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Who needs Octoprint when we've got this guy? 
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Sep 14, 2017 17:27
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eddiewalker posted:Who needs Octoprint when we've got this guy? 1) buy $20 android watch 2) design and build circuit board to control steppers, extruder, fans 3) reimplement marlin for android arm processor 4) ??? 5) profit!!
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Sep 14, 2017 19:00
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When sourcing the electronics for a machine that has to run days at a time flawlessly, I always use the cheapest most garbage crap I can find on aliexpress.
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Sep 14, 2017 19:21
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IT WORKED FINE IN MY BASEMENT LAST NIGHT 
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Sep 14, 2017 19:32
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BMan posted:When sourcing the electronics for a machine that has to run days at a time flawlessly, I always use the cheapest most garbage crap I can find on aliexpress. But my printer IS the cheapest most garbage crap i could find on ali express, im sure this man android watch powered printer will be amazing. edit: wait no, pointless, it will be pointless
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Sep 14, 2017 19:47
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Is it possible for a printer to ignore bed leveling, or to misinterpret it? Ever since I installed a new extruder mount, and updated Marlin, I haven't been able to get a good first layer. I have a BLTouch, and am using bilinear auto leveling. When I print a single-layer bed-sized diagnostic print, the left side of the print shows the nozzle too close, and the right side the nozzle too far. Last night, I lucked out in tweaking my Z offset so that I seem to have it perfectly set, so that on the right side, the plastic is just adhearing to the bed, causing the layer to not lay flat. On the left side, the lines are too thick, as if the nozzle is just a bit too close. I've replaced the glass bed, and the same thing happens. I've tweaked the BLTouch's sensor, and I think I have it where it needs to be. Besides, if it was a hardware fault of the sensor, why would it always level it like this? I'd think it wouldn't work at all, or the leveling would be inconsistent. I wonder how it might be possible if it is just ignoring the bed leveling, and the BLTouch is being used as a simple endstop? It does go through the auto level before each print. I scanned the bed, and if I am reading it correctly, I think the left side is a slightly higher than the right, around .6mm if I recall correctly. Which looks like what might be happening on the prints themselves. My other idea is if maybe there is a configuration issue in my firmware that causes the bed leveling to be misinterpreted. My thought is the orientation of the print bed. When I look at the printer, my left is considered the printer's right. Perhaps the bed leveling reads left as left, but then when printing, left is right. In Marlin you can choose to flip the axises. Perhaps it's flipped correctly in one spot, but not in another?
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Sep 14, 2017 21:13
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I don't really know anything about that, but maybe you could test it more by putting shims under certain probe points and seeing what it does?
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Sep 14, 2017 21:35
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BMan posted:I don't really know anything about that, but maybe you could test it more by putting shims under certain probe points and seeing what it does? gently caress, why didn't I think of that? I took a piece of junk mail, and had it under the three rightmost points of the bed level probe. When it printed, moving from right to left caused the printer to move down on the Z axis, and at a greater distance than before. Now, the right most of the print didn't have a prayer, and the left most just barely adhered at all. I then had the junk mail under the three leftmost points of the probe. When it printed, moving from right to left caused the printer to move up. Now, nothing was adhering. Before, where the nozzle was nearly touching the bed on the leftmost side, there was now a good amount of distance. This proves that it is indeed leveling the bed through the bilinear probing. The issue is why it isn't leveling correctly. Maybe my XY offsets for the probe are wrong? A few pages back we all agreed that I had the left/right up/down correct, and I don't think the measurements themselves are wrong.
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Sep 14, 2017 23:14
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Just as a test I tried to print out that owl the other goon did on the coin at 15mm high. 0.4 nozzle, 0.1mm layer height. Kea fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 15, 2017 |
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Sep 15, 2017 01:13
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Figured it out, when I added the second extruder forgot to set the nozzle to the correct size, flow rate was all messed up. Listerine fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Sep 15, 2017 |
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Sep 15, 2017 01:50
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I fixed my bed leveling issue. My reprap style printer has two lead screws, driven by two motors. I am now getting level prints after manually moving the right side screw slightly down. I thought I had it calibrated correctly; prior, the distances on both sides were even. But, I'm not one to argue with results.
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Sep 15, 2017 02:28
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Oh yeah, about that. You can also even the Z axes by moving the Z up until they both hit the top and start skipping. At least, that's how it is on the Prusa.
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Sep 15, 2017 03:44
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BMan posted:Oh yeah, about that. You can also even the Z axes by moving the Z up until they both hit the top and start skipping. At least, that's how it is on the Prusa. huh, I might give that a shot. Trip report : That did not work. the left hand screw is clearly lower than the right hand screw. Edit the second : manually turned the screw so that they were both at the same level. Gonna try a bed level now. NPR Journalizard fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Sep 15, 2017 |
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Sep 15, 2017 04:02
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BMan posted:Oh yeah, about that. You can also even the Z axes by moving the Z up until they both hit the top and start skipping. At least, that's how it is on the Prusa. The instructions for my i3 clone say to MANUALLY wind both Z servos up to the top (with servos off)till they hit the stops and then try rehoming it. I fitted Z braces to my printer and managed to mess my Z servos up while doing it such that I could visually tell that they were not horizontal. The above worked well
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Sep 15, 2017 06:59
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Assuming that a given printer's frame is square, you can level the X carriage by just measuring each end's distance from the top of the frame, or whatever's a good reference point on your printer. I keep a metal ruler by mine just for that purpose. It can be really easy to knock one side out of alignment if you're fiddling with it when the steppers are off.
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Sep 15, 2017 12:18
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Acid Reflux posted:Assuming that a given printer's frame is square, you can level the X carriage by just measuring each end's distance from the top of the frame, or whatever's a good reference point on your printer. I keep a metal ruler by mine just for that purpose. It can be really easy to knock one side out of alignment if you're fiddling with it when the steppers are off. I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBRQ Place it on the top frame, zero it out, attach it to the X-carriage and adjust one of the Z-axis screws until it reads Zero. Then level the bed as usual. That was until I said "gently caress this" and put a locking nuts on the bed leveling screws and stopped worrying about bed leveling any more.
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Sep 15, 2017 16:47
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BMan posted:Oh yeah, about that. You can also even the Z axes by moving the Z up until they both hit the top and start skipping. At least, that's how it is on the Prusa. There is no stop at the top of my lead screws. I'm now dealing with bulging layers. Just above my first couple layers, and then a few mm after as well.
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Sep 15, 2017 23:32
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Anybody have experience using Simplify3D and dual extruders? I'm trying to get the second tool offset to work and it's not updating on my TAZ 5 when I go to print. I've been setting the offset in the G-code tab for the process, but it keeps printing in the same (incorrect) place.
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Sep 16, 2017 00:54
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Listerine posted:Anybody have experience using Simplify3D and dual extruders? I'm trying to get the second tool offset to work and it's not updating on my TAZ 5 when I go to print. I've been setting the offset in the G-code tab for the process, but it keeps printing in the same (incorrect) place. You define that offset in the firmware, not the slicer.
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Sep 16, 2017 11:07
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biracial bear for uncut posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBRQ
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Sep 16, 2017 13:57
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You define that offset in the firmware, not the slicer. It looks like you can set the offset for individual nozzles in Simplify3D. Perhaps the issue is it is set in both places?
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Sep 16, 2017 20:19
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Revol posted:It looks like you can set the offset for individual nozzles in Simplify3D. Perhaps the issue is it is set in both places? Yes, you can set the offsets for individual nozzles. But it doesn't apparently apply them unless you check another box in another window, which I was messing. With that checked, it updates appropriately so the toolheads print where they should. I used the Lulzbot version of Cura to update the firmware when I switched to the dual extruder, and I remember going through the process to measure the offset, and it worked fine in Cura, but apparently it was doing the same thing as Simplify3D- it never changed the settings in the firmware, I think both softwares are just adding the offsets to all the G-code commands written by the slicer?
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Sep 16, 2017 23:56
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I've been toying with an Anet A2, and beyond a couple of poor design decisions on their part (like using a coupler that flexes longitudinally to drag the Z axis around) I've been fairly happy with the results - but the default nylon rollers on 2020 slots is a bit prone vibration on the Y-axis. Has anyone here used these linear slides (or something similar) to replace the nylon rollers in their bargin-basement kit printers? If so, are they any good? Dia de Pikachutos fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Sep 17, 2017 |
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Sep 17, 2017 04:05
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I have a $230 (minus shipping) kossel mini delta printer with those fake hiwin linear guides and my printer has been running perfectly mechanically. There is noticeably drag on one particular spot on one of the rails (out of the 3), but they otherwise rolled smoothly and when installed didn't seem to have any noticeable impact on performance. The HiWin clones are super common though, and there are multiple factories making them so quality will vary. Probably a good idea to check for reputable/well reviewed sellers - Aliexpress is good for this because they have per listing ratings/reviews.
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Sep 17, 2017 05:27
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CapnBry posted:Smartphones work very well for this as well. On Android I use a free app called Bubble Level, Spirit Level that can measure relative inclination levels and is probably just as accurate as a dedicated device. The compass on iPhones is a spirit level as well, no need for those garbage ad vehicle leveling apps.
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Sep 17, 2017 05:35
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Printed a whole new X axis for my cheapo i3 clone and also replaced the bearings and rods (more out if convenience for the rods, because assembly was a bitch). So far, all the printed parts fit better than the originals, and the new bearings are smoother (bottom single bearing didn't really move that well). This week I'm hoping to get some good test prints. I just need to figure out why I'm getting extruder clicking when there's no obvious clog. It's a stainless E3D upgrade, so it should be clear. I'm not getting curling or anything that indicates a clog. So far I'm getting clicking at 15C above the recommended temp. I know you need to run a bit hotter with stainless, but I didn't think it would be THAT bad. I'm going to try seasoning it with some veg oil, which I've seen recommended as well.
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Sep 18, 2017 00:41
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Or before putting vegetable oil into your new hot end try reducing the print speed so you're extruding slower and see what changes. Clicking from the extruder motor typically means things aren't melting fast enough for how hard you're trying to push. This could be due to bad heat transfer or something else.
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Sep 18, 2017 01:07
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AlexDeGruven posted:Printed a whole new X axis for my cheapo i3 clone and also replaced the bearings and rods (more out if convenience for the rods, because assembly was a bitch). So far, all the printed parts fit better than the originals, and the new bearings are smoother (bottom single bearing didn't really move that well). Sure it isn't too close to the bed?
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Sep 18, 2017 01:30
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My model is fairly irregular, and the first couple millimeters worth of layers includes a lot of supports, and less printing of the actual model. I'm using dual extruders, one for supports and the other for the model, and I'm running into issues with getting the ABS for the model to extrude after switching from the HIPS printing nozzle. I'm using both a primer pillar and an ooze shield. What should I mess with next to improve how quickly the ABS starts leaving the nozzle? Increase the temperature?
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Sep 18, 2017 01:46
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Simplify3D has a pre-start prime amount you can set. Don't know about other slicers.
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Sep 18, 2017 01:55
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ickna posted:Alright, I think I finally have Octoprint sorted out [...] and the repurposed Pi Zero I originally boughfor Octoprint. [...] I'm also live streaming I have a Logitech z270 cam I would use, but given the below, performance may suck. mewse posted:Regarding running octopi on pi zero, it will run but don't use the camera and if it's a zero w you probably don't want to use the included wifi chip because it tears thru cpu cycles. kuskus fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Sep 18, 2017 |
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Sep 18, 2017 08:24
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Kea posted:Sure it isn't too close to the bed? Is 170mm too close? I haven't homed the new x carriage yet.
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Sep 18, 2017 10:59
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kuskus posted:Performance will be more stable on the zero via USB wifi or dongle ethernet? Mine'll be right near a switch. I'm fine with just network printing. As far as I know, yes.
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Sep 18, 2017 13:21
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AlexDeGruven posted:Is 170mm too close? This is the answer to the original question you asked about this. Mister Sinewave posted:Clicking from the extruder motor typically means things aren't melting fast enough for how hard you're trying to push. Either slow the print speed down or increase the hotend temperature.
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Sep 18, 2017 16:19
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Simplify3D has a pre-start prime amount you can set. Don't know about other slicers. Is that the "Extra Restart Distance" option on the Extruder tab of the process settings?
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Sep 18, 2017 18:30
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biracial bear for uncut posted:
So that's where my issue stems. I had successful prints with the same hot end, but brass nozzle. I knew stainless required a bit more heat, but I wasn't expecting greater than 15C difference. I'm running a pretty high temp PLA to begin with, but I don't know that the resins will tolerate much more than 250C.
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Sep 18, 2017 20:17
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Listerine posted:Is that the "Extra Restart Distance" option on the Extruder tab of the process settings? Yep. Sorry, was on mobile and forgot what it was called.
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Sep 18, 2017 21:04
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Yep. Sorry, was on mobile and forgot what it was called. No problem, I appreciate all the help.
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Sep 18, 2017 21:06
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kuskus posted:I have that Maker Select V2 and at this moment Microcenter stores have $5 Zero Ws; I'm picking one up in the AM (Edit: Page 238 of this thread has "dear god don't use the W", so I'll wait or wrangle a 3 B). You seem to have a modified extruder; can I ask what you've done? I enjoy the Select V2 hugely but all I've installed is a Trigorilla mosfet. Though I just picked up two used lack tables, have printed some Z brace mods, about to do it up. Would love any tips. The FB usergroup for Wanhao i3 clones pretty much just says use glass and aquanet; I don't want to spray glue everywhere. Clipping a PEI board to it and gluestick, it seems to be? My glass bed didn't work out so great, between being warped and the binder clip fastening method clipping my fan duct on larger prints. PEI seems to be the way to go. I also have the microswiss hot end on mine which was a definite improvement over the stock as far as consistency of the extrusion and actually being able to print the higher temp PETG. I'd skip the Pi Zero entirely tbh. after buying it and a usb ethernet adaptor, you're already most of the way to the Pi 3 which runs octoprint like a dream and already has the wired ethernet.
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Sep 19, 2017 08:55
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| # ? May 17, 2024 06:42 |
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Craigslist has a Maker Farm Prusa 10" i3v 3D Printer for $315 says he added a 1.75 extruder and a fully heated bed, seems like a good deal but from what I can tell the thing is a older think it's worth picking up over a new Maker Select v2?
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Sep 19, 2017 16:30
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