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eddiewalker posted:I mean, even the primer isn't sticking great. I can scratch it back to the green PCB fairly easy. Maybe: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-Dip-14-5-oz-Black-Plasti-Dip-11603-6/202196703
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Sep 8, 2017 03:47
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PainterofCrap posted:Wipe 'em down with isopropyl alochol? Did it. Wore gloves. Going to try some 400 grit after work.
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Sep 8, 2017 03:55
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eddiewalker posted:I have some antennas made out of large printed circuit boards. They're covered, traces and all, in whatever green shiny coating that PCBs typically are. You know, we do have an electronics thread here in DIY. They might actually know best.
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Sep 8, 2017 04:50
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kid sinister posted:You know, we do have an electronics thread here in DIY. They might actually know best. they might also know how much room you have to sand before you're sanding copper
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Sep 8, 2017 08:05
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Why does my non-contact voltage tester go crazy anywhere near my chandelier?
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Sep 8, 2017 09:22
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Ohrmazd posted:Why does my non-contact voltage tester go crazy anywhere near my chandelier? they are not precision instruments they will detect a wide range of voltages at a wide range of distances potentially
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Sep 8, 2017 10:32
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SoundMonkey posted:they are not precision instruments I usually have to touch it right to the wire insulation though. Anyway -- I want to replace the chandelier with a regular lamp, but the lamp I have uses a rectangular box, while the chandelier used a circular one like a porch light. Any idea what those are called so I can look for a lamp that mounts to one? It's a popcorn ceiling so I don't really care to cut it up too much myself.
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Sep 9, 2017 03:40
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Ohrmazd posted:I usually have to touch it right to the wire insulation though. it really varies - it has a hard time finding some wires in my walls, but flips its poo poo within a foot of an LED bulb
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Sep 9, 2017 08:03
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Ohrmazd posted:I usually have to touch it right to the wire insulation though. Round boxes in ceilings are called ceiling fan boxes. They have the same anchor points as any other round box in residential construction. The lamp may fit onto a single-gang box, in which case you can get a single-gang-to-round adapter. Alternatively, you can get a round blank cover with a KO in the middle and just drill a couple of screw holes. Pictures in the electrical thread would help.
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Sep 9, 2017 17:36
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Hey DIYers, thanks to Hurricane Harvey flooding the hell out of our house, we've been doing a lot of demolition, ripping up carpets, and throwing out otherwise perfectly good furniture that just happened to absorb a little nasty flood waters. The only thing we're struggling with now is getting the remaining dirt and such off the concrete inside. We've swept, shop-vac'ed, and today we used a mild bleach solution and scrub brush to get it up (and wet vacuumed the resultant water). It just seems like that crap is never going to come up. We scrubbed and vacuumed, and there's still a bunch of residual crud that comes up if we redo the area. I'd like to rent a walk behind floor scrubber, but finding that in this city right now is almost out of the question. The only other thing I can think to do is just use a hose to loosen the dirt and shop-vac it up. I've got a pressure washer I could use too, but as the house is finally drying I'd hate to introduce more moisture in there. Any suggestions as to what we could try? We really don't want to hire it out, as we want to save the cash to do other stuff (like pay our flood insurance deductible).
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Sep 10, 2017 02:14
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Re PCBs: It's called "conformal coat" and unfortunately there are a few types which may have different implications for painting, but you have something to google now. Maybe the antenna manufacturer or board house can tell you what they used.
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Sep 10, 2017 06:05
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Not sure if this belongs here, but I have a lawnmower with a manual choke. It's stopped working, though. Last time I used it it started completely with the choke open. Then 5 minutes later, it dies. I try to start it up again, and it will run at full for about two seconds with the choke open, then die regardless of whether the choke is in or not. Any ideas for what I should be looking at? I added some gas, I haven't tried adding in any oil yet.
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Sep 10, 2017 06:30
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There is a small pan under the carburetor that sometimes fills up with crap. You could try removing it to clean it out and also spraying carb cleaner. Probably the first thing you should do is, in a clean area, remove the air filter and run the mower to see if it will start in closed, halfway, and full open. If it starts in full choke, you might have a problem with air intake. If it runs fine for 5 minutes, I doubt that it is the idle. But you could always try to adjust the idle. Modern small engines usually use nonstandard idle adjustment screw heads, luckily amazon has them if you cannot find them locally. The Gardenator fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Sep 10, 2017 |
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Sep 10, 2017 09:24
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This seems like a good place to ask about emergency generators... I'm thinking I should be prepared for multi day power outages since that's occasionally happened to me before, especially after a similar hurricane awhile back caused residual windstorms in my area which knocked out the power for a week. I was looking at the harbor freight predator generators, but I'm not sure whether I should be concerned about voltage spikes and other clean power issues. Do you guys have any recommendations?
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Sep 10, 2017 21:15
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OSU_Matthew posted:This seems like a good place to ask about emergency generators... I'm thinking I should be prepared for multi day power outages since that's occasionally happened to me before, especially after a similar hurricane awhile back caused residual windstorms in my area which knocked out the power for a week. What do you want to be able to power with it? Are you looking at also putting in a manual transfer switch, or just run what you want off extension cords?
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Sep 11, 2017 01:38
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n0tqu1tesane posted:What do you want to be able to power with it? Are you looking at also putting in a manual transfer switch, or just run what you want off extension cords? That probably would have been important for me to originally specify... I'm just looking to run a fridge/freezer, possibly my network rack with the UPS, charge phones, and a couple of litterboxes. At some point I'll probably install a transfer switch, but I was just planning on running a couple of extension cords for now. 1500-2000 watts would be plenty for what I'd want to do with it, so I was thinking a 3000 watt generator so it could run at 50% load overnight without me refilling the tank.
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Sep 11, 2017 14:50
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OSU_Matthew posted:a couple of litterboxes  What litterbox needs electricity???
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Sep 11, 2017 18:33
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kid sinister posted:
Self cleaning kind. 
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Sep 11, 2017 18:42
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Facebook Aunt posted:Self cleaning kind. i've always wanted a four hundred dollar sand toilet whose sole purpose is to frighten the cat so badly it spends the next year making GBS threads on the rug not that i know anyone who's had one of these or something
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Sep 11, 2017 22:21
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I've stripped my bathroom floor down to the subfloor, and plan to install glue-down vinyl plank flooring in there. We're going to put down plywood underlayment, and I have a couple questions: 1) Should I put a vapor barrier between the subfloor and the underlayment? Or is that not necessary? 2) Is there any reason other than cost to use a particular thickness of plywood? The subfloor sits 3/4 inch below the floor in the hallway, so I'd like to use 1/2 inch or even 3/4 inch plywood to lay the vinyl on. But most resources I see suggest using 1/4 inch. Is there any reason for that that's important?
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Sep 12, 2017 00:03
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SoundMonkey posted:i've always wanted a four hundred dollar sand toilet whose sole purpose is to frighten the cat so badly it spends the next year making GBS threads on the rug I knew a guy who had one. The cat was cool with it.
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Sep 12, 2017 02:42
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SoundMonkey posted:i've always wanted a four hundred dollar sand toilet whose sole purpose is to frighten the cat so badly it spends the next year making GBS threads on the rug It's true, I've spent more on cat toilets than replacing and remodeling both human toilets and bathrooms in my house  I will say that it's a huge quality of life improvement though, not having to scoop the litterbox. Only downside is that I can't manually scoop the cat genie in the event of a prolonged power outage since it flushes and rinses the litter, and since cats are dumb, they'd probably wind up going to the bathroom right next to it on the floor, instead of the nice clean litter robot two feet away
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Sep 12, 2017 03:12
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SoundMonkey posted:i've always wanted a four hundred dollar sand toilet whose sole purpose is to frighten the cat so badly it spends the next year making GBS threads on the rug I just got the latest model of that. My two cats have no issues with it and it significantly reduces litter box smell and makes cleaning easy. Would buy again.
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Sep 12, 2017 12:02
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Sub Par posted:I've stripped my bathroom floor down to the subfloor, and plan to install glue-down vinyl plank flooring in there. We're going to put down plywood underlayment, and I have a couple questions: The underlayment is typically a sacrificial layer; a thin one is easier to pry/scrape up than a thick one (or glued-down floor covering). If you''re gluing down a top cover, consider screwing down a 5/8" plywood layer to build up the floor height, then nail a 1/4" luan over that to glue to.
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Sep 12, 2017 13:50
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I just got the latest model of that. My two
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Sep 13, 2017 10:01
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Sub Par posted:I've stripped my bathroom floor down to the subfloor, and plan to install glue-down vinyl plank flooring in there. We're going to put down plywood underlayment, and I have a couple questions: If you have a concrete slab and you're putting down solid wood flooring, a vapor barrier somewhere in there is a must. It wouldn't be a bad idea even with a vinyl flooring. I think they're going with 1/4" as the minimum. If the fatter thickness evens things out better, go with it.
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Sep 13, 2017 17:52
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Cross posting from the HVAC thread, as it seems very quiet in there. Hoping the knowledgeable HVAC nerds are hanging out here more often.mr.belowaverage posted:I'm going to be installing a combi-boiler for radiant and DHW within the next couple of months. It's going to supply kitchen and 3 bathrooms radiant tile floors, with radiators in the living areas and bedrooms.
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Sep 15, 2017 02:58
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So I want to mount some poo poo to my cinderblock walls. Do I get some of these along with a masonry bit? I'm under the impression that I drill a hole through the block, then through the thing that I want to mount on the wall, then put the anchor through both of them and tighten. Sound right? Edit: How necessary is a Hammer drill for this? I've got this big old corded milwaukee MAGNUM HOLE SHOOTER, will that do the job? Tres Burritos fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Sep 17, 2017 |
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Sep 17, 2017 00:14
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You want to drill the hole into the wall and then hammer the anchor into the hole, then screw through the thing you're hanging into the anchor. Buy a couple of masonry bits - in my experience they strip out pretty quickly and are then worthless.
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Sep 17, 2017 00:29
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Tres Burritos posted:So I want to mount some poo poo to my cinderblock walls. Toggler anchors also work in concrete block, with pullout resistance approaching one ton.
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Sep 17, 2017 01:07
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Toggler anchors also work in concrete block, with pullout resistance approaching one ton. Insert obligatory ex-wife joke.
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Sep 17, 2017 01:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:Insert obligatory ex-wife joke. This would be so much more mundane if it weren't for your avatar looking so pleased with himself.
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Sep 17, 2017 02:04
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Tres Burritos posted:So I want to mount some poo poo to my cinderblock walls. Drill the holes, insert the sleeve anchors, remove the nuts, put on whatever you're hanging, tighten the nut until they are tight and the anchors grab. Your regular drill should be fine if you aren't doing too many holes.
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Sep 17, 2017 02:13
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I know this is a conversation I'll have to have the with the landlord, but I don't know what to say to him or what the fix would be. The old gas stove in my studio apartment has three vents for the pilot light. The heat coming out of those vents is over 120 degrees Fahrenheit. As a result, my room is consistently 20 degrees hotter than the temperature outside Having the windows and front door open offer little relief.
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Sep 17, 2017 06:58
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RandomPauI posted:I know this is a conversation I'll have to have the with the landlord, but I don't know what to say to him or what the fix would be. You are asking for a new stove with an electric lighter, not pilots. That is an expensive ask. (or an ac unit.) you can help your case by being willing to throw in money, have a model and price at hand, and see if there are rebates from your gas company.
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Sep 17, 2017 16:10
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H110Hawk posted:You are asking for a new stove with an electric lighter, not pilots. That is an expensive ask. (or an ac unit.) you can help your case by being willing to throw in money, have a model and price at hand, and see if there are rebates from your gas company. The electrically ignited stoves are not too hard to find between $100 to free on Craigslist, depending on where you live.
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Sep 17, 2017 19:45
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Zero VGS posted:The electrically ignited stoves are not too hard to find between $100 to free on Craigslist, depending on where you live. Correct, but as a landlord you have more to think about than cheapest on craigslist. It needs to match the decor (easier in budget apartments) and you are responsible for it breaking down or burning the place down. Personally I would prefer the cheapest brand new one over a similarly priced mystery oven. Edit: re: gas - around here the gas utility will happily hook up appliances for free for just that reason. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Sep 17, 2017 |
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Sep 17, 2017 19:58
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Also you want someone qualified to do the gas work unless you like dying.
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Sep 17, 2017 20:13
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H110Hawk posted:You are asking for a new stove with an electric lighter, not pilots. That is an expensive ask. (or an ac unit.) you can help your case by being willing to throw in money, have a model and price at hand, and see if there are rebates from your gas company. Might local residential/building code come into play here?
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Sep 17, 2017 20:40
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We had a lovely stove in our old apartment with the opposite problem, the pilots would go out all the time. Found a little adjuster screw to turn them up some, I'm assuming you could do the opposite. Or just shut the pilots off altogether and use a lighter when you want to use a burner.
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Sep 17, 2017 21:48
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