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I remember reading on here that there is generic books for each make/model that detail how to perform routine and some advanced maintenance. Can someone remind me of the series? I'd like to get one for my 2006 Ranger so I can start taking on the maintenance as it gets older. Is it the Haynes I am thinking of?Autoexec.bat posted:My 05 did that exact same thing when I first got it, it turned out to be a weak 12v battery causing the ECU to freak out. So I'd get that checked before looking at the big battery too much. For reference mine has 245k on it. Thanks. The part is $210 from Amazon and my mechanic says he can do it for $250 so I will probably just have him do it as part of inspection (which is due anyway). They can also confirm the alternator is charging cleanly, but when I do power on the motor the voltage jumps to 14.2V~ so I think it's just the aux battery. I've also read you should keep the aux system powered while swapping or else you get locked out. I'd rather they have to deal with that poo poo.
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Sep 6, 2017 22:54
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Spazz posted:I remember reading on here that there is generic books for each make/model that detail how to perform routine and some advanced maintenance. Can someone remind me of the series? I'd like to get one for my 2006 Ranger so I can start taking on the maintenance as it gets older. Is it the Haynes I am thinking of? What you really want is this from Ford. I have a stupid question: Is there a technical reason or difference in effectiveness based on where disc brake calipers are located? My wife's Focus has them outside of the axles (in front of the front, behind the rear), but my (older) Mustang has them inside the axles (forward of the rear, behind the front). Does where they're located have any effect on braking performance, or is it simply packaging? Krakkles fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Sep 6, 2017 |
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Sep 6, 2017 23:23
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Krakkles posted:I have a stupid question: Is there a technical reason or difference in effectiveness based on where disc brake calipers are located? A car with a longitudinal front engine like the Mustang commonly has the steering rack at the middle to front of the engine bay, so links to the front of the steering knuckle, the room for the brakes is at the back. With a transverse front engine, the steering rack normally goes at the back of the enginebay at the base of the firewall, so the steering is to the rear of the knuckle, and the only room for the brakes is at the front. On the rear, the Focus suspension links mean the easiest space for the caliper is at the back. Haven't looked on a Mustang, but if a leaf sprung live axle, I'm not sure it has anything that makes a difference, so it's either an open choice, or the rear shocks would be in the way at the back of the axle. Some RWD Fords here had the calipers mounted at the 12 o'clock position. Broadly speaking, it makes almost no difference to anything, it's effectively just a packaging concern.
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Sep 7, 2017 00:51
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Which manual is best for your car varies widely on manufacturer and age tbh. I have a Bentley for my VW and I consider it to be essential for keeping the thing running, there is so much good information/diagrams in that book that just isn't available online. On the Prius 12v swap I didn't have any problems with my key fobs and the car sat in a field for 9 months before I dragged it out but yeah probably best to be safe and have someone else do the swap. Besides changing the 12v is kinda annoying on a Prius so having someone else do it is probably worth it if you have the cash.
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Sep 7, 2017 01:53
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RubySprinkles posted:What is the difference, or where can I find the specs to find the difference, between an EGR 1814 and EGR 4332? So the first code was the egr and swapping it was the right call. The second code is more of a malfunction than a dead egr. It could also be the wires going to it having issues. If it was the wires causing it though, it more than likely would have thrown the 05 code the first time. It sounds like the new one is a dud egr, which definitely happens. I really dont know what standard procedures for shops are or what they charge so i cant really weigh in on that, but i would have basically done the same thing he did. Heres some info in the second code. The same site should have the 01 code explanation as well. https://www.obd-codes.com/p0405 DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Sep 7, 2017 |
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Sep 7, 2017 01:58
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DogonCrook posted:So the first code was the egr and swapping it was the right call. The second code is more of a malfunction than a dead egr. It could also be the wires going to it having issues. If it was the wires causing it though, it more than likely would have thrown the 05 code the first time. The "circuit low" part of the OBD code description made me think that it could just be the wiring going to it. Good to know that it may just be a dud egr - the shop does have a warranty on their work and parts, so don't foresee that being an issue. I feel like this is a stupid question, but could it be possible that the shop didn't have the wiring properly secured?
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Sep 7, 2017 03:11
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RubySprinkles posted:The "circuit low" part of the OBD code description made me think that it could just be the wiring going to it. Good to know that it may just be a dud egr - the shop does have a warranty on their work and parts, so don't foresee that being an issue. Thats totally possible. If it never pops up again he probably "fixed" it plugging it back in, or it had a temporary obstruction. If it does pop up again have them swap it and any shenanigans after that its the wires.
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Sep 7, 2017 03:32
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Is there a car recommendation thread or something? My wife got her license and we're looking to get a car, but we don't want to spend a ton on it since it'll be 100% secondary (we commute together in my car). Frankly I've never bought a used car in my life and it seems like there are way more variables to worry about.
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Sep 7, 2017 04:19
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:Is there a car recommendation thread or something? My wife got her license and we're looking to get a car, but we don't want to spend a ton on it since it'll be 100% secondary (we commute together in my car). Frankly I've never bought a used car in my life and it seems like there are way more variables to worry about. 99% of it is defining your own needs and desires. Once you can specify what you need, what you want, what you hate, and how much you can spend, the list narrows considerably. Then you test drive a few to find the best fit.
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Sep 7, 2017 04:37
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Krakkles posted:What you really want is this from Ford. Thanks for the recommendation. I picked this up.
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Sep 7, 2017 12:05
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RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:Is there a car recommendation thread or something? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Sep 7, 2017 14:43
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How hot does the rear of an ac compressor (sanden) get? I dont have much room with the fuel hardline to the carb now matter how i bend a stock length one. Like if insulate it, it will be touching the back of the compressor. Im mostly worried on a hot day its gonna vaporize the fuel when i kill it and it wont be able to start. Could i get away with insulating that section even if the insulation touches? I dont mind going to a flex im just not sure if its necessary or not.
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Sep 7, 2017 20:34
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My blinkers were acting up two days ago 'cause I accidentally set my drink on top of the hazard button (I think.) 95 Taurus 3l (blue, 145k) The relay was clicking double speed when the stem was in the neutral position. Hitting the brakes or jiggling with the turn signal switch helped. Then the relay was clicking so fast it sounded like BRRRP (again, in the neutral position with no signals activated.) This was all over the course of about 10 minutes driving home. After research, I learned that I might have a bad switch, but I also learned it might have to do with the hazard button. Investigating that, I think it was pushed down halfway for a while and that jacked it up. I pressed it a couple times and the signals worked again. Today, no turn signals at all. I think the brake lights, etc. work though. I'm assuming troubleshooting goes: fuse -> relay -> actual switch assembly, right? Do relays burn out if they're cycled too quickly? edit: Fuse is good, all other exterior lights work. edit2: I think I just got some drink condensation in the switches and they're gunked up, will take the thing apart this weekend and contact cleaner it. I jiggled it a lot and now the turn signals work with the hazard button pushed down (but not flashing all of them), lol. unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Sep 7, 2017 |
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Sep 7, 2017 22:12
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Have you unplugged the button?
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Sep 8, 2017 00:03
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Hey I'm doing the head gasket on a 1993 190e 2.6 and I've got most of it tore down this is where I'm stuck:quote:Next use a 17 mm Torx and unscrew the threaded ring inside the housing (yellow arrow). With the ring gone you can remove the tensioner. The tensioner MUST be disassembled before reinstalling. Use a long small socket to push the pressure pin along with its detent spring from the housing. It must be pressed out pointy end first. Clean all the parts thoroughly. Make sure when you are reinstalling it that you follow the torque specs carefully, the inner ring and outer screw are torqued to different values.  The socket for the tensioner ring is a $30 socket  This is about where I'm at I was too lazy to go out and snap some pictures, although I have the up timing cog off and the chain loose, so I don't get why I have to remove the tensioner if everything is already out of the way Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!
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Sep 8, 2017 00:45
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Turn around a bolt and stick in there use channel locks or two nuts to turn it etc. I doubt it will take much force.
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Sep 8, 2017 01:07
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That doesn't look like a Torx, they're a 6-lobe interface. See how that to put a flat across a given internal "face", it has to cross over two "points", like this? That says triple-square to me. If a suitable line crossed one point, it'd be a bi-hex 12pt. I say try a VW-style XZN triple-square bit. While a bolt head, allen key, or something else might not be a perfect fit, it'll likely be good enough for what you're trying to do, so give it a go.
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Sep 8, 2017 01:14
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DogonCrook posted:Turn around a bolt and stick in there use channel locks or two nuts to turn it etc. I doubt it will take much force. InitialDave posted:That doesn't look like a Torx, they're a 6-lobe interface. See how that to put a flat across a given internal "face", it has to cross over two "points", like this? Thanks guys I have so much going on, this helps tremendously. Just saved me a lot of head ache and a few bucks 
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Sep 8, 2017 04:13
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thylacine posted:My blinkers were acting up two days ago 'cause I accidentally set my drink on top of the hazard button (I think.) Depending on the car the actual relay for all of the turn signal functions is inside the switch module. So yeah if you got your nasty mountain dew or whatever in there you should clean it.
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Sep 8, 2017 07:29
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I'm trying to sell a car for the first time on Craigslist and keep on getting super lowballed on the offers that come in. It's a '98 Honda Civic in good running order with 202000 miles on it. I listed it at $1200 but keep on getting offers in the 700-800 range. Did I just misread the market for these or are people really thinking they can get it for under a grand?
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Sep 8, 2017 13:32
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Ragtime All The Time posted:I'm trying to sell a car for the first time on Craigslist and keep on getting super lowballed on the offers that come in.
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Sep 8, 2017 13:35
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It could even be the same person sending multiple lowballs in the hopes that you get tired of said lowball offers and just accept it. CL tactics 101.
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Sep 8, 2017 13:54
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Ragtime All The Time posted:I'm trying to sell a car for the first time on Craigslist and keep on getting super lowballed on the offers that come in. They're hoping you'll give them a counteroffer less than $1200 and they can work to a compromise around $1000. It's called bargaining. The assumption is that if you actually wanted 1200 for it you'd have listed it for $1500. If your $1200 is firm, no bargaining, your ad should say so. You can write them back and tell them $1200 take it or leave it.
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Sep 8, 2017 13:57
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Deteriorata posted:They're hoping you'll give them a counteroffer less than $1200 and they can work to a compromise around $1000. It's called bargaining. The assumption is that if you actually wanted 1200 for it you'd have listed it for $1500. Thanks, I've edited my cl post to make it clear $1200 is firm. If that doesn't seem to work over the next couple weeks I'll raise the price a bit and try to negotiate down to where I want. It seems like people want to feel like they're getting a better deal regardless of whether they are or not.
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Sep 8, 2017 15:26
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Ragtime All The Time posted:I'm trying to sell a car for the first time on Craigslist and keep on getting super lowballed on the offers that come in. Are you located in the northeast by any chance and is it a manual?
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Sep 8, 2017 16:11
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shy boy from chess club posted:Are you located in the northeast by any chance and is it a manual? I am in the northeast but it's an automatic. Me and the car have only been out here for the past 3 years so it isn't a complete rustball.
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Sep 8, 2017 16:53
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Is there an offroad/4x4 specific thread other than the pictures thread? I have some questions about budget offroading in a full-size pickup and I don't want to be asking in the wrong place. I don't plan on getting super buckwild with lift kits and whatnot because I can't afford it, but I am uncertain about whether it's supposed to be as bumpy as it feels, and what I can do within reason to alleviate some of it.
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Sep 8, 2017 16:59
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Hi all i hope this is the right place to get help I'm in the UK so can appreciate things may be different here. I have a 1.2 Renault Clio from 2006 and it's a manual drive About 3 weeks ago I had the ignition coil pack and exhaust replaced, about a week ago I started having the following issues - Problems starting the car up, ignition sounds like it's misfiring - When driving the car's RPM started to increase as if I was pressing on the accelerator - this occurred in and out of gear (sorry if i've explained that terribly) I had the amber check engine light on come up recently so I took the car to the garage today and they said that the warning light was for the coolant temperature sensor and because they didn't have any issues when they tested the car, couldn't see any issues for the misfiring. Now the issues don't happen all the time, it's fairly intermittent, but it's happened enough in the last fortnight that it's becoming an issue. I've got an appointment with the garage who made the repairs tomorrow but wanted to see if anyone here has a clue what might be going on
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Sep 8, 2017 18:18
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Looke posted:Hi all i hope this is the right place to get help It could be some electrical gremlin. But that unintended acceleration and hard start misfire could be a manifold gasket sucking air. When the car starts it heaves more so if it opens up a little when the engine shakes it will be hard to start, probably only effects the nearest cylinder or two. Or anyways thats a thing that could happen and cause this. You can get a water bottle and spray around the area if the car starts running different air is getting in somehow. Also when its cold start it up and you can push down on the manifold or grab it and shake the engine from the manifold, if it changes how it runs somewhere in there a gasket is failing. The ecu is kinda suspect either itself or its elctrical supply, and the injection system is too. Pulling the sparkplugs might tell you if this is an accross the board problem or just one or two cylinders having trouble and might give you more clues. E: to be clear one hand with downward pressure and a good shake will do the trick you wont need to get very rough to cause it if thats the ussue. Give the car a noogie basically lol DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Sep 8, 2017 |
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Sep 8, 2017 19:57
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Admiral Bosch posted:Is there an offroad/4x4 specific thread other than the pictures thread? I have some questions about budget offroading in a full-size pickup and I don't want to be asking in the wrong place. I don't plan on getting super buckwild with lift kits and whatnot because I can't afford it, but I am uncertain about whether it's supposed to be as bumpy as it feels, and what I can do within reason to alleviate some of it. Short answers: post in that thread it's fine and air your tires down.
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Sep 8, 2017 20:48
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DogonCrook posted:It could be some electrical gremlin. thanks, will give that a go in the morning, i had to pop out briefly 20 mins ago and the car stuttered a little bit starting it up but was fine on the way home. I've recorded the sounds incase that helps the engineer but I'm hoping it won't be an expensive fix
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Sep 8, 2017 21:01
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Luck is not with me. Mechanic said it's throwing POA80 which means dead or dying traction battery. Are there other tests we can do to confirm? Or are we hosed? 2005 Prius @ 160k~
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Sep 8, 2017 22:33
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Wife got clipped in a parking lot, driver nowhere to be found. Insurance deductible is $500, should I file a claim or find someone to do it cheaper? I don't think there's any dents, just a bad scratch. 2014 Ford Flex if that matters.
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Sep 8, 2017 23:12
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FCKGW posted:Wife got clipped in a parking lot, driver nowhere to be found. Insurance deductible is $500, should I file a claim or find someone to do it cheaper? I don't think there's any dents, just a bad scratch. 2014 Ford Flex if that matters. File a claim. That's probably $1500 worth of damage. Not kidding. Anything going to a body shop is minimum $1000.
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Sep 8, 2017 23:14
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It's a plastic piece so it won't rust. If you're really into having a nice car, yeah file a claim. If not just wait until you inevitably end up with more serious damage and then replace the bumper.
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Sep 9, 2017 00:47
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Looks exactly like the damage my mom just paid $900 to fix on a 10 year old 4runner.
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Sep 9, 2017 01:55
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Ive never bought one or know anyone who has but on ebay you can usually buy a prepainted bumper pretty cheap for a lot of cars. Ive noticed theres a lot of people that buy them and paint a bunch different factory colors. As for quality or whether it will actually match i have no idea but id look into it.
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Sep 9, 2017 02:08
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Ragtime All The Time posted:I am in the northeast but it's an automatic. Me and the car have only been out here for the past 3 years so it isn't a complete rustball. Ok, kinda want a manual.
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Sep 9, 2017 02:36
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DogonCrook posted:Ive never bought one or know anyone who has but on ebay you can usually buy a prepainted bumper pretty cheap for a lot of cars. Ive noticed theres a lot of people that buy them and paint a bunch different factory colors. As for quality or whether it will actually match i have no idea but id look into it. I've known a bunch of folks that ordered OEM bumpers with primer on them then just got a colormatched rattlecan. It looks OK. The plastic is some different formulation that's not exactly like factory original but it's better than no bumper/cracked bumper.
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Sep 9, 2017 02:45
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Spazz posted:Luck is not with me. Mechanic said it's throwing POA80 which means dead or dying traction battery. Are there other tests we can do to confirm? Or are we hosed? Probably hosed. But reman batteries from a quality company will have it running for another 150-200k. Junkyard battery would be up in the air. Both options are much cheaper than brand new. e: alternative you could rebuild the battery pack yourself, but if you want the car running in the next few weeks... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Sep 9, 2017 |
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Sep 9, 2017 07:14
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