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Put it back to stock. K&N are only good for actual filter replacements, and even then they're not as good as the stock paper filter in most cases when it comes to filtration quality. K&N was a thing back when it was a choice between 1977-1992 lovely restrictive tunes and intakes for emissions, or 1940-1970's oil bath filters, versus an oil-soaked filter media. Now, with the way things are designed, it's just random reduction in air quality for your engine. On my 1972 Volkswagen: Yes, putting a K&N will flow better and generally filter better than the stock oil bath filter. Plus, I can tune the carburetor and timing to take the most advantage of it. On a 2002 Ford: What the gently caress are you doing does the K&N intake even have the stock resonator aaaaaaahhhhh the computer screams as it tries to work around what you've done
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Sep 3, 2017 04:38
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two_beer_bishes posted:I just bought a 2002 F150 and it has a K&N filter installed, which replaces most of the intake all the way to the intake manifold. The guy gave me all (I think) the original intake parts so I could put it back to stock. Should I leave it alone or put it back to stock? When it comes time to replace the filter find out which one is cheaper. If it's the stock one, put it back.
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Sep 3, 2017 04:38
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The K&N filter is dirty as poo poo so I'd either have to buy the stuff for cleaning and oiling it or buying a new one (and oiling it?), or buy a paper filter for $20. I think I'll just put it back to stock. Thanks for the advice
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Sep 3, 2017 05:04
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that filter oil is some nasty poo poo too
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Sep 3, 2017 05:24
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Wrar posted:I need to make a clutch line to actuate a hydraulic slave TR3650 from a Ford Mustang GT. What connector do I need to hook up the line to the slave? All the Japanese stuff is screw connectors, idk what this clip in poo poo is supposed to look like. Please help. I would expect someone has made a conversion fitting that will take whatever quick connect the slave cylinder has and adapt it to some sort of AN fitting.
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Sep 3, 2017 05:38
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violentlycitrus posted:that filter oil is some nasty poo poo too I just use ATF  maybe that's my problem 
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Sep 3, 2017 05:58
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iroguebot posted:Quick question, whipped into my apartment parking lot a little too fast and scratched paint with the rear bumper of the car next to me. Black marks on both points where cars rubbed, about a foot in length each, no physical dents and maybe a inch of physical paint scratched up on his car. I rear ended a guy in a newish Honda CRV a few years back, like maybe 2014? He got a repair quote from a shop for $350, I mailed him a check. His bumper had some paint damage and a few indentations in the plastic. Prices vary wildly depending on the shop and nature of the repair. Hard to estimate without pictures.
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Sep 3, 2017 06:26
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Hikaki posted:I have a 2016 Miata and my mechanic discovered that one of my wheels is slightly bent at the inner lip. I had no clue since there was no unusual vibration (or maybe I can't tell since NVH is already not good with this car) even with it fitted on the steering axle, and it still holds air fine. I know that it is definitely bent since he spun it on the balancing machine for me to see. The wheel has since been relocated to the drive axle. How bad is the bend? If it's minor you can ignore it imo.
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Sep 3, 2017 06:28
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After a month of stalking Gumtree, I gave up on finding any wheels or seconhand tyres that would fit my Starlet without messing up the speedo... horray, regional Australia (and sellers who don't know/can't be arsed to figure out the offset of their wheels). 4 new tyres and an alignment later, I'm a happy camper though. Really great to have the peace of mind. I had asked the shop to fit the best of the six year old, balding tyres to the spare (as it still had the original from 1997 in the boot...), but they said they were too low on tread for them to do so. I swung by the wreckers and of course there weren't any good tyres in my size, so I got a 175/70/13 instead of a 165/70/13. In the event of a flat, would that be fine for say, 100-200kms to get home and get it replaced with a properly sized one? * * * I've been getting busy with work and am still waiting on some parts to arrive before I dive into messing with that subwoofer, but hoping to get to it next weekend. I couldn't find any 8 pin Molex connectors at the tip, I assume there's no issue if I cut down a bigger one from an old PC power supply down? Seems like it would fit, don't have a Dremel so figured I'd heat up my soldering iron and melt the part I don't want off. Also, will be going from a beefy 8ga power wire from the battery down to one of those computer power supply wires... that's OK, right? Don't see what other choice I have, but wanted to be sure. Re: wiring so there's no interference: I know best practice is to do power on one side and audio on the other... if I was also doing rear speakers (undecided at this point), should those go down the same side as the audio inputs to the sub, or with the power one? Grakkus posted:I've been offered a 1994 Citroen XM wagon that I want to buy for hauling stuff around in, but it doesn't have A/C. Assuming I could get hold of the OEM A/C system for the car, how much work would it be to get it in and working? Speaking in general terms of course, I don't expect it's a job many people have done on XMs before A bit late on this, but if it's just as a stuff-hauler (ie no passengers you need to keep happy) and you don't live somewhere brutally hot you'd be spending a lot of time idling in traffic, I'd just get a fan that clips to the vents and is powered by the cig lighter. A tint can also go a long way to helping keep a car from getting too hot inside. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 12:59 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 12:38
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Not sure if this has been brought up, but what's the stance on using ethanol free gas? I'm in Canada and it's apparently pretty common.
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Sep 3, 2017 14:58
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On a modern car, it's fine. Especially in a location that doesn't get very hot. If you've got a carb, you *may* have issues. Older gaskets and lines don't like it and can be eaten away. You can also get weird reactions with certain pot metal parts. Everything on the market now (replacement parts, gaskets, etc) should be fine. My Holley 3367 HATED E-10. Finally had it rebuilt by someone who knows what he's doing (recommended by the guy who ran the Corvette and Camaro plants in the 60s and 70s) and now it's fine. But if it's too hot out, the pressure in the gas tank goes up enough to vent enough to fill the cab with fumes. That made for a really fun road trip through Kansas during a heat wave with temps close to 110. Driving down I-70 literally sticking my head out the loving window. I'm not a fan of E-10 because of that trip alone. Car runs fine on it now, though. Godholio fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 15:54
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Spagghentleman posted:Not sure if this has been brought up, but what's the stance on using ethanol free gas? I'm in Canada and it's apparently pretty common. It's very car dependent. The rubber in older fuel systems can break down and cause issues. I have a friend who was working on a Citroen SM. There are gooey chunks in the carburetor float bowl. Since the car won't start, he can't raise it up to get at the fuel lines because hydropneumatic suspension lol. The little fuel filter is perforated. (It's clear) My Scirocco had some issues but mostly were manifested as fuel filters that became clogged after less than a year. Keep in mind the fuel filter is huge on this car (like a soda can) and system pressure is 80psi on CIS. I replaced all the rubber fuel hoses I could find, and the problem didn't stop until I replaced the last little bit attached to the secondary in-tank fuel pump for the fuel return. On older cars - ethanol can be bad. Newer cars with vinyl fuel lines instead of rubber seem to be okay. Ethanol gas is unavoidable in some states in the US unless you get it at a racetrack or an airport. In my area I can find it but it's only available in premium and costs like $1 more a gallon.
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Sep 3, 2017 15:55
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Spagghentleman posted:Not sure if this has been brought up, but what's the stance on using ethanol free gas? I'm in Canada and it's apparently pretty common. For the last 40 years, cars have been designed around the assumption that the fuel will contain 10% ethanol. There is no advantage to using ethanol-free gasoline on a modern car except for getting about 3% better gas mileage. If you are driving something more than 30 or so years old, then ethanol-free gas would probably be a good idea, as many of them will have tubing and gaskets or zinc carburetor parts that are attacked by ethanol.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:33
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A lot of turbo direct injection cars really like some ethanol in the mix. Fords Ecoboosts in particular.
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Sep 3, 2017 16:38
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Ethics_Gradient posted:After a month of stalking Gumtree, I gave up on finding any wheels or seconhand tyres that would fit my Starlet without messing up the speedo... horray, regional Australia (and sellers who don't know/can't be arsed to figure out the offset of their wheels). You need to use a wire calculator on the amp to figure out how thick a wire you will need to supply it, you cant cheat that really, if its too thin it will burn or melt the insulation or transfer that heat into whatever its plugged into. Also the longer the run the thicker it needs to be. It may work you just need to check. E: if you actually cant use a thicker wire you can reduce the need by keeping that power rum as short as possible and marine grade wire may let you go up one gauge maybe. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 18:43
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Wrar posted:I need to make a clutch line to actuate a hydraulic slave TR3650 from a Ford Mustang GT. What connector do I need to hook up the line to the slave? All the Japanese stuff is screw connectors, idk what this clip in poo poo is supposed to look like. Please help. Just copy these kits. https://lmr.com/item/MCL-139253/mus...BSABEgKZzvD_BwE
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Sep 3, 2017 19:58
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Ethics_Gradient posted:After a month of stalking Gumtree, I gave up on finding any wheels or seconhand tyres that would fit my Starlet without messing up the speedo... horray, regional Australia (and sellers who don't know/can't be arsed to figure out the offset of their wheels).
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Sep 3, 2017 20:05
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DogonCrook posted:Just copy these kits. I have one of the ends already, I need the in-between piece to mate them. 
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Sep 4, 2017 01:00
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The 2008 Prius I bought had a K&N air filter and I bought a spray kit for $12 to clean and "recharge" it instead of a new FRAM filter for $9. The spray will last 4-5 replacement cycles, but you're telling me I made a mistake? 
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Sep 4, 2017 01:22
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You can almost certainly do better than that Fram, too. Shop around, buy a couple so you don't find yourself stuck paying high prices because you want to get it done tomorrow.
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Sep 4, 2017 01:33
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Hello all. Somehow I've found myself in the middle east which some of you might know as "The Land Where You Can Find Left-Hand-Drive Y60 Nissan Patrols That Are Legal To Be Imported To The US." Suffice it to say I've found a beautiful specimen in Dubai and I'm getting ready to buy it. I've had it professionally inspected by a third party already and a few things need attention: Front axle seals, underbody rust in the rear, bumper misalignment, and a new clutch. Other than that stuff, does anyone know a good deal about these cars and what I could do to one to both preserve it mechanically and improve upon it? Tips for rust mitigation in an early 90s Nissan?
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Sep 4, 2017 10:30
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0toShifty posted:Here's my cluster. I've had five of these mk2 sciroccos, and they all have had LEDs in the cluster. Also note the 80s style upshift indicator! Yeah my golf has an almost identical cluster, the center stuff is definitely all LED, the back-lights are all incandescent though (and super annoying to change as they are mounted onto a flexible circuit board).  By the way, would anyone know where I could find an Idle stabilization valve for this car? It's a 1989 USA built vehicle with A/C and has some rare parts as a result, here's a picture of it. 
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Sep 4, 2017 |
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Sep 4, 2017 15:30
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http://www.carparts.com/details/Vol...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Sep 4, 2017 15:32
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Thanks but that one is not compatible with my car, this one is much narrower, longer, and uses a solenoid that defaults to closed. That one won't fit in the mount and is motor driven and defaults to open. Tried it once and it idled at 3k.
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Sep 4, 2017 15:34
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Got a P/N?
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Sep 4, 2017 15:36
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035 133 455F It was in the picture so I didn't post it sorry.
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Sep 4, 2017 15:40
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Lol infinite dollars: http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-035-133-4...6.c100408.m2460
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Sep 4, 2017 15:53
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Yeah that's the problem I'm having, that one's damaged and still $200. This car has been interesting getting parts for, it was made within the last 2 weeks of the factory shutting down and has some random parts off other VWs as a result. Like the coolant temp sensor/mount crosses to an '88 diesel and the brake booster check valve I've never seen another of. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Sep 4, 2017 |
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Sep 4, 2017 15:56
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Reacon posted:Hello all. Somehow I've found myself in the middle east which some of you might know as "The Land Where You Can Find Left-Hand-Drive Y60 Nissan Patrols That Are Legal To Be Imported To The US." It's my understanding that desert climates have a high soil acidity. It doesn't mean anything on its own, but apparently after you take a vehicle full of acidic dust and put it into a more moist environment you will get a lot of rust. Clean it really thoroughly after you import it and get a really thorough rust protection applied.
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Sep 4, 2017 16:25
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So I've got this Stock it's 13.1"/12.2" with 4 fixed/1 sliding. This is pretty good but going up to 14.0"/13.6" with a 6/4 piston fixed setup would surely be even more gooder, right? RR Racing sells a Wilwood Aero6 and Wilwood Forged Narrow Superlite 4 setup for way less money than the average BBK. Then I wouldn't have to deal with the abject humiliation of living with smaller brakes than came on the F-sport model/currently exist on a loving Taurus/whatever. Here's the thing. I don't track my car, owing to the lack of a local track (not that it'd even be that great, seeing as it's over two tons). And I don't even hoon it very hard because, well, public streets and all. So while bigger brakes would be undoubtedly  without (hopefully) veering too far over the line into  , especially if I avoided red calipers, I'm not sure there's actually much of a point. Doubly so because the Wilwoods seem to be pretty track-focused, what with their lack of piston dust boots and all.Would I gain any benefit whatsoever to this upgrade, or would I just be throwing money into a fire without achieving my dreams of speed and class? Thanks.
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Sep 4, 2017 16:45
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Have you ever stood on the brakes as hard as you can and not been able to engage ABS? Have you ever gotten them so hot that they are no longer effective? Any modern vehicle has perfectly good brakes for street driving in any condition. You'd be throwing money away, most likely.
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Sep 4, 2017 16:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you ever stood on the brakes as hard as you can and not been able to engage ABS? Have you ever gotten them so hot that they are no longer effective? Honestly, no - I'm not sure I've ever even braked at 100% yet, and I've driven the thing over 20,000 miles. I guess I could take it out to a country road and stand on the brakes going 100 and see what happens. Certainly I've never managed to overheat the brakes; there are some fairly long grades in my area, but it's a shiftable automatic so I typically just engine brake and rarely have to touch the brakes at all.
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Sep 4, 2017 17:12
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Utter waste of money. Your brakes already outperform YOU.
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Sep 4, 2017 17:41
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David Corbett posted:So I've got this If you do this, you'll be limiting your options when it comes to brake maintenance. Normal shops and the dealer won't touch it. If you DIY your brakes then you're fine, but if you ever need to take it to a shop your only options will be performance shops, and they're gonna be much more expensive. In some situations - I'm not quite sure about the how the GS is setup - you might loose the functionality of the parking brake. Plus your're going to be modifying things that the engineers who designed the integral ABS pump/master cylinder assembly didn't intend. It might mess up system balance, stability control might act differently than intended, providing MUCH stronger corrections and causing a spin-out. Also - those Toyota/Lexus master cylinders cost a LOT of money if something goes wrong! (like 4-5k). Those brakes are already HUGE anyway!
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Sep 4, 2017 18:11
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Breakfast Feud posted:It's my understanding that desert climates have a high soil acidity. It doesn't mean anything on its own, but apparently after you take a vehicle full of acidic dust and put it into a more moist environment you will get a lot of rust. Clean it really thoroughly after you import it and get a really thorough rust protection applied. I'll remember that for certain! Everything on the Y60 is pretty bulletproof except Nissans rust HARDCORE. Honestly can not believe this one doesn't have any body rust until I get it and fully inspect it myself. If it doesn't, it'll be a one in a million though. So thanks!
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Sep 4, 2017 18:15
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David Corbett posted:Honestly, no - I'm not sure I've ever even braked at 100% yet, and I've driven the thing over 20,000 miles. I guess I could take it out to a country road and stand on the brakes going 100 and see what happens. Certainly I've never managed to overheat the brakes; there are some fairly long grades in my area, but it's a shiftable automatic so I typically just engine brake and rarely have to touch the brakes at all. Godholio posted:Utter waste of money. Your brakes already outperform YOU. Yep, this. Engine braking down hills is the smart choice there. You'd really only ever cook the brakes on a car like that at a race track, and even then only if you're actually driving the car near the limits.
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Sep 4, 2017 18:32
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Custom rotors are cheap if you want it to look good or have corrosion issues. Thats as far as id ever go on a car that isnt tracked or have oversized rims throwing off your unsprung weight. When i say cheap though its like 300-500 instead of 1500 and it still not gonna give you a noticeable benefit it would just be for looks. That and cleaning up and maybe painting the stock calipers can look real good.
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Sep 4, 2017 18:50
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Fair enough, then. The money stays in the wallet. It's about time to replace my pads and rotors anyway - I guess I could always consider more aggressive pads instead? Or, honestly, given the way I drive, just go with stock and move on.DogonCrook posted:Custom rotors are cheap if you want it to look good or have corrosion issues. Thats as far as id ever go on a car that isnt tracked or have oversized rims throwing off your unsprung weight. When i say cheap though its like 300-500 instead of 1500 and it still not gonna give you a noticeable benefit it would just be for looks. That and cleaning up and maybe painting the stock calipers can look real good. I had heard that cross-drilled rotors were counterproductive (reduction in thermal mass, creation of stress concentration) now that we don't tend to use asbestos in pads, and that slotted rotors were of fairly marginal benefit, at best - though I honestly do prefer the look of slotted to cross-drilled, at least. Centric doesn't make 125-series (higher-carbon G4000 vs. G3000) rotors for my application, so it's looking like I might as well just see if my rotors need to be and can be machined or, barring that, replace them with the stock parts, too. Are there any aftermarket rotor providers that've been generally recognized for making a superior product, or at the end of the day is a hunk of iron just a hunk of iron? Unfortunately it's hard to find parts up here in Canada, because the GS350 was a pretty niche model to begin with and even more so up here. David Corbett fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Sep 4, 2017 |
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Sep 4, 2017 19:02
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You could probably mix and match an off the shelf big disc with a suitable bell, and an adaptor to space out your caliper, that's about the cheapest way to get a large disc conversion, but as others have said, it's really just expense for the sake of it if you're not making use of your current braking capacity. Clean and paint what you have, and see if you can get discs with plating on them so that the areas away from the friction surface don't go manky, and it'll look a lot better. Here's a before/after comparison of some I just did:  If you're not cooking your current pads, "better" ones might just be annoying. Some performance pads can be hard to live with in terms of cold performance and noise.
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Sep 4, 2017 19:04
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David Corbett posted:...just go with stock and move on. This is the correct choice in something like 99% of situations.
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Sep 4, 2017 19:04
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