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Dead Goon posted:I guess I have been unlucky with my progression from Sky Fibre to BT Infinity to Virgin Media. I'm genuinely surprised. For me it was just ticking the box for modem only mode and that was it.
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Aug 25, 2017 17:06
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There was a known issue about a year ago where the combination of the Hub3-in-modem mode and Arris gear at the VM end would lead to a regular loss of connection every 35 minutes (you were ok if they had Cisco gear in your area). All in all the Hub3 is an awful bit of gear.
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Aug 26, 2017 19:19
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The 5G wifi antenna on my Archer C9 has stopped broadcasting properly (it comes in and out) and it's receiving/sending 0 packets as well. Should I factory reset, or should I just get a new router? This thing's only lasted me 6 months 
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Aug 27, 2017 16:12
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BoyBlunder posted:The 5G wifi antenna on my Archer C9 has stopped broadcasting properly (it comes in and out) and it's receiving/sending 0 packets as well. Time to cash in your warranty
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Aug 27, 2017 17:13
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According to the Wikipedia entry, AV1200 powerline adapters, because they have MIMO, are actually about twice as fast in real world performance as AV1000 adapters. Is this right? I'm only going to have 75mbps internet for the next year, so there's no need to pay the premium for AV2000. For reference, I got about 28mbps with an AV500 kit which I returned, because I get that over WiFi. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 17:30
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CrazyLittle posted:Time to cash in your warranty Yeah, tried a 30-30-30 Reset, and it's still hosed. Ugh.
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Aug 27, 2017 17:44
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Josh Lyman posted:According to the Wikipedia entry, AV1200 powerline adapters, because they have MIMO, are actually about twice as fast in real world performance as AV1000 adapters. Is this right? I'm only going to have 75mbps internet for the next year, so there's no need to pay the premium for AV2000. I went from some 500s that gave me about 30mbps to some 1200s that gave me 60-70ish, so for me it was worth it. Then I ran a cable because I got a free bump to 150mbps from my provider.
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Aug 27, 2017 19:06
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Josh Lyman posted:According to the Wikipedia entry, AV1200 powerline adapters, because they have MIMO, are actually about twice as fast in real world performance as AV1000 adapters. Is this right? I'm only going to have 75mbps internet for the next year, so there's no need to pay the premium for AV2000. If the speed does matter to you, my anecdote of upgrading from an AV1200 kit to AV2000 has them doubling the throughput to the farthest rooms from my electrical box--from 45mbps to the maximum 90mbps that I get from my ISP.
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Aug 27, 2017 20:09
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Alright, it sounds like Wikipedia is a lying liar and the difference between AV1200 and AV1000 just isn't there. Guess I'll get this: https://www.amazon.com/Tenda-AV1000-Gigabit-Powerline-1000Mbps/dp/B01N1JN6CV/
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Aug 27, 2017 20:30
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Yeah, I wired up with an AV2000 kit (bought at 83$ from Jet w coupon) which was like 10 bucks more than a 1200 kit. I get the max speed from cable (adv 60, I get up to 70)
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Aug 27, 2017 23:17
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For an incredibly stupid reason I have a Asus n56u router on the other side of a brick wall and 20 feet from an Asus PCE-AC55BT wireless card. Everything works but occasionally my ping doubles or more making it really hard to land hardcore skill shots. Should I A. get a new router with stronger broadcasting (and AC so things match) B. get a couple of RP-SMA cables and move the antenna 10 feet closer to the wall. C. wireless extender to bridge the gap All three options are roughly the same cost 25-75$ but whats the most effective option. Internet speed is only 30 Mbps up 5 down but I just found out that I can double that for 10$ which may happen.
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Aug 29, 2017 02:13
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MasterBuilder posted:For an incredibly stupid reason I have a Asus n56u router on the other side of a brick wall and 20 feet from an Asus PCE-AC55BT wireless card. Everything works but occasionally my ping doubles or more making it really hard to land hardcore skill shots. Should I A. get a new router with stronger broadcasting (and AC so things match) B. get a couple of RP-SMA cables and move the antenna 10 feet closer to the wall. C. wireless extender to bridge the gap Moving the antenna ten feet won’t really make a difference. Wireless extenders all blow last time I checked, but to be fair, I gave up on them some time ago. Getting a new router isn’t a bad idea but may not be a silver bullet. My first choice would be powerline networking. It sidesteps any problems with wireless hardware or congestion and will easily keep up with your connection. Alternatively, I can tell you that a pair of Ubiquiti NanoStation locoM2s will be rock solid through a brick wall. They are, however, expensive and not that fast (still plenty for 30 Mbps).
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Aug 29, 2017 02:30
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Once you've collected yourselves after being in awe of my amazing 9am slap job paint skills, I need your help ISP is coming any time at all now and I'm not sure how to go about wiring everything in my new house in clean and tidy fashion. My plan is to mount the router above the TV in the living room, I'm gonna hardwire the TV, PS3 and her Xbox and run the last cable under the floor over to my office. In here, I have an 8 port switch, which I've tentatively placed on my main (gaming) desk. I just have my main rig here, and my NAS to wire, then I also have my printer that I was gonna stick on the work desk, but then I also work on sometimes multiple devices at once that I like to have hardwired as well. The problem being, I dont want to really run those cables from the switch, right around the room to the opposite corner where my work desk is. But do I want to go back under the floor and run them that way over to the opposite corner for that desk? I would have to run the cables all individually, or get another switch for over there. I mount the switch central to everything, then all the cables have to run some distance to where they are going. To summarise, I have the TV, PS3 & One in the living room, all next to each other. She still has the 360 but for the once a year we'll turn it on wifi is fine for that. I have my main rig, my NAS and printer in the office, as well as maybe 1-3 devices I could be working on that I want to have hard wired. Whats the cleanest way to go about it?
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Aug 29, 2017 13:38
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Platystemon posted:Moving the antenna ten feet won’t really make a difference.
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Aug 29, 2017 16:35
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Are we literally talking about two rooms in the same building with different breakers on a single panel? Powerline works fine for that.
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Aug 29, 2017 17:12
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No. It's a house that has been subdivided into a four unit building. Each apartment has a separate breaker box and electricity meter. As far as I know each unit is electrically segregated but it's an older house so I could be wrong.
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Aug 29, 2017 20:28
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I would still be tempted to try Powerline in that case, just get it from somewhere with a good return policy.
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Aug 30, 2017 00:03
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So I think I solved it. Started to run WLAN optimizer from http://www.martin-majowski.de/downloads.html Also the intel chip in the card seems to have documented issues with ping spikes when scanning for new networks (manually and in the background) so another solution was to add scanwhenassociated regkey. That combination seems to have settled the 2.4GHz channel to a ping of 50 for DOTA without the periodic tripling I was seeing before.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:07
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I will shortly be buying some switches, APs etc and I have a few questions. I have read the OP. The shopping list is going to be something like: - 2 or 3 wifi APs (currently looking at these https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Business-Insight-Management-WAC510-10000S/dp/B01N1GEEQP/) - Something with maybe a dozen gigabit PoE ports (powering the APs and future security camera expansion) - 50+ gigabit ports, would be nice if 6+ of them were 10Gbit - A "really good" firewall. The last firewall I had was a custom FreeBSD box and I'm not that person anymore. "really good" for me means it does its job well and isn't a pain to manage, ideally acting in a way where I can review or monitor incoming and outgoing connections to set up rules for them. - QoS as a nice-to-have - Rackmount ideally My questions: 1. I see Ubiquiti mentioned so they're top of my research list, but is there any particular benefit to buying everything from them and staying in their ~ecosystem~? 2. For the QoS/firewall I guess I'm after a managed switch? Or should I be getting a standalone box? My experience is with unmanaged switches. 3. Any particular specific suggestions before I go down the research rabbit hole? I'd put my budget in the "significant but not bonfire of banknotes" range.
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Aug 30, 2017 18:30
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Why 6 10 Gbit ports? You wanna open several LAGs to universities or something? Not gonna find that on a switch that also has a ton of gigabit ports. I'd go for UBNT before I went for those plasticy netgear APs that are apparently managed primarily by phone? Router depends, if you wanna do basic NAT and QoS, an EdgeRouter can do that and has a fairly simple interface. If you want 6x10 Gbit performance, you might need to go for something else. A managed switch is not a firewall nor does it do QoS, even a L3 switch is useless for that. SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 18:46
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SEKCobra posted:Why 6 10 Gbit ports? You wanna open several LAGs to universities or something? Not gonna find that on a switch that also has a ton of gigabit ports. 6 is approx, but I regularly throw around TBs of data between my workstation, NAS, and hundreds of GB through the media devices. The small number of 10Gbit and the high number of 1Gbit don't have to be on the same device if it's impractical, likewise for the PoE. SEKCobra posted:I'd go for UBNT before I went for those plasticy netgear APs that are apparently managed primarily by phone? Fair enough, I'll give them good consideration. SEKCobra posted:A managed switch is not a firewall nor does it do QoS, even a L3 switch is useless for that. Could you clarify this in the OP for me? I must've misunderstood it: The OP posted:Managed switches support things like VLANs, port security, QoS, Link Aggregation, and web/network interfaces
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Aug 30, 2017 18:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:6 is approx, but I regularly throw around TBs of data between my workstation, NAS, and hundreds of GB through the media devices. The small number of 10Gbit and the high number of 1Gbit don't have to be on the same device if it's impractical, likewise for the PoE. You can get PoE 48 Port Gigabit Switches no problemo. Are you sure your hardware can use 10 GbIt? (HDDs, NAS, whatever) If you really want it, get a 10 Gbit Switch, you can at least connect it to your Gigabit Switch as a backbone device, your Router won't support it most likely. (Switch-)Port security has nothing to do with firewalls, QoS is part of switches too, but I'd assume you want it for your Internet, so you need it on your router. I doubt you'll saturate Gigabit or 10 Gigabit in your home to the point that you'd need to prioritize your internal traffic. VLANs are great for segregation, but they require a good router to keep any sort of speed, definitely not something you'll wanna do in a 10 Gig network.
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Aug 30, 2017 19:48
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SEKCobra posted:You can get PoE 48 Port Gigabit Switches no problemo. My assumption was that a full PoE switch would increase the cost significantly, is it a negligible difference compared to an unpowered 48 port switch and an 8 port PoE switch? SEKCobra posted:Are you sure your hardware can use 10 GbIt? (HDDs, NAS, whatever) I thought it did but I did a double check and nope, 1Gbit only. Ignore that then, I'll expand later as appropriate. SEKCobra posted:(Switch-)Port security has nothing to do with firewalls, QoS is part of switches too, but I'd assume you want it for your Internet, so you need it on your router. I doubt you'll saturate Gigabit or 10 Gigabit in your home to the point that you'd need to prioritize your internal traffic. Ah I see. Yeah I don't need any of that stuff for LAN traffic. The Netgear wifi router I have now in my much more normal setup does have these sorts of features with the Tomato-style flashed firmware, but it (as with all routers I've ever had) has trash usability and I just don't trust it to do a good job. I'd love to stick a box in between my modem and the switch(es) to handle this stuff. SEKCobra posted:VLANs are great for segregation, but they require a good router to keep any sort of speed, definitely not something you'll wanna do in a 10 Gig network. Yeah I won't be needing VLANs for my purposes. Edit: My goal is to have very strong control (ideally with QoS) to and from the internet but it's totally fine to be a free-for-all within the local network. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 20:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:1. I see Ubiquiti mentioned so they're top of my research list, but is there any particular benefit to buying everything from them and staying in their ~ecosystem~? If you get everything within the Unifi product range (APs, switch, security gateway, cloudkey), you can manage it all through a single interface.
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Aug 30, 2017 20:08
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This look about right?
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Aug 30, 2017 20:40
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Jaded Burnout posted:This look about right? Check with the seller if the cameras include the af to passive poe converter(the sku should end with af), they are much more reliable than included power bricks. EDIT: Where are you going to store the recorded videos? Unifi video requires either a vm with storage or its own appliance(called unifi nvr) SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 21:02
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SlowBloke posted:Check with the seller if the cameras include the af to passive poe converter(the sku should end with af), they are much more reliable than included power bricks. It looks like the US-48-500W supports autosensing passive 24V as well as af/at. SlowBloke posted:EDIT: Where are you going to store the recorded videos? Unifi video requires either a vm with storage or its own appliance(called unifi nvr) I've got a NAS and I assumed (uh oh) that I could dump it on there somehow. It's just occurred to me that I've not accounted for cameras when running network lines as I was planning on vaguely "dealing with it later". Better get those in before all the ceilings get plastered. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 21:17
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Jaded Burnout posted:It looks like the US-48-500W supports autosensing passive 24V as well as af/at. Passive 24v is something you want to avoid if possible(if you connect a standard Poe device without passive power sensing you are going to fry it, unifi uap have the circuitry to go failsafe, other brands don't), if you have the possibility to pay the same or a minimal expense I suggest to get the af injector equipped kit. You are going to need a device(vm within nas for instance) that runs the unifi video software. A Linux vm with a couple of gigs of ram and 250+ g of storage will suffice.
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Aug 30, 2017 21:38
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SlowBloke posted:Passive 24v is something you want to avoid if possible(if you connect a standard Poe device without passive power sensing you are going to fry it, unifi uap have the circuitry to go failsafe, other brands don't), if you have the possibility to pay the same or a minimal expense I suggest to get the af injector equipped kit. What I mean is the switch supports both passive and af/at, unless I'm misunderstanding? So it shouldn't matter what I connect to it.
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Aug 30, 2017 21:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:What I mean is the switch supports both passive and af/at, unless I'm misunderstanding? So it shouldn't matter what I connect to it. Yes, It can provide both type of power over Ethernet. My general uneasiness with passive Poe is mostly about possible device damage. For instance if you fat finger wiring up a port that you set up for a camera to say your smart tv I cannot guarantee that your smart tv will like it(and survive the experience). Passive Poe doesn't "sense" device compatibility like active Poe, it constantly pump power to the port if it detects a device connected to. G3 wired cameras are passive either way but by having all ports drive active Poe with af converters and negotiate power capabilities before delivering you can avoid frying devices you connect to the wrong switch port. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 22:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:This look about right? You don't technically need the Cloud Key if you want to save the £70. If you've got an always-on PC, you can run it there. It also doesn't have to be running 24/7 if all you want to use it for is configuration. Only if you want logging for device stats, or a captive gateway for guest wireless clients does it have to be running 24/7. Jaded Burnout posted:What I mean is the switch supports both passive and af/at, unless I'm misunderstanding? So it shouldn't matter what I connect to it. Yes, the switch supports passive 24v, it's a setting you have to set on a per-port basis. Just be careful not to enable it on a port that's connected to a device that won't support it. Also, it seems Ubiquiti has been putting 802.3af/at in some of their previously 24v only devices, and not documenting the change. I recently got a UAP-AC-Lite, which if you look on their website is only 24v, but is actually 802.af compatible.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:08
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, it seems Ubiquiti has been putting 802.3af/at in some of their previously 24v only devices, and not documenting the change. I recently got a UAP-AC-Lite, which if you look on their website is only 24v, but is actually 802.af compatible. All unifi ac access point can be driven by af or at active Poe if they are manufactured after September 2016. Cameras are still 24v only but you can buy them with an af instant converter in the box for certain models. Switches were supposed to phase out passive Poe but they suffered massive backslash by not changing sku codes for the new variants so they backed off, only new models won't support passive Poe for now
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Aug 30, 2017 22:20
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SlowBloke posted:Yes, It can provide both type of power over Ethernet. My general uneasiness with passive Poe is mostly about possible device damage. For instance if you fat finger wiring up a port that you set up for a camera to say your smart tv I cannot guarantee that your smart tv will like it(and survive the experience). n0tqu1tesane posted:Yes, the switch supports passive 24v, it's a setting you have to set on a per-port basis. Just be careful not to enable it on a port that's connected to a device that won't support it. Right, I understand. Thanks both for explaining. n0tqu1tesane posted:You don't technically need the Cloud Key if you want to save the £70. If you've got an always-on PC, you can run it there. It also doesn't have to be running 24/7 if all you want to use it for is configuration. Only if you want logging for device stats, or a captive gateway for guest wireless clients does it have to be running 24/7. Fair enough. Do you know where on ubiquiti's blasted website the downloads are for these "install it on a linux box" pieces of software? Like the AV recorder one too? There'll be a local server available for this sort of thing. n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, it seems Ubiquiti has been putting 802.3af/at in some of their previously 24v only devices, and not documenting the change. I recently got a UAP-AC-Lite, which if you look on their website is only 24v, but is actually 802.af compatible. I did a bit of a search and it seems like the G3 will be the last passive camera, I suppose it's possible they've standardised the internals to af, I guess we'll see when I get them.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:25
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It's a lovely thing to do if you're trying to be an enterprise switching provider to have different hardware feature sets under the same SKU. Especially if the difference is a removed feature.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:26
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SlowBloke posted:Cameras are still 24v only but you can buy them with an af instant converter in the box for certain models. Yeah the box of 5 doesn't come with any so I'll have to weigh that up.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:26
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Jaded Burnout posted:Fair enough. Do you know where on ubiquiti's blasted website the downloads are for these "install it on a linux box" pieces of software? Like the AV recorder one too? There'll be a local server available for this sort of thing. If you use ubuntu there are repos that you can use to install the controller(apt-get install unifi) SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 22:30
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Jaded Burnout posted:Fair enough. Do you know where on ubiquiti's blasted website the downloads are for these "install it on a linux box" pieces of software? Like the AV recorder one too? There'll be a local server available for this sort of thing. https://www.ubnt.com/download/unifi-video https://www.ubnt.com/download/unifi On both pages, scroll down below the Firmware to get to the software. They've got Linux, Windows, and MacOS installs.
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Aug 30, 2017 22:32
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I've read the thread title, and I've read the last few pages, and just wanted to ask if the C5 was still a good purchase for a "set it and forget it" router. Amazon reviews seem to indicate there was a 2016 refresh that hosed up the 2.4ghz band.
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Sep 4, 2017 23:35
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sincx fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Mar 23, 2021 |
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Sep 5, 2017 09:47
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I have a buffalo whr-g3oon connected to my modem, and I had connected another buffalo whr-g3oon and disabled the wan to use it as a repeater. I've been using this setup for several years, and it mostly works fine except for the expected weirdness when you're in between the two. Recently, I've been having a very weird problem with the router connected to the modem. Every once in a while, the LAN ports of this router will stop working, but the wifi network will still work. Since the 2nd router is connected via Ethernet, any devices connected to it lose internet access, and cannot even see the 1st router. It appears to only happen when there is a lot of activity on the 2nd router's network. My first instinct was to simply swap the routers to see if it was a hardware issue, but it didn't fix anything. Is this something fixable by software, or would I be better off just buying a new router?
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