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I was having really bad rattling from the linear bearings under the print bed on my Prusa i3 MK2S. Talked with Prusa support, who suggested lubrication. Internet suggested using sewing machine lubricant, since it's pretty thin and designed to work in high-dust environments. Bought some of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYCKTW2 I'm happy to report that a little applied directly to the bearings and a couple prints solved my rattling, and my print quality is back to where it was when I got the (assembled) printer.
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Aug 29, 2017 00:57
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I have an i3 knockoff using SL42STH48-1504A stepper drivers, and im trying to update it to marlin 1.1.5. Well, I have updated it to marlin 1.1.5 and now I need to find out some info so I can correct the steps per mm for all axis, because they are way off, especially the z axis. This is as fair as I have got steps_per_mm = (200 * driver_microstep) / (2.5 * 18) How can I find out the microsteps of this driver?
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Aug 29, 2017 10:22
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Kea posted:I didn't think you were meant to torch the nozzle without removing the tube to be honest. The left nozzle came off successfully so I could take it outside, the tube is stuck in the hot-end.
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Aug 29, 2017 12:03
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NPR Journalizard posted:I have an i3 knockoff using SL42STH48-1504A stepper drivers, and im trying to update it to marlin 1.1.5. Well, I have updated it to marlin 1.1.5 and now I need to find out some info so I can correct the steps per mm for all axis, because they are way off, especially the z axis. Are you confusing the motor with the driver? SL42STH48-1504A is a motor part number. A driver is the electronic widget that a stepper motor connects to. What type of control board does this printer have? That'll help to identify the actual drivers, which will dictate what the microstep value is. (It's probably 1/16)
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Aug 29, 2017 14:40
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I think if you run a M92 command on your existing firmware and it will spit out your steps per mm. e: oh I just re-read and you blew away your existing firmware, RIP e: also I was thinking of M503. mewse fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Aug 29, 2017 |
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Aug 29, 2017 14:42
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Acid Reflux posted:Are you confusing the motor with the driver? SL42STH48-1504A is a motor part number. A driver is the electronic widget that a stepper motor connects to. What type of control board does this printer have? That'll help to identify the actual drivers, which will dictate what the microstep value is. (It's probably 1/16) Probably, im new to all this, and am fumbling along. Control board is an MKS Gen-2z V1.2 (I think). mewse posted:I think if you run a M92 command on your existing firmware and it will spit out your steps per mm. Yeah, im realising now I should have taken down a lot more info before I uploaded the new firmware. Oh well, live and learn.
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Aug 29, 2017 15:20
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NPR Journalizard posted:Yeah, im realising now I should have taken down a lot more info before I uploaded the new firmware. Oh well, live and learn. Getting your movement values will probably be easier than calibrating your extruder steps/mm. If your Z axis has tr8 leadscrews with 4 leads, the pitch is 8mm and your steps per mm (assuming 1.8 degree motors and 1/16 microstepping) is 400. On your belts, 99% of belts are GT2, the big difference will be whether you are using 16 tooth or 20 tooth pulleys. 20 tooth are more common. That will be 80 steps/mm. 16 tooth is 100.
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Aug 29, 2017 15:29
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mewse posted:Getting your movement values will probably be easier than calibrating your extruder steps/mm. ok, I understood most of that. The leadscrews are 8mm with 2mm pitch, and I have 16 teeth pulleys. Im not sure what the 4 leads on the z axis means. Im pretty sure they are 1.8 degree motors. The belts have t2.5 stamped on them.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:11
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NPR Journalizard posted:The leadscrews are 8mm with 2mm pitch From what I understand, 1 lead means 1 thread continuously wrapped around the cylinder. 4 leads means 4 separate threads circling the cylinder. If the pitch is 2mm but you have more than 1 lead, the pitch is referring to the distance between separate threads rather than the same thread. You multiply the pitch (2mm) by the number of leads (4) and get the "working pitch" of 8mm, ie. one complete rotation of the nut will travel 8mm.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:19
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ohhh ok, yeah there are 4 leads then. Sweet, thanks.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:21
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Those are commonly referred to as a "four start" lead screw. ACME threaded stuff is usually 1-, 2-, or 4-start for stuff like this. Just an example for comparison's sake, the Z axis lead screw on my CNC router is a 3/8" diameter, 12 threads per inch, 1-start (single set of threads).
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Aug 29, 2017 16:27
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Whelp, I think that got it. Yay for a day of loving around with poo poo that could be done in 30 seconds had I know wtf I was doing.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:58
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Gotta learn somehow. Did you figure out the value for the extruder?
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Aug 29, 2017 17:21
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mewse posted:Gotta learn somehow. Did you figure out the value for the extruder? I think so, but tbh it's 1am and I'm going to stop loving around with this and get some sleep then pick it up in the morning. Turns out typos can play a big part in this, I realised as I tried to heat the extruder up to 2100 degrees.
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Aug 29, 2017 18:24
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Alright, I think I finally have Octoprint sorted out. It's on a Pi 3 and a new camera module, with a wired network connection. I've run a couple of 1-2 hr prints on it without issue, so now I'm going to retry my big 19 hour print of the enclosure I designed for an APRS TNC/GPS tracker I cobbled together out of some of my ham radio kit and the repurposed Pi Zero I originally bought for Octoprint. I'm also live streaming it since I want to be able to keep an eye on it while I'm at work; feel free to take a peek and laugh when it makes a big tangled ball or stops extruding because the extruder stepper's connector vibrated loose again. My pitiful warped glass bed will be replaced with PEI later this week.
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Aug 29, 2017 23:16
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lol http://shittygifts.com/3d-printers-the-ultimate-rage-machine/
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Aug 29, 2017 23:45
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I find since I got rid of my everyday paper printer that my 3d printer has become the target of that rage that I used to get out of my system everytime I got a mysterious driver error. Now I can flip out when the printer fails 5 hours in and leaves me with yet more useless trash. Its a feature not a bug. With the bonus that if i feel like it I can print out a tiny army of AT-STs to leave lying around the house as long as they dont inevitably fail (they will)
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Aug 30, 2017 00:05
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ickna posted:Alright, I think I finally have Octoprint sorted out. It's on a Pi 3 and a new camera module, with a wired network connection. I've run a couple of 1-2 hr prints on it without issue, so now I'm going to retry my big 19 hour print of the enclosure I designed for an APRS TNC/GPS tracker I cobbled together out of some of my ham radio kit and the repurposed Pi Zero I originally bought for Octoprint. How did you get that livestream going? Is it running off the RPi?
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Aug 30, 2017 00:50
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tuyop posted:How did you get that livestream going? Is it running off the RPi? I'm using OBS on my desktop, pulling the octoprint camera stream off of the RPI and adding in a capture of the Octoprint progress as well as a second usb camera angle to watch the filament feed. SURE ENOUGH, 4 hours in and the fan duct catches on the edge of the print and causes the x axis to hang and skip steps. gently caress. Time to scrape it off, maybe sand down the duct some and then restart the print... Stream is down for a bit, I'm going to eat my dinner before I rectify the situation and try again.
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Aug 30, 2017 01:40
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ickna posted:SURE ENOUGH, 4 hours in and the fan duct catches on the edge of the print and causes the x axis to hang and skip steps. gently caress. Time to scrape it off, maybe sand down the duct some and then restart the print... Goondolences, friend. I've been printing with Octoprint for about 10 days now, luckily with no issues so far besides my incompetent slicing. Finally putting an old OG RPi to good use other than an emulation station (which I now have an RPi3 for  )
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Aug 30, 2017 02:55
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I got an rpi zero for a significant discount, did I do a stupid for repitier? I was informed I might have issues
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Aug 30, 2017 03:22
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Jestery posted:I got an rpi zero for a significant discount, did I do a stupid for repitier? I think it'll handle the general running ok, but I doubt it'll run a webcam at the same time.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:12
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How do you get a "significant discount" on a pi zero? They paid you to take it?
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Aug 30, 2017 04:13
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I got a really good deal on a pi once thru the microsoft store w/education discount. Regarding running octopi on pi zero, it will run but don't use the camera and if it's a zero w you probably don't want to use the included wifi chip because it tears thru cpu cycles.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:21
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mewse posted:Regarding running octopi on pi zero, it will run but don't use the camera and if it's a zero w you probably don't want to use the included wifi chip because it tears thru cpu cycles. 100% true from personal experience. In other news, I found a spare mat in the printer box like the stock one that came on the bed, so I'm ditching the glass before restarting my big print. It caught my fan duct because one of the corners wasn't adhered to the bed very well and curled enough to catch. This is the first project that I've printed that uses almost all of the build area so the warped glass isn't going to cut it at all. edit: I think I have everything dialed in with the new bed surface, so I'm live streaming again with hopefully better results this time. ickna fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 04:30
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Ok, I think I have got everything working, and mostly dialled in.  Thats my latest calibration cube, on the right. The only difference between the two is the filament. Makes me wonder if I needed to upgrade the hotend at all, but ehhhhhhh too late. Got a boaty popping out now thats looking better than anything I have done before, so heres hoping.
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Aug 30, 2017 06:34
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ickna posted:edit: I think I have everything dialed in with the new bed surface, so I'm live streaming again with hopefully better results this time. Uh oh, camera one has frozen...
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Aug 30, 2017 15:18
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If I have a .4mm nozzle, what's the thickest layer I can make with it? I normally use .2, but I'd like to do some quick and dirty prints just to prototype some things, but I dunno if there's some formula for nozzle size v layer size.
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Aug 30, 2017 15:26
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As long as you go a little slow and hotter, .3 is no problem. I haven't gone any thicker though.
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Aug 30, 2017 15:35
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:If I have a .4mm nozzle, what's the thickest layer I can make with it? I have heard to not exceed 3/4 of your nozzle size, I haven't tried pushing it but it seems to work for me
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Aug 30, 2017 15:47
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Cool. I'll give .25 a shot and .3 and see if there's any major diff in time/quality. Sometimes you just want to see how big something is, instead of how detailed it can be. Thanks for the help! Also, new Cura out today too! 2.7 I think.
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Aug 30, 2017 16:47
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3d printing is still pretty cool.
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Aug 30, 2017 18:54
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Jestery posted:I have heard to not exceed 3/4 of your nozzle size, I haven't tried pushing it but it seems to work for me
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Aug 30, 2017 18:55
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Finished the test print at 2/3 size and 0.2 instead of 0.1 mm. Definately lost detail but its pretty cool still, the missile pods I forgot to turn off support for and now I cant get it out, but still. Also balances on one leg pretty well.  edit: Woops, when you set the scale wrong 
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Aug 30, 2017 21:39
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My pet project for the last month has been designing brackets for a cage system for a dji Phantom. I likely have posted this before but it is entering its final stages and I am significantly chuffed about this fact After about 12 iterations and 500g of filament and pulled hair. I have made the brackets Design sheet was "Where ever there is tape make a well fitting bracket."  Brackets + giant benchy  I am doing a test fit on Saturday and will update with pictures.
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Aug 30, 2017 23:15
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Kea posted:Finished the test print at 2/3 size and 0.2 instead of 0.1 mm. Definately lost detail but its pretty cool still, the missile pods I forgot to turn off support for and now I cant get it out, but still. That's awesome. Sometimes I feel a pang of misgiving in spending a lot of money on a prosumer grade 3D printer (Raise3D N2) instead of a serviceable but much cheaper e.g. Prusa but every time I do a 60+ hour print job which it does perfectly every time without breaking a sweat, I feel like I made the right decision.  The striations on the layers are not great but maybe more visible than usual because of the white filament and the highly regular shape. It's eSUN PLA+ which I have settled on as being kind of a best of the actually available and reasonably priced filaments out there. Still, the white seems less neat than other colors. e: It's two halves of the base of a vise like assembly I'm working on, nothing very visual I'm afraid just an example of a fresh 60+ hour print.
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Aug 31, 2017 04:24
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Mister Sinewave posted:It's eSUN PLA+ which I have settled on as being kind of a best of the actually available and reasonably priced filaments out there. Still, the white seems less neat than other colors. That's the same stuff I have been using, it's pretty great. I have an untouched roll of their PETG that I haven't used yet because the PLA+ has been working so well for everything I've needed to do so far.   My enclosure finished printing and came out pretty good. I'm thinking about reprinting the lid, though. It was done on the glass bed a few weeks back and with the warping it doesn't quite sit flush, plus the tolerances around the screen cut out are just a little too tight. In regards to streaming, I've learned that the OBS browser source plugin crashes frequently and is terribly unreliable for streaming over longer time spans. The main camera feed froze up at one point during the night and the print status info box had to be reloaded manually several times over the print run, so I'll be looking into a different way of getting the print status out of octoprint. Maybe something that receives and formats MQTT messages that it is already sending to my home automation dashboard. I'll also be ditching the Pi's camera as the main video feed for the stream, since it has to be embedded with the browser plugin. Fortunately, I have a Logitech C920 arriving tomorrow, which will be higher quality anyways and let me bump up the resolution to 1080p. I definitely want to keep this overall setup for streaming, though; not really concerned about being some kind of youtube superstar, it is just handy for several other reasons. One, being able to check on things when I have to leave without VPN/Remote Desktop and loading the octoprint interface. I'll only have to do that if I need to stop the print. Two, sharing with friends and family who want to see what I'm working on; when I have people over and something is printing they like to come sit in the closet and watch it print for a while. Lastly, it's handy to be able to rewind and see where something went wrong and have the potential comedy on hand, without filling my local drive up with video files.
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Aug 31, 2017 04:50
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Mister Sinewave posted:That's awesome. Those corners though. 
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Aug 31, 2017 05:01
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Kea posted:edit: Woops, when you set the scale wrong That's very nice quality for that scale. re. layer height I have had no problems printing 0.3mm with a 0.4 nozzle, and 0.35 is usually fine as well. 0.4 works, but looks messy -- moreso than printing 0.5 with a 1mm volcano. I assume it's because of the lack of compression. So the 0.75*nozzle diameter rule sounds right to me.
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Aug 31, 2017 05:13
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Sagebrush posted:That's very nice quality for that scale. Yep, I print at 0.6 with a 0.8 nozzle. I find my sweet spot for looks is half. 0.4 on the 0.8 nozzle looks as good as 0.2 on a 0.4 nozzle, within reason. Part of my job is writing articles for our customers for every filament we sell so I get to play with s lot of filament, last week was Proto-pasta Matte Fiber and the white is fantastic for art and statues. It also sands and paints really well.  I bought some for myself because the missus wants more skull planters, and I want to do a life size skull bowl. Megabound fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Aug 31, 2017 |
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Aug 31, 2017 10:14
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