printed CNC. I'm also thinking about building a clone; is there a good place to order just the non printable parts? I don't want to gently caress around ordering piecemeal and getting slightly wrong stuff.

# ? Aug 27, 2017 22:54

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

it's really hard to tell if it's squished or not. I need a jeweler's loupe or something for that.

EVIL Gibson posted:

The 104 and 109 are both setting the extruder to the same temp so 104 can be removed. 104 is begin to heat the hot head and run the next command. Heating the bed returns back to host immediately as well so everything is heating up and waiting at 109

It's not heating up at all, that's the problem. It's waiting on a heat that will never happen. OctoPrint shows the Target T correctly, but the printer itself says the target it 0C.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 00:06

Novo: May 13, 2003; ^{Stercorem pro cerebro habes}; Soiled Meat

A magnifying glass might help, a jeweler's loupe would be too small and fiddly to use during calibration. The difference is subtle but should be visible to the naked eye, think linguine vs spaghetti. I got the same silver PLA and I think I went too low initially because the first layer left a noticeable brim from being squished and my prints, though immaculate, were very hard to remove from the bed.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 00:14

EVIL Gibson: Mar 23, 2001; Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!; Switchblade Switcharoo

Shalhavet posted:

it's really hard to tell if it's squished or not. I need a jeweler's loupe or something for that.

It's not heating up at all, that's the problem. It's waiting on a heat that will never happen. OctoPrint shows the Target T correctly, but the printer itself says the target it 0C.

Yah man. If it is not working with other configurations check your wiring and making sure the wires are plugged in the correct places in the correct orientation.

Like seriously, don't assume it couldn't be as simple as that. Checking to see if it is right only takes like 4 minutes and will save you, now, infinite time since it's not working.

Keep an eye out for burnt up or possible scorched spots hinting that there is a short somewhere.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 00:24

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

EVIL Gibson posted:

Yah man. If it is not working with other configurations check your wiring and making sure the wires are plugged in the correct places in the correct orientation.

Like seriously, don't assume it couldn't be as simple as that. Checking to see if it is right only takes like 4 minutes and will save you, now, infinite time since it's not working.

Keep an eye out for burnt up or possible scorched spots hinting that there is a short somewhere.

Wiring's fine. It printed a Benchy from the SD card onto painter's tape with a tiny bit of dragging on the first layer but it stuck fine. Still not sure why Octoprint's not starting the print right.

e: turns out I had to hit the play button on the "it won't fit" warning.

e2:
Send: N6 G28 W*98
Recv: ok
Send: N7 G1 Z80*93
Recv: ok
Send: N8 M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}*1
Recv: ok
Send: N9 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}*18

Should that be replaced with a number?

Shalhavet fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Aug 28, 2017

# ? Aug 28, 2017 03:55

Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012; ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

Yes. The slicer should be replacing those variables with the actual values when it post-processes the gcode. That's probably why Octoprint is crashing.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 04:05

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

Maybe you should actually follow the instructions instead of not using the Z adjust, messing with custom gcodes and octoprint, putting loving painter's tape on the MK2 what is wrong with you

# ? Aug 28, 2017 04:06

Shalhavet: Dec 10, 2010; This post is terrible; Doctor Rope

Thanks for the advice about the paper towels. As far as the gcode thing goes, that was a suggestion posted by someone else, not something I wrote on my own because I'm not confident in my own knowledge. That's why I'm posting, because I want to learn. I put painter's tape on the print bed because the information I found said that PLA stuck to it better than to PEI. If that's not what I should be doing, I really do want to know, but in less angry words

# ? Aug 28, 2017 04:16

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

Sorry, I guess that was kinda harsh. But I still think you should get it working in the standard configuration before you start messing with that stuff.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 04:31

Novo: May 13, 2003; ^{Stercorem pro cerebro habes}; Soiled Meat

BMan is harsh but correct, I am a total noob to this hobby and my MK2S has printed flawlessly from the first print using no extra tricks other than following the instructions carefully. (I had to disable that warning in Octoprint too but everything has been fine.)

# ? Aug 28, 2017 04:32

Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012; ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

Shalhavet posted:

Thanks for the advice about the paper towels. As far as the gcode thing goes, that was a suggestion posted by someone else, not something I wrote on my own because I'm not confident in my own knowledge. That's why I'm posting, because I want to learn. I put painter's tape on the print bed because the information I found said that PLA stuck to it better than to PEI. If that's not what I should be doing, I really do want to know, but in less angry words

Do things one step at a time. This is a real Prusa i3, right? Go back to the instructions and do the Z-leveling process. Install a clean version of PrusaSlic3r and use their preset configuration files. Run the first few jobs directly from your computer instead of through OctoPrint. Once you have it printing correctly in that situation you can think about messing with the configs or moving to Octoprint. But it sounds like you've changed too many things too quickly for the stage you're at.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 04:36

Listerine: Jan 5, 2005; Exquisite Corpse

I printed this model of the facial skeleton around the nasal cavities, split to show the nasal septum, with the nerves traveling through the region. A lot of stringing I can't seem to reduce.

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# ? Aug 28, 2017 06:38

Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012; ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

Lower your print temperature and increase retraction.

Or just cut the stuff off afterwards.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 06:41

CapnBry: Jul 15, 2002; I got this goin'; Grimey Drawer

Shalhavet posted:

Send: N6 G28 W*98
Recv: ok
Send: N7 G1 Z80*93
Recv: ok
Send: N8 M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}*1
Recv: ok
Send: N9 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}*18

Should that be replaced with a number?

Yeah I think those are S3D's variable names. If you're using Slic3r the variable names are [first_layer_bed_temperature] [first_layer_temperature] (it also wants brackets, not curly braces)

# ? Aug 28, 2017 13:44

bring back old gbs: Feb 28, 2007; by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Listerine posted:

I printed this model of the facial skeleton around the nasal cavities, split to show the nasal septum, with the nerves traveling through the region. A lot of stringing I can't seem to reduce.

A good candidate for dissolvable supports if there ever was one. Dang.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 16:30

Kea: Oct 5, 2007

Honestly I have no idea how people keep causing fires with their cheap chinese printer kits, they arent that dangerous as long as you take proper precautions!

Oh... nevermind then.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 17:01

big parcheesi player: Apr 1, 2014; Also, I can kill you with my brain.

Kea posted:

Honestly I have no idea how people keep causing fires with their cheap chinese printer kits, they arent that dangerous as long as you take proper precautions!

Oh... nevermind then.

I went and disassembled my hot-end on my printer this weekend to try to fix a couple issues i've had, but have been managing to work around, such as the PTFE(?) tube on my left extruder being too short and due to this my left nozzle clogging all the time, a failed print a long time ago had encased the left hot-end in plastic so that needed cleaning, and my right extruder was a little lose so it was slightly lower than my left so I was unable to do multi-color parts. Needless to say, I used a torch on the left nozzle (after removing it of course) and that is cleaned out nicely, all the melted plastic is off the left hot-end, but because it was melted onto the head originally, the plastic got into places it shouldn't have so I am unable to remove the head entirely without cutting the heating wires, which I'm not about to do, which means that the PTFE tube is still stuck inside because there are some plastic that melted to the outside of it I believe. The inside of it is clear, so I could still use it if I needed. Got the right side back in line, reassembled and the left side was smoking slightly, probably because through messing with the tube it was touching the walls inside the hot-end. But no flames. I rarely use that side since it has been causing me so many issues anyways. Printed a 20mm cube out of the right nozzle, and printed just fine. Mostly a successful Saturday morning.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 17:41

Kea: Oct 5, 2007

I didn't think you were meant to torch the nozzle without removing the tube to be honest.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 21:13

peepsalot: Apr 24, 2007; ��PEEP THIS...
��BITCH!

Kea posted:

I didn't think you were meant to torch the nozzle without removing the tube to be honest.

Only if you like making nerve gas.

# ? Aug 28, 2017 23:53

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# ? Jun 7, 2024 02:58

PlaneGuy: Mar 28, 2001; g e r m a n
e n g i n e e r i n g; Yam Slacker

big parcheesi player posted:

I went and disassembled my hot-end on my printer this weekend to try to fix a couple issues i've had, but have been managing to work around, such as the PTFE(?) tube on my left extruder being too short and due to this my left nozzle clogging all the time, a failed print a long time ago had encased the left hot-end in plastic so that needed cleaning, and my right extruder was a little lose so it was slightly lower than my left so I was unable to do multi-color parts. Needless to say, I used a torch on the left nozzle (after removing it of course) and that is cleaned out nicely, all the melted plastic is off the left hot-end, but because it was melted onto the head originally, the plastic got into places it shouldn't have so I am unable to remove the head entirely without cutting the heating wires, which I'm not about to do, which means that the PTFE tube is still stuck inside because there are some plastic that melted to the outside of it I believe. The inside of it is clear, so I could still use it if I needed. Got the right side back in line, reassembled and the left side was smoking slightly, probably because through messing with the tube it was touching the walls inside the hot-end. But no flames. I rarely use that side since it has been causing me so many issues anyways. Printed a 20mm cube out of the right nozzle, and printed just fine. Mostly a successful Saturday morning.

source your quotes

# ? Aug 29, 2017 00:19

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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