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I really like purple for a gold wash. Makes it feel super rich and regal and injects some color without dirtying it. I use golden high flow acrylic dioxazine purple transparent, but gw purple ink is probably effectively the same thing. Also helps combat the flat yellow butter look you have there in places.
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Sep 1, 2017 17:27
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Thanks for all the advice, everyone. I'll probably test some stuff out tonight. I've seen people online that used Purple wash to help give it an antiqued look, so i might try that. But i'll definitely hit it with a targeted wash. Also can't wait to go over that power sword again, lol
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Sep 1, 2017 18:27
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dr_ether posted:Finished some Kingdom Death models over the last two nights. Guessing everyone's ignoring these cause they Kingdom Death but they are some sweet paintjobs.
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Sep 2, 2017 00:01
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BIG MEATY SHITS posted:Guessing everyone's ignoring these cause they Kingdom Death but they are some sweet paintjobs. I didn't comment because I don't comment in this thread much but yeah, those are rad. Especially the skull guy and the scythe.
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Sep 2, 2017 01:27
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I whipped up a quick gif to try and convey what i want to try and do.
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Sep 2, 2017 03:55
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Finished up 1/2 Kastelans tonight for a game on Sunday. Base is still drying. Love how dirty he ended up.    
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Sep 2, 2017 04:15
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Will this airbrush work for priming and basecoating? I'm broke as hell, but want something basic. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFEB23E/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I34DN6EV186L5J&colid=1HMWYS84AY0A0&th=1
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Sep 2, 2017 07:16
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flamingweedle posted:Will this airbrush work for priming and basecoating? I'm broke as hell, but want something basic. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFEB23E/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I34DN6EV186L5J&colid=1HMWYS84AY0A0&th=1 It'll probably do an okay job for really basic work, but for long-term use you'll want one with a tank. That compressor will run constantly while you hold down the trigger, and you'll likely see a "pulse" as the pressure hits peaks and valleys with the rhythm of the motor. Having a tank allows the stored air to release at a steady rate through the airbrush, which will give you smoother, more consistent coats. What you'll really want is something more like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017640RK?psc=1 It's from the same company, and also relatively cheap, but you'll get better use out of it. (Likely *more* use, also--the storage tank allows the compressor motor to rest more often, and the less the motor runs, the longer it lasts.)
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Sep 2, 2017 07:43
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Dr. Gargunza posted:It'll probably do an okay job for really basic work, but for long-term use you'll want one with a tank. That compressor will run constantly while you hold down the trigger, and you'll likely see a "pulse" as the pressure hits peaks and valleys with the rhythm of the motor. Having a tank allows the stored air to release at a steady rate through the airbrush, which will give you smoother, more consistent coats. Thanks. I'll probably just hold off on it then.
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Sep 2, 2017 18:40
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 Some Nurgle dudes.
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Sep 2, 2017 21:07
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Toalpaz posted:Hi! Sorry to derail the thread, I just spent 7 hours painting in anticipation for a local tournament and I'm pretty proud of how decent I'm getting at it. Here's some USArianda models with the obligatory Azra'il/Blackjack proxy. Cross posting from the Infinity thread because I'm pretty happy about what I've done but definitely wouldn't mind advice for the future and cleaning up these fellas. Toalpaz fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 03:32
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Toalpaz posted:Cross posting from the Infinity thread because I'm pretty happy about what I've done but definitely wouldn't mind advice for the future and cleaning up these fellas. Lighting akin to the post above would be a good start. These are shot how I do it when I post here (which is pretty poor). You want a good white box with lighting etc
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Sep 3, 2017 03:58
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What would be the best texture paint to use for snowy tundra bases? I have Valhallan snow and flock but not sure what kind of base colour to use for it.
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Sep 3, 2017 13:04
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Cooked Auto posted:What would be the best texture paint to use for snowy tundra bases? I have Valhallan snow and flock but not sure what kind of base colour to use for it. A light blue mixed with white always makes a decent undercoat for snow flock. Something like P3 Frostbite with some white blended in, for instance. Paint that onto the surface you'll be glopping your snow mix onto and the snow will look that much more white and opaque when it dries. (Pro tip: If you're using the traditional glue-paint-flock recipe, leave a bit of the underlying surface unpainted around where you're adding the snow; that will give it a more translucent look at the edges.) For GW texture paints, I have slightly less advice; I've only used the Valhallan Snow paint once or twice, and didn't like the slightly-grey look of it, so I switched to Woodland Scenics snow flock. You could always let the Valhallan Snow dry, then hit it with a very thinned blue wash (like 10:1 water/medium and Guilliman Blue, for instance) and then drybrush some white over it, if you want to improve the look. I think SRM has a good snow recipe for his nifty Guard troops, but I'm on my phone and just woke up and haven't had coffee yet....
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Sep 3, 2017 14:07
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I think SRM has a good snow recipe for his nifty Guard troops, but I'm on my phone and just woke up and haven't had coffee yet.... Yeah I've seen the video in this case for it. I have 50 Space Wolves painted up in 30k colours that needs to be based and going for an Agrellan Earth as the base and then Valhallan Snow on top of that would've just looked like a desert had snowed over so I was looking for other alternatives. If not I'll just go with a darker brown like Stirland Mud/Battlemire and hope it makes it look like taiga or something. I also have 9 1k sons painted in white/gold/blue but for that I'm just going to go with a darker base for contrast. Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 14:51 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 14:29
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I'm thinking about doing some Imperial Fists with my Dark Imperium box, and trying the glaze method of getting yellow. Not sure what to use for a base though, considering the following method: Airbrush Skeleton Bone -> Brush Recess Agrax Gloss -> Airbrush Wash Casandora Yellow -> Brush Glaze Lamenter's Yellow The other base options I was wondering about is Averland Sunset, or Army Painter Desert Yellow. I don't want the Fists too bright and lemony.
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Sep 3, 2017 15:10
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Shadin posted:I'm thinking about doing some Imperial Fists with my Dark Imperium box, and trying the glaze method of getting yellow. Not sure what to use for a base though, considering the following method: I use averland sunset then lamenters. Just those two. Turns out like the hazard stripes on my Star Justicar here: 
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Sep 3, 2017 15:17
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Zuul the Cat posted:I use averland sunset then lamenters. Just those two. Turns out like the hazard stripes on my Star Justicar here: Thanks for that example, that looks really good. I knew Averland looked a bit too brown on its own according to my highly scientific test of smearing some on a palette. Now I'm kind of curious if I could lazy paint Dark Angels using a white primer and Biel-Tan Green.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:05
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The nurgle guys a few posts back have some patches of Valhalla blizzard, I think it works quite well. If you wet the edges of it when smoothing it becomes I nice crushed looking ice.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:07
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richyp posted:The nurgle guys a few posts back have some patches of Valhalla blizzard, I think it works quite well. If you wet the edges of it when smoothing it becomes I nice crushed looking ice. Looks pretty good idea. I'll probably just pick up one of the darker textured paints from the FLGS and do some testing with washes and such.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:09
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Shadin posted:Thanks for that example, that looks really good. I knew Averland looked a bit too brown on its own according to my highly scientific test of smearing some on a palette. It is a very dull yellow. If you want it to pop a bit more, I recommend going over it with Flash Gitz Yellow to highlight it.
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Sep 3, 2017 17:47
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Anyone got a recommendation for a Citadel pot that'll highlight Abbadon Black well? Trying to highlight some black robes on some Imperial Assault minis.
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Sep 4, 2017 00:48
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Quidthulhu posted:Anyone got a recommendation for a Citadel pot that'll highlight Abbadon Black well? Trying to highlight some black robes on some Imperial Assault minis. Dark Reaper+Thunderhawk Blue if you want softer highlights Eshin Grey+Dawnstone if you want sharper highlights.
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Sep 4, 2017 00:54
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Thank you! I have a lot of these already 
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Sep 4, 2017 00:56
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Cross post from HH. I made a primarch.    Yes, his nose is missing.
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Sep 4, 2017 02:29
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GreenMarine posted:Cross post from HH. I made a primarch. Fits the character. Awesome work on the armor bronze and the cloak blending. I'm putting off doing my angron until I can figure out how to best do the mixed textures. Any tips?
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Sep 4, 2017 02:34
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Decided on a scheme for my sisters of silence. Doing bone white and red, and started on my Rhino today.    
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Sep 4, 2017 07:47
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Zuul the Cat posted:Decided on a scheme for my sisters of silence. Doing bone white and red, and started on my Rhino today. That's some clean work. I love bone schemes, are you airbrushing that on? I've always had a bitch of a time getting bone colors to look smooth.
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Sep 4, 2017 13:13
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Oh and here's some content. I'm testing the whole painting only with washes thing on Space Hulk. This is a WIP obviously: 
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Sep 4, 2017 13:15
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Shadin posted:That's some clean work. I love bone schemes, are you airbrushing that on? I've always had a bitch of a time getting bone colors to look smooth. No, it's all brush work. I don't have an airbrush. I'm having a hard time too, but I think it looks as good as it's gonna get for a brush.
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Sep 4, 2017 14:47
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I have a dumb question - I have a metal mini I'm trying to finish up and the drat thing has seams like you wouldn't believe after pinning. I bought a fresh pot of Liquid Greenstuff and the crap is practically solid - incidentally, same as the last pot I grabbed a few months ago. So I guess I actually have TWO questions: 1) Is there any non-Citadel alternative? I absolutely abhor giving them money even when the product isn't poo poo. 2) Is there any hope of thinning the stuff out a little? I mean I really only need it for this one thing so even if I can salvage just a little of it it should be fine. also I swear this mini was more flash than actual sculpt when I got to it, it's a request from a friend but are Knight Models known to be finicky? I try to avoid metal whenever possible but this is like a parody of itself.
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Sep 4, 2017 19:49
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food court bailiff posted:I have a dumb question - I have a metal mini I'm trying to finish up and the drat thing has seams like you wouldn't believe after pinning. I bought a fresh pot of Liquid Greenstuff and the crap is practically solid - incidentally, same as the last pot I grabbed a few months ago. So I guess I actually have TWO questions: You can revive LGS with normal water. It's supposed to be thicker than paint but still have some flow to it. Try not to over thin it, otherwise it shrinks more and you'll have to use more coats of it.
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Sep 4, 2017 19:56
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food court bailiff posted:I have a dumb question - I have a metal mini I'm trying to finish up and the drat thing has seams like you wouldn't believe after pinning. I bought a fresh pot of Liquid Greenstuff and the crap is practically solid - incidentally, same as the last pot I grabbed a few months ago. So I guess I actually have TWO questions: I've used Vallejo Plastic Putty to good effect: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vallejo-M...QQAAOSwzJ5XUaf5
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Sep 4, 2017 21:05
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Zark the Damned posted:I've used Vallejo Plastic Putty to good effect: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vallejo-M...QQAAOSwzJ5XUaf5 Another vote for Vallejo Plastic Putty here. For larger kits like vehicles, Deluxe Materials Putty is great too.
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Sep 4, 2017 21:08
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 Finished the KV-1. Pretty satisfied.
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Sep 4, 2017 21:28
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Working through my Imperial Assault box set, tried my hand at shading cloth for my Red Guard! Definitely learned a lot from working on these. 1. I think I finally figured out JUST HOW MUCH I need to thin my paints! (A lot. It's a lot. It's actually quite a lot.) 2. My brushes are not doing great at holding a tip point anymore and I am really realizing I need to get a lot closer with my pinch hold to the tip of the brush, as well as, you know, thinning the paints. 3. Also continued to learn how to change happy accidents into a design choice  I haven't had a chance to paint for like, a month, so it was nice to get back in to it  Any other feedback would be appreciated (other than "get a new camera" :v )
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Sep 5, 2017 01:34
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  I've been posting some stuff of mine in here, figured it was high time to consolidate in one place. Currently muddling my way through a Necron command barge. VISIT THE GIMMICKY LEDCRONS
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Sep 5, 2017 01:59
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Quidthulhu posted:Working through my Imperial Assault box set, tried my hand at shading cloth for my Red Guard! These guys look pretty good for a first stab at cloth. Red can be a real bitch anyway, but making soft fabric transitions can be even trickier. Are you drybrushing at all after your wash? A single pass with your base red, then several passes with continually lighter reds would really help these guys stand out. Another neat trick specific to these guys and Vader is to hit the whole model with dullcoat after you're done, then go back in and brush on gloss varnish to the plastic/metal bits. Even though the colors are mostly the same, visually it's a really nice effect.
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Sep 5, 2017 20:55
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Am I cursed by exceptionally thin paint, or does it normally take a minimum dozen coats to get brushed-on white up to snuff?
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Sep 5, 2017 21:29
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No, 12 coats seems about right for brushing on a smooth white. White covers pretty badly and is easy to accidently make look gloopy.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:34
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