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I glued two boards together the other day to make a wider board. I just might make my first mortise and tenon tonight.
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Sep 20, 2017 07:24
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"Woodworking Megathread: I glued two boards together"
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Sep 20, 2017 15:42
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Hey, man. I hand planed the gluing surfaces, too. I didn't get around to anything else today, though. 
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Sep 20, 2017 15:51
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Hey, man. I hand planed the gluing surfaces, too. I didn't get around to anything else today, though.  Keep going.
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Sep 20, 2017 16:33
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Hey, man. I hand planed the gluing surfaces, too. I didn't get around to anything else today, though. If you and it didn't come unglued, that's a win
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Sep 20, 2017 16:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:If you and it didn't come unglued, that's a win I usually strive to avoid gluing myself to the workpiece, but to each their own.
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Sep 20, 2017 16:54
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Chalkboard for the kids, made from ash, this was (party) a hand tool project, chopping mortises by hand in ash was a PITA. 
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Sep 20, 2017 18:12
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Hey, man. I hand planed the gluing surfaces, too. I didn't get around to anything else today, though. Hey, it's more than I've done in awhile.
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Sep 20, 2017 18:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:Chalkboard for the kids, made from ash, this was (party) a hand tool project, chopping mortises by hand in ash was a PITA. You fucker. Also, what'd you do for the actual chalkboard part of it?
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Sep 20, 2017 19:02
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His Divine Shadow posted:Chalkboard for the kids, made from ash, this was (party) a hand tool project, chopping mortises by hand in ash was a PITA. Nice work, can't wait to start making things for our first, arriving in January. Right now I'm busy replacing all the trim in her nursery.
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Sep 20, 2017 20:37
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Today I am building a desk. The wood is all pine 1x4s, five 4ft boards and two 6ft board, the 4' were $1 and the 6' was $2 so about $9 for lumber costs. The top is a scrap of 1/2" birch plywood, I simply cant remember how much it cost. I first cut the 6ft boards into 30" legs, then decided I wanted square legs so I ripped the boards down to to 1.5", I then realized I could easily recess the horizontal boards by cutting notches into half the leg on my band saw. I'm not certain what this kind of joint would be called, kinda functions like a mortise or a lap joint.  Overall I think it will look decent once it's all put together, I still have to enlarge the joint on the leg on the top right of this image. I was testing the cuts to fit prior to glueing with a scrap of 1x4, however I failed to realize this particular scrap just happend to be about 1/16" undersized from all the the other 1x4s. I also assembled the support for the desktop. As for the corners. . .  Some of them are not too bad.   But this one is playing fast and loose with the term miter joint. I think this was caused by me trying to hold the piece against the fence on my miter saw and accidentally tilting the top of edge of the piece slightly, I double checked to make sure the blade was square afterwards and it was. I didn't realize the issue until after I glued the first 3 corners together and realized the last two ends were not going to touch unless I used a bit of force to bend the ends together to "meet". The good thing is this will be well hidden, I'm still a little ashamed of this corner.
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Sep 20, 2017 22:35
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Slugworth posted:"Woodworking Megathread: I glued two boards together" Did somebody say panel glue-ups???? 
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Sep 21, 2017 01:19
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https://youtu.be/MyROaNXAiVQ That sure is some segmented turning.
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Sep 21, 2017 01:30
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Speaking of babies, is there a particular type of sealer that is better than another in terms of baby safety? What about stains? Anyone have any low or "no" VOC stain recommendations? I know that theoretically if something if fully sealed it should not pose much of a hazard, but what about when babies start to explore things with their growing teeth and manage to bite off pieces of the crib? How do companies safely stain and seal these baby cribs in a way that won't poison them if they bite some of it off?
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Sep 21, 2017 01:49
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 Still need to make more holder things but this is miles better than my previous organizational method which was "I dunno wherever there's space for it". Also it now feels a more "shop" like and a little less "this is my unfinished basement".
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Sep 21, 2017 01:54
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TheBananaKing posted:Speaking of babies, is there a particular type of sealer that is better than another in terms of baby safety? What about stains? Anyone have any low or "no" VOC stain recommendations? I'm not sure what the commercial toy solution is, but food-safe varnish does exist (it's what people put on fruit to keep it looking shiny). For my own research I found that Shellac seems to be in a similar boat as far as being extremely non-toxic (ONCE CURED) and with minimal nastyness from any solvent residuals. Not sure about stains, but I played around with using food coloring thinned with isopropyl alcohol for some blocks and I was really thrilled with the color quality after two good coats. You'd 100% need to seal it (thus the shellac) otherwise the dye would bleed if they put it in their mouth, but with a protective clear coat it looks and wears fantastic..
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Sep 21, 2017 03:11
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There are a fair number of finishes that are advertised as "non-toxic when cured". You can also use pure tung oil -- just be careful about what you buy, because there are "tung oil finishes" that are really just ordinary finishes with some tung oil added to them.
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Sep 21, 2017 03:41
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Osmo hardwax oil is food safe, very often recommended here in finland/sweden, think it's available in america and the UK too.Tres Burritos posted:You fucker. Just a piece of plywood I painted with chalkboard paint, 10 euros for a small can was more than enough.
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Sep 21, 2017 04:45
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His Divine Shadow posted:Chalkboard for the kids, made from ash, this was (party) a hand tool project, chopping mortises by hand in ash was a PITA. That's awesome. So is that mini ruobu bench, your kids will never wear out that bench no matter what they do on it.
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Sep 21, 2017 13:32
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Anyone ever work with a shop to have a custom router bit made? I have a kind of screwy project idea which would be made a lot easier with by a custom t-slot cutter. I could physically mail a shop the thing that needs to fit the slot, and I'm not opposed to spending $100 if I get a tool that works well. Edit: nevermind, I think I can get something close enough from msc. armorer fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Sep 21, 2017 |
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Sep 21, 2017 16:47
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I've gone down that rabbit hole with drill bits. Ultimate ending was a shop whose entire advertising platform was "we can make anything" telling me "we can't make that" after receiving my drawing. Good luck.
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Sep 21, 2017 21:16
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Javid posted:I've gone down that rabbit hole with drill bits. Ultimate ending was a shop whose entire advertising platform was "we can make anything" telling me "we can't make that" after receiving my drawing. Good luck. I, on the other hand, had a local sharpening/milling shop create several custom shaper cutters for me.
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Sep 21, 2017 23:38
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Gonna crosspost my question from AI because odds are there are insights to be had here as well: I'm trying to build a cargo rack to go into the pockets? of a truck bed at work. I've built two already and not been thrilled with how sturdy they were(n't) so it's time to seek out more experienced minds. I don't have any good photos of the rack I made but this is what I'm dealing with:  8' bed with 3 pockets on each side that will hold a piece of 2x2 lumber; each pair of them has a 7' 2x4 across it, and there is bracing along the length of the bed between the 2x2s. 45 degree bracing on the inside isn't possible because it's crammed full of other poo poo - we make and deliver custom furniture, so the head and footboards of beds go on the rack and the side rails, night stands, chairs, drawers, whatever else go under it in the truck bed. My least favorite part is that the dude I work for just threads eye screws into the ends of the 2x4s and then straps down 800 lbs of bed frame on that. More than one has come out on us and it's not pleasant. I REALLY want the next version to have eye bolts that go through a solid thickness of wood so they don't go anywhere. The plan is to have a custom steel one made ~eventually~ but in the meanwhile I want to build a wood one that's as indestructible as possible so we can really wrench down on the ratchet straps and not worry about it popping off. I figure this is probably a solved problem and I'm just having trouble finding info via google (lots of racks for bikes and kayaks, little for big heavy furniture)
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Sep 23, 2017 07:16
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Javid posted:Gonna crosspost my question from AI because odds are there are insights to be had here as well: 2"×2" just doesn't seem like a lot of thickness for a heavy duty wood structure. It'd be fine for tubular steel, but I feel like you start running into fundamental material limitations with 2"×2" posts. If it were me, I would lap joint a 2×4 across the tops with a triangular bracing in the corners. Screwing eye bolts into the end grain of the 2×4 is going to be a recipe for failure, but going into the 2×2 post should be better.
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Sep 23, 2017 13:22
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Primitive Technologies guy just carved mortise and tenon joints out of a log with a stone chisel and a club.    And I have trouble with "real" tools in my garage.
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Sep 23, 2017 19:17
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Kruxy posted:Primitive Technologies guy just carved mortise and tenon joints out of a log with a stone chisel and a club. Ha! Had this exact same thought while I was watching the video. "How the gently caress did that go together."
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Sep 23, 2017 19:20
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Hubis posted:2"×2" just doesn't seem like a lot of thickness for a heavy duty wood structure. It'd be fine for tubular steel, but I feel like you start running into fundamental material limitations with 2"×2" posts. I'm not thrilled about the little chicken legs it has to have either, but that's the size of the holes available. Can you clarify what you mean by lap jointing it? I'm having trouble visualizing. The current draft of my plan is to run two 2x4s lengthwise along the sides, use like 6" x 1/4" lag screws down into the legs, then move the cross 2x4 pieces slightly off the posts and carriage bolt them through the lengthwise 2x4s. I can angle brace the lengthwise pieces which hopefully helps enough. Everything is decking screws now which isn't great at all. For the strap points I'm thinking eye bolts through the ends of the 2x4s with big rear end fender washers will probably break the 2x4 in the middle before they pull out of the wood. Our beds are wider than the truck bed so lateral pieces are required to support them. Other people have suggested drilling through the rim of the truck bed and carriage bolting boards down as a base which would be stronger but also probably not fly with the owner of the vehicle. Oh yeah, and everything is gonna be PT this time because it gets rained on, a lot. Javid fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 19:39
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Unfortunately I don't have any in-progress photos, but I made a desk! First piece of furniture in almost 10 years. I used old futon slats that were left by a dumpster and squared them out, and a scrap piece of birch ply from a separate project for the top. It's at bar stool height.  Utilized mostly pocket screws, next time I will try mortise and tenon. Was my first time using veneer, pretty stoked with the outcome. After a poo poo ton of sanding I went with chalked charcoal on the frame & legs and two coats of early american stain. 3 coats of satin poly.  I built it to fit in this space exactly. I " may or may not " have moved the baseboard heater and cut leg sized slats out of the trim to have it fit snug.
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Sep 24, 2017 00:41
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Javid posted:I'm not thrilled about the little chicken legs it has to have either, but that's the size of the holes available. Can you clarify what you mean by lap jointing it? I'm having trouble visualizing. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint What i really meant is a half-lap. If you glue it and secure it with two decking screws that would help fight racking a bit more (the glue will lock down the joint from any wiggling). Ideally a bridle joint would be even better, but again 2x2 doesn't give you enough material to work with while still preserving strength.
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Sep 24, 2017 01:54
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mallard malarky posted:Unfortunately I don't have any in-progress photos, but I made a desk! First piece of furniture in almost 10 years. I like it!
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Sep 24, 2017 02:15
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Is this the bandsaw folks typically suggest in the thread if you can find one? This one is on our local Craigslist paired with a Jet dust collector for $400. I don't care about the dust collector, and the bandsaw may need some work, but it looks pretty legit. 
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Sep 25, 2017 20:39
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Yep, that's the one, and if it also includes a 1hp+ dust collector then it's a steal.
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Sep 25, 2017 21:05
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Falco posted:Is this the bandsaw folks typically suggest in the thread if you can find one? This one is on our local Craigslist paired with a Jet dust collector for $400. I don't care about the dust collector, and the bandsaw may need some work, but it looks pretty legit.  I have that same bandsaw. It's a good old horse, once I re-tired it. haha, no seriously.edit- the blade guard on the left attached to the main shaft is made of wood, right?
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Sep 25, 2017 21:09
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GEMorris posted:Yep, that's the one, and if it also includes a 1hp+ dust collector then it's a steal. The ad says 1 1/2 hp Jet dust collector. That's about all of the info I have. Mr. Mambold posted:
I have no idea. The photo in the post is the only info I have right now. The seller has responded once, but super slowly.
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Sep 25, 2017 22:01
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Go get it, as long as they both turn on, the work needed to get the bandsaw into shape will be worth it, and the dust collector will be all you need for a garage sized shop.
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Sep 25, 2017 22:03
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That's a nice saw and it's even got a riser block on it already.
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Sep 26, 2017 00:10
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This cedar is taking a while to mortis with just my strength/bodyweight. 
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Sep 26, 2017 03:58
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The red plastic pads on my bessy clamps are leaving round pink stains on the wood where they applied pressure. With a little work it will sand out, but it's annoying. Any ideas why this is happening? Anyone else have this issue? I thought plastic was basically colorfast.
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Sep 26, 2017 04:16
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Kruxy posted:The red plastic pads on my bessy clamps are leaving round pink stains on the wood where they applied pressure. With a little work it will sand out, but it's annoying. Probably got some solvent or even glue on them and it's causing transfer. It's why I always use some scrap wood for cauls even if I shouldn't technically need them.
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Sep 26, 2017 17:08
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Mr. Mambold posted:
For some reason I'm feeling dense today, did you actually retire it? And yup, it most definitely had the wood blade guard near the riser block. That part seemed super janky, but the rest seemed in pretty good shape. GEMorris posted:Go get it, as long as they both turn on, the work needed to get the bandsaw into shape will be worth it, and the dust collector will be all you need for a garage sized shop. I went and took a look at it today. It has an old Dayton 1.5hp motor that is currently wired for 220v. I don't currently have 220, so I have to decide if I should rewire the motor, or run a 220 drop in the garage. It shouldn't be too hard since none of the walls/ceiling are finished between the electrical panel and the wall where the saw will go. I don't have room for the dust collector, as nice as it would be, so I told the guy I could only take the saw. After sitting in silence for a bit, he said he would sell the saw for $200, which I gladly handed over the cash. The tires looked pretty dry and cracked, so hopefully I can find some replacements, and it could use a little cleaning up. There were 4 blades, but they were all fairly rusty, so unless told otherwise, they're probably trash. But overall the thing looked like it was in great shape and well taken care of. The table tilted fine, all adjustments seemed super smooth. And it turns out it was primarily used to make custom recurve bows this guys father-in-law.
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Sep 26, 2017 20:36
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