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Baronjutter posted:I am a very bad wood worker and it's taken me over 15 hours to get to this point, but I have a shelf and some slides hopefully installed right and a single drawer installed. When I test fit a shelf it was too wide and pushed on the tracks, so I cut all the drawers down by 1/8" and now they're almost too tight in the tracks, pulling them. Keep with it, I find smaller things tend to have tighter tolerances and sometimes more difficult, and it's always good to work just outside your comfort zone. For my shop cabinets I did 3/4" frame, 1/2" drawer sides (all kreg jointed) then I just glued and stapled 1/4" ply to the bottom. Once you put some solid wood drawer faces on you won't even be able to tell it's screwed.
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Sep 4, 2017 23:31
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I inherited a lathe which I am determined to put to use. Does anyone have any recommendations on a chisel/gouge set that won't break the bank? I'm mostly interested in doing small pieces at the moment, Christmas tree ornaments and things like that.
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Sep 5, 2017 02:15
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This is the set I see recommended the most for beginners. https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS
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Sep 5, 2017 03:01
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My personal take is that if your goal is to focus on wood turning, get a set as recommended above. If you goal is to make furniture with turned parts, such as chairs or tables with staked legs, then I'd recommend getting some carbide insert tools, mainly a rougher and a detailer.
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Sep 5, 2017 04:14
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I'm a few pages late but I've learned from old men who mostly carve wood with hand tools that depending on where you live, your luck and skills, it's really not unheard of to never pay for wood. Still just slowly teaching myself woodcarving when I feel like it and so far I've gotten: Lots of white birch, less cherry but it was dried so enough to wear my hands til they hurt, silver maple, american hornbeam (gently caress), aromatic cedar heartwood and lastly pine just for burning. Never had a town guy or a private tree service turn me down yet just from walking up to them while working and saying hey I carve wood, any chance I could get a log? Every time they just say sure how long? And I ask for a few feet and usually offer a trade or a few bucks which they turn down and keep working. At least around here half of it becomes wood chips and half of those chips never sell and end up in a dump or with a cardboard sign begging people to come fill up their trucks.
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Sep 5, 2017 04:23
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Now I just need to add false fronts and figure out if I'm going to stain or paint or what.
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Sep 5, 2017 06:11
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My first "real" project in my garage. A couple of convertible chair/step stools for my niece and nephew. My first actual project in the garage was a couple of Matthias Wandel's workbenches. The tops on mine suck though because they're just a bunch of 2x10s butted up against each other -- no joining and no planing because I don't have those things. They don't even have clean edges because I built them before my grandpa gave me his tablesaw. I need to fix them. Kruxy fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Sep 5, 2017 |
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Sep 5, 2017 19:09
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Baronjutter posted:Now I just need to add false fronts and figure out if I'm going to stain or paint or what. This owns. Did you follow plans or anything?
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Sep 6, 2017 01:03
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A decent deal on a Grizzly G0715P with a router attachment in the Philadelphia area. My Laguna just shipped or I'd be on this like poo poo on velcro.
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Sep 6, 2017 20:54
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Heads up to hand tool people in WA: https://www.lie-nielsen.com/hand-tool-events is coming to Seattle in October, planning on going to check it out.
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Sep 9, 2017 02:20
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Any suggestions for interesting cable management techniques? I've poked around on Google and it basically seems like attaching something to the underside of the desk and stuffing it with cables is the best idea. I'm building a desk very similar to this - 
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Sep 10, 2017 21:02
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For those of you not stalking my post history across the forums I am in the process of having a garage built. Said garage will need a workbench in it. I have minimal woodworking experience, no fancy joinery techniques but could perhaps learn some simple ones if needed. I am looking to build a bench for light wood working (think cutting/gluing/repairing simple things), minor car maintenance/repair, and tool storage (drawers). Looking to make something 8ft wide and 2-3ft deep. Can anyone recommend plans I can download either for free or $$? Any resources to look at? Tool wise for construction of this bench I have: drill, impact driver, circular saw, jigsaw, lovely chisels, hammer, miter box, saw horses, and can borrow my brother's mitre saw. Not opposed to buying some more tools but wouldn't want to spend crazy money on tools to build it either.
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Sep 10, 2017 23:48
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tangy yet delightful posted:Looking to make something 8ft wide and 2-3ft deep. Can anyone recommend plans I can download either for free or $$? Any resources to look at? http://woodgears.ca/workbench
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Sep 11, 2017 00:24
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Fwiw, a sheet of plywood on top of some big box store drawer units did me fine for years.
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Sep 11, 2017 00:51
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Seconding this one. Super easy to build with just a circular saw, a drill, a speed square and a chisel (if you want to get fancy with your half-laps)
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Sep 11, 2017 03:40
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This looks good and I like that I can add drawers afterwards.
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Sep 11, 2017 03:53
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what finish would you guys recommend for a beech desk top. preferably a more matte finish
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Sep 11, 2017 09:27
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huhu posted:Any suggestions for interesting cable management techniques? I've poked around on Google and it basically seems like attaching something to the underside of the desk and stuffing it with cables is the best idea.  http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/10200254/ Something like this, or go low tech and staple gun velcro ties to the bottom of the desk
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Sep 11, 2017 11:24
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huhu posted:Any suggestions for interesting cable management techniques? I've poked around on Google and it basically seems like attaching something to the underside of the desk and stuffing it with cables is the best idea. For my desk i mounted bolts to the inside/underside of the desk. There's about a 1/4-3/8" standoff (just the nut+washer holding the carriage bolts), then I mount a piece of pegboard to the bolts with some wing-nuts. All my devices (power strips, power blocks, hubs, etc.) are mounted to the pegboard with zip-ties, and the cables are all zip/twist-tied to the pegboard.
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Sep 11, 2017 15:09
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Hey all. I do a lot of woodworking, coffee and end tables, bed frames/headboards, shelves, etc. I'm currently making a custom cutting board. Lots of curves and such. Using different colored wood is not an option. How can I darken/stain some parts? Obviously I can't use regular wood stain like I would on a coffee table or I'm liable to kill someone. I've tried coffee and it's not dark enough. I need stuff that is natural, non-toxic, food-safe, etc. Red wine? Mixture of food coloring? Grape juice? I need a deep brown or black and an orange/red color.
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Sep 11, 2017 19:31
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Ferrule posted:Hey all. I do a lot of woodworking, coffee and end tables, bed frames/headboards, shelves, etc. There's a few types that have been tested - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EmtYa93KEU and he did a second video as well.
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Sep 11, 2017 22:02
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thanks! I did a little research before I posted and that didn't come up (only things I'd seen/done before). That Turmeric is a new one to me and is going into the 'ol toolkit.
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Sep 11, 2017 22:44
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Ferrule posted:Wood David Picciuto had these on his show last week. https://purecolorinc.com/color-palette It's all non-toxic, but I don't know if it's food safe. Their website doesn't say. But they have some great colors so it might be worth reaching out to them and finding out.
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Sep 12, 2017 00:34
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Cool. Thanks. Related - this thing has a lot of die cuts so there's some minor gaps. Anyone know of a good filler? I'd hate to drop the cash on resin but if that's the way to go so be it. I may be in over my head on this one...
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Sep 12, 2017 02:37
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Ferrule posted:Related - this thing has a lot of die cuts so there's some minor gaps. Anyone know of a good filler? Mix sawdust with wood glue until you get a paste, then fill the gaps with that.
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Sep 12, 2017 02:42
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Ferrule posted:Hey all. I do a lot of woodworking, coffee and end tables, bed frames/headboards, shelves, etc. Check out fresh walnut hulls. Walnut is toxic for bugs n animals n poo poo, but hell people http://www.livestrong.com/article/145740-black-walnut-hull-side-effects/
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Sep 12, 2017 03:20
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Been chopping mortises in ash for days now, jeez what a PITA. Making a frame for a blackboard for the kids playroom, thought a mortise and through-tenon joined frame looked cooler than boring mitered frames you usually see. Only got a bench chisel (10mm or 3/8") and I have been contemplating if mortise chisels are worth it. I have been told by one person that at sizes over 12mm (1/2") it doesn't matter much if you use a normal chisel, but under that the difference is striking. Claimed it was as big a step from a bench chisel -> mortise chisel as it was going from mortise chisel -> hollow chisel mortising machine.
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Sep 12, 2017 06:55
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I got a 12mm narex morticing chisel. It seemed ok, the extra heft and rigidity was nice, but I found it twisted almost as much, and actually did more damage when it did twist because it was so thick. It's possible I was tempted to take too much off at a time, and maybe going slower I could have prevented it twisting. I have noticed in Paul sellers videos that he backs off and takes a smaller slice if it starts to misbehave.
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Sep 12, 2017 14:28
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I think English mortise chisels like the Ray Isles chisels are good and worth it. I have a 1/4" and 3/8" chisel and like them very much. They don't get stuck in nearly as much as a bevel edge chisel, and levering out waste never leaves me fearing I might bend them.
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Sep 12, 2017 16:17
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Granite Octopus posted:I got a 12mm narex morticing chisel. It seemed ok, the extra heft and rigidity was nice, but I found it twisted almost as much, and actually did more damage when it did twist because it was so thick. Same here, after disliking the narex set I got a couple "Sorby Registered Mortise chisels", and I like those a lot more. I didn't notice any twisting while using them at all.
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Sep 12, 2017 16:53
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Hey thread. I'm getting some winter larch cladding on parts of my house. I know many people like the look of the silvering as it weathers but I don't. Is there an oil, coating, or other potion I can use to keep it looking like it will when it goes in?
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Sep 12, 2017 17:25
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Jaded Burnout posted:Hey thread. I'm getting some winter larch cladding on parts of my house. I know many people like the look of the silvering as it weathers but I don't. Is there an oil, coating, or other potion I can use to keep it looking like it will when it goes in? There are plenty, but afaik none that will last forever without maintenance. I would look at finishes made for marine/boats. They would probably hold up a bit longer.
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Sep 12, 2017 17:31
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So I assembled a dust collection system a few weeks ago, and it work(ed) great. The only problem is the basic 5gal Home Depot bucket is too flimsy and collapses under the vacuum. After a few days of light usage, all the flexing caused what you see below. Where should I get a heavier duty bucket? Preferably it would be a standard 5gal that my Dust Deputy/lid can snap onto without needing to remount on a new lid.
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Sep 12, 2017 17:43
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Mr Executive posted:So I assembled a dust collection system a few weeks ago, and it work(ed) great. The only problem is the basic 5gal Home Depot bucket is too flimsy and collapses under the vacuum. After a few days of light usage, all the flexing caused what you see below. Where should I get a heavier duty bucket? Preferably it would be a standard 5gal that my Dust Deputy/lid can snap onto without needing to remount on a new lid. Could you cut a piece of wood to fit inside it for some support? Thats wild.
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Sep 12, 2017 17:55
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Mr Executive posted:So I assembled a dust collection system a few weeks ago, and it work(ed) great. The only problem is the basic 5gal Home Depot bucket is too flimsy and collapses under the vacuum. After a few days of light usage, all the flexing caused what you see below. Where should I get a heavier duty bucket? Preferably it would be a standard 5gal that my Dust Deputy/lid can snap onto without needing to remount on a new lid. Use two buckets, one inside the other. It will solve this problem.
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Sep 12, 2017 18:02
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mds2 posted:Use two buckets, one inside the other. It will solve this problem. Ah, that's a good idea. Thanks
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Sep 12, 2017 18:05
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Wouldn't the inner bucket be sucked away from the outer bucket? Since its pulling a vacuum instead of being an expansive (right word?) force.
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Sep 12, 2017 18:33
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In my experience, a bucket inside another bucket is one of humanity's most powerful sources of vacuum.
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Sep 12, 2017 18:41
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GEMorris posted:I think English mortise chisels like the Ray Isles chisels are good and worth it. I have a 1/4" and 3/8" chisel and like them very much. They don't get stuck in nearly as much as a bevel edge chisel, and levering out waste never leaves me fearing I might bend them. I just got some Narex mortise chisels and I owe my girlfriend a book case. I'll update with my findings.
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Sep 12, 2017 18:55
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NPR Journalizard posted:There are plenty, but afaik none that will last forever without maintenance. I would look at finishes made for marine/boats. They would probably hold up a bit longer. Maintenance is fine, I just don't want to coat it in something that'll change the appearance (or allow the appearance to change).
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Sep 12, 2017 19:05
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