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I bought a balancing machine used (already have a mounting machine) for 250 bucks a few weeks ago specifically so that I have to rely on fewer shops. I've done my own glass and will continue to do so whenever it's not covered free by my insurance (which is rare.) AC work too. At this point alignments, inspection, auto trans rebuilds, and steering box rebuilds are the only things I can't/won't tackle myself. Do need to get a lift soon though... Because taking the Grand Wagoneer off it's frame without one is not going to be easy.
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Aug 31, 2017 22:35
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:The tune I ended up going with must have some excellent air/fuel maps because I don't soot out the tail pipe at all, while noticing a significant increase in performance (especially while towing). My average fuel consumption is closer to 18-19mpg now. Whatever you need to tell yourself to justify it. If there was truly "no soot" then the OEM would have done it that way and not had to use that system in the first place.  End derail. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Aug 31, 2017 |
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Aug 31, 2017 23:11
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Yeah an auto trans might as well be magic i have no loving idea whats going on in there and i really dont care to learn. The guy i go to has a working one cut open so you can see how it all works and everytime i see it i feel a lot better about plopping down the money.
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Aug 31, 2017 23:59
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violentlycitrus posted:Yeah, thanks for the info. Im so torn about rolling coal, because some terrible, primitive part of me thinks it is dope as gently caress, but it is so incredibly obnoxious. I much prefer the youtube diesel with train air horn videos. The amusing thing about rolling coal is the idiots dont realise how much HP they're blowing out the exhaust. Diesel smoke is nothing more than fuel thats not done its job cos your not feeding it enough boost. Some Diesels are just insanity mode with how much extra performance the OEM left on the table- The motor thats in my cruiser, the 4.2L straight six diesel left the factory making 150kw at the flywheel and 430nm of torque. There are guys on 100% stock internals pushing 300kw+ at the wheels without any reliability issues- all they've upgraded is the injectors to flow 70% more, a massive turbo, big intercooler and a piggyback ECU chip! They're also nuking 1200nm rated clutches too.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:00
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Larrymer posted:Whatever you need to tell yourself to justify it. If there was truly "no soot" then the OEM would have done it that way and not had to use that system in the first place. Saying end detail is a really loving convenient way to try to get a last word in. There's a ton of empirical data to back up what I'm arguing, it's clearly not in line with your personal opinion, so whatever.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:27
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Ferremit posted:The amusing thing about rolling coal is the idiots dont realise how much HP they're blowing out the exhaust. Diesel smoke is nothing more than fuel thats not done its job cos your not feeding it enough boost. Absolutely. This sooty trucks are really slow and usually have a very short half-life on their engines. The tractor pull ones are wild because they're at the very limit of boost and still over-fueling!
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Sep 1, 2017 00:29
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Ferremit posted:The amusing thing about rolling coal is the idiots dont realise how much HP they're blowing out the exhaust. Diesel smoke is nothing more than fuel thats not done its job cos your not feeding it enough boost. If its just a matter of boost why do propane injection kits make so much soot? Would it be different if you provided the equivalent o2 in boost? Or is that just because its not tuned usually? I dont really know much about deisel just curious.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:11
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DogonCrook posted:If its just a matter of boost why do propane injection kits make so much soot? Would it be different if you provided the equivalent o2 in boost? Or is that just because its not tuned usually? I dont really know much about deisel just curious. I'm not sure propane correlates to more soot. I feel there are two guys that run propane, diesel-drag guys and coal-rollers. Both are going to have a lot of soot, and in the fairly extensive research I've done, the best power adder is water-meth. The guys running that (maybe me in the not to distant future if I ever get off my rear end and run compounds) seem to burn even cleaner than before, while bringing the boost up substantially. edit: I kind of talked around your first question. People running propane are searching for all the power. So they're running the fuel map just past (or way past) the point of full combustion.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:22
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Yeah, you know your at the absolute bleeding edge of what you can get out of a motor when your pushing 120+ psi of boost through it AND NO2, AND your still overfueling. That and the occasional "Block splits in half and throws everything north of the crank through the bonnet vent" events.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:39
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Propane is still a hydrocarbon, so your still going to be running rich when you run LP injection without enough boost to support it. The only thing you get it it makes it slightly easier to burn the diesel.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:43
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Ferremit posted:Propane is still a hydrocarbon, so your still going to be running rich when you run LP injection without enough boost to support it. The only thing you get it it makes it slightly easier to burn the diesel.  That makes sense lol.
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Sep 1, 2017 04:14
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Today, I sheared the head off of the motherfucking ball joint pinch bolt. Extractors proved worthless, didn't have a source of heat, so I drilled the bastard out and used a bolt+nut instead. The ball joint absolutely didn't want to move, either, so it's going to be a Real Actual Mechanic's problem and in the mean time my inspection is expired. 
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Sep 3, 2017 17:48
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So last week, the chrome cladding fell off my passenger side rear tire. I lost the center cap, but luckily the cladding stayed mostly on thanks to the balancing weight and the tire stem. So I did a quick google search, and $65 had me a brand new center cap. I had some heavy duty 3M epoxy adhesive, so I cleaned up the cast aluminum wheel as best I could, put a bead of adhesive down, and put it back on.  I guess I'll see if it can last until I get my 22s for it here in a couple months. At least I don't look like a slob driving a car with one oddball wheel. 
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Sep 3, 2017 19:42
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I've never seen cladding like that.
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Sep 3, 2017 20:01
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does that mess with your wheel balance at all?
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Sep 3, 2017 20:15
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I've never seen cladding like that. I assume all Chrysler stock wheels are similar. It's a cast aluminum wheel with a plastic chrome cover glued to it with some sort of adhesive. The adhesive had become rock hard. I knocked it off with a putty knife, then hit it with a wire wheel. sneakyfrog posted:does that mess with your wheel balance at all? I'm sure it'll make a slight difference in theory, but won't change much practically. I'll find out this week .
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Sep 3, 2017 20:46
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A lot of GM vehicles have cladding like that as well
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Sep 3, 2017 23:48
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Yup, I know for sure the 7th gen Malibu has that on the lower trims. A lot of others have the hubcaps held on by captive plastic nuts. 
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Sep 4, 2017 03:48
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Yep, the factory wheels on my WJ had a similar setup.
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Sep 4, 2017 04:05
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Fifty Three posted:Today, I sheared the head off of the motherfucking ball joint pinch bolt. Lemme guess, Subaru? gently caress them in the ear for that lovely goddamn design. Here's the 5 minute rust belt balljoint removal trick though. Put the knuckle in a vise Hammer a flat blade screwdriver into the pinch slot. Not too hard or you'll break a chunk off the knuckle. Get a pipe wrench or large pair of channel locks on the bottom of the balljoint after ripping the boot off, crank on that fucker till you have it spinning in the socket. Use a hacksaw or angle grinder through the pinch slot to cut the outer balljoint shell, spin and repeat until you have it cut into eight to twelve slices Angle grind off enough of the balljoint housing sticking out of the knuckle that you can use a hammer to knock the stud out, then use a big chisel and hammer to start knocking slices of the shell out too. Eventually the rest will fall out in a heap and all that's left is getting the built up rust scraped out of the socket. Put the new balljoint in loaded with antiseize so it doesn't happen again. Oh, and torch the knuckle where the pinch bolt goes into it before trying to unscrew them, or they always do that. Run a tap through it before installing the new one, too, and again use antiseize. That whole design is Subaru engineering in a nutshell. Dumb dumb dumb. I hope whoever came up with it has to watch their dick rot off.
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Sep 4, 2017 12:25
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Rust removal the easy way. 
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Sep 4, 2017 19:40
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Replaced the front control arms, bushings, and balljoints on the Forester. Now the only original part left on the front end is the knuckles.
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Sep 4, 2017 21:47
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Fifty Three posted:Today, I sheared the head off of the motherfucking ball joint pinch bolt. Pinch bolts can suck a dick, this happened to me yesterday. Thankfully there was enough thread poking out to weld a nut on.   
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Sep 5, 2017 01:44
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kastein posted:Lemme guess, Subaru? gently caress them in the ear for that lovely goddamn design.
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Sep 5, 2017 20:45
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I just did lower control arms and balljoints on my Subaru and the arms with balljoints attached literally fell off my car once all the bolts were removed. 317k miles. I don't know how you guys up north put up with that rust poo poo.
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Sep 6, 2017 13:18
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The "chrome" on my front grill is starting to peel off. I found a cheap on on Amazon for under $45. It came, and it's sturdy, but I didn't like how the "mesh" was faux chrome also. I masked everything off and painted the mesh satin black. Tomorrow, I'll take my bumper off, replace the driving lenses and bulbs, and put the grill in.
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Sep 6, 2017 20:42
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Make sure you buy a "B" to put in that empty spot on the grill.
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Sep 6, 2017 23:24
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Rhyno posted:Make sure you buy a "B" to put in that empty spot on the grill. Yeah, no. I'm going to try to salvage my stock one. If not, my best friend is a body guy, I'll get a new one.
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Sep 7, 2017 00:44
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Terrible Robot posted:I don't know how you guys up north put up with that rust poo poo. Cursing, fire, blood, aneurysms, etc.
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Sep 7, 2017 01:02
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EvilBeard posted:The "chrome" on my front grill is starting to peel off. I found a cheap on on Amazon for under $45. It came, and it's sturdy, but I didn't like how the "mesh" was faux chrome also. I masked everything off and painted the mesh satin black. Tomorrow, I'll take my bumper off, replace the driving lenses and bulbs, and put the grill in. Yeah, that grille is way to much when it's all chrome. Much better.
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Sep 7, 2017 17:34
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Fifty Three posted:You're absolutely right, a 10-year-old Subaru in good cosmetic condition. I appreciate the write-up, I'll remember that next time I attempt a ball joint and have access to an actual work area. Also, my initial drill job was awful and they fixed it, but that's on me. I'm glad I had them do the rest of the job, despite the price tag.
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Sep 7, 2017 19:40
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Good move. After I snapped one of the bolts I took off the entire hub on the other side and dropped them both off at a machine shop. They were able to get the other one out without breaking it, but used a lot of heat.
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Sep 7, 2017 20:17
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If the subaru balljoint pinch bolt doesn't come out with minimal effort I go straight to heat. Put a shield over the CV boot so you don't melt it and heat the thing up. Since you actually have access to the back AND the middle of the bolt, you can heat it up and get some PB blaster in there. A few cycles of heating and cooling you can usually get them out without breaking. If you just go and hurf on a wrench you'll break them almost every time, there's really no excuse for that IMO. I know someone is going to cry about wheel bearing seals. Heat it quickly with oxy/ace or MAPP gas, get PB blaster or whatever in there, and cool it off. You'll be fine.
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Sep 7, 2017 21:49
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Made a couple more cuts in sheet metal... turns out I'll be taking the whole cab support out. Used a jack to support the cab. Getting ready for surgery tomorrow. It's either going to go well or kill the patient...
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Sep 8, 2017 04:30
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StormDrain posted:Made a couple more cuts in sheet metal... turns out I'll be taking the whole cab support out. Used a jack to support the cab. Getting ready for surgery tomorrow. It's either going to go well or kill the patient... Eh, it's made it this far. You might disfigure it a little, but I doubt you'll kill it. 
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Sep 8, 2017 22:38
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I finally got a Toyota dealer to agree to fix the leaking cam tower gaskets on my 5.7 Tundra. Its a 2 day $3000 job that I won't be paying for. 900 miles left on the extended warranty.
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Sep 9, 2017 02:13
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Propped the cab, cut out the cab support, and rebuilt it. It sucks having to use stock steel to make shapes that were bent. Getting better at welding but I really should just practice on things that aren't the final product. I gave it a pass with a grinder and only had a couple of spots to touch up. Also I think my arms are burnt because I'm not nearly as bright as the arc.
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Sep 9, 2017 04:53
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Installed a sub and amp in the evo. Well, a compact Sub/amp combo. There isn't much space in the boot, thanks to the washer fluid reservoir, bracing and battery. Also means you can't fold the seats down. Didn't want to sacrifice the space so I bought this. It seemed well regarded on amazon and the price was right. Battery is in the rear, so was easy to run power wire under the rear seat to beneath the drivers seat  Dash disassembled to install RCA and remote wires.  Seat out, sub and wiring in.  All back together, can barely tell it's there!  Fitment isn't bad though there is a metal bracket that holds the airbag and seatbelt harness which is preventing me moving the box forward another 1-2 inches, which would have it sitting between the ribs of the floor pan and totally out of sight. Going to revisit and see if I can remove the bracket and tuck the wires elsewhere. Sound wise it's decent. Its not as noticeable from the passenger seat but the driver seat gets a good thump with electronic tunes. It isn't as Omni directional as a full sized sub (you can hear it more on the right side of the seat than the left) but it sounds better than it has any right to for a sub of its size. It's not shaking the windows but it makes my preferred music (stoner/doom metal and electronic) sound much better. Just need to get rid of the retarded blue LED off the bass control knob remote. Why is that still a thing?
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Sep 10, 2017 13:36
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StormDrain posted:Propped the cab, cut out the cab support, and rebuilt it. It sucks having to use stock steel to make shapes that were bent. Getting better at welding but I really should just practice on things that aren't the final product. I gave it a pass with a grinder and only had a couple of spots to touch up. Also I think my arms are burnt because I'm not nearly as bright as the arc. That looks really good. And yeah, sounds like you are burnt! (I did the same a couple of weeks ago)
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Sep 10, 2017 13:55
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So pulled the bumper off, and replaced the grille and fog lights. I was impressed by what I got for the price. The fog lights were $35 on ebay and were actually direct replacement, and the $45 grille fit perfectly. My friend is a body guy, and he said it's one of the best he's had to deal with. He said tons of aftermarket body parts are trash and he's shocked companies can get away with selling them. I replaced the halogen bulbs in the fog lights with LED. The old ones were nasty.
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Sep 10, 2017 18:06
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